As a concerned horse owner who rides over sometimes-challenging terrain, you’re wise to keep a close eye on your horse’s hooves. But when you spot a hoof problem, don’t assume the trouble lies just in the hoof, and immediately reach for an over-the-counter supplement. What you see could be indicative of another, deeper problem.

Just as your skin and hair says a lot about your general health, your horse’s skin, haircoat, mane, tail, and hooves give you clues on how he’s functioning inside. They’re like border crossings, where internal functions meet the outside environment.

The hoof capsule, the hoof’s outer portion, is part of the integument system, your horse’s entire outer covering. That tough hoof wall is really just an adaptation of skin, much as your fingernails relate to your skin. The blood supply that serves your horse’s skin and coat also sends nutrients to his outer hoof.

Therefore, your approach to fixing the problem needs to be well thought out and done so in conjunction with your veterinarian. Make sure that you’re feed good-quality hay. No supplement can make up for substandard forage.

Also make sure your horse’s digestive system is working properly, he’s parasite-free, and he’s getting enough water.

Ask your farrier if he or she has seen similar hoof problems in your area,

and if so, what the outcome has been.

If your veterinarian or farrier agrees that hoof supplements will likely help your horse’s hooves, follow this six-step plan for optimal results.

Step #1: Give it Time
Note that supplements don’t “fix” the hoof. There’s no way to fix a poor-quality hoof wall — your horse has to grow a new one. This growth takes two things: stimulus and time.

Hoof supplements provide the stimulus, but then you need to be patient. Once you put your horse on a supplement program, you must give it time to work.

Purchase at least a 60-day supply of your chosen supplement, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. When you reorder, order the same supplement, and continue to follow the dosing instructions.

It might take four to six months to see the results of a good hoof supplement. Your farrier might notice that your horse’s hoof wall isn’t as spongy in the nippers as it was during the previous trim. He or she might notice that the wall is getting stronger or that the white line looks tighter.

Then your farrier will gradually rasp and nip away the old crumbly wall and sole. When healthy, new wall is in the jaws of those nippers, it feels like hitting pay dirt.

Step #2: Consider Protein
Vegetable-based protein is a quirky diagram of building blocks called amino acids. Each is there for a reason, and each serves a function. They’re usually in ample supply in horse feeds in the form of soybean or cottonseed oils.

Two types of amino acids dwell in those building blocks. One type contains sulphur and one does not. The conventional wisdom for stimulating hoof growth is to feed sulphur-based amino

acids (such as methionine), because the hoof wall is constructed of the protein keratin, and keratin contains sulphur-based amino acids.

However, this isn’t always a successful approach, because the building-block diagram calls for a balance between all the protein elements. If your horse is deficient, feeding just the right amount may help, but that’s a gamble.

And keep in mind that most things in nature have a yin-yang relationship: Pumping up a single nutrient will affect another nutrient.

Step #3: Consider Minerals
The biggest source of minerals in your horse’s diet is the soil in his pasture and in his hay. Like other nutrients, minerals need to be in balance.

The bigger group of minerals, called the macro minerals, consists of magnesium, phosphorus, calcium, sodium, sulfur, chloride, and potassium. The micro minerals important to your horse are zinc, copper, manganese, iodine, selenium, chromium, and cobalt.

The principle minerals to look for in a hoof supplement are calcium, phosphorus, zinc, copper, manganese, cobalt, and chromium. Again, work with an equine nutritionist to determine the right mix for your horse.

Step #4: Consider Vitamins

Give your supplement time to work. Over time, your farrier will gradually rasp and nip away the old crumbly wall and sole and a healthy, new wall will grow in.

Many have suggested that horses with wall cracks, slow hoof growth, or spongy hoof walls need the vitamin biotin. Research studies clearly have shown that horses do respond to a target addition of biotin to the feed.

But just as clearly, research has shown that some horses with hoof-quality issues don’t respond to biotin. There’s also the question of how much biotin to feed.

Biotin is sold as a supplement, but it’s also manufactured in the horse’s hind gut. There’s no question that biotin is a key nutrient for proper hoof metabolism at the cellular level. But don’t be surprised if your horse doesn’t respond after a few months. It might be better to feed a broad-spectrum hoof supplement that contains biotin, among other nutrients.

