Take time to wash and repair blankets before storing them. Photo © EQUUS magazine. All Rights Reserved.

When the spring weather finally comes, you may be anxious to quickly stow the winter gear so that you can get on with enjoying the sunshine with your horses. But if you take the time to clean your turnout blankets thoroughly and store them away carefully, you’ll extend their useful life--and you’ll thank yourself when it’s time to get them back out this fall. Follow these steps to keep stored blankets in good shape.

1. Wash them well. A quick spray-down with the hose may be enough to clean lightly soiled blankets, but for the best results, take them to a laundromat. (Before you go, be sure to ask whether they will allow horse items in their machines.) Run the rinse cycle twice to ensure no detergent residue is left behind.

2. Dry thoroughly. Hang the blankets in the sun until they are completely dry; this could take a day or more for heavier items. Storing them while they’re still damp can lead to mold.

3. Repair or replace, as needed. Examine all the fabric, stitching and hardware for loose connections, wear and holes. Have any repairs done now; waiting until the fall can leave you short of time as the cold weather approaches. Spring is also a good time to buy replacement blankets, if needed. You may catch a good sale, and you won’t have to rush to find one later.

4. Store them securely. Fold the blankets neatly and place them inside large plastic bags, then stack them in a dry place. To provide even more security against nesting rodents, store your blankets in clean trash cans or storage bins with lockable lids.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

Contemporary competition coats, shirts and breeches for all disciplines increasingly are being designed like athletic wear, using the latest construction techniques and high-tech fabrics that stretch, wick and breathe while allowing full range of motion in the saddle. At the same time, manufacturers have added mainstream fashion details, like contrast trim and frilly necklines with a little color or sparkle, to give you a stylish alternative without straying too far from tradition.

Then there are the functional design features, including flattering seams and color blocking, hidden zippers, magnetic closures and longer shirttails, that give you

a professional, custom-tailored appearance without breaking your budget.

Check out these new styles of show shirts in addition to 36 more competition separates in the April 2013 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.

The Ariat Terrain H20

Ariat International, Inc., designed the Ariat Terrain leather boots with endurance riders in mind.

Photo by Heidi Melocco

Description: Ariat International, Inc., designed the Ariat Terrain leather boots with endurance riders in mind, incorporating its ATS technology for fatigue-reducing support and cushion, plus its Duratread outsole for durability and flexibility. The manufacturer says the boots’ outsoles will last up to four times longer than traditional rubber outsoles, and are highly resistant to manure and acidic waste. The Ariat Terrain is available in copper, in women’s half sizes 5.5-10 and 11, in medium and wide widths; and men’s half sizes 7-12 and 13, in medium and wide widths.

Test results: These boots felt broken in from the start. The leather and outsole alike were sturdy, yet flexible. There was plenty of cushion under my foot, and I really liked the arch support provided by the orthotics built into the footbed.

These are attractive boots, and I had no qualms wearing them with a pair of jeans for a day at the office. My feet were still feeling good when I went riding that evening. I found that the soles gave me plenty of grip in the stirrup and even a little extra spring under the ball of my foot ─ an unexpected bonus that’s probably attributable to the gel pad in the boot’s forefoot.

Another day, I hiked with the boots on one of my favorite trails. The boots don’t have particularly deep treads, yet they managed the rocks, mud, and differing grades quite well.

The boot shaft comes up just to the top of my ankle bone, providing support. The boot was stable, even on loose footing and rocks.

These boots feature waterproof leather, a waterproof membrane lining, and seam-sealed construction. So I was glad, if hardly surprised, to find that I could wade in the creek all I wanted without feeling a drop of moisture on my feet.

All in all, I found these boots to be enjoyable to spend the day in—on the trail, around the barn, and even around the office.

Contact: www.ariat.com

The Justin Chukka

The Justin Chukka from Justin Boots comes up a little higher on the leg than a traditional chukka, stopping just above the ankle bone.

Photo by Heidi Melocco

Description: The Justin Chukka from Justin Boots features a removable EVA orthotic insert for cushioning and a thermal-plastic rubber outsole. It comes up a little higher on the leg than a traditional chukka, stopping just above the ankle bone.

