Q: What is the best way to clean and polish bits? Does it vary depending on what kind of metal the bit is made from? Does using a sponge with soap make the bit really taste bad for the horse?

A toothbrush and toothpaste will give your metal bit a high shine while being kind to your horse's mouth.

© Stacey Nedrow-Wigmore

A: This is a terrific question. Cleaning your horse’s bit well after every ride prevents buildup of dried spit and food particles that can become uncomfortable for his mouth and lips. However, many metal cleaners and polishes contain toxic chemicals that can irritate and even injure his mouth and skin—even on the sides of his face where the rings, cheeks or shanks of the bit ­occasionally touch. I’ve seen horses develop painful blisters from such products, which not only require medical treatment but also create serious training problems, such as an aversion to being bridled and resistance to rein contact.

My rule of thumb is that if I would not eat it, cook with it or brush my teeth with it, I won’t use it on my horse’s bit. I use the following simple, effective cleaning and polishing methods, which work for all types of metal.

Start with a daily cleaning routine. After every ride, swish the bit around in a small bucket of clean water mixed with a few drops of vinegar or pinches of baking soda, both of which have natural antibacterial properties. Then wipe off the bit with a clean cloth.

Every few weeks or on occasions when you want to bring out more of a shine, such as for a clinic or horse show, remove the bit completely from the bridle and clean it with a toothbrush and toothpaste. I like to use a toddler-size brush—because it can get into the nooks and crannies—and fluoride-free children’s toothpaste, which is nonabrasive. If your bit has any small gaps between parts, such as the joints of a loose-ring snaffle, run a pipe-cleaner (available at hobby and craft stores) through the gaps to clear them of debris.

Next, soak the bit in very hot ­water—as hot as your hands can stand—for five to 10 minutes. Dry it with a soft terrycloth towel (children’s washcloths are the best, and they’re relatively ­inexpensive). Then rub it briskly with a microfiber cloth (available at most stores that sell household cleaning products). This will give it extra dazzle.

Following the above steps routinely will keep the bit as comfortable as possible in your horse’s mouth. But if you want to take it a step further and make the bit even more appealing to him, add a little flavor. Rub an apple slice on the bit before you bridle him—or even offer a small slice to him by holding it directly underneath the bit in your hand when you ask him to take it into his mouth. You can also spray the bit with an all-­natural flavored bit spray, or make your own out of diluted apple or carrot juice.

There are a variety of other safe, all-­natural products on the market that encourage horses to accept the bit. For green horses just learning about the bit or older horses who may have had bad experiences that led to bit-related training problems, I like to use dissolvable, flavored “wraps,” which are similar to thinly sliced fruit roll-ups. Wind the wrap around the bit like a ribbon before bridling. This will reward your horse for taking the bit quietly when you tack up—and will make the ride a happier experience altogether for him. After your ride, rinse off the wrap residue by simply dunking the bit in a bucket of clean water.

While we’re on the subject, always be absolutely certain that your horse’s bit fits his mouth correctly. Ask a professional for help if you’re not sure how to judge a correct fit. Your horse will thank you for everything you do to make his bit more comfortable and palatable!.

Michelle Tate-Fuller grew up in England where she earned her first riding lessons at age 4 by cleaning a boxful of moldy tack for her father, a member of the British Olympic modern pentathlon team and a certified British Horse Society Instructor. She trained with BHS before her family moved to the United States in 1994. She then went on to be a working student at the Stanford Equestrian Center and worked for several trainers in California. Michelle found a niche for herself as a consultant for new horse owners, teaching them basic care and grooming essentials. “I try to help them stay in the sport and not be scared off by the challenges of horse care,” she says. Michelle is now based in the Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas, area with her two children.

This article first appeared in the June 2012 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.

No one knows exactly when humans discovered they could control their horses with some sort of device in the animal’s mouth, but ancient art, literature, biblical references (such as Psalm 32), and archaeological artifacts suggest that it was at least 3000 years ago.

The first horse bits were probably rawhide, then bronze, and eventually the iron or aluminum we’re familiar with today. Human experience with horses over the centuries has resulted in myriad versions of the horse bit, a relatively simple device, and just as many opinions as to how it should be used.