Also look for supplements that contain Vitamins A and D for horses with hoof problems.

Step #5: Choose Pellets or Powder
To choose between pelleted and powdered formulations, consider how and where you feed your horse, and what his habits are. Some horses are messy eaters that knock over a feed tub or bucket, spilling the contents onto a stall floor or the ground. These horses will waste a powdered supplement, but they’ll probably clean up flavored pellets.

You can also hand feed your horse’s daily dose of pelleted supplements as a treat.

A powdered supplement is a great choice for a horse that receives direct care, such as a stall-bound horse with laminitis or a leg injury. You can feed a powdered supplement in a wall-hung feeder, or mix it with some applesauce, put it in a medication tube, and push the plunger right in your horse’s mouth.

Step #6: Choose Targeted or Broad Spectrum
Whether you should use a targeted, specific element or a broad-spectrum formula is the biggest argument in hoof nutrition and overflows into differences of opinion with overall horse nutrition.

Many equine nutritionists and veterinarians simply state that overfeeding a single nutrient can be more dangerous for a horse than underfeeding it.

If you’re already feeding your horse a general vitamin supplement or a fortified grain product, he may be receiving plenty of the nutrients he needs. Therefore, avoid piling on a single ingredient, such as methionine, zinc, or biotin.

If you feel that you must supplement an individual nutrient, do so with the help of an equine nutritionist to determine the proper dosage.

Fran Jurga is the editor of Hoofcare & Lameness journal. She also writes Fran Jurga’s Hoof Blog.

Thrush stinks, no question. That smelly black goo around the edge of the frog is a common infection that takes root in the soft tissues on the underside of the hoof. Thrush is usually not debilitating when treated promptly, but it can take diligence to get a stubborn case under control, especially in seasons when the turnout areas

stay wet and mucky for weeks.

It’s far better to prevent thrush from taking hold in the first place, and that means minimizing the three conditions the infection needs to thrive: constant moisture, an anaerobic0 environment, and the presence of fungi, bacteria and other microorganisms. Here are some specific steps to take:

• Provide dry footing. If your turnout areas are constantly wet, bring horses into a barn periodically to give their hooves a chance to dry out. Providing dry run-in sheds and spreading areas of gravel in wet paddocks also allow horses to escape soggy footing.

• Keep stalls and paddocks clean. Manure and urine foster the growth of pathogens. Muck stalls and small turnouts daily.

• Pick out your horse’s feet regularly. Horses who live in larger pastures probably won’t require daily attention, but do check their hooves at least once week to make sure no problems are developing.

• Stick to a farriery schedule. Horses with hoof imbalances and lameness issues are at higher risk for thrush. Regular farrier visits will help keep your horse’s feet healthy and sound.

• Take more care with acidic footing. Chipped or shredded wood is a common choice for bedding in some areas of the country, but some trees, especially conifers, tend to be acidic. When these materials decompose in wet paddocks, they can change the

pH of the soil and foster the growth of bacteria that cause thrush as well as abscesses. If you use these materials, be extra vigilant in monitoring the health of your horse’s feet.

• Make sure your horse gets plenty of exercise. With every step a horse takes, his hooves expand and contract. This constant flexing pushes out dirt and debris. Horses who stand for long periods in manure-laden footing are more likely to develop thrush. If regular turnout is not an option, hand-walking or riding the horse over dry ground will help clean his feet.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #425.

Q: I’m curious about the hoof condition known as canker. I was told that my older horse had it after I noticed a smelly discharge that started during a spell of wet weather. I haven’t been able to find a lot of information about canker, and my farrier and veterinarian have never treated a horse for this. What are your thoughts?

A: Canker is an infection that invades the surface tissues of the hoof and causes overgrowths, beginning in the frog and extending to the sole and hoof wall, and in severe cases even to the skin of the pastern. Signs include an intact but ragged-looking frog, a putrid odor and a thick, white discharge with a cheese-like texture.

Canker causes the horn growth of the frog to be very friable, and the horse is usually very sensitive when you poke around and inspect these areas. The infection, which can occur in one or multiple feet, can be quite damaging and painful enough to cause lameness. (Especially in its earliest stages, canker is sometimes confused with thrush, another type of hoof infection. One distinguishing difference is that thrush erodes, or destroys, tissue, while canker causes mounding overgrowths.)