While a traditional style calls for two eyelets and a low to no heel, this one adds two hooks above the bottom eyelets, a third eyelet at the top of the ankle, and a slightly more substantial heel for security in the stirrups. The chukka is available in a variety of colors, in women’s sizes 4-10, in medium width; and men’s sizes 6-11, 12, and 13 in medium width.

Test results: When you think of a chukka, you think of a loafer-type ankle boot. True to that spirit, these boots felt almost like slippers when I pulled them on. The footbed is soft and spacious ─ it reminded me a little of a flannel-lined moccasin. The leather is likewise soft and supple, with no break-in period required.

For my tastes, the boots seemed a little “grippy” around the ankle when laced snugly, but that’s just personal preference ─ some people would appreciate that trait, and the boot did stay securely in place.

Compared to other hiking and riding boots, these are a style apart. They have a much more urban look and would be perfectly at home with jeans, khakis, and other casual wear. You could easily wear them out on the town without anyone knowing you’ve just been (or are on your way to) the barn.

I love the leather laces, which add a little rustic feel and also stay tightly tied ─ while I often have to double-knot boot laces to keep them from coming undone while riding or hiking, these stayed snug with a single knot.

The boots have a lot of tread, another trait that sets them apart from the usual chukka, but that’s appropriate for hitting the trail horseback or on foot. They had sufficient grip in the stirrup, although I wouldn’t mind just a bit more. However, they surprised me when I hit the trail on foot by providing more traction in slippery spots than I’d expected.

The boots maintained their slipper-like comfort in active use, but the thick outsole protected my foot well enough from rocks and roots.

A note of caution: The manufacturer doesn’t claim that these boots are waterproof ─ and they aren’t. They’ll handle mud, wet grass, and a shallow puddle, but I wouldn’t push them past that if you want to keep your feet dry.

Nonetheless, if you’re looking for comfortable riding and walking boots with some uptown style, these would easily fill the bill.

Contact: www.justinboots.com

Roper Original Horseshoe

Roper Original Horseshoes, from Roper Footwear & Apparel, are “shoe boots” that reach right to the ankle.

Photo by Heidi Melocco

Description: Roper Original Horseshoes, from Roper Footwear & Apparel, are “shoe boots” that reach right to the ankle. They have just enough heel (9/16-inch) for safety in the saddle and a nonmarking outsole. Their comfort features include a soft-support inner sole, and molded foam supports at the ball, toe and heel. In addition, they boast a forged steel shank for support and stability. Roper Horseshoes are available in four shades of brown, with or without removable kiltie, in women’s sizes 5-11 and men’s sizes 7-14.

Test results: Ever since Roper came out with its first Horseshoe, I’ve thought this was a fun, versatile take on riding-appropriate footwear. They’re a little bit tennis shoe, a little bit lace-up roper, and a little bit casual hiker. Add the kiltie, and you add some subtle Western attitude, too. (Plus, I love that each pair comes with three interchangeable sets of kilties.)

Like many all-leather boots, these were a little stiff on Day 1, which I particularly felt at the toe break-over and around my ankle. With a little wear, I’m sure these they’ll supple up, though.

Even from the start, the boots had a nicely cushioned footbed, and each pair

comes with an additional set of insoles, in case you need a snugger fit or additional cushioning. The size 8 pair I wore fit well without the additional insoles, so I didn’t test those.

I enjoyed riding in these boots. They provided good stability in the stirrup and never interfered with my aids.

On the ground, they didn’t have enough traction to handle a muddy slope nor as much structure as you’d get from a true hiking boot. But they handled basic terrain challenges ─ such as uneven grades and loose footing ─ just fine and stayed comfortable on my feet even on hard surfaces, like concrete and packed dirt.

These are nice-looking boots that would match well with a variety of casual wear. I’d enjoy wearing them for riding and barn chores, or around the campsite and on walks. And I’d feel totally at ease keeping them on to meet up with friends for lunch on the town and an afternoon of shopping.

