Photo by David Classen/iStockPhoto.com

While investigating a 5,600-year-old village site in Kazakhstan, archaeologists determined that its Copper Age inhabitants were among the first cultures to tame horses. The evidence? The buried remnants of corral posts. Clearly, fences have been crucial to our shared relationship all along.

Unlike ancient horsemen who were limited to sticks and stones to enclose their horses, we benefit from a vast variety of traditional and modern materials from which to choose. Unfortunately, despite over 5,000 years of development, there’s still no ideal fence for every horsekeeping purpose. Each fence choice involves balancing safety concerns with aesthetics, cost, and upkeep.

Chances are you’ll employ a variety of materials and fence designs on your property for paddocks, arenas, and pasture fences—or even mix fence materials for a single enclosure. Choosing carefully will help maximize the safety, value, appeal, and utility of your fences. Before looking at the broad range of choices, let’s discuss safe fencing construction.

Safety
America’s West was tamed by blazing guns and barbed wire. Both remain murderous when used improperly. While barbed wire is relatively safe for huge pastures holding thick-skinned, placid cattle, the use of barbed wire for horse properties has caused untold tragedies. If you have any on your horse acreage, your first fencing priority is to remove it.

Building codes may ultimately determine fencing requirements for your land, but some general rules of thumb apply nearly everywhere. Field fences should be 54 to 60 inches above ground level. Err on the side of caution and go with a 5-feet minimum height where fences abut highways or anywhere that an escaped horse can flee your premises. Six feet is the safe minimum height for stall runs and paddocks.

At bottom, an opening of 8 to 12 inches will keep feet and legs from getting trapped, and also prevent foals from rolling under the fence. Fence openings should be either large enough that a hoof, leg, or even the head can’t become trapped, or very small (no more than 3 inches by 3 inches) to prevent a hoof from penetrating. To maintain tension, most wire fences, both fabric and high-tensile smooth wire, require triangular-shaped bracing at the corners and at intervals of about 1/8 mile. The acute angles formed by brace wires represent entrapment hazards if the horse can reach them; good design (such as boards used in corners to block access) can prevent injury, even death.

Visibility, especially with wire fencing, is too often overlooked. While a white plank fence of wood or PVC is easily seen by horses, wires can be almost invisible when a horse panics and runs—the time when the worth of a fence is truly tested. Improve visibility to wire fences by adding a top rail of wood; PVC; or durable white vinyl fence ribbon, either standard or electrified. This addition not only makes a wire fence more visible, it also deters horses from reaching over the fence to graze.

Regardless of fence material and design, one of your goals should be to present a smooth side to the horses. Do-it-yourselfers occasionally make the mistake of mounting boards on the outside of fence posts, which makes them easy for horses to knock loose. Further, the exposed posts can injure a horse that runs down the fence line. With cross-pasture fencing, you may not be able to avoid this exposure; in such cases, using an electric fence wire to create a psychological as well as a physical barrier offers a safe solution.

Corners also present problems, especially if you plan to pasture horses that don’t get along well. Any corner can create an entrapment situation where one horse is bullied. The problem is especially bad when the corner angle is acute (90 degrees or less). Some solutions include corners that curve. This requires placing wire fence barriers on the outside of the posts, but this is less of a problem in corners than it is along straight runs. Another solution is to affix planks across corners to block access.

Wood posts, field fence, a highly visible electric tape, and a twisted smooth-wire top line makes this an exceptionally safe fence.

Posts
The strength and integrity of a fence come from good fence posts, properly installed. Wire fences require tension, which means that corner assemblies and gate assemblies need to be braced against the pulling forces. Generally, when using wood posts, it’s best to use concrete to set corner assemblies and gate posts. Metal T-posts benefit from having sturdy wood corner and gate assemblies as well. These are an absolute requirement for high-tensile wire.

Wood is traditional and commonly used for fence posts. Whether you’re making a plank fence or just using wood posts, local availability and custom may determine your choices in woods. For instance, while hardwood fence materials tend to be readily available in the East, Southeast, and parts of the Midwest, softwoods predominate in the West. To deter decomposition, common softwoods that are resistant to rot and insect infestation include cedar, redwood, and cypress. Unfortunately, these woods are very expensive.

For this reason, horsemen often choose pressure-treated lumber (usually pinewood or fir); such lumber costs 1/3 to 1/5 of the above-mentioned varieties. With pressure treated lumber (or “PTL”), the manufacturer impregnates the wood with chemicals that resist rot, fungi, and insects. Look for treated lumber posts that are certified for in-ground use. Paint won’t bond to the material, so PTL fences are invariably natural.