One fine trainer I know rarely uses anything but a snaffle horse bit; another, a very successful reining horse competitor, has a wall covered with so many horse bits it would put the displays in most tack shops to shame. He uses them all, believing finding just the right horse bit for a given horse at a given level of training is one secret to success.

My best advice? Keep an open mind! Don’t let someone’s generalization throw out centuries of experience by horse people whose livelihoods and very lives depended on the training of their horses.

Learn how bits work. The mouthpiece must fit into your horse’s bars or interdental space, the gum area between his front teeth and his molars.

Know that snaffles have no shanks and work by direct rein pressure.

Learn how to judge the leverage of curb bits by the ratio of the lower shank to the upper, the shape of the mouthpiece, and the slack in the curb strap.

And don’t jump to accept a marketer’s claim that a certain bit (or headstall device without a bit) is automatically more “humane.” Skill, timing, and sensitive hands are the measures of the sort of training that gets results without cruelty.

A snaffle used with insensitive hands is harsher than a mild curb used properly, just as spurs used with sensitive feet are gentler than bare heels thumping hard on a horse’s rib cage.

(For more about trail bits from Montana horseman Dan Aadland, see Sketches From the Trail, The Trail Rider, March ’12.)

You know it’s important for your horse’s saddle and bridle to fit correctly. But don’t forget to make sure his bit fits, too. A bit that’s too small can pinch the corners of the mouth, while a bit that’s too big can move around too much and clunk against his teeth. Rubbed patches or thickened skin at the corners of the mouth are signs of bad bit fit, but it’s better not to wait to see physical evidence that a bit doesn’t fit well.

To test whether a bit is the proper size for your horse, you need only an ordinary piece of twine and a ruler or tape measure:

• Guide the twine into the horse’s mouth and back toward the corners so that it is positioned approximately where the bit would lie.

• Pull it taut and use your fingers to grasp it at each corner of the lips.

• Remove the twine and use your ruler to measure the length between your fingers.

The general rule is that a properly fitted bit measures a quarter-inch longer than the width of the horse’s mouth. You can adjust the cheek pieces of the bridle to make sure that the bit rests properly in the bars of the mouth, creating one or two wrinkles at the corners.

In addition to width, the overall shape of a horse’s mouth, including the hard palate and the size of his tongue, can influence the size of bit he needs. This means that a thicker bit is not always milder. And, as a horse ages, the contours of his mouth may change, so the bit you use now may not be comfortable for him in 10 years. It’s easy to start second-guessing your current bit, but don’t worry: If your horse is happy and responsive, chances are it fits just fine. If you’re concerned, you can always ask your veterinarian to evaluate it.

There are a number of causes of bit chewing; it's up to you to rule out discomfort and anxiety and find the bit he's most comfortable wearing. © Amy Katherine Dragoo

Liza Towell Boyd
A: It sounds as if your horse is trying to tell you something. Constant horse bit chewing is often a sign of nervousness—particularly in younger horses—or discomfort. Consulting your vet and chiropractor is a good start, but you may need to dig deeper to discover the root of the horse bit chewing problem. Ask for second opinions, do your own research and experiment. Here are some avenues to explore.

If your horse is young, his bit chewing may result from immaturity or unfamiliarity with the bit. He might need more time getting accustomed to the feel of the bit in his mouth without also having to focus on a rider on his back. Remove the noseband and reins, and put the bridle on him in his stall for an hour or so, staying nearby to keep an eye on him. (Make sure there is nothing in the stall he can catch the bridle on. Never do this with a bit that can hook onto things, such as a full-cheek snaffle.) Repeat this daily until he seems to get tired of bit chewing.

Next, longe him with the bridle on, either feeding the longe line through the bit ring, over his poll and attaching it to the ring on the other side, or putting a halter or longing cavesson over the bridle and attaching the longe line to that. When his chewing ­decreases significantly on the longe line, begin riding him again.

In horses of any age, bit chewing can signify anxiety. Different horses mature at different rates. Even if your horse seems physically prepared to perform at his current level, he may not be ready mentally. Try reducing the pressure: shorten your schooling sessions, take him on trail rides and so on. Even consider turning him out for a few months and giving him a total break. Then bring him back slowly, making sure he’s comfortable in every situation ­before progressing. When you ease back into showing, do just the ticketed warm-ups at first.