Contact: www.eroper.com

Your horse is well equipped for cold weather. With a thick winter coat, he has all he needs to stay warm in freezing temperatures. You, however, will need a bit more help to fend off the cold. Consider these points when dressing for barn chores or riding this winter:

Layers are key. Even if you start out feeling cold, mucking stalls or an active ride can increase your body temperature quickly. If you overheat and sweat, you’ll be at risk for a chill later. Dress in layers that can be easily removed as necessary to stay warm without sweating. Remember, you won’t be able to pull a sweatshirt over your head while wearing a helmet, so stick with tops that zip or button up in front.

Fabric matters. For your base layers, choose materials that are designed to wick moisture away from your body. This keeps your skin warm, dry and comfortable. The material as well as the weave contribute to wicking, and most activewear sold today has this capacity. For the outer layers, look for fabrics that keep you warm but “breathe” to release moisture if necessary.

Treat your feet. Wear warm but thin socks that allow enough “wiggle room” for normal circulation. Silk sock liners worn under regular socks can add warmth without bulk. Waterproof or water-resistant boots are important. Remember that it’s hard to keep your feet warm when they’re settled in stirrups for long periods of time, so consider splurging on a set of cold-weather riding boots if you’ll be riding in freezing conditions.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #424.

If you trail ride, consider adding a breastcollar and back cinch to secure your saddle. Even if your saddle fits your horse well, hills and extreme terrain can cause saddle slippage, which creates discomfort for your horse at best and a dangerous situation at worst.

Watch the video for important breastcollar and back-cinch attachment and fitting tips from the Certified Horsemanship Association, as explained by Brent Morgan, CHA president.

Here are a few highlights:

• Order of attachment: First, secure the front cinch, as you’ll be attaching the breastcollar and back cinch to its rings. Then fasten the back cinch to the front cinch with the connecting strap. Finally, attach the breastcollar to the front cinch and to your saddle’s front D-rings. When you untack, you’ll do this in reverse; you’ll undo the breastcollar, then the back cinch, then the front cinch.
• Breastcollar attachment: Leave the right shoulder strap attached to the saddle, for efficiency. After you saddle up and secure the front cinch, attach the breastcollar’s left shoulder strap, then the center strap. As you do, don’t duck under your horse’s neck; keep your head well away from your horse’s hooves.
• Breastcollar fit: Place your fist under the point where the breastcollar three straps come together at the center of your horse’s chest. If you’re unable to fit your entire fist underneath the leather, loosen the adjustment.

Next, check the fit of the left and right shoulder pieces. They should fit closely, but not tightly. Your horse needs freedom of shoulder movement, especially as he negotiates hills. You also don’t want the leather to rub and abrade your horse’s hair and skin.

Finally, make sure the breastcollar is adjusted so that the right and left sides are even.

• Back-cinch attachment: Buckle the back cinch, then simply snap its connecting strap to the front cinch. Again, keep your head up, away from your horse’s hooves.
• Back-cinch fit: Check fit by slipping two fingers under the cinch at the apex of your horse’s belly. If it’s too tight, it could turn into a bucking strap. If it’s too loose, your horse could catch his hoof in it. Also, branches could get caught between the cinch and your horse’s belly, creating discomfort and potentially causing a wreck, should your horse spook.

And of course, if the back cinch is too loose, it won’t optimally secure your  saddle.

Click here for a video from the Certified Horsemanship Association showing how to attach and adjust a breastcollar and back cinch.

Description:

The fullseat area is made from polyurethane polyester that mimics suede and grips the saddle for a secure feel. The material allows air to flow, is lightweight, and stretches for a custom fit. Available in Black, Tan, and Moka. Sizes range from XS to 2XL.

The tester: Colorado horsewoman Heidi Melocco, long-time riding instructor and seasoned equine journalist.

Test results: I tested the breeches during the first snowfall of the season. The breeches were comfortable as soon as I put them on. I liked the stretch, the way the waistband lay flat against my stomach, and the way the inside fleece felt soft and warm against my legs.