You’ve taken stock of your barn, and have found signs of wear and tear. Or, you finally have that slice of horse heaven and are ready to build for the first time.

Either way, this article can help. We’ll give you six barn-design basics, plus tips on how to select a builder.

Barn Building 101
Today’s barn options are many, from a pole barn with dirt floors to an insulated, padded horse heaven. You can build your own barn, buy a prefabricated model, or hire a company to custom-build your barn for you.

Typically, building your own is the least expensive choice (if you know what you’re doing), a custom barn is your costliest choice, and a prefab barn lies in the middle of the cost scale.

Which type of barn is right for you? Major considerations include type/materials, size, layout/design, cost, and add-ons. Here’s a quick look at each one.

• Type/materials. Barn type and materials go hand in hand. Consider a wood barn if you live in an area with a low fire risk, and would like to build the barn yourself or have one custom built. Note that wood — while cost-effective for small barns — costs more and is more difficult to maintain than steel models. Prefabricated barns are made from steel, which is strong, reasonably priced, a breeze to keep up, and great for areas with high fire risk. Steel barns do, however, lack the character and warmth of a wood barn.

• Layout. Next, decide how many and what size stalls you need (the bigger the stall, the happier your horse will be), how much feed and hay storage you need, and the size you’d like your tack room to be (if any). Depending on your budget, you might want a wash rack/vet-care area, storage for wheelbarrows and other stable supplies, and even a bathroom or an office.

Layout and design is the fun part of barn building, but if your “wants” exceed your budget, it’s easy to get frustrated. Stable Wise can translate your needs into barn plans and provide you with blueprints. It also offers ready-made barn plans and barn-building information. Homestead Design, Inc., also offers a wide selection of ready-made barn plans.

• Cost. What you’ll pay for your barn varies widely, depending on the type of construction you use. A no-frills pole barn with a metal shell is around $4 per square foot. Custom barns can run you into six figures. Whatever you choose, be sure to factor in materials, insulation, excavation, grading, concrete foundation, water lines, stalls (including mats and fittings), and add-ons.

Also consider location. If you build on an uneven surface, an excavator will charge more than if you build on a flat one. If you’re tapping into a preexisting well, be sure that move will meet code in your area. Consider, too, how far you’ll need to lay your water pipes.

• Add-ons. These include such construction features as overhangs, eaves, gutters, flooring, ceilings, artificial light, doors, windows, and skylights. Give yourself plenty of electrical outlets for clippers, tank heaters, etc. Also, decide if you’d like to budget for an automatic watering system, and/or fly system.

• Ventilation. Good ventilation is critical to your horse’s health and well-being. Enclosed barns harbor ammonia fumes (from urine), hay dust, and other debris. Constant exposure to such irritants can put your horse at risk for chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (heaves). To minimize this risk, place your barn perpendicular to prevailing breezes, install a high ceiling, and add plenty of windows. Carve inlets near the ground to draw air in, and place vents and windows up high to let the air out. If your budget can handle it, install a cupola with an air turbine on the roof.

• Natural light. The more light you let into your barn, the better. The sun’s ultraviolet rays help kill harmful bacteria, viruses, and larvae of internal parasites. Again, this means plenty of windows. Another secret to good lighting is a raised center aisle (RCA) design, in which the roof is split into three parts. Two sides slope down to each eave, and a raised portion runs along the roof line. By placing windows in this raised portion, you can increase light and ventilation.

For the one-horse owner, MDBarnmaster offers this affordable model, with one 12-by-12-foot stall, an 8-foot tack room, a rear paddock, and a 10-foot overhang.

Builder-Selection Tips
Unless you’re doing all the work yourself, the next step is to select a builder. You can check out a nationwide builder. Or, you may prefer to find a regional builder working in a multi-state region. To find a regional builder, pick up a local agriculture publication, or go to a local horse expo, show, or other horse event.

You can also talk to a local builder. To find one, talk to other horse owners in your area, check tack/feed stores, hardware stores, and your phone book.

If you drive past a barn you like, ask the owner who built it. (Note: If you go with a regional or local builder, check out other barns the company has built, and ask for references.)

You might find that your barn builder also builds stalls, can finish your tack room, and/or lay a foundation. This may be more cost-effective than subcontracting all the work needed.

Make sure you feel comfortable working with the representative from the company you’ve chosen. Invariably, miscommunications occur, you’ll change your mind, or you’ll have new ideas for your barn, so choose someone you feel will work with you.

During construction, keep a close eye on the progress, but be flexible. For instance, if the salesman who sold you the barn hasn’t visited your premises, the builder may need to make some changes.

Finally, look for a company that will guarantee its work, and is established. A new company may give you a low bid, but might not be around later. If things start to go wrong, you’ll be out of luck.

