Your horse doesn’t care whether his saddle pad is Stone Age or Space Age, or whether it costs $30 or $300. He just wants to be comfortable and to have a horse saddle pad that prevents back soreness in horses. Here, we give you six ways to enhance saddle-pad comfort.

1. Use one saddle pad. It’s best to use one pad, and the thinnest pad possible. Stacked pads will first lift the saddle too high. Then, as the pads compress, they’ll create painful pressure points on your horse’s back by the end of the ride. On your ride, the pads will likely slip and slide, compromising stability and painfully rubbing against your horse’s skin.  Using one saddle pad is important to prevent back soreness in horses.

2. Find the right size. Your pad needs to be the right size, shape, and thickness. A pad that’s too short or too long, too thick or too thin, or shaped to lie along a straight fence rail rather than a horse’s back will not prevent back soreness in horses. If your horse has distinct withers, a pad that’s cut straight along the spine will create painful wither pressure.  Again, it is important that the saddle is the right size otherwise it will result in a sore back.

3. Match the contours. A good-fitting, comfortable pad will have contours that correspond to the contours of your horse’s back and your saddle’s underside so it won’t put pressure on your horse’s withers or spine. It’ll extend past the edge of the saddle, all the way around — but, like a good saddle, it won’t extend past your horse’s last rib. If it’s too long, it’ll likely rub and press against your horse’s hips. And, if it’s a heavy or stiff saddle pad, your horse’s hind legs will push pad and saddle forward.

4. Watch saddle fit. Be careful when attempting to use a pad to improve saddle fit. If your saddle is too narrow, no pad will help — you need a different saddle. The same is true if your saddle is too long or too wide for your horse, if the angle of the bars (the part of the Western tree that lie along either side of your horse’s spine) or the points (the ends of the pommel arch at the front of an English tree) don’t match your horse’s shoulder angles, or if your saddle’s underside doesn’t match your horse’s back profile.

If your saddle is too wide for your horse, pads can help improve the fit temporarily. This can be helpful if you’re building up an unfit horse that will have a wider back in a few months, when he muscles up. If your horse is unevenly developed, a customizable pad with shims or a comfort system may help you even out the saddle fit and make your horse more comfortable.

5. Alleviate pressure. When you place your saddle on the pad, always pull the front of the pad straight up, away from your horse’s withers and into the front of the saddle. If the pad lies flat, saddle pressure will cause rubbing and will interfere with your horse’s movement.

6. Adjust to change. Since your horse’s back is always changing, your saddle pad may need to change too. Even if your saddle fits well, you may need several different types and thicknesses of pads at different times of year — for instance, when your horse is soft and fat after a winter without work, when he’s losing fat and beginning spring workouts, and when he’s building up bigger, stronger muscles after a few months of work.

Jessica Jahiel, PhD, is an internationally recognized clinician and lecturer, and an award-winning author of books on horses, riding, and training. Her e-mail newsletter, Horse Sense, is a popular worldwide resource.

Saddle Check

Photo by Cappy Jackson

Lynn Palm’s equine partners are Rugged Painted Lark, a 9-year-old Paint stallion (Western tack) and Lark’s Painted Dinero, a 5-year-old Paint stallion (English tack).

Checkpoint #1: Saddle
Saddle fit/placement. Be sure your saddle fits your horse. If the tree is too narrow, the saddle can slip back, putting painful pressure on your horse’s lower back and loins which can cause serious horse problems later on.  A host of physical problems can be caused by an improperly fitting saddle. Consult with a saddle-fit expert if you have any doubts a particular saddle is a good fit for your horse.  An improper saddle fit will cause horse problems that could later result in more serious issues.

Surprisingly, many riders unknowingly place their saddle too far forward on their horses’ backs. When this happens, your horse’s scapula (shoulder blade) actually hits the saddle tree as he strides out. To avoid pain, he compromises his stride; this unnatural, altered stride causes him to land harder than usual, putting more pressure on his feet, joints, and muscles.

Also, the under-panels of a too-far-forward saddle don’t come in contact with your horse’s back. Instead, your saddle bridges, meaning that it touches only his withers and lower back. This creates undue pressure on these areas, rather than distributing your weight uniformly.

Cinch/girth. For schooling, Palm suggests using a neoprene or leather cinch or girth, which is easy to clean and disinfect — an important point if you use your tack interchangeably on different horses. “I really like a neoprene girth, but you have to be cautious, because you can get one overly tight,” she says. “On long rides, particularly when it’s hot, I always use a leather girth. I don’t like to have rubber against my horse’s skin, especially in tender places, such as the girth area or on the back. Neoprene can irritate the skin, because it doesn’t breathe.”