The outer fabric was put to the test indoors and out. Inside, I tested the fabric by pouring an entire glass of ice water over the knee; the water rolled off without even beading. I could feel a slight change in temperature on my leg, but my skin was dry. Outside, the breeches kept me warm as sleet fell.

The fullseat material is more gripping than leather, and felt secure against the saddle leather. It wasn’t too bulky or heavy when walking about.

The outer fabric didn’t latch onto dog or horsehair. I have a red merle Aussie with tons of white on her and I’m always embarrassed to look like a fur ball before I even get to the barn. The dog hair usually sticks to everything, but it was easy to brush off of these riding pants.

Overall, I liked the fit — the wide band at the top helped the breeches keep their shape and feel secure, and the material was thick enough to smooth over hips and curves. The belt loops allow you to dress up your look. The fabric’s check pattern makes the pants identifiable and fashionable, but is subtle enough to wear with most any top.

I often ride Western, but I like these breeches as a warm and more gripping alternative to denim. They were long enough to fit down into both my Western boots and paddock boots with half-chaps.
Cost: $129.

Stable Blanket
Amigo Stable Blankets, by Horseware Ireland, are designed to keep your horse cozy and warm while in the barn. The Amigo one-piece insulator provides full body comfort with a 210D rip-stop outershell, and your choice of a 200g or 350g fill. Other features include straight front closures, two criss-cross belly surcingles, and a tail cord to keep the blanket in place. Sizes 66 to 84 inches. Cost: $139.00.

Heated Saddle Pad
The battery-heated CozyPad from CozyRides sits atop your saddle to provide warmth for up to 11 hours on those cold winter trails; with five temperature settings, you can fine-tune your comfort level. The waterproof heating pads inside make the pad safe even in damp conditions and it won’t damage your saddle. Made from washable fleece material. The rechargeable battery sits securely behind the cantle. Available for both Western and English saddles. Cost: $89.

Winter Riding Boots
Keep your feet — and legs — dry and warm even in soggy winter conditions: The Mountain Horse Rimrock High Rider Winter Boots from English Riding Supply feature a solid, waterproof foot with removable faux-fur insole and water-repellent leg shaft made of soft, flexible nylon and a warm, faux-fur lining. The adjustable hook-and-loop closure at the back of the leg shaft helps you customize your fit; reflective inserts on the back of the foot aid nighttime visibility. Dirt-repellent tread zones on the boots’ soles help prevent slippage in the stirrup. Available in youth and ladies sizes. Cost: $88.75 (youth); $99.95 (ladies).

Insulated Riding Gloves
Made from sheepskin leather and lined with stretch fleece, these Insulated Pro Grip gloves from Ariat International, Inc., keep fingers toasty when the mercury drops. A water-resistant finish helps you stay protected in dry or damp conditions, while a ribbed cuff adds to comfort while retaining heat. Cost: From $44.95.

a) Miller Ranch Fine Line Twill, with a large plaid design and custom logo buttons, $98, millerranch1918.com b) Distressed, Sherpa-lined open-bottom zip-front Cripple Creek leather jacket, $199, cripplecreek.com c) Greeley Hat Works competitor-quality with a 4 1/2-inch cattleman crown in saddle with chocolate self band, starting at $425, greeleyhatworks.com d) Fully-tooled custom belt designed and made by cowboy musician and artist Austin Wahlert of AW Leather in Greeley, Colo., $225, austinwahlert.com e) Saddleback Leather Co. large thin briefcase in chestnut, complete with 100-year warranty and no breakable parts, $423, saddlebackleather.com f) Vogt Laredo Star buckle set in hand-engraved, antiqued solid sterling silver with 14-karat gold fill on stars with unconditional lifetime guarantee, $674, vogtsilversmiths.com g) Mid-rise, relaxed-fit Cinch Denton Jeans in a clean, dark rinse with copper hardware, $65, cinchjeans.com h) Saddleback Leather Co. medium bi-fold wallet in dark coffee brown with tough pigskin lining, $45 i) Antique tri-tone lizard Tony Lama San Saba Collection boots, $350, tonylama.com j) Smooth scarred russet leather Vogt iPad cover with saddle-leather corners, $249

