A well-maintained round pen can help reduce the risk of leg strains and other injuries. Photo © EQUUS

You may use your round pen only for short, supervised training sessions, but regular wear and tear can still take a toll on it. To make sure your round pen is safe and secure for your horse, inspect its footing and fencing periodically.

Working a horse in a regular track around the perimeter of the pen is going to create ruts over time. Dragging the surface regularly, as you would in a riding ring, will help maintain safe, level footing that protects your horse’s legs from strains and injury. If your horse slips frequently despite dragging, you might need to consider either installing or replenishing a footing material, such as sand or wood chips, to give him better traction.

Even if you intend to keep your horse under your control while working in the pen, the fence needs to be sturdy enough to withstand spooks and crashes. Regularly check for and repair loose posts or panels, and close off gaps that could entrap the leg of a rolling or bucking horse. Also look for and fix splinters or other protrusions that could cause lacerations.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #429.

When the spring weather finally comes, you may be anxious to quickly stow the winter gear so that you can get on with enjoying the sunshine with your horses. But if you take the time to clean your turnout blankets thoroughly and store them away carefully, you’ll extend their useful life--and you’ll thank yourself when it’s time to get them back out this fall. Follow these steps to keep stored blankets in good shape.

1. Wash them well. A quick spray-down with the hose may be enough to clean lightly soiled blankets, but for the best results, take them to a laundromat. (Before you go, be sure to ask whether they will allow horse items in their machines.) Run the rinse cycle twice to ensure no detergent residue is left behind.

2. Dry thoroughly. Hang the blankets in the sun until they are completely dry; this could take a day or more for heavier items. Storing them slots online while they’re still damp can lead to mold.

3. Repair or replace, as needed. Examine all the fabric, stitching and hardware for loose connections, wear and holes. Have any repairs done now; waiting until the fall can leave you short of time as the cold weather approaches. Spring is also a good time to buy replacement blankets, if needed. You may catch a good sale, and you won’t have to rush to find one later.

4. Store them securely. Fold the blankets neatly and place them inside large plastic bags, then stack them in a dry place. To provide even more security against nesting rodents, store your blankets in clean trash cans or storage bins with lockable lids.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

Trapped in your cubicle on a sunny day, the idea of working outdoors with horses may seem idyllic. But in blustery weather, conditions around a farm can be anything but pleasant. Keep this in mind the next time your veterinarian or farrier comes calling this winter and take a few steps to make the visit a bit more comfortable.

Maintain pathways and parking area. Being able to reach your horse easily and safely is essential for a veterinarian or farrier. Deice slippery surfaces, minimize mud in walkways, and shovel snow in high-traffic areas.

Provide well-lit shelter with electricity. A spacious barn offers the best protection from freezing wind, rain, snow and other winter elements. But if you don’t have one or even a run-in shed, and the weather is particularly bad, consider clearing out a large garage or storage shed to provide a temporary shelter.

In addition, a source of light may be a necessity during the shorter, darker days of winter. If your shelter doesn’t have built-in lighting, you’ll need to get creative. Portable work lights, also called “trouble lights,” that plug into outlets then clamp to or hang from rafters are a good choice, but in a pinch camping lanterns, flashlights and even the headlights of a truck can do.

Prepare your horse. At a minimum, you’ll want to have your horse waiting in the appropriate area when the farrier or veterinarian arrives. If trimming, shoeing or a lameness exam is on the schedule, do your best to clean the mud off your horse’s hooves and legs. Also make yourself available to help out and be prepared to remove blankets, if necessary, during the visit.

Supply warm water. If your barn doesn’t have hot water, have a bucket heater or electric kettle on hand in case your veterinarian or farrier needs warm water. Even if warm water isn’t a necessity, most veterinarians and farriers will appreciate not having to wash their hands in freezing water during the depths of winter.

Set up a portable heater. Your veterinarian and farrier will arrive dressed for the weather, but it’s also nice to have a warm area available for extended consultations or paperwork. A portable heater set in a tack room or feed room can provide a warm respite from the chill. Of course, be sure to turn the heater off and unplug it when no one is in the immediate area.