If your horse is older, the first thing I’d suspect is ulcers. Not all ulcers are easy to diagnose, and some do not respond to anti-ulcer medications. Even in the absence of a diagnosis, there are a wide range of effective treatments, including diet changes and alternative therapies, such as acupuncture and herbs, worth trying. Try substituting alfalfa and corn oil for portions of your horse’s hay and grain. Provide his hay ­ration in a hay bag with very small openings to ­encourage him to nibble throughout the day in a more natural “grazing” manner.

Also look closely at his mouth for cracks in the corners of his lips or sores on his gums or inside his cheeks. Apply petroleum jelly to the sores and ride him in a hackamore, if possible, until they heal.
Find a certified equine dentist to take a second look at his teeth, as well. (Because they specialize in teeth, equine dentists can sometimes catch abnormalities that veterinarians miss.) In addition to identifying possible hooks, wolf teeth, etc., that might be bothering your horse, he or she can also tell if your horse has a low palate, which makes the bit sit differently in his mouth.

Speaking of bits, keep experimenting! We sometimes consult an expert bit salesman for suggestions when nothing in our trunk seems to be working. Some horses like thicker bits; some like thinner. Some like bits with multiple joints; others prefer straight, soft bits. Try different metals and materials. Look online, browse tack shops and ask other riders and trainers if they have bits you can borrow.

Hunter judges may penalize “nonconventional” bits in the show ring, including hackamores, kimberwicks, gags, multiring snaffles, etc. However, if your horse goes well in a mild, less-conventional bit, it’s the judge’s prerogative to deem it acceptable. I know a famous hunter, for example, who shows in a leather bit, and judges either can’t tell or don’t mind.

Experiment with his noseband, too. It sounds as if he’s fighting the flash, which may be contributing to his anxiety. Try removing it and lowering or raising the cavesson a hole or two. Sometimes ­repositioning where the noseband sits on the jaw can make a positive difference. Switching to a figure-eight noseband temporarily may also help. Remember, though, that flash, dropped and figure-eight nosebands are not “recommended” in the show-hunter ring (according to the USEF Rule Book).

Finally, ask a trainer or clinician to evaluate your riding to make sure you’re not contributing to the problem unconsciously. Too-strong hands or locked elbows, back and shoulders—even in the subtlest form—can cause this type of resistance in sensitive horses. Asking an experienced rider to school your horse can also supply valuable feedback that may help to identify the source of the problem.

Whatever is causing your horse’s chewing, be patient with him. Taking time to solve this problem now is much more important than sticking to whatever predetermined plan you may have had for this show season. If you only fix the problem temporarily, don’t be discouraged. Some solutions need to be modified over time. But you’ll succeed in the end if you keep thinking outside the box and listening to your horse!

One of today’s leading hunter riders, Liza Towell Boyd learned much of what she knows from two top trainers: her father, Jack Towell, and Missy Clark. After college, she joined the family business and went on to win 11 USHJA Hunter Derbies and numerous major hunter championships. Liza and her husband, Blake, have a 2-year-old daughter, Ellen.

This article originally appeared in the January 2012 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.

In the July/August ’11 issue of The Trail Rider (“Go Forward Under Saddle,” Joy of Riding,) world-renowned trainer/clinician Linda Tellington-Jones gives you five exercises to encourage your horse to move out freely on the trail.

Your choice of bit can also influence your horse’s impulsion and energy. As you select a bit for your trail horse, you may want to consider the Tellington Training Bit (www.ttouch.com) designed by Linda Tellington-Jones.

About the Bit
The Tellington Training Bit, a curb bit, is made from stainless steel and has a seven-inch shank. The shank is loose and curved back, which, says Linda Tellington-Jones, has a softening effect on a horse’s mouth, poll, and back. The mouthpiece has a copper roller.

The Tellington Training Bit is designed to be used with two reins; for best results, use it with lightweight, narrow reins.