If you ride with a back cinch or girth, you shouldn’t be able to see a noticeable gap of daylight between the cinch/girth and your horse’s belly. A loose back cinch is asking for an accident to happen.

When tacking up, tighten the cinch or girth at least twice. After the first time, leave the stirrup hooked on a Western saddle horn, or English irons run up the leather. This will remind you to tighten the cinch or girth once more before mounting.

Safety check. Before every ride, turn your saddle upside down and give it a quick visual inspection. Pay close attention to places where hardware connects with leather, looking for cracks or signs of wear. Inspect the billets and buckles on an English saddle and the latigo on a Western saddle. If you find any cracks in a leather latigo, replace it immediately. A nylon latigo will last longer than leather, but be careful you don’t overtighten it when cinching up.

English Saddle Pad

Photo by Cappy Jackson

Checkpoint #2: Saddle Pad
Pad type. A wool saddle pad is ideal, as it conforms to your horse’s back, wicks away sweat, and is long-wearing. Look for a wool pad that’s one inch thick. Avoid a synthetic-fleece pad, which lacks the moisture-wicking properties of wool.

A single Navajo-type blanket isn’t typically thick enough for your horse’s comfort; add another pad or blanket underneath. Square cotton blankets and half pads are popular among English riders. Palm personally likes Professional’s Choice SMx Air-Ride pads, in both Western and all-around styles. These pads conform both to your saddle and your horse’s back.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking “the thicker the better,” as too many pads will cause a barrel effect, which causes the saddle to shift; this, in turn, can sore your horse’s back. You can’t make a saddle fit better by adding pads. If a saddle doesn’t fit properly, no pad can correct the problem. Be sure your pad is large enough for your saddle. There should be a minimum of one inch of pad showing around all edges of the saddle.

Tack-up tip. Whenever you tack up, pull the front of your pad or blanket up to the top of the cantle. This creates a “tunnel” allowing air to enter and reach your horse’s back, making him cooler and more comfortable during the ride. This is also a good time to make sure no mane hairs are trapped under the pad and pulled tight.

Pad cleaning. Clean your saddle pad/s regularly; a buildup of hair and dirt on the pad can irritate your horse’s back. Also, use a clean pad if you switch horses; shared equipment can spread skin problems from horse to horse. Toss cotton blankets and pads in the wash, but wool requires hand washing with cold water, a mild soap such as Ivory, and a hard bristled brush. After washing, air-dry blankets and pads in the sun.

Western Bridle

Photo by Cappy Jackson

Checkpoint #3: Bridle
Bridle type. Either leather or nylon is acceptable for schooling. Secure the headstall with a browband and throatlatch. When riding English and using a snaffle, Palm adds a cavesson (noseband) to keep her horse from opening his mouth and to provide more control. Because a snaffle works off the sides of the mouth, if the horse can open his mouth, he can evade the pressure of the bit.

If you trail ride, consider a combination halter/bridle. Or, put a well-fitting nylon halter on underneath your horse’s headstall. Make sure the halter is fitted high enough (one inch under each cheekbone) to prevent pinching from the bit. Take along a stout lead rope so you can safely tie your horse when you stop along the trail.

Reins. Split reins or a single rein are a matter of personal preference. Palm chooses to ride with 5/8-inch wide split-leather reins made of bridle leather, because they’re a good fit for women’s hands.

Round reins are Palm’s second choice, but she prefers leather over nylon, because nylon is slick and can be slippery, while leather offers better grip and contact. In rainy weather, however, leather can become slippery, so choose nylon instead. If you ride English, you’ll find laced or braided reins offer a good grip.

If you ride with a single rein, note that the reins should be long enough that when you pick them up, there’s a good 6 to 12 inches of bite, the part of the rein that hangs down. This extra amount of rein gives you more options for rein adjustment and allows you to maintain a loose rein or light contact when you don’t need greater control.

Hardware. Palm cautions against using snaps instead of buckles or leather lacing to attach the reins to the bit. “Snaps are always jiggling and can be annoying to a sensitive or nervous horse, because it stimulates them even more,” she notes. “If you use snaps, make sure the snap weight isn’t heavier than the rein; otherwise it’ll move constantly and send vibrations to the bit, which some horses find very annoying. These vibrations also interfere with clear rein cues. If you have snaps on the reins and your horse mouths the bit a lot, or is nervous, try replacing those snaps with a leather attachment, and you might notice a big improvement.”