Offer a warm beverage. Providing a hot chocolate, coffee or tea, perhapsin a “to go” cup at the end of the visit,t’s also nice to have a warm area available for extended consultations or paperwork. A portable heater set in a tack room or feed room can provide a warm respite from the chill. Of course, be sure to turn the heater off and unplug it when no one is in the immediate area.

is a nice gesture.

We all keep a close eye on the weather, particularly at this time of year. Blanketing, turnout times and other management choices often depend on when the next front is coming through and what it may bring with it.

So now’s a good time to brush up on the terms the National Weather Service uses to describe impending winter storms:

• An outlook is issued when there is a chance of a storm in the next two to five days. Tune in to your local TV and radio stations or the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) weather radio online regularly for updates in your area. Some local or county governments send email alerts and text messages about weather conditions to cell phones. Visit your local government websites to register for such alerts.

• An advisory means weather conditions are expected to be hazardous but are not life threatening. When an advisory is issued, keep an eye on the sky and prepare to adapt your plans if necessary.

• When a watch is issued, a storm is expected within 36 to 48 hours, and it’s a good idea to begin preparations to protect your animals and property. This may include stocking up on feed, ensuring the generator is working and moving horses to a secure field with plenty of shelter. Plan ahead so you can provide water if the power goes out---water is the most important element to your horse’s health in any situation.

• A warning means that severe, hazardous conditions are currently happening or are expected in the next 24 hours. By the time a warning is issued, you’ll want to be fully prepared for the event. If not, take immediate action.

We all keep a close eye on the weather, particularly at this time of year. Blanketing, turnout times and other management choices often depend on when the next front is coming through and what it may bring with it.

So now’s a good time to brush up on the terms the National Weather Service uses to describe impending winter storms:

• An outlook is issued when there is a chance of a storm in the next two to five days. Tune in to your local TV and radio stations or the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) weather radio online regularly for updates in your area. Some local or county governments send email alerts and text messages about weather conditions to cell phones. Visit your local government websites to register for such alerts.

• An advisory means weather conditions are expected to be hazardous but are not life threatening. When an advisory is issued, keep an eye on the sky and prepare to adapt your plans if necessary.

• When a watch is issued, a storm is expected within 36 to 48 hours, and it’s a good idea to begin preparations to protect your animals and property. This may include stocking up on feed, ensuring the generator is working and moving horses to a secure field with plenty of shelter. Plan ahead so you can provide water if the power goes out---water is the most important element to your horse’s health in any situation.

• A warning means that severe, hazardous conditions are currently happening or are expected in the next 24 hours. By the time a warning is issued, you’ll want to be fully prepared for the event. If not, take immediate action.

Have you ever wished that you could cut your horse-care costs in half? Or maybe dreamed that your horse could be exercised more times throughout the week? There’s a way to achieve both those goals and retain ownership of your horse. It’s called the “half lease.”

In this type of agreement, the owner of the horse—or lessor—splits the horse’s care expenses and riding time with a lessee. It can be a beneficial way to save money on board, feed, vet bills, etc., and it can be great for your horse if your own saddle time is limited. With respect to the lessee, a half lease can act as a steppingstone into horse ownership.

However, it’s not an agreement that should be taken lightly. In fact, it’s a deal that should be in writing—every time.

“I receive numerous calls every week from people who’re involved in disputes over arrangements, such as leases and half leases. Yet nothing is in writing,” says Julie Fershtman, attorney at law and equine law specialist. “Without a written contract that clarifies the arrangement between the parties, resolving these types of disputes is never easy, quick, or cheap,” she notes.

So what should the contract include? That’s where we, and Julie, come in. tapping her expertise, we’ll share four hypothetical scenarios to show the importance of certain contract provisions. We’ll also go over all the bullet points every contract should include, should you decide to write your own. (Note: This list will also be helpful if you have an attorney draft it.)

If you decide to half lease your horse, we hope this article will help protect you—and your lessee—in the event of an incident.

Scenario #1
Mary is half leasing Bandit, her 15-year-old Quarter horse gelding, to her friend Kevin. During one of Kevin and Bandit’s rides, the horse spooks at the delivery truck driving past the arena. The quick movement unseats Kevin, and he falls off, breaking his arm. Kevin then decides to sue Mary for the cost of medical expenses.

In this case, Mary could’ve attempted to avoid a costly lawsuit, and more, by using a carefully worded release of liability.