National Barn Builders

ACE Buildings

American Steel Buildings

Ameri Stall

Castlebrook Barns

Cleary Building

Heritage Building Systems

Lester Buildings

MDBarnmaster

Morton Buildings, Inc.

Universal Steel Structures

Walters Buildings

Weldy Enterprises

Wick Buildings

When the spring weather finally comes, you may be anxious to quickly stow the winter gear so that you can get on with enjoying the sunshine with your horses. But if you take the time to clean your turnout blankets thoroughly and store them away carefully, you’ll extend their useful life--and you’ll thank yourself when it’s time to get them back out this fall. Follow these steps to keep stored blankets in good shape.

1. Wash them well. A quick spray-down with the hose may be enough to clean lightly soiled blankets, but for the best results, take them to a laundromat. (Before you go, be sure to ask whether they will allow horse items in their machines.) Run the rinse cycle twice to ensure no detergent residue is left behind.

2. Dry thoroughly. Hang the blankets in the sun until they are completely dry; this could take a day or more for heavier items. Storing them while they’re still damp can lead to mold.

3. Repair or replace, as needed. Examine all the fabric, stitching and hardware for loose connections, wear and holes. Have any repairs done now; waiting until the fall can leave you short of time as the cold weather approaches. Spring is also a good time to buy replacement blankets, if needed. You may catch a good sale, and you won’t have to rush to find one later.

4. Store them securely. Fold the blankets neatly and place them inside large plastic bags, then stack them in a dry place. To provide even more security against nesting rodents, store your blankets in clean trash cans or storage bins with lockable lids.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

Did you know that there are a great many wonderful ways that plants and animals can actually work for you on your horse property?

Native plants and animals can serve both utilitarian and delightful aesthetic functions on your horse property — all while saving you time and money, and reducing your impact on the environment.

Creating a natural habitat might increase your property value, too. The United States Fish & Wildlife Service Office of Migratory Bird Management reports that homes in neighborhoods with large trees for birds are worth more than similar homes in neighborhoods without trees.

Native plants are the ones that grow in your area naturally. They generally cost less to buy than nonnative landscaping plants and are equally attractive.

Native plants are better adapted to local climate and soil conditions than exotics, and are more insect- and disease-resistant, than nonnative ones, so you’ll be less likely to need to help them along with pesticides, fertilizers, and even extra watering after they’re established.

Following are eight reasons to “go native.”

Minimize mud. Native plants and trees can help dry up an annoying wet area or be the first line of defense in intercepting runoff from the hillside behind your property. A mature Douglas fir can use from 125 to 150 gallons a day. Other types of water-loving plants include willow, dogwood, cottonwood, aspen, and cedar. Vegetated swales channel away surface water. And, if placed down slope from your horse’s paddock, can pick up excess water and nutrient runoff. Check with your local extension agent or conservation district for specific recommendations on plants suitable for your area and soils.

Bust the dust. Use native plants to help cut down on blowing dust from your arena polluting your neighbor’s property. Generally, a buffer of at least 20 feet deep is recommended. It should include evergreens, deciduous trees, and shrubs. A row of evergreens makes a nice privacy screen between you and your neighbor.

Provide timely sun and shade. Well-placed deciduous trees and shrubs around your barn and paddocks can provide cooling shade in the summer, while the bare branches in the winter allow the warming rays from the sun to reach through to your horses.

Control erosion. Trees and shrubs hold valuable topsoil in place, keeping it from getting washed away by rain or blown away by wind, which can potentially cause a surface- or ground-water problem. If you’re raising pasture grass, protecting valuable topsoil is paramount. Plants need soil and nutrients to be healthy, so put those native plants to work as a filter strip to catch nutrients and hold topsoil in place.

Control runoff. Native plants are also useful around streams, ponds, wetlands, and other water bodies. Trees and undergrowth are nature’s system for filtering runoff contaminants, such as nutrients from manure and sediment from mud.

Feed fish. Vegetation supplies food and shelter for fish and other aquatic life. The overhead canopy trees keep water cool. Cool water is able to carry more oxygen than warm water, which benefits fish.

Encourage insect-eating swallows to move onto your horse property to reduce the flying-insect population.

Photo by Alan Blickle

Banish bugs. One swallow consumes thousands of insects per day. During the spring and summer, violet green, cliff, and barn swallows can be seen and heard diving, darting, and chirping on

horse properties throughout much of the United States. Other types of insect-eating birds include other types of swallows, bluebirds, and purple martins.

Lure insect-eating birds to your property by providing a habitat for them. Help them build their nests by putting out tufts of horse and dog hair. Also, build or buy nesting boxes specific to the type of swallows in your area.