a) Toolin’ Around Charlie 1 Horse 3X black felt with hand-tooled leather pieces beneath the brim and matching band, $240, charlie1horsehats.com b) Cripple Creek top-stitched and studded zip-front leather jacket with Indian motif, $400, cripplecreek.com c) Musketeer-inspired high-arched topline Murrietta boots from Ariat with slim, full-grain leather shaft and ATS footbed technology, $300, ariat.com d) Double J Saddlery 3-inch black snake-print belt with black chap leather and antique silver dome conchos and engraved dots, $300, doublejsaddlery.com e) New Dear John joyrich skinny jeans in blue shadow wash, $80, dearjohndenim.com f) Antique chocolate brown Corral stitched and studs purse, $196, corralboots.com g) Visible Faith Chosen By Him sterling silver and leather necklace, $435, I Am Blessed bracelet made by artist Shandon Camarillo-Whitson, $425, Full of Blessings chandelier earrings, $160, graceyoursoul.com h) Ryan Michael LA Cowgirl super-soft, 100-percent cotton shirt in butternut with horn snaps, $112, ryanmichael.com

a) Roper down-fill jacket in plaid print with exposed zipper pockets, $148, eroper.com b) Durango Gambler boots with 12-inch shaft and medium square toe, $150, durangoboot.com c) Paisley snap shirt with contrasting inside cuff from Roper, $49 d) Small hunters case pocket watch with fully engraved, bright-cut silver inlay from Montana Silversmiths’ Montana Time, $90, montanasilversmiths.com e) Resistol 20X Tarrant silverbelly fur felt hat with a 3-piece silver buckle and an open crown, ready to shape to fit your style, $468, nrsworld.com f) Brown distressed leather Double J Saddlery belt with 1 1/2-inch copper and antique silver spur rowel conchos and large antique copper dots, $350, doublejsaddlery.com g) Bi-fold wallet clip, hand-tooled in American saddle leather by Vogt Silversmiths, small enough to fit in a front pocket, $84, vogtsilversmiths.com h) Rock&Roll Cowboy double-barrel embroidery, relaxed-fit, boot-cut jean with heavy bean stitch, $78, pslim.com i) Wild West Collection Gist Silversmiths buckle made from silver and gold electroplate, starting at $100, gistsilversmiths.com

a) Custom, fully-tooled bible cover from AW Leather, complete with monogram, $175, austinwahlert.com b) 5-strand turquoise, orange, fuschia, and neon green Gypsy Soule bead necklace, $50, gypsysoule.com c) Dear John denim jacket in iris wash, $90, dearjohndenim.com d) Nailhead bootcut low-rise Rock&Roll Cowgirl jeans, $100, pslim.com e) Gypsy Soule white and neon yellow baseball tee with rebel heart, $48 f) Corral black and gray python crystal cross boot, $400, corralboots.com g) Set of 13 neon and silver bracelets from Gypsy Soule, $40 h) Stone Gypsy Soule  “Don’t Walk In Fear” cadet cap with adjustable back, $20

a) HOOey thermal, $40, getyourhooey.com b) George Strait Cowboy Cut Collection by Wrangler 1 1/2-inch hand-tooled belt, $59, wranglerwestern.com c) Flexfit HOOey cap, $30 d) 4X fur felt Resistol Midnight with self-band and 3-piece buckle, shown in buckskin, $118, nrsworld.com e) 720 RangeTek Catamount vest with a nylon shell for wind and water resistance and -30 below insulation from Schaefer Ranchwear, $170, schaefer-ranchwear.com
f) Honey Crazy Horse boots from Horsepower by Anderson Bean, with zig-zag white stitching, a hard-rubber sole so it doesn’t stick in stirrups, and 13-inch tops, $218, andersonbean.com g) Cactus Saddlery handmade, floral-tooled spur straps, $36, cactussaddlery.com h) Tom Balding brown tuxedo stainless steel, browned steel, and sterling silver spurs, handcrafted in Sheridan, Wyo., $800, tombalding.com i) Wrangler 20X Competition Jean Style #01 with heavyweight denim and extra relaxed seat and thigh, $55, wranglerwestern.com j) On the Go Rope Bag by Cactus Ropes, with two backpack-style straps and two carrying handles, $67, cactusropes.com k) Cactus Ropes Nitro 4-strand, 31-foot head rope, $43 l) Cactus Ropes Ultra Roping Gloves, sold in packs of 12, $17