We don’t know for sure what causes canker, but we have some evidence it could be a papillomavirus. Other studies have consistently isolated spirochete-type bacteria from these lesions. It is possible that both a virus and bacteria contribute to the problem. In that case, it could be that the virus triggers the rapid, abnormal growths, which eventually lead to necrosis and secondary bacterial infections.

Canker is rare and is mostly diagnosed in wet, muddy climates of the southern United States. It seems to be most common in drafts, but I have seen it in other types of horses as well. Although some lesions may be small, about the size of a dime, others can be quite widespread and damaging. I’ve seen severe cases where large regions of the hoof capsule have sloughed off from the separation caused by the disease. Another serious case involved the digital cushion (the tissue mass that lies above the frog within the hoof capsule) and almost progressed to the deep digital flexor tendon. It is important to recognize and treat canker early before the infection extends that far and gets too serious.

It’s best to involve both your farrier and veterinarian in the treatment, which consists of debriding (cutting away) all of the abnormal tissue. And just as you would with an invasive tumor, you need to trim off some of the surrounding healthy tissue as well to make sure all of the diseased tissue is gone. The viruses and/or bacteria may be present in these healthy-looking areas and act as a source for reinfection.

As a precautionary measure, after I surgically debride the area I follow up with laser treatment to the entire surgical site. If it’s just a small area I perform this procedure with the horse standing and the foot desensitized with a nerve block, but in more severe cases, or those involving multiple feet, I typically do the procedure under general anesthesia. Some horses may require a shoe with a removable treatment plate to protect the area as it heals.

Many topical treatments are described in the literature, but what seems to have worked most consistently for me is painting the area with the antibacterial solution Tricide and then applying a mixture of the antibiotics tetracycline and metronidazole. I usually put the horse on a systemic antibiotic, oxytetracycline, for three to four days after the surgery.

It’s wise for your veterinarian to reexamine the foot during the healing process to make sure that any canker-type tissue is not reappearing. If there is, minor debridement or laser treatment may be required. However, using the technique described, I have successfully treated many cases of canker without recurrence. The healing period depends largely on how badly affected the foot had been but ranges from 60 days to many months in severe cases.

Preventive measures include keeping the feet as clean and dry as possible, routine trimming and medicating any areas that look suspicious. It is possible that thrush can predispose a horse to developing canker, since it too is most common in wet environments. But I have also seen a few cases of canker in horses who were kept in a very clean dry barn with good foot care.

Scott E. Morrison, DVM
Rood and Riddle Equine Hospital
Lexington, Kentucky

With spring a distant memory, you may think the risk of laminitis is well behind you. Don't be fooled by late summer's dried and sparse pastures, however. They can still precipitate the devastating hoof condition in susceptible horses.

Fructan is the sugar in grass that triggers metabolic laminitis. Although we commonly think of lush, green grass as the riskiest forage, fructan levels in pasture increase during times of stress and arrested growth, such as during a drought.

In addition, a flush of growth with the return of moisture, followed by noticeably lower nighttime temperatures, can set up conditions in which fructan levels rise. Fructan is found in cool-season grasses commonly used in pastures, such as bluegrass and orchard grass. It's important to note, however, that the type of grass doesn't have as much to do with fructan levels as the growing conditions.

If you have a horse who is at increased risk of laminitis—one who is insulin resistant or obese, for example, or has previously had the condition—remain vigilant throughout the late summer and early fall. This may mean keeping him muzzled a few weeks longer or moving him onto a dry lot. (Take this time to look critically at each horse's body condition and make other feed changes as needed, too.)

In addition, try to ride your at-risk horse regularly. Exercise can also help reduce the risk of laminitis.

It’s the middle of summer and your horse’s hooves seem to be sending an SOS. The soles and frogs are peeling and flaking.

Yet a bit of examination may reveal that the cause is simply a seasonal change in footing.

Equine hooves typically get plenty of moisture in the spring. As a result, the horn that emerges is very pliant and relatively soft. In the summer, drier conditions stimulate the growth of much harder, denser horn. The zone between the soft and hard growth eventually causes the frogs and soles to crack and peel.

The condition is temporary, and regular trimming will prevent it from causing your horse any trouble. If, however, be becomes lame or his hooves develop a very foul odor indicative of thrush, consult your veterinarian.