Encourage bats to take up residence. One bat can eat hundreds of mosquitoes in an hour. Create a friendly bat habitat by placing bat houses by early April. Place a bat house on a barn, pole, tree, and/or the side of a house, ideally within a half-mile of a stream, lake, or wetland. Note that it can take up to two years for a bat colony to find your house.

Control rodents. Encourage larger birds, such as owls, hawks, and falcons, which prey on problem rodents, to be a part of your habitat. Protect large trees and snags that provide housing for these predators. Some of these birds will also do well in nest boxes.

Plant trees outside of confinement areas and pastures to keep trees away from teeth and hooves. Trees inside these areas should be protected to the end of their “drip zone,” or the tips of their branches. To protect your trees, use fencing and physical barriers, such as large rocks and logs.

Whether or not you used your trailer all winter, it’s time to tune up your trailer for this season’s trail-riding adventures. A well-maintained trailer will be safer for both you and your horse than one in shoddy shape. Here’s a point-by-point rundown.

Note: Unless you’re a truck/trailer-maintenance expert, ask a reputable trailer dealership or an experienced trailer-maintenance person to perform most of these tasks for you. With this information in hand, provide this person guidance, and check the trailer over when you pick it up.

Check all tires. Check all trailer tires and spares; they should have good tread (at least one-quarter inch) and filled with air to the tire manufacturer’s recommendation; low tire pressure is a major cause of blowouts. They should also be free of dry rot and weak spots.

Invest in spares. You should have at least one, preferably two, spare tires for your trailer, according to USRider Equestrian Motor Plan (www.usrider.org, a sister company of The Trail Rider and EquiSearch.com). One blowout can damage other tires. And if your tires are heavy duty, they might be difficult to replace on the road.

Rotate your tires. Tire rotation will even out the tread wear. While the tires are off to be rotated, lubricate the wheel bearings. Also, make sure the axle ends have minimal signs of wear so that you don’t lose a tire and wheel.

Check the brakes. The brake pads/shoes might need to be replaced. Turn (machined on a lathe) the drums/rotors at least every 10,000 miles; more often if they stick, make unusual noises, or aren’t properly braking your trailer.

Tighten the lug nuts. When replacing the tires, tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s suggested level manually so that you can loosen them in an emergency with a lug wrench on the side of the road.  Make sure they aren’t rusted or stripped.

Enhance your tire kit. Add a proper-size lug wrench, a two- foot extension pipe, chocks, a proper drive-on jack, and some spray lubricant to your tire kit.

Remove the mats. Wrestle the mats out of the trailer. For mat-managing help, use an EZ-Grip Mat Mover (available from State Line Tack, www.statelinetack.com). Keep in mind that mats are usually cut to fit and have to go back in the same order as they come out.

Clean the mats. Scrape, sweep, and hose out the dust, sweat, and urine from the trailer mats. You can use any standard cleaning product to get down to a cleaned surface, then use a pH stabilizing product to finish the job. Some horsepeople put dry baking soda under the mats to minimize odors and the acidic effect of urine.

Check the floorboards. While the mats are out, make sure the floorboards are secured with screws, not just sitting on the metal channel. Use a screwdriver to check for weak places or rot in wood; those boards must be replaced. It’s best to replace wooden floors every 10 to 15 years (depending on use, climate, and storage conditions) with treated wood. Or use Rumber (www.rumber.com/boards/horselivestocktrailer.html) for lifetime replacement. Even metal floors and frames can rust or corrode, so check the frame where the boards are attached to ensure there are no pinholes or weak spots that could fail under travel conditions.

Lubricate the metal. With spray lubricant, lubricate every metal part in the trailer, such as latches, hinges, pins, etc. This minimizes rust development and makes it easier for you to remove these in an emergency. Lubrication also minimizes the noise your horse is exposed

to in the trailer. For further noise reduction, tape down anything that hangs, bumps, jiggles, or swings.

Replace the mats. Now you can replace the trailer mats.

Check the lights. Make sure all the trailer lights work (parking, running, flashers, brake, and turn signals).

Check all trailer tires and spares. Low tire pressure is a major cause of blowouts. Photo by Heidi Melocco

Check for loose wires that need to be tied up inside and under the trailer, or any exposed or rubbed wires that might need a coat of electric tape or replacement. Brake and light problems are usually traced to wiring that’s shorting out somewhere under the trailer.

Apply reflective tape. Purchase reflective tape at the hardware store, and place it all over your trailer’s back and side panels. The little red-and-white stripe isn’t enough to signal someone that you’re stopped on the road in a rainstorm! Also apply the tape to the inside of the back doors and ramp. That way, if you have to open the doors, you can still be seen.  Since brakes and lights are notorious for failing, this is your backup plan.