a) Cowgirl Tuff Co. black micro-fiber coat with embroidered logo and slogan, “Never Give Up,” $149, cowgirltuff.com b) Cruel red plaid snap shirt, with a heavy top stitch, fancy yokes and dye-to-match pearl snaps, $50, crueldenim.com c) Custom Catalena Hatters 10X black felt hat with top-hand crease, $200, catalenahats.com d) Hand-crafted 9-stone multi-ranch Mad Cow Company roper spur with cuff catcher, $190, madcowcompany.com e) Classic Leather Designs spur straps, $72, classicleatherdesigns.com f) Medium-wash Cowgirl Tuff Co. Lacy Cream jean, with light distressing, lace fabric on back pockets, crystal rivets, and thick white stitching, $100 g) 11-inch Nocona boots from the company’s Ladies Legacy Collection, with turquoise tops and tan vintage cowhide foot, $210, nocona.com h) Vogt hand-engraved, solid sterling spur earrings with spinning rowels and hypoallergenic, stainless steel posts, $114, vogtsilversmiths.com

Like the lightweight sweatshirt in your gym bag, a cooler is a useful part of a working horse’s winter wardrobe. Made from warm but breathable materials, coolers control the rate at which a hot horse cools down, reducing the risk of chills. Most coolers do this in three ways:
• by wicking moisture away from the horse’s skin and onto the fabric’s outer surface, where it evaporates.
• by blocking the wind, which will literally blow away the heat produced by the horse’s body.
• by trapping and retaining warmth between the fibers of the fabric to act as insulation.

To get the greatest benefit from a cooler, toss it over your hot, sweaty horse and walk him until his pulse and respiration rates return to normal. Then, keep him in a draft-free area, with the cooler on, until his skin feels warm---not hot---to the touch. But be watchful while he is wearing a cooler: Some do not secure as well as regular blankets, which makes it easier for a horse to become tangled.

When your horse’s coat is mostly dry and his skin feels nearly normal in temperature, you can put on his regular blanket and call it a day.

I've been in this business for decades. I've tried every gimmicky bit out there. For the first week, I'll put it on every horse in my barn. After that it'll hang in my tack room, collecting dust for the next 20 years.

Why? Because I find that I always go back to the same tried-and-true bits. The four I'll talk about here are some of the best bits I know of. That's why they're so popular with me, and with other horsemen. They work. Horses love them. And they don't "trick" the horse.

That’s the problem with most gimmicks: Your horse may fall for the trick when he’s wearing that bit, but the instant you put a show-legal bit without the trick on him, he’s smart enough to know it. And that can lead to problems in the show pen.

Note: While one of the following bits isn’t show-legal, it complements the action and feel of its show-legal cousin, which is why I included it.

Bit #1: Show Snaffle

Bit #1: Show Snaffle
The specs: A smooth-mouth, show-legal O-ring snaffle, with a narrow-diameter and sweet-iron mouthpiece. (The leather strap around the rings keeps them in position.) As you can see, it’s totally gimmick-free.

Why it works: The tapered mouthpiece makes it a touch less mild than a larger-diameter mouthpiece, so you get a tad more feel and control without hurting or scaring your horse. Independent movement of the rings and mouthpiece causes the mouthpiece to vibrate with the slightest rein movement, which can help keep a horse soft, light, and responsive.

Training stage: Use this as a step up from a smooth-mouth snaffle with a fatter mouthpiece (which is what I start my youngsters in). If a horse stays soft and responsive in it, I’ll use it in his training and in the show pen until he's ready to graduate to a leverage bit.