According to Tellington-Jones, this bit has been shown to:

• Improve transitions, carriage, balance, and engagement.
• Reshape ewe-necked, hollow-backed, and strung-out horses.
• Soften the back and encourage flexion at the poll.
• Calm and control overcompetitive or spooky horses.

“The experience we’ve had with many riders who use this bit is that it allows the horse a greater freedom of the head and neck,” notes Tellington-Jones. “The horse uses the muscles of his back in a more fluid fashion, activating a more effective movement throughout the body — like no other bit!

“Because the horse is more balanced, the rider doesn’t hang on the horse’s mouth as we see so often. With this bit, you don’t have to take hold of the horse’s head.”

Soft & Supple
“I like a curb bit,” says Tellington-Jones. “It’s my experience and opinion that a snaffle bit sitting on the horse’s tongue can really affect his connection to the ground, and his ability to speed up and slow down. “All the points — from tongue to jaw to sternum to shoulder — must be free of tension in order for the horse to move freely and comfortably. Constrict any of those points and you’ve jammed the system, which often manifests as behavioral and performance issues, ranging from balkiness and short-striding to sourness and head-tossing.

“There’s something about the Tellington Training Bit that encourages suppleness in the back and forward movement,” Tellington-Jones continues. “Horses really seem to like the bit. Just carrying the bit with their head loose, horses tend to track up differently and get in balance.

“We find that horses that tend to be too slow or have a tendency to be lazy start to come into an improved sense of physical balance, which then brings them into mental and emotional balance. They have better connection with the ground, and they can listen to you.”

The Tellington Training Bit is a loose jaw bit, allowing a outward pivoting action to the metal pieces attached to the bar.

Photo courtesy of Linda Tellington-Jones

On the Trail
World champion endurance rider Becky Hart uses the Tellington Training Bit. (For more on Becky Hart, click here.)

“I was introduced to Becky Hart and her remarkable horse RO Grand Sultan — known as Rio — in the late 1970s at the American Endurance Ride Conference’s North American Championship on the northern coast of California,” says Tellington-Jones.

“Over the years, I’ve worked with Becky and Rio, including at the 1996 World Endurance Championship in Kansas, and another ride in Wyoming. We did a lot of TTouch on Rio after the completion of the Kansas ride, and at age 18 this horse was presented with the coveted Best Condition award.”

Hart used the Tellington Training Bit with Rio for training and in competition. “She often spoke of how this bit rebalanced Rio,” says Tellington-Jones. “He became more supple and free-moving.”

“I also remember a situation with [top endurance competitor] M.J. Jackson’s horse at the three-day Race of Champions event,” says Tellington-Jones.

“On the day before the first ride, her horse’s back was so sore that she couldn’t even present him for the veterinary check-in. This horse was so high-headed and ewe-necked that it looked like his ears were in the rider’s face — which obviously made his back hollow and sore.

“So I put a different pad on him, along with the Tellington Balance Rein and the Training Bit, and rode him for about 10 minutes to get the horse to extend his neck and really reach out.

“M.J. ended up placing seventh overall for the three days, and her horse had a sound back at the end of the 180 miles.”

Photo courtesy of Linda Tellington-Jones

Cynthia McFarland is a full-time freelance writer who writes regularly for national horse publications. Horse-crazy since childhood, she owns a small farm in north central Florida. She and her Paint Horse gelding, Ben, enjoy regular trail-riding adventures.

Linda Tellington-Jones (www.ttouch.com) is a lifelong horsewoman who’s competed extensively in combined training, hunter/jumper, and dressage events. She’s completed six 100-mile Western States Trail Foundation Tevis Cup endurance rides and held a world record in endurance riding by winning the Jim Shoulders 100. She’s been an official member of the veterinary team for the United States Endurance Team.

A former U.S. Pony Club instructor and an American Horse Show Association judge, as well as a judge and competitor in the North American Trail Ride Conference events, Tellington-Jones was a founding member of the California Dressage Society. She also owned and operated the Pacific Coast School of Horsemanship and Research Farm with then-husband and former classical Cavalry officer Wentworth Tellington.