Check the emergency-brake-controller battery. It’s best to have a system that bleeds power to the battery to charge it at all times. If you don’t have this type of system, take the battery to an auto-parts center, and have them check it for power. This battery is crucial! If your towing vehicle and trailer separate, it initiates the brakes to stop your trailer. Also, make sure the plastic switch is in good condition and that the cable is connected to your towing vehicle’s frame.

Check the break controller. Verify that your brake controller is working. To do so, check the manufacturer’s instructions. They’ll usually ask you to drive at a slow speed towing your empty trailer, then engage only the trailer brakes. That way, you can adjust the brakes to a setting that complements the action of your towing vehicle. When you load your horses, you’ll need to adjust the setting to match the load.

Level your trailer. Is the trailer level? If your hitch is set too high or too low, you’ll have difficulty controlling your trailer. Plus, your horse will be standing at an angle, which will stress his joints.

Replenish emergency supplies. Does your thermometer work? Can you locate your stethoscope? Is your EpiPen still good? Replenish all your emergency supplies, and add extra tack and tack-repair materials for those unexpected moments when something breaks.

How are horses like small children? With both, you must be on guard constantly against things that might hurt them. To help you keep your horses safe in their home, here’s a handy list of hazards to banish from your barn and the surrounding area.

Skimpy Allowances. Tight spaces invite trouble. Aisles and doorways should be at least eight feet wide to avoid crowding/bumping. Ceilings should be high enough to avoid contact with a rearing horse’s head ideally nine feet or more. stalls should be at least 12 feet x 12 feet to minimize the risk of a horse’s becoming cast.

Unsafe footing. Your barn’s floor must provide satisfactory traction, especially if your horses wear shoes. Texturized concrete is a safe, inexpensive nonslip option for a barn aisle. Replace or repair loose or torn stall mats.

Sharp Edges, Points. Loose or splintered boards, protruding nails or wire, damaged hinges/latches, torn buckets or feed tubs, or anything else that can lacerate or puncture flesh presents a serious danger. Make repairs or replacements in a timely fashion.

Unsafe Partitions. Any wall or divider that separates two horses must be strong and smooth, with no place for flailing hooves to become caught or hung up.

Clutter, Garbage. Barn aisles, doorways, and commonly traveled pathways around the barn should be clear of tripping hazards and obstructions. These include feed cans, trunks, saddle racks, wheelbarrows, chairs, shovels, brooms, and manure forks. Garbage should be neatly stowed in containers with lids. Detritus such as bits of plastic, wire, baling twine, and the like can cause colic or serve as the nidus for an enterolith; keep your stalls, aisles, and paddocks free of it.

Tangle Spots. Hooves can get caught in or trip over misplaced crosties, lead ropes, longe lines, wash hoses, electrical or extension cords, etc. Keep such items neatly contained/stored.

Binge Risks. Grain, concentrates, and treats that aren’t secured behind latched or locked doors invite raids that can lead to colic or laminitis. (Rodent-proof containers should be used to protect feedstuffs from contamination.)

Poisons. Toxic chemicals or other substances should never be stored where horses (or children) might be able to get to them. Plants toxic to horses should never be used as ornamental shrubbery around the barn or anywhere horses might contact them. (Check with your cooperative extension for local varieties to avoid.)

Electrical Shock. Light fixtures should be out of horses’ reach or encased in strong, metal mesh cages or, in the case of long fluorescent fixtures, plastic tubes. Electrical wiring and switches should be encased in metal, weatherproof boxes. Electrical outlets in wash-stall areas should be equipped with a ground fault circuit interrupter, and all water sources should be grounded.

Fire Prevention

Fire safety falls into its own hazard category. To make your barn as fire-safe as it can be:

• Allow no smoking in your barn, ever. Post signs and enforce them.
• Stock your barn with appropriate fire extinguishers, and know how to use them. (If you’re not sure, check with a local fire official.)
• If finances allow, consider installing a commercial sprinkling system or heat/smoke detectors, and treating your barn with a fire-retardant product. Avoid clutter, especially of flammable
  cialis online

  materials like paper, straw, shavings, and oily rags. Keep your barn neat.

• If possible, avoid storing hay in the same barn where horses are housed. If you must do so, make sure the hay is properly cured and not stacked too tightly; overly moist and/or crowded hay can cause spontaneous combustion. Don’t overuse extension cords; hire a licensed electrician if need be to add more wiring and electrical outlets.
• Keep your barn roof in good repair; water leaks into light fixtures or electrical outlets can cause shorts.
• Don’t store gasoline or diesel fuel in your barn. Store any other combustible liquids (such as oil-based cleaning supplies, alcohol, clipper grease, etc.) in a metal container with a lid.
• Develop and post a fire-escape plan, along with all relevant emergency numbers.