If you’re considering pulling your horse’s shoes and switching to hoof boots, know that there are several critical steps to take as you make the transition.

Before you invest in expensive hoof boots that may or may not be right for your horse, check out our tips, do your homework, and talk to your farrier and veterinarian. Then decide which, if any, boot is best for your horse.

Here, we’ll give you tips on boot fit and how to get started. Plus, we’ll provide live links to hoof-boot manufacturers and to further reading.

(For more information, see “Your Guide to Hoof Boots,” The Trail Rider, July/August ’12)

Size & Shape

If you’ve evaluated your horse with the help of your veterinarian and farrier, and have decided your horse is a good candidate for hoof boots, the next step is to select the right boot size and shape.

You may be so accustomed to your own horse that you aren’t aware of how varied hoof shape can be.

Thoroughbred-type feet tend to be more round, while those of gaited breeds may be more oval. Trying to jam an oval hoof into a round boot sounds like an old cliché, and it’s just as true: Find a boot shaped like your horse’s foot.

To check hoof-boot fit, listen for rubbing and hitting between hooves, especially when your horse is tired.

Photo courtesy of EasyCare Inc.

Most hoof-boot makers will advise you to make tracings of your horse's feet soon after trimming. Custom-made boots will require this step. By tracing your horse’s foot, you’ll clearly see whether it’s wider than it is long.

Keep in mind that your tracings will capture your horse’s feet as they were shaped on that day. If you’ve recently removed your horse’s shoes, his foot shape may change quite a bit in the months to come.

Plan to evaluate hoof-boot fit on a regular basis, or opt for boots with plenty of adjustment features.

Custom-made boots are sometimes required for hard-to-fit sizes. For instance, if you have a half-draft trail horse, you may be limited in your choices to find a boot big enough for him.

You might also have a hard time finding variety in boots for a small pack animal, such as a burro or Sicilian donkey. But with the number of boots on the market today, there’s a boot for every equid!

Determine Fit

“Fit” and “size” aren’t interchangeable terms when it comes to hoof boots. Determine the correct size for your horse in consultation with the manufacturer (or his/her representative) or a knowledgeable and patient tack-shop salesperson.

Spend time researching models, and have your hoof tracings on hand as you examine each one.

Find out in advance under what conditions the boots may be returned for a refund if they don’t fit your horse. Custom boots are usually not returnable. Ask about warranties for materials.

Ideally, you should load your barefoot horse onto a trailer and drive to the tack shop or boot fitter, unless he or she can come to you. If the shop permits, and if your trailer and horse are spotlessly clean, you may be allowed to try a boot on your horse to see how it fits.

Don’t be surprised if a boot fits your horse’s front feet, but not his hind ones. Hind feet are generally more oval and may be a different size.

Likewise, if your horse has mismatched front hoof angles — a common condition — he may need two different boot

Don’t be surprised if a hoof boot fits your horse’s front feet, but not his hind ones. Hind feet are generally more oval and may be a different size. Many boot models, such as Renegade (shown) are sold as single boots.

Photo courtesy of Renegade Hoof Boot

sizes. This can be problematic if the boots are only sold in pairs, but correct fit is imperative. Some horses wear boots from different manufacturers.

High-tech customized boots, such as the Swiss Horse Boot, are sold only after a professional fitting by authorized farriers or hoof trimmers who specialize in those boots. Most boots offer some adjustments for odd-shaped hoof walls, but the shape of the platform under the foot still must match your horse’s hoof shape. Even with an ample hook-and-loop adjustment system in Cavallos, Deltas, and Old Mac’s, a good fit must start with selecting the correct size.

Every few months, stand back and evaluate how your horse’s hoof boots fit. Ask your farrier to check the boots and point out any developing problems.

Note that you may or may not be able to use the same pair of boots for multiple horses. Over time, some boots seem to have more “memory” than others, and take on altered shapes similar to the hooves they cover. Don’t try to make an old boot fit a new horse; the likelihood of a good fit will decrease.

Likewise, don’t share boots with friends and acquaintances, except perhaps in a dire emergency. The likelihood of getting the boots back in their original condition is slim.

Plus, boots are easily lost or stolen, and any mishaps that the borrower experiences while riding might be blamed on the borrowed boots.