This is one of the most important factors for the horse owner to consider, and Julie stresses that “homemade” releases are more likely to fail in court than those drafted by attorneys.

“Because their horses are used in a half lease, the owners accept a degree of risk that someone might be injured by that animal,” says Julie. “I wish more people were aware of this risk. To me, the risk of liability is far more significant than the risk of injury to the animal. I don’t mean to diminish the value of the horse, but when a person is killed or seriously injured, it could be millions of dollars in liability. If the animal is injured, that number is far less.”

Keep a couple of important factors in mind with the release of liability.

First, most states will enforce a properly worded release of liability, so make sure that your state does (more on that later), and make sure your document meets state law requirements, as they all differ.

“It’s important to remember that people who sign releases can and do sometimes sue. The release might cause a dismissal of the case, but not always,” says Julie.

Second, don’t assume that a release will be effective for a minor who’s injured. A release signed by someone under 18 isn’t valid. Even if the parents sign for the child, there could be some issues. Some states won’t enforce it and some will.

“A lessor who’s uninformed accepts a tremendous liability risk in that situation,” Julie warns.

To find out about which agreements your state allows and will enforce, it’s best to speak with an attorney.

Another action you can take as the lessor, suggests Julie, is to purchase an appropriate liability policy, such as a personal horse owner’s liability insurance policy. However, the insurer should be notified that the horse is subject to a lease arrangement.

With this type of insurance, she adds, the policy is designed to protect you if someone were bitten, kicked, struck, or thrown by the horse, and, at the very least, provides a legal defense.

Scenario #2
Kara is half leasing Jazzie, a 10-year-old Appaloosa mare, from her trainer. She and Jazzie get along great, and the arrangement is working well. A month into the half lease, Kara receives an unexpected bill from her trainer for half the cost of Jazzie’s hock injections and two chiropractic appointments. Though Kara agreed to pay half of Jazzie’s board and vet bills in her contract, she had no idea the mare was on such an expensive regimen.

There are two things Kara could’ve done to avoid the surprise bill. First, she should’ve done her homework and talked extensively with her trainer about Jazzie’s care and upkeep and all of her veterinary expenses.

“The lessee needs to be very comfortable with the horse that will be half leased. If willing to enter an agreement, the lessee should do his or her homework and understand the history of that particular horse—any quirks or propensities and special care needs,” says Julie.

Second, this particular issue could’ve been addressed in Kara’s contract. Along with the provision of all the fees the lessee is responsible for, the trainer could’ve listed all of the extra care Jazzie receives on a regular basis. (These can be as little as extra supplements in the mare’s diet to more costly chiropractic, equine dental, massage, acupuncture treatments, etc.)

Or, Kara could’ve insisted that the contract cap her expenses to a certain limit. Another option to cover this in the contract would be to set an approximated flat fee per month, rather than half the expenses.

Chip Cook knew something was wrong the moment he looked out his kitchen window. Star, his wife’s 20-something Thoroughbred mare, was lying very still in a large mud puddle in the pasture.

“Her legs were stuck out stiff and parallel to the ground,” Cook says. “Honestly, I thought she was dead, and as I walked out there I was thinking of the best way to break the news to my wife.”

When Cook reached the mare, however, he found she was alive, but exhausted. “The mud puddle is about 10 feet around and about two feet deep,” he says. “It’s been there for years, and the horses regularly lie down in it to cool off or get a good layer of dirt on to protect themselves from bugs.”

This time, apparently, Star had gotten down into the mud but was unable to get up. “She has arthritis, so her mobility is limited, and we’d just gotten a rain so the sides of the puddle were very slick,” Cook says. “I could see that she had been thrashing, trying to get up, but she’d pretty much given up by the time I got there.”

Cook, a firefighter and part-time farrier, had stopped at home between shoeing appointments last summer just to grab a quick lunch and get a respite from the heat wave that was gripping the Suffolk, Virginia, area. But now he faced a major change of plans.

He encouraged Star to try to get up again, but it was clear she could not, so he ran back into the house and got on the phone: “My first call was the veterinarian, then my wife and finally a few firefighter and horse-minded friends I hoped could come over and help us figure out what to do.”