Suburbia is encroaching on your area’s horse properties and riding trails. Or, you’re ready to cede just a little barn-management responsibility to someone

else. Or, you’d simply like the sense of community found at a local stable or farm. Whatever the reason, you’re ready to board your horse.

Before you seal the deal, be sure to get a boarding contract for legal reasons, and in case of emergency. Get contract savvy by watching for the following provisions:

Release of liability. These days, many stables include a release of liability within their boarding contracts. Boarding stables do this to protect themselves for injuries or losses that may be caused by their negligence or liability. Because releases can be very powerful under the law in most states, what you sign today, when all seems well, might virtually destroy your legal recourse against the stable if things go bad tomorrow.

Realistically, the boarding stable might insist that you sign its release before you can become a boarder there. Negotiating it out of the contract is, very likely, not an option. If you’re convinced that the stable is a good place to board, you’ll probably feel much more comfortable signing the contract.

Emergencies. Should a veterinary emergency arise, you may not be reachable, even via cell phone. Therefore, insist upon a clause in the boarding contract that gives the stable some sort of direction in the event that you can’t be reached in an emergency.

Several options are possible. The one I most prefer, especially when I represent stables, is a complete authorization for the stable to arrange all veterinary care that it deems necessary.

If you have a policy of mortality insurance and major medical insurance on your horse, it’s in the stable’s best interest to know this. These insurance policies require you to give the company (at its designated 1-800 number for emergencies) immediate notice if the insured horse has become injured or ill.

I’ve personally represented insurance companies — and won — in cases where the company wasn’t given proper notice and properly denied the claim, paying nothing, when the horse died.

Who’s responsible for feed and bedding and how much? These are just the beginning of the questions that should be addressed in a good boarding contract.

Photo by Bestsy Lynch

Side charges. What if your horse is a “hard keeper” who requires extra rations of grain and hay just to stay fit? What if you want your horse pastured during the day in a private paddock instead of the stable’s group pasture? What if your horse breaks down the pasture fencing and chews through the wood in his stall?

Check the boarding contract to see if the stable will impose extra charges on you for these and other services, goods, and repairs. Many of the stables I represent will attach a list of side charges in advance. If the stable doesn’t have this list of fees, ask that the contract include specifics of side charges, if any.

Health requirements. You can make sure that the stable sets reasonable health requirements for horses at the stable, especially those newly arriving. For example, stables can require health certificates before a new horse can enter the facility. Most of my clients simply require the owner to promise that the horse is current on immunizations and deworming.

Red Flags
Watch out for contracts that virtually give the stable full ownership of your horse if you fall behind on payments, with no advance notice to you. The fact is, most states have laws addressing this situation, and these laws require the stable to comply with the most basic and fundamental principles — proper notice before depriving someone of his or her personal property. Those laws were designed to be fair.

Contracts that instantaneously give the stable your horse, without enough advance notice to the boarder and fair procedures for a sale, I believe, are trouble. They might also be illegal.

BIO
Julie I. Fershtman is an accomplished equine law practitioner whose practice crosses virtually all equine breeds and disciplines. She’s written more than 150 articles and is the author of two books, Equine Law & Horse Sense and MORE Equine Law & Horse Sense

Here are four stall-bedding materials that might be a good fit for your horse, as well as your barn-management and budget concerns.

Bedding #1: Wood Pellets

Wood Pellets

Photo by Susan Raymond, PhD

Description: Wood pellets are fine wood shavings compressed into pellet form.

Pros: Because the pellets are compressed, they rapidly expand to absorb urine. They also make it easy to sort out manure, minimizing bedding waste. With proper management and by wetting it down, pellets have minimal dust, so is a good choice for horses with respiratory problems.

Cons: By weight, wood pellets are more expensive than traditional bedding, but ease of cleaning cuts down labor. Less waste means less material to haul away or otherwise manage.

Available from: Equi-Litter, www.equi-litter.com.

Bedding #2: Peat Moss
Description: Peat moss is a genus of moss (sphagnum) that grows in peat bogs and mires.

Pros: Peat moss is readily available in lawn and garden centers. Horses with respiratory problems benefit from it, as its dust particles are large and can’t easily enter a horse’s airways.  Peat moss is also highly absorbent, so can help combat ammonia odor in barns.

Cons: Large dust particles can collect on window ledges, buckets, and other surfaces. Since the moss is dark, it can be hard to tell what needs to be cleaned and what doesn’t. The moss can leave a stain on haircoats.