Question: I have a mare who is about 10 years old. I have had her for almost two years now. Before I had her she went from a show horse to a broodmare and had not been ridden for three to four years. The first year I had her she would take a bit rather easily. It may have taken 15 to 20 minutes to do it, but it always ended in success! Now for some reason we can't get her to take a bit at all. I have had her teeth checked, and they are fine. I have been working with her to lower her head by putting pressure on her poll and rewarding her for doing it. She will lower her head and let me put the bit up to her mouth, but as soon as we attempt to put it in she will raise and throw her head back and forth. What can I do to get her to take the bit?

Answer: Anytime a horse changes from easy to handle, bit, saddle or otherwise interact with, there is a reason. And most of the time, the reason is pain. In some cases an injury or source of pain happens and a habit forms, even if the pain is gone. Issues around bitting also can come from other sources of pain. Some horses hate being ridden because their backs hurt, either from the saddle or another injury. Some horses are confused by the training, or the training techniques are too harsh and cause pain or fear.

Since there was an issue with the bit from the beginning even though it was not a big problem, there may have been something that happened in her past that hurt or scared her. Or, since she was a broodmare, she may not have been trained very well and may have learned that she could get away with fighting the bit.

To solve this problem, the first step is to check your bit. As a bit wears, it is common to find little very sharp burrs around the joints where the side pieces join to the mouthpiece. These may not be big enough to cause a bleeding cut, so you may not see anything. But if you run your fingers along the edges, you could feel a rough or sharp spot. If so, check to see if excessive wear is the problem--if it is, discard the bit. If the bit does not look worn but has a sharp edge, get someone to smooth it out well, then keep an eye on it to be sure it does not come back. Also, check your bit for cleanliness. Many people clean their tack but forget to wash the bit after every ride. The material from the horse's saliva along with bits of grain and grass harden overnight and can form sharp, rough places that the horse feels just as much as it would a sharp piece of metal.

Think about the type of bit and what she needs for control. Do you have too strong a bit? Is the mouthpiece too thick or too thin? Check her mouth or have your veterinarian or horse dentist check the size of her tongue and shape of her palate (roof of her mouth). A horse with a flat palate and a big tongue has no room for a thick mouthpiece and will find it horribly uncomfortable. Another horse with lots of room in his mouth might hate a thin bit and really want a thick bit. Sometimes the metal reacts with the saliva and may taste bad. Try a different metal, plastic or rubber mouthpiece. Many bits are being made with creative shapes to their mouthpieces that are much more comfortable than the traditional snaffle shape. See the Myler Bits website for information, as well as other companies. My personal horse, whom I broke so I know she never had any bad experiences, hated every mouthpiece, metal or plastic until I finally found one metal bit she liked. After years of not voluntarily opening her mouth for the bit, she now takes it happily.

Linda Tellington-Jones has a very useful system of training and retraining horses (see www.ttouch.com). One really great technique from her TTEAM training methods is mouth work, which would be an ideal way to approach your horse. This involves a specific series of touches in and around the mouth. There are many books and videos about the techniques, one of my favorites is TTEAM, Improve your Horse's Wellbeing. Pick one up at your local tack store as well.

Look at the size of your horse

Answer: The issue of bitting can be a complex one. Ultimately the horse does have the final say, since he has to wear it. Since bits are made from metal they can be hard and unforgiving.

The very first thing to check when you have a bitting problem is the teeth. Have you had a good floating job done in the last year? Most horses need about a yearly schedule, but some need it more frequently. A well-done job cannot be accomplished in five or 10 minutes. On the other side the use of power tools to float teeth can and is often overdone, leaving the horse with an unbalanced mouth that can cause problems for a long time while the teeth grow and wear back to normal. Power tools can be very useful, but care needs to be taken. Many dental technicians and veterinarians fail to round off the front of the teeth enough to be comfortable where the bit sits.

Horses who get their tongues over the bit are usually expressing discomfort of some sort. Often that discomfort is from too much pressure on the tongue. Also horses who fuss constantly, stick their tongue out of their mouth and open their mouths are expressing discomfort. Occasionally these habits become so ingrained that the only solution is to remove the bit, but in many cases you can figure out the problem and solve it with a different style mouthpiece. Also, check your noseband. You should be able to slide a couple fingers between the leather and the nose; if you cannot the nosepiece is too tight. If your horse opens its mouth or does any of the other behaviors above, do not tighten the noseband, look for the source of discomfort.