As part of his firefighter training, Cook had taken a Large Animal Technical Rescue course, and although he’d never had to participate in a rescue, regular reviews of the material had kept it fresh in his mind. He was standing out in the mud puddle considering the options for a rescue strategy when the help began arriving, including Tiffany Omler, DVM, of Coastal Equine Veterinary Service.

Stable, but stuck
“I really didn’t know what to expect when I headed over,” says Omler. “Sometimes, if an older horse has been down for a long time, things can be pretty bad. They can be dehydrated and even in shock.”

Even if a horse is not physically injured, the fear and stress of being trapped can cause circulatory shock, a failure of the cardiovascular system that leads to many potential complications as the organs and tissues are deprived of oxygen. Once shock begins, it can trigger a cascade of events that can quickly lead to death.

Exactly how long Star had been down wasn’t known, but it could have been anywhere up to the seven and a half hours since she’d been seen at breakfast, at 6 that morning.

Omler waded cautiously into the puddle to check Star’s vital signs and do a physical exam as best as she could. Fortunately, she found no signs of shock: “Her heart and respiratory rates were normal and her gums were a healthy pink color.” Feeling the mare’s legs, Omler also found no obvious injuries or fractures, nor did she see any evidence of colic-like pain or muscle cramping, which could indicate tying up.

Star’s good physical condition, says Omler, was probably due in part to where she was stuck: “It was an extremely hot and humid day, but she was in a puddle of water. I’m pretty sure that is what kept her from dangerously overheating.”

Another stroke of luck lay in the position of Star’s head: “She was too exhausted to even hold her head up, but fortunately, it was resting on the edge of the puddle,” says Omler. “Had she been positioned differently, her nose could have ended up in an area deep enough for her to drown.”

Although Star wasn’t in a physiological crisis, Omler decided some medication might still be helpful. “With her arthritis, an anti-inflammatory like bute made sense to keep any pain or stiffness under control,” she says. “I also gave her the corticosteroid dexamethasone, which can be very helpful in cases like this where the entire body is stressed. If she had been dehydrated, we would have needed to give her fluids first, but that wasn’t necessary.” Once Star’s medical needs had been tended to, the focus turned toward how to get her out of the puddle. Omler suggested first rolling the mare onto her other side. “A lot of times when horses are down on one side for a while, simply flipping them over works,” she says. “I think they just exhaust a certain set of muscles and rolling them provides a fresh start, so to speak.”

Working carefully, Cook and his friends attached ropes to the mare’s legs and gently pulled her over. The group stood back and anxiously watched what Star would do, but she only lay still, making no attempt to rise. “She was pretty well done trying,” says Omler. “If anything we may have made the situation worse, because her legs were now pointed toward a steeper side of the puddle.”

Plan B was to physically pull Star from the puddle. “Pulling a horse can be very dangerous for the horse and the human,” says Omler. “It’s not something just anyone can attempt. You have to have proper training and equipment. Thankfully, this entire group had it.”

Cook retrieved rescue gear from his truck, and carefully they threaded the heavy-duty straps around Star’s barrel and between her front legs so the mare could be pulled straight forward. “You can’t pull horses by the tail or the legs or the neck,” says Cook. “The only safe way to do it is to pull them by the body.”

A group of firefighters and horsemen lined up along the rope and, at the count of three, pulled together. The recent rain, however, had made the ground around the puddle slippery, and they could get no traction. “It quickly became clear that we weren’t going to be able to do it,” says Cook.

The wet conditions also ruled out the use of Cook’s truck to pull the mare out. “It was just too soft to get the truck close enough to her,” says Cook. “A tractor could have done it, but we don’t have one.” The group pondered the situation for several minutes, trying to think of any other means they might have to pull Star from the mud. Then Omler had an idea: “What about Ed?”

A mighty pull
Ed is the 15-year-old Belgian who shares Star’s pasture. Throughout the commotion, he had been keeping his distance and grazing, “pretty much uninterested in what was going on,” says Cook.

Cook thought the big horse might have just the skills they needed. “I have a part-time carriage business during the holiday season,” he says. “During the summer, Ed’s just a fun trail mount, but in the winter, he spends his weekends pulling wagons.” Maybe he could drag Star from the puddle.