Problems it can solve: It can lighten up a horse that's dull to, and trying to push through, a milder snaffle.

Bit #2: Half-and-Half Training Snaffle

Bit #2: Half-and-Half Training Snaffle
The specs: An O-ring training (not show-legal) snaffle with a sweet-iron mouthpiece that’s half smooth, half twisted wire, hence the name.

Why it works: The smooth portion, which lies on the bars of your horse’s mouth, won’t damage them. The twisted-wire portion, which lies over the horse’s tongue, gives the bit more “bite” than a smooth-mouth snaffle. Plus, for reasons I can’t explain, 100 percent of my horses love this bit. That’s rare, so it’s reason enough for me to love it, too.

Training stage: I generally don’t use this bit in the first six months of a young horse’s training. After that, it’s useful for tuning one up before a show, because it complements the action of Bit #1.

Problems it can solve: It can lighten up a horse that’s getting dull or slow to respond in a show snaffle. The additional feel and lightness you get from this bit transfers well to that show-legal one. Note: This bit is only for experienced riders. In the wrong hands, it’ll cause more problems than it’ll solve.

Bit #2: Half-and-Half Training Snaffle

Bit #3: ‘Short-Shank’ Snaffle
The specs: The smooth, single-jointed, sweet-iron mouth-piece has copper inlays (to encourage salivation; a wet mouth is a more relaxed mouth). The mouthpiece attaches via a pinch-reducing, stainless-steel sleeve to short, stainless-steel shanks, which provide mild leverage. (The shanks’ swept-back design delays the bit’s action more than straighter shanks would.) It’s show-legal.

Why it works: The mouthpiece is similar to a basic smooth-mouth, colt-starting snaffle, and to Bit #1, making it a great transition bit—it feels so familiar that horses don’t even realize they’re taking a step up the bit ladder. Ring attachments directly behind the mouthpiece offer the option of attaching a second set of reins there for true snaffle (nonleverage) action through the transition from snaffle to leverage bit, making it more gradual. This is another gimmick-free bit that horses just love.

Training stage: Generally, late 3-year-olds, as a transition from snaffle to leverage. I only graduate a youngster to it when he’s doing everything I ask of him in a snaffle, such as circles, stops, lead changes, and steering one-handed. It’s also a great bit for older horses that work well in a mild mouthpiece.

Problems it can solve: I see it as more of a stepping stone than a problem solver.

Bit #4: Training Correctional

Bit #4: Training Correctional
The specs: The term “correctional” refers to the loose-jointed, U-shaped swivel mouthpiece rather than its use; this isn’t a severe bit. The low port supplies tongue relief; the short (stainless-steel) shank length adds to the bit’s mild nature. Copper overlay on the bars encourages salivation. Rounded joints on all moving parts prevent pinching. It’s show-legal.

Why it works: This design is the greatest invention since the hamburger. Seriously. It’s broken at both shanks and on the port, which gives it a familiar, snaffle-like feel to a young horse. That movement also takes some of the “pull” out of it before it engages in your horse’s mouth. That means you can use subtle rein pressure to engage the bit, making for a light feel. Plus, the design enables you to engage either side independently, just as you can with a snaffle. And, it’s lightweight, so is comfortable to a youngster (but it’s not so light that it’ll bounce around in his mouth, which could scare him).

Training stage: I use this bit and the show snaffle more than any other bits in my barn. It’s a great step-up bit when your horse is ready to graduate from a snaffle mouthpiece to slightly more leverage (the shanks on the correctional are a tad longer than those on Bit #3). It’s like taking a toddler from diapers to pull-up training pants. I use it on 3- and 4-year-olds...and I’ve shown world champions in it. It’s a great gimmick-free, horse-friendly bit.

Problems it can solve: As with Bit #3, I see this as more of a transition bit than a problem solver. However, it’s a good bit for a horse that doesn’t work well in a milder mouthpiece, but is intimidated by one with more leverage, such as those I’ll be showing you in Part II.