Once you are sure the teeth are not a source of discomfort, then you need to look inside the mouth at the tongue. How big or small does the tongue look? If you open the mouth and see a large tongue leaking over the edges of the teeth, there is little room for a bit, so you will need a thin mouthpiece. A few of those horses will never be comfortable with a bit. If you try to put a thick mouthpiece in this situation often the horse cannot even shut his mouth all the way. The shape of the roof of the horse's mouth (the palate) also helps decide how much room there is for a bit. A flat palate means there is less room, while an arched palate leaves plenty of room.

A horse with a small tongue can handle a thick mouthpiece and may even appreciate it. A thicker mouthpiece can have a gentler edge against the bars, but if there is no room the thicker bit is worse.

The snaffle bit exerts a downward force on the tongue.

Illustration courtesy of Dr. Joyce Harman

Next to consider is the type of mouthpiece. The commonly-used snaffle bit exerts a downward force on the tongue preventing swallowing when rein contact is being taken rather than pushing up into the roof of the mouth as is traditionally believed (see illustration). Obedient horses who can tolerate the tongue pressure will basically keep their heads in the correct "frame" or position for the sport you choose with only minor moves to swallow. Horses ridden with a loose rein will be able to swallow in any bit since there is no pressure on the tongue other than the weight of the bit. Most horses will try to escape the tongue pressure by either putting their noses up in the air or ducking "behind the bit" in order to swallow.

Bits with a port or curved mouthpiece can be much more comfortable and offer relief to the tongue (drawing port bit). Several companies now manufacture bits with creative mouthpieces. Myler was the first to offer a line of bits that really looked at mouth comfort and ability to swallow. Now many other bit companies have curved mouthpieces that relieve tongue pressure. Dr. Hilary Clayton has done a study on the effects of bits on the mouth.

Illustration by Sandy Rabinowitz

The earliest records of metal bits used with horse bridles date from roughly the time between the 14th and eighth centuries BC, which falls within the Bronze and the Iron Ages. These discoveries were made in a region called Luristan, in ancient Mesopotamia, now present day Iran.

Prior to that, and also concurrently used by more primitive tribes than the Luristans, were bridle bits made of vastly diverse materials, such as horn, bone, wood, sinew, rawhide and rope. Naturally, these materials tended to wear out rather quickly and were eventually replaced entirely by metal.

It is quite surprising that metal bits found in Luristan are in principle very much like the bits we use today. They consist of the mouthpiece, usually a single bar without a joint and cheekpieces that were often quite elaborate. The quality of the work suggests that smelting must have been developed to a very high standard.

Judging by the width of the mouthpieces (approximately 5 to 6 inches), the horses must have had rather large and coarse heads, especially considering that the average size of the horses was around 14.2 hands. It is assumed that the riding abilities of the warrior tribes were quite basic. Their main skills were: controlling the speed of the horse, slowing it down and turning. Horses were ridden bareback and therefore their riders must have had superb balance in order to maneuver in battle.

Bas-reliefs as well as paintings of riding and chariot horses in Assyrian and Egyptian tombs and temples show that the same types of bridles and bits were used for many centuries.

The writings of Xenophon, a Greek general who fought in many wars, most notably against the Persians, provided evidence that a more advanced standard of horsemanship emerged around 440 B.C. Not only was Xenophon a great horseman in his own right--his principles of horsemanship form the basis of modern day classical riding--he was also an admirer of the Persians' expertise with horses and the training of their cavalry. His writings also indicate that Greek cavalry horses--especially parade horses--were able to perform movements that closely resemble dressage movements. Along with a higher standard of horsemanship, there were also improvements and modifications made to bridle bits. As the Romans began to conquer the Hellenic world, they also took over their culture of horsemanship, although no Roman records have been found that compare to the writings of Xenophon.