Cook went to the barn to retrieve Ed’s harness while Omler rechecked the mare’s vital signs. They were still strong and Star was relaxed, despite her exhaustion. “I’m not sure if she knew we were trying to help her,” says Omler. “But she was very cooperative.”

Once the big horse was harnessed, Cook led him to the puddle and attached the straps that were around Star. Everyone stood back as Cook asked Ed to walk forward. “He moved right out, but he’s used to a wagon immediately rolling behind him,” says Cook. “When he felt tension on the rope, he got confused and stopped.”

Pulling a rolling cart and dragging something with resistance are two different skills, and Ed had never done the latter. Cook asked him to pull a second time, and once again, the big horse stopped when he felt the tension in the line.

“He was just sort of baffled, so I kept encouraging him,” says Cook. Finally, after a few false starts, Ed seemed to get the idea. He hunkered down and pulled against the weight of Star. After four powerful strides, the mare was lying on solid ground. “It was really smooth and easy once Ed figured it out,” Cook adds. “It worked just like it was supposed to.”

Star was quickly unhooked from Ed and the harness straps removed from her body. The mare lay still for about 90 seconds then, in one swift motion, climbed to her feet. “She was maybe a little shaky at first,” says Omler, “but she was standing on all four limbs
with no obvious injuries.”

Seconds later Star---ever the alpha mare---lunged toward Ed with her ears pinned. “That might have seemed a little ungrateful,” says Cook, “but it was nice to know she was feeling good enough to boss him around like normal.”

Omler once again checked Star’s vital signs and found them strong. A thick layer of mud on her coat was the only evidence of her ordeal. Since the mare’s head and eyes were also crusted with dirt, says Omler, “I clean-ed them off and checked her corneas for scratches. But her eyes seemed fine as well.”

By the time the veterinarian was finished with the exam, both Star and Ed were back to grazing as if nothing had happened, and Omler went on her way. “I told them to continue the bute for a day or two, if she seemed like she needed it, and call me if she developed any problems,” she says. “Then I drove home and marveled at how well everything had worked out.”

Cook was similarly thankful for their good fortune: “If I hadn’t come home for lunch that day, or if I had not had the rescue training and harness on hand, or if she had gotten injured struggling…. I’m sorry this happened, but if it had to, everything turned out just the way you’d want it to.”

And everyone, of course, gives full credit to Ed for the role he played that day. Says Cook, “It’s a great story and I’m glad he gets to be the hero of it.”

As for the mud puddle, it’s still there, but Cook reports that Star no longer goes anywhere near it.

Step into your horse’s stall and take a deep breath: You want to detect sweet aromas like hay, fresh shavings and maybe a whiff of sweet feed. What you don’t want to smell is the acrid stench of ammonia.

An ammonia smell is more than just unpleasant; you are inhaling a noxious gas released by bacteria as they break down organic materials in urine and feces. Ammonia inhibits the movement of cilia, the tiny finger-like projections that line the airway to sweep fluids and foreign particles up and away from the lungs. When the cilia are compromised, the horse’s natural respiratory defense mechanism is weakened, increasing his risk of disease.

The best defense against ammonia in a horse’s stall is regular, thorough mucking—this includes removing all manure and wet bedding and leaving the floors or mats exposed until they are dry.

A stall that never seems to dry out isn’t getting enough ventilation. Try opening doors or windows until you create enough speelautomaten online cross breeze to dry out the stall within a half day, or place a large fan so that it safely draws out stagnant air.

If the smell persists when the stall is dry, you may face a much bigger job: Dirt floors that are saturated in urine may need to be dug up and replaced, or the drainage system underneath your mats may need an overhaul.

A traditional remedy for minor ammonia smells is the application of lime powder (calcium hydroxide), which reduces moisture and raises the pH, killing bacteria. But lime can be extremely caustic and must be handled with care. Instead, many horsekeepers opt for one of several commercial stall-conditioning products now available that can achieve similar results without the potential downsides.

Whatever product you choose, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and heed any warnings on the label. Most recommend sprinkling a light layer of powder or granules directly on the floor then covering with clean shavings.