Available from: Lawn and garden centers.

Bedding #3: Shredded Paper
Description: Shredded paper is made from recycled newspaper and other recycled paper products.

Pros: Shredded paper is highly absorbent and can eliminate ammonia odor. Using recycled materials is a “green” choice.

Cons: Shredded paper tends to cling to the bottoms of boots and hooves, then travel throughout your barn and surrounding areas. You must find paper that was stored properly, so there’s no mold. Any dye used on the paper must be vegetable-based. Also, the paper needs to be free of other substances, such as heavy metals (used in glossy paper), and glue (used in book binding).

Available from: Your own recycled/shredded paper bin; recycling centers; local trade shows/equine expos.

Bedding #4: Hemp

Hemp

Photo by Susan Raymond, PhD

Description: Hemp is a stalk plant harvested for several industries, including construction, gardening, and animal bedding. The inside of the stalk is processed for use as stall bedding.

Pros: Hemp is low in dust, so is ideal for horses with respiratory problems.

Cons: It’s illegal to grow hemp isn’t grown in the United States (as it’s related to marijuana), which means it must be imported from Canada, adding to the cost. However, it’s easier to manage than shavings and straw, so it’s use cuts down on waste and labor.

Available from: Stemergy, www.hempline.com/stemergy/.

Katie Navarra is an avid rider, and freelance book, magazine, and newspaper writer with more than 250 bylines to her credit.

Is your barn safe for your horse? Take a look at the following six barn hazards, then tour your barn. If you spot a hazard, fix it today!

Hazard #1: Sharp protrusions. If there’s anything sharp in your horse’s stall — such as nails, splinters, or sharp edges on a broken plastic manger — he’s likely to scrape, puncture, or lacerate himself. His eyes are particularly at risk. Action steps: Visually scan stall walls, then run your hands over all surfaces, including feeders, waterers, and feed buckets. Check the ceiling, too. Remove splinters, and replace any broken boards. If the sharp object is hard plastic, remove it, replace it, or wrap it in duct tape. If you find sharp nails, pull them out, or whack them in.

Hazard #2: Unsecured feed. Rodents and birds can contaminate feed with urine and feces, which can make your horse ill. Mice might chew on the insulation around any accessible wiring, which can cause a barn fire. And if your horse gets into the grain, he could colic, suffer laminitis, or both. Action steps: Keep pellets and grain inside heavy metal containers. Make sure the lids fit tightly. Look for locking lids. For maximum protection, keep feed in mouse-proof cans inside a horse-proof (closed and locked) feed room.

Hazard #3: Improper hay storage. Hay dust interferes with your horse’s breathing and can harm his respiratory system. Hay is also a major fire hazard. Action steps: Store hay away from your horse, preferably in a separate, well-ventilated building. Keep hay on pallets to keep it safe from ground moisture. Stack bales on their sides, and leave spaces between bales to promote air circulation, which helps keep the bales dry. If necessary, make a “floor” with pallets, stack the hay, and cover just the top two-thirds of the stack with tarps, so air will circulate.

Hazard #4: Electrical wiring and cords. An exposed electrical cord can electrocute your horse or cause a barn fire. Horses will chew anything. Action steps: Enclose your permanent wiring in PVC conduit. Use extension cords

Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

only when absolutely necessary, and then use only heavy-duty models designed for outdoors. Be very careful with fans and water heaters, and protect these cords with conduit. Avoid heat lamps, which can start a fire. Don’t overload your circuits.

Hazard #6: Cobwebs and dust. The cobwebs that accumulate in barns are dangerous because they’re flammable, and they trap dust, bits of hay/straw, and bedding particles. Action steps: Routinely dust and remove cobwebs. A long-handled feather duster is ideal for dusting light fixtures; a light broom is useful for stall grilles, walls, and corners. Pay special attention to light fixtures, outlet covers and switches, and panel boxes.

Jessica Jahiel, PhD, is an internationally recognized clinician and lecturer, and an award-winning author of books on horses, riding and training. Her e-mail newsletter is a popular worldwide resource.

You can haul your horse all year long, even in the dead of winter, as long as you do so safely. Here, I’ll first tell you how to ready your rig for winter hauling. Then I’ll go over how to help keep your equine friend comfortable when you haul him in winter conditions. Finally, I’ll give you six ways to ease trailer-loading in snow and ice.

(For my on-the-road hauling guidelines, see “Safe Travels,” The Trail Rider, January/February 2013).

Note: You may wish to sign up for USRider Equestrian Motor Plan, which covers both your towing vehicle and your trailer, and will help you find a safe place for your horse, in an emergency. (USRider is a sister company of The Trail Rider and EquiSearch.com.)