In fact, we know very little of what happened with regard to horsemanship until the Middle Ages (approximately A.D. 476 to A.D. 1450). In the meantime, the average height of horses bred in Central Europe had increased considerably. A horse carrying a knight in full battle armor had to be exceptionally strong and sturdy and was about 16 hands or taller. Consequently, the means of controlling such a horse had to be very effective. Bridles now had bits with high ports and very long shanks that were initially without curb chains. It is unclear when curb chains were introduced. Originally, they may have been made of leather.

In the early Middle Ages, riding skills of the knights were probably rather basic. They galloped towards each other in a formation called a "melee" and tried to wound, kill or topple their opponents off the horse with a lance. Because of his heavy armor, a knight could not remount his horse unless he was heaved back on by several squires. Sometimes, fighting would continue on foot using a sword or battle-ax. Occasionally, battles were decided by a duel of the best knights from each side.

In times of peace, "tournaments" were arranged for the amusement of the king's court as well as for honing the skills of the knights. It is from these tournaments--and out of a desire to show off in front of the ladies--that horsemanship gradually developed to a higher level in the Late Middle Ages (after A.D. 1400). With the advent of firearms, however, medieval Knighthood drastically changed and eventually disappeared.

Until the beginning of the Renaissance (14th through 16th centuries) Xenophon's ideas on horsemanship had been forgotten. Consequently, the level of horsemanship in Western Europe was generally rather low. With the fall of Constantinople (Istanbul) in 1453, circus riders and trick riders from the Near East fled to Italy and settled near the town of Naples. These riders provided the inspiration for an equestrian school there, of which Federico Grisone became one of the best-known proponents 100 years later.

The original remote-control device was a brilliant notion: Suspend a metal bar in the horse's mouth, and use the rigid mouthpiece, via some reins, to control the horse's speed and direction. Brilliant, yes, but far from flawless.

For the 6,000 years or so that man has been opening mouth and inserting bit, horses have not always responded with compliance. Their objections are understandable, considering that the wrong bits or bits in the wrong mouths or in the wrong hands do inflict pain on a very sensitive part of the anatomy. Bitless bridles, which have equally ancient roots, provide an alternative means of influencing the speed and direction of horses without risking oral pain and the resistances that arise from it.

Bit-free headgear--including bosals, mechanical hackamores and sidepulls--is standard in some disciplines, banned in others. But, rules and fashion aside, this gear is applicable to horses in many training situations and in most uses.

Western trainers often rely on bitless bridles to start young horses, but trainers in English disciplines, who longe and work youngsters in halterlike devices, also are bypassing the mouth while instilling basic directional and speed controls. And for stressed-out, injured or overly sensitive working and performance horses (and their riders), hackamores can provide relief, relaxation and renewal.

The benefits of bitless work accrue, however, only if the headgear is appropriate to the individual and his "problem." For bitless bridles, just like bits, operate on a variety of mechanical principles and run the gamut from nearly benign to potentially cruel. They, too, can end up on the wrong horse and in the wrong hands, and when they do, they're just as hurtful as metal in the mouth.

Principles in Practice
"Hackamore," a corruption of the Spanish word jaquima (meaning "bridle"), has come to be a catchall term for just about anything you put on a horse's face that operates on the muzzle instead of the mouth. The true hackamore, known as the bosal (a Spanish term for "noseband"), is as different from the later-arriving mechanical hackamore as apples are from oranges, but both operate on the same general principle of expecting the horse to seek comfort by moving away from pressure. A third type of bitless bridle, often called the sidepull, acts more like the direct reins on a snaffle bit, which are intended to cause the horse to move toward the tension.

Bosals: A bosal is a tubular loop of braided rawhide or other leather that loosely encircles the muzzle and is closed by the heel butt, a knot projecting behind the jaw. The bosal hangs from a simple headstall, which may have an ear slot or a brow band to hold it in place. Sometimes a rope called a fiador connects the heel butt to the poll to limit seesaw movement in the bosal. Reins formed from the mecate--an 18- to 20-foot rope of braided horsehair that is wrapped around the heel butt--are used individually to activate the bosal and apply indirect aids.

The bosal's principal action is irritation that causes the horse to move away from contact and toward the desired posture, speed or direction. When a well-fitted bosal rests lightly on the horse's face with the heel knot balanced below the lower jaw, the signals are neutral, and the horse is comfortable. As movements of the mecate change the bosal's position, the horse adjusts his head carriage or forward motion to maintain that comfortably neutral relationship.