When October leaves start falling, you know that winter will soon be knocking on your barn door. And in many parts of the country, that means below-freezing temperatures, snow and ice, slush and mud. Sometimes the bad weather arrives surprisingly early, so to avoid having to struggle to catch up when cold winds are blowing, get started on your winter preparations now:

1. Protect medications. Check the labels of all injectable, topical and oral medications for information about proper storage. Many cannot withstand cold temperatures and will become useless, if not harmful, if they freeze. Either store cold-sensitive products in a climate-controlled tack room, or take them to your house for the winter. (While you’re at it, check the expiration dates and replace any products that have gotten too old.) If you’re unsure whether one of your drugs is still safe, ask your veterinarian. She can also advise you on how to properly dispose of old or damaged products.

2. Test water heaters. Before temperatures hit freezing, make sure any heaters you use for your buckets and troughs are working properly. Turn the heaters on and check the water temperature, then monitor the water meter to ensure your horses are drinking normally. If your horses’ water intake seems to be below normal, investigate the possibility that you have a stray voltage problem.

3. Insulate your hand tools. Slip pieces of foam pipe insulation over the handles of shovels, rakes, wheelbarrows and other barn tools, especially those made of metal, to prevent frost and help protect your hands. Use duct tape to secure the insulation in place so it doesn’t slip as you work.

4. Clean out gutters and drainage ditches. Fallen leaves and other debris that accumulate in your gutters and drainage areas can cause rain and melting snow to back up onto your roofs and along your foundations. If water pools and refreezes, it can create dangerous ice dams that can cause structural damage to your buildings.

5. Mow and drag your pastures. Cutting weeds before they go to seed will help keep them under control next year, and especially if you’re taking your horses off the grass for the winter, dragging the manure will give it plenty of time to decompose. But don’t mow to less than four inches---the grass still needs reserves to help the roots survive the cold months.

6. Inspect your roofs. Stand inside your barn and all sheds on a sunny day and look for defects that are allowing light to come through. Repair any problems you find or arrange to have the work done. If you’re unsure about the integrity of any structure that houses animals, keep it empty until you can have it examined by a professional. Also look out for holes, cracks and rot in the walls, especially along the floor, which may allow rodents and other small creatures to get in.

Check to make sure all your snow guards are in place and secure. These devices are mounted on the roof to prevent large snow slides. They also keep the weight distributed evenly over the entire surface while melting, preventing large buildups along the eaves that can block or damage gutters. Snow guards are more common in northern climates where snowfalls are heavier, but it’s not unusual in these times for weather patterns to fluctuate to the extremes, and you may get more than you expect. Even if you’ve never needed snow guards in the past, you might consider installing them.

7. Walk your fence lines. Shake the posts as you go, looking for loose boards or wires, protruding nails or fasteners, leaning or other signs of developing weakness. Carry a tool belt to make minor repairs as you go, as well as brightly colored tape to mark areas that will require more attention later.

8. Make sure lights are working. In the long daylight hours of summertime, you may not notice or care that indoor or outdoor lights at the barn have burned out---until suddenly the dark comes early, and you find yourself fumbling to change a bulb one evening. Make sure all your work areas will be well lit when you need them to be.

9. Stock up on snow supplies. A number of substances---salt, sand, ash, nonclumping clay cat litter---are useful for providing traction on icy footing. Salt is better at melting ice, but it can also kill vegetation and burn unprotected paws. Sand and ash are safer but can slow the melting process once temperatures start to rise and are very messy. Whichever choice you make, stock up long before snow is in the forecast. While you’re at it, replace any older or broken snow shovels, scrapers, deicers or other winter hand tools.

10. Service powered equipment. Late fall is a good time to change engine oil, flush and replace antifreeze, lubricate and tune up snowblowers, mowers, tractors and other powered equipment, whether you’re storing it away for the winter or prepping it for a season of use. Don’t forget to check and replace any worn tires. If you use a snow blade attachment on your truck, tractor or utility vehicle, make sure it is oiled and in good condition, and place it somewhere you’ll be able to access it readily when it’s needed. Stock up on extra belts, hoses, clamps, antifreeze and similar supplies should you need to make emergency repairs.