Curb Strap

Photo by Cappy Jackson

Checkpoint #4: Bit
Bit type. “You should ride in as less severe a bit as you need to have control of your horse,” Palm notes. “People tend to have more bit then they need. A more severe bit enhances sensitivity and response. Instead of getting more control, you can actually have less.”

Any bit can be abusive depending on the rider. Even a snaffle bit — which sports a broken mouthpiece and lacks shanks for leverage — can be severe in the wrong hands.

Bit fit. Make sure the bit you are using fits and is adjusted properly in your horse’s mouth. It shouldn’t sit too low. There should be one wrinkle in the corners of his mouth, just above the bit.

If your horse is comfortable with the bit, his mouth will be relaxed, as will his head-and-neck carriage. His eye will be soft, and his neck muscles won’t be tense. Is his mouth always moving, is his neck tense, or does he frequently toss his head? Any or all of these can be signs the bit isn’t right for him, isn’t fitted properly, or you’re being too heavy-handed.

Curb strap/chain. If your bit requires a curb strap or chain, check the adjustment, as this directly relates to how well your bit will function. For example, with a curb bit a properly fitted curb strap allows the bit to have the right leverage to work on the bars of the horse’s mouth. If the curb strap is too tight, there is always tension on the bit. If the strap is too loose, the bit loses leverage.

You should be able to slip two fingers under the chain or strap and slide them along your horse’s chin. Palm prefers a plain leather curb strap with buckles on both sides for ease of adjustment. 

Breastcollar

Photo by Cappy Jackson

Breastcollar Tip
Do you ride with a breastcollar? Look for a well-made, leather breastcollar, and properly adjust it to fit your horse. It should fit snugly — not tight and never loose. It should rest above your horse’s point of the shoulder (as shown). If it sits too low over the point of the shoulder, it’ll restrict movement and cause him pain. The metal center ring in front should rest right at the base of his neck; if it’s any lower, it’s sitting too low.

Cynthia McFarland is a full-time freelance writer who writes regularly for national horse publications and is the author of eight books. Horse-crazy since childhood, she owns a small farm in north central Florida. She enjoys trail riding on her Paint Horse gelding, Ben.

Lynn Palm has shown more than 34 Quarter Horse world and reserve champions, competing in both English and Western disciplines. She’s won a record four AQHA Superhorse titles and was the first rider to win the prestigious Superhorse title twice on the same horse, Rugged Lark. In 2000, Palm was named Horsewoman of the Year by the Women’s Sports Foundation and the AQHA. In 2003, Equine Affaire gave her its Exceptional Equestrian Educator award.

Fast Back Ropes are known for having body and action—sometimes to the degree that lower-numbered ropers aren’t comfortable with them. In response to that, chief rope maker at Fast Back, Al Benson, created the Natural. The Natural touted a slightly deader feel and accentuated tip feel—and it became very popular.

However, Fast Back sensed that consumers were interested in a rope somewhere in between and that’s how the Redline is different. It combines the feel of the Natural in a smaller and lighter rope.

“We anticipate the Redline will appeal to both headers and heelers,” explains Al Benson. “This rope is made with a unique poly fiber developed specifically for the Redline.”

The four-strand is, obviously, red in color, and the head rope is 31 feet long and comes in XXS, XS, S, MS lays. The heel version is 35 feet long and comes in S, MS, M, HM

Code One: Horses Don't Like Surprises

Your horse, like all his brethren, is a creature of habit. This means he’s most relaxed and comfortable (translated: most likely not to harm himself—or you) in situations he’s been conditioned to accept. If he’s a rookie at being away from home, let alone spending his nights on a picket line, or tied up to your trailer, you’ve got some work to do before you can safely take him camping. Your homework:

• Train him to tie. If you can’t tie your horse and be absolutely certain he’ll accept the restraint, your horse-camping trip will be a nightmare.
• Hobble-train him. Not only will this make for excellent basic schooling in the realities of restraint, it’ll also give you a safe, and environmentally sound way to feed your horse while you’re camping (See Code Five.)
• Teach him to load, and to ride quietly in your trailer. You don’t want to be dealing with a balky loader out on some lonely trailhead, and you won’t want to be hassling with a bad hauler, either.
• Rehearse “wilderness stabling” at home. Practice tying your horse to your hitched-up trailer, and/or to a picket line, for gradually increasing periods, until he’ll accept being secured there for a number of hours. (Smart idea: Camp out with him for a night or two in the pasture, so you both know what you’re doing.)