With the heavy mecate attached behind the chin, lifting of one rein raises the heel butt slightly to one side and causes the bosal to pivot on the headstall. The back of the bosal rubs up against the lower jawbone, and the nosepiece shifts downward to pressure the cartilage above the nostrils, encouraging the horse to seek neutrality and comfort by flexing his poll and turning his head in the direction opposite the signaling rein. Intermittent pressure and release, rather than a continual pull, "bump" the horse's nose and squeeze his cheeks to slow or halt him.

The mecate is intentionally stiff and prickly to accentuate its friction on the neck, making the horse attentive to the slightest rein movement. Not only does this contact signal the horse to reposition his head even as the bosal pivots and the heel butt rises, but it also encourages the horse to neck-rein to escape the irritation.

In the September 2006 issue of Horse & Rider, magazine Bob Avila shares his wisdom on bits ("Bob Avila's Winning Insights: Bits From Start to Finish"). Whether you're looking for a bit for a green horse or a veteran campaigner, you want to be sure you're selecting the right size for your horse's mouth. If your snaffle bit's mouthpiece is too wide or too narrow for your horse's mouth, the bit can't do its job effectively. Here's how to make a tool to measure the width of your horse's mouth--and how to use it as a guide to proper bit fit.

(Note: The measurement you get from this method isn't absolute, it's simply a guide to help you pick the correct mouthpiece for your horse. Standard width is 5 inches. Generally, horses with small muzzles and jaws wear a 4 1/2-inch mouthpiece, as a 5-inch model may look sloppy. Horses with larger muzzles and jaws are usually more comfortable in 5 1/2- or 6-inch mouthpieces, so the bit won't fit the corners of their mouths.)

You'll Need:
An 8-inch section of 1/2-inch hose; a ruler; a pocketknife or leather punch; two rolls of different-colored, 1/2-inch wide electrical tape (we'll use red and yellow for ease of description); two split key rings; a lightweight headstall; two swivel snaps (optional).

Making the Measuring Tool
1. Using the ruler, mark points 1/2, 1, and 1 1/2 inches from each hose end. (The space between the two 1 1/2-inch marks should be 5 inches.)

2. Wrap a strip of red tape between the 1/2- and 1 inch marks at each end. Then wrap a strip of yellow tape between the 1- and 1 1/2-inch marks. Looking at the hose from left to right, you'll see 1/2-inch of bare hose, then a red piece of tape, then a yellow piece, then 5 inches of bare hose, followed by yellow tape, red tape and 1/2-inch of bare hose.

3. Using a pocketknife or leather punch, pierce a small hole in the hose end about 1/4-inch from each end. Then thread a split key ring through each hole.

4. Secure the rings to your headstall's cheekpieces, as though you're putting on a bit. Or, fasten swivel snaps to your headstall's cheekpieces. Then clasp the snaps to the key rings. (The latter is a bit faster.)

Mouth Measuring
1. To measure the width of your horse's mouth, bridle him with the measuring tool attached to the headstall, placing the hose in his mouth just like a bit. (Note: adjust your headstall so that the hose lies flat in your horse's mouth.)

2. The colored tape markers with tell you at a glance what size mouthpiece your horse needs. If the corners of his mouth are within the standard 5-inch width (the corners of his mouth are within the bare hose area) a 5-inch mouthpiece may be fine. However, when it comes to snaffle mouthpieces, wider is often better. Try a 5 1/2-inch mouthpiece; you may find him more comfortable and responsive.

3. If there's a gap of 1 inch or more between the corners of his mouth and the edge of the yellow tape marker, try a 4 1/2- inch or 5-inch mouthpiece.

4. On the other hand, if the corners of his mouth spread on to the yellow tape marker, opt for a 5 1/2-inch mouthpiece.

5. If his mouth spreads on to the red (or farthest) tape marker, a 6-inch mouthpiece may be best.

Suzanne Vlietstra is president of Hobby Horse Clothing Company, Inc., in Chino, Calif.