11. Stockpile hay, feeds and necessary supplies. It’s a good idea to have extras of all necessities on hand in case winter storms make deliveries or trips to the feed store impossible. How much hay you’ll need to store depends on many factors, including how cold it’s projected to be and how long your pasture can be grazed, but a good rule of thumb is to buy about 10 percent more than you think you’ll need. Also keep about two extra weeks’ worth of feeds and supplements on hand—just be sure to check expiration dates. You don’t want to buy more of a supplement than you can use before it expires. Make sure your first aid kit has anything you might need in an emergency, and stock up on any medications or bandages you use regularly, for a horse with a chronic illness or injury, for example.

12. Inspect your blankets. Even if you cleaned and stored your blankets properly at the end of last season, it’s a good idea to take them out and have a look at them well before you’ll need them again. Mold, insects or rodents may have gotten to them while they were in storage. Check for loose straps, frayed fabric, holes or foul smells, and repair or replace any blankets that need attention.

Also make sure each garment still fits properly. Youngsters, athletes, seniors or laid-up horses may have gained or lost a significant amount of weight over the summer and may not be able to wear the same blanket again. A properly fitting blanket allows a hand to fit snugly under and slide around along the shoulder, withers and rump.

13. Prepare your horse’s feet. If you’re going to pull your horse’s shoes for the winter, it’s best to do it while the weather is still warmer, so he can acclimate before the ground is frozen hard. If you’re going to keep him shod throughout the winter, consult with your farrier about your shoeing choices. If the footing will be slick, some horses may do better with traction devices, such as studs or borium. Snowball pads may also be necessary, to prevent wet snow from getting packed in under his feet.

14. Adjust the airflow in each stall. Too little ventilation in a horse’s stall means that airborne dust can accumulate quickly to unhealthy levels; too much airflow can mean bone-chilling drafts. Check how the air is moving in each stall with one of these two methods:

• Scuff your boots in the bedding, enough to kick up dust. After five minutes use a flashlight or other light source to check the air. If you can still see floating particles, the air is too stagnant.

• Hold a strip of toilet paper, about a foot or two long, at arm’s length at different places in the stall. You want to see it waving gently, to indicate a gentle breeze. If it’s either hanging motionless or flapping vigorously, the airflow is too low or too high. Open and close doors and windows until you reach the ideal amount of ventilation. Usually, a few open windows on the leeward side of the barn, sheltered from snow and rain, provide a healthy supply of fresh air.

Winter weather can sweep in unexpectedly. But if you prepare now, you’ll be ready to relax and enjoy the best the season has to offer, knowing that your property is safe and your horses are cozy.

Pastured horses reap physical, mental, and emotional benefits from continual turnout. But caretakers may face some challenges, among them how to feed grain to the group. Try these tips for delivering meals to a herd safely.

• Serve more meals than there are horses. Set out two or more extra buckets so that herdmates can swap and no one will be without.
• Put some distance between diners. Spreading out the buckets will decrease the likelihood of altercations.
• Segregate bullies. Usually they are the first at the gate at mealtime so take the opportunity to separate them from the rest. Feed them on a lead or in a small catch area. Release them when their herdmates have finished their meals.
• Group horses by nutritional need. Put those that are underweight in one enclosure and those that are overweight in another. Then feed accordingly.
• Fill a nosebag for each horse, put it on at feeding time, remove it immediately thereafter and then make sure it’s clean. Though labor intensive, this approach may be worth the effort for a small herd.

Your horses are hard enough on your fences and gates as they chew, kick, and lean, but you may be damaging them, too. Here are several guidelines for protecting the structures against human wear and tear.

• Build a stile—a permanent set of steps—wherever you commonly climb over a fence. Blueprints for many types are available on the Internet. You can also create a pass through at a popular crossing site to allow people—but not horses—to easily enter a field.
• If you must climb you fence, do so only near a post, where you’re less likely to yank a board loose. Before hoisting yourself up, sharply pull on the board to make sure it’s secure and will hold your weight.
• Prevent gates from sagging on their hinges and dragging across the ground by resting them on a block of wood or even a large rock whenever they’re opened or closed for an extended time. The support should be tall enough that you have to lift the gate up slightly to rest it in place.
• Use a rock or forked stick to prop open a gate and keep it from swinging and banging.
• Place reflectors anywhere there is a risk of a vehicle colliding with a fence, gate, or post in low light. Also use them to mark the fence at your farm’s entryway, particularly if driving onto your property requires a tight turn from the road.