Ready Your Rig

Before you set out with your horse in tow, you need to ready your rig for winter conditions. Here’s how.

Apply reflective decals. Apply extra reflective decals on the back and sides of your trailer, so that other drivers can see your rig in poor conditions. One good source for trailer decals is Caution Horses Safety Products.

Invest in good tires. Invest in quality tires for your entire rig. Check tire pressure before every trip; comply with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Check all lights. Recruit an assistant to help you check all lights on your towing vehicle and trailer. Replace any nonfunctioning lights.

Carry chains. Keep quality chains handy if snow and ice are significant enough to use them. Check your state’s chain requirements. Generally, if you have to chain up the drive axle of your towing vehicle, you should have chains on the trailer as well.

Top off the fuel tank. And don’t let your fuel tank get below a half-tank. If you’ll be driving in remote areas, carry extra fuel.

Top off the windshield-wiper fluid. And make sure the windshield wipers are working. Place a long-handled windshield scraper in your vehicle.

Comply with local brake laws. Every state has its own laws related to trailer brakes. To find out the laws in your state, consult AAA’s website.

Turn off the Jake brake. Engine brakes are wonderful for towing vehicles — they do a fantastic job slowing the rig to minimize brake wear under dry conditions. But a diesel engine’s compression-release engine brake (also referred to by the brand name Jacob’s brake, or Jake brake) can lead to a jackknife if used in slick road conditions, since they slow your towing vehicle first.

Sync the brakes. Make sure the trailer brakes complement the brakes of your towing vehicle. When you’re on a steep downhill in slick conditions, you might need to slow the trailer with brakes greater than your vehicle’s brakes.

Consult the manufacturer’s instructions. Generally, brakes are best set on dry, flat ground at a slow speed and need to be adjusted for the load. Position the electronic brake so you can manually engage it via the thumb control.

Turn off cruise control. If you get into a slide, the precious second or two that it takes to turn off the cruise control may doom your chances of maintaining control.

Weight your towing vehicle. If you’ll be towing an empty trailer, note that it’ll jackknife more easily than a loaded one. For better control, place concrete blocks or bags of sand into the back of your truck to add weight over the rear axle.

Pack cold-weather gear. For the horses, pack extra hay and at least 10 gallons of water (nonfrozen). For you, carry a cell phone with charger, emergency blankets, jackets, high-energy snack foods, and a thermos of hot drink, in case your towing vehicle or trailer breaks down and you need to wait roadside for help.

In-Trailer Equine Comfort

Here’s how to help keep your horse comfortable while hauling him in the winter.

Invest in quality tires for your entire rig. Check tire pressure before every trip; comply with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Provide good-quality hay. Even in really cold weather, horses create more heat than you think they do. The best way to keep your horse warm in the trailer is to provide good-quality hay.

Watch over-blanketing. It’s easy to over-blanket your horse. Most trailers are poorly ventilated, so they tend to get very warm with body heat, even in below-freezing temperatures. A light sheet or blanket is sufficient for most horses.

Apply leg protection. Apply leg protection, such as polo wraps or shipping boots. In winter, it’s especially important to protect your horse’s precious lower legs from slips and kicks.

Increase ventilation. Humidity and condensation buildup from your horse’s breath can cause respiratory illness. Improve the indirect ventilation in your trailer to counteract this risk.

Avoid drafts. That said, make sure that there are no direct drafts hitting your horse, especially on his face and eyes. Freezing-cold temperatures with wind can result in damaged corneas from frostbite.

Monitor your horse. On the road, check your horse frequently. If there’s sweat under the blanket, he’s cooking inside. If he’s clipped and lacks natural insulation, carefully monitor him for sweat or shivering.

Trailer-Loading Tips

Here are six ways to ease trailer-loading in snow and ice.

Train your horse. Prior preparation and good training are important to make sure your horse is a good loader; if he rushes in or out, he can easily slip.

Wear good boots. Slipping, falling or breaking a limb is really a downer on your planned trip. Find good-quality boots that will keep your feet warm, protect your feet, and provide good traction.

Lay in supplies. Keep sand/shavings/salt and a broom/shovel in the trailer so that if you must load in icy conditions, you can minimize the chance of injury.

Find traction. Park so that the trailer’s ramp is positioned on the best traction you can find. Dirt is preferred, but snow is better than ice or asphalt.

Check the trailer stalls. Check the inside of the trailer. Frozen urine and manure are slippery. A fall inside the trailer can lead to serious injury and even death.

Create an inviting environment. Put fresh hay in the bags and a little grain in the manger. Open the doors and windows, so there’s plenty of light. The more inviting you make the trailer’s interior, the more likely your horse will feel confident enough to step in.