Boot Up

You've bought the boots, now what? Here are some startup tips.

A sound, booted horse should move confidently and freely.

Photo courtesy of Cavallo

Your farrier has done an excellent job of fortifying your horse’s weak, shelly hooves, but what happens to them between farrier visits can go a long way toward preserving their health. To help strengthen your horse's hooves, try incorporating the following tips into your daily management:

• Keep your horse’s hooves as dry as possible. Moisture weakens hoof walls and provides an ideal environment for bacterial invasions. Just as destructive as excess moisture, however, are extreme fluctuations between wet and dry conditions, which cause the hoof to expand and contract with each moisture change. Horses on summer pasture go through the wet-dry cycle daily, with morning dew giving way to ground-baking dryness. Frequent baths and postexercise hosings also contribute to this problem, so stick to careful spongings that keep hooves relatively dry.
• Stand your horse on solid ground. A tenderfooted horse may look ouchy on harder footing, but the firm ground helps toughen feet. An ideal flooring for stabled horses is made up of dense stall mats covered by a thin layer of dry bedding.
• Make sure your horse gets enough exercise. Simply walking around a pasture stimulates hoof circulation and growth. Even if your mount’s feet look fragile, resist the urge to restrict activity.
• Apply hoof tougheners. Commercial bonding agents formulated to harden hooves are available through tack stores. Ask your farrier which ones would be most suitable for your horse. Avoid preparations that contain oils because they can contribute to softening of the wall.

Last fall I wrote on “Vegas,” Turtle Powell’s standout head horse, and his medical problems, including laminitis. This column is an update on Vegas, courtesy of Turtle and Vegas’ farrier, Blaine Chapman, with some general comments along the way on laminitis in horses, aka “founder.”

Vegas’ problems started last summer with a respiratory infection that had as a consequence a vascular disease (purpura hemorrhagica) and ultimately resulted in significant laminitis. General comment number one: Laminitis can result from a variety of causes. Laminitis literally means inflammation of the lamina. The lamina are the interlocking structures that form the weight-bearing bridge between the inside of the hoof capsule and the corium (covering) of the coffin bone. These cause symptoms of laminitis, which I'll discuss below.

When these structures become inflamed they swell, exude serum and functionally the connecting bond gives way to the stress of weight-bearing and they fail. Efforts to minimize the damage become the objective in dealing with this condition. These efforts include systemic medications, local treatment (such as soaking the feet) and supportive measures to try and stabilize the anatomical structures of the foot. General comment number two: It takes a dedicated team of owner and specialists in the field to have a chance for success in significantly impacted horses with this condition.

Turtle related that the most discouraging days were right before he left to go to the NFR (Wrangler National Finals Rodeo) last December. Vegas had basically been lying down for two weeks. He was eating and drinking well, but would not get up. Turtle called in Blaine Chapman, a horseshoer he knew who has had a lot of experience in dealing with this condition. Blaine encouraged Turtle to wait out the bad spell because, considering the severity of Vegas’ founder, his state was to be expected.

In this horse’s specific condition, it was decided to resect (remove) the anterior hoof wall, which was known per radiographs to have already separated from the coffin bone, plus using special supportive shoeing as the basics of treatment. General comment number three: This example pertains to the circumstances of this specific case. There is no “one size fits all” or singular approach to treating this condition.

This photo shows the anterior hoof wall having been resected. The bottom of the shoe is specially designed to support the coffin bone during the healing process. (It takes six months to a year for the hoof wall to grow from the hairline to the ground.)

Photo courtesy Turtle Powell

Laminitis has received a good deal of attention and study in the last few decades. To this point, there has not evolved any “silver bullet” treatment regimen for the problem. It should be treated as an emergency, but unfortunately, by the time one notices symptoms of painful feet there is already the start of degenerative changes in the critical areas of the foot. We continue to wish Vegas the best possible progress, and will keep tracking his condition as he is no doubt one of the great ones.

Chronic laminitis occurs when a horse has acute laminitis, and fails to recover. After four to six months of fighting the disease, it now becomes classified as chronic laminitis. Watch the video to learn more.

For more information about laminitis and founder, as well as additional videos in the laminitis and founder series, check out the Animal Health Foundation website.