Code Two: You're Responsible—For Everything

“Getting away from it all.” That’s one of the main reasons you want to go horse camping, right? Just remember: That reward comes with a price. The very fact that you will be away from it all means you won’t just be able to “911 it” if you get in trouble. Horse camping is an exercise in self-sufficiency, which means you must have the tools and expertise to:

• Maneuver your loaded rig in and out of tight spaces. Trailhead parking can be limited, and turnarounds can be tiny. Be sure you know how to back up your rig without jackknifing it!
• Change a flat tire. (Word to the wise: Pack a spare tire for your truck and your trailer, and get ‘em freshly aired up before you leave home.)
• Deal with overheated engine. Summer heat, and hauling up steep grades toward mountain splendor, or across long stretches of desert, can steam up even the most faithful truck. (Smart idea: Bring along some plastic jugs filled with water, in case your radiator gets thirsty.)
• Administer basic horse/human first aid. Keep in mind, you’re gonna be a long way from a vet or physician, maybe even from the nearest phone service. The savvy horse camper’s rule of thumb: Keep a well-stocked first-aid box in your trailer, and pack a smaller first-aid kit with you at all times out on the trail. And don’t leave your veterinary manual (you do have one, don’t you?) at home on a shelf!
• Set up a campsite that’s safe for both you and your horse. A complete guide to setting up camp is beyond the scope of this article, but we can run down a list of common causes of camping wrecks: tying a saddled horse to a picket line; tying to dead trees/limbs, or to any other unsecured “post” (including an unhitched trailer); tent/stove/campfire placed within kicking/stomping distance of horses; tie rope secured below horse’s eye level (a major cause of entanglement/rope burns); camping near bee/wasp/hornet nesting areas; failure to inspect campsite for toxic plants/ground holes/jagged stumps or rocks; camping beneath an area’s tallest tree (a potential lightning rod), or along a creek bed that could overflow during a flash flood.
• Build a fire in inclement weather. In these environmentally sensitive times, cooking/recreational fires are frowned upon, even forbidden, in some backcountry areas. But that doesn’t mean you might not need a fire if weather threatens your life.

Safe horse camping requires some horse sense. For example: In the situation shown below, the picketed horse on the left could easily get his saddle/hanging bridle tangled in the ropes. But untacked, as shown on the right, he can move about without risk.

Code Three: Prevention's Better Than Repair

“Out there,” you’ll be just as far from your farrier, tack store, and auto mechanic as you will be from vet/medical aid. You’ll cut down on a lot of potential for grief by doing the following before you take off:

• Have your horse freshly shod, to reduce chances of a lost shoe “blowout.”
• Inspect every piece of tack for wear (especially your cinch, latigos, halter, and tie rope), and repair/replace if necessary.
• Fine-tune your truck and trailer. Have a mechanic inspect your brakes, belts, and hoses; get you trailer’s wheel bearings repacked if you haven’t done so in the last year.

Rebekah Lou Taylor of Pardeeville, Wisconsin, was the lucky winner of the Horse&Rider 50th Anniversary Saddle Sweepstakes. To learn more about Rebekah, visit Editor Juli Thorson's Horse Talk blog.

Here is an excerpt from that blog:

Rebekah is a retired, disabled Marine who’s been riding for a few months. I wish I could be there to see her face when she opens the big shipping box that’s coming her way from our editorial offices in Boulder, Colorado.

Inside, she will find a custom-designed, silver-loaded trophy saddle from Cactus Saddlery. It’s been on display at our editorial offices in Boulder, Colorado, and we’ve all coveted it. The folks at Cactus outdid themselves!

The test: The Trail Rider's Saddlebag Savvy editor, Heidi Nyland, tested the pad. "I was interested to see if it would help me focus on my seat and relax," she says.

Nyland ordered a L'Apogée Bareback Saddle to fit her six-foot-one-inch frame and tested it while visiting a central Colorado ranch. "The 'saddle' was soft to the touch and appeared to be well made," says Nyland. "It fit the horse perfectly and was easy to put on. The wool seat was soft, yet firm. The skirting lay nicely against the horse's sides and was soft and smooth below your leg placement."

In use, "The high cantle design allowed me to sit in a good position, while also providing cushioning for me and the horse," reports Nyland. "The pad stayed in place and made it easy for me to sit the walk and trot. The double layers of sheepskin provided support and helped my test horse move freely. When I tested it later on my own older horse, the saddle provided cushioning for his slightly swayed back and helped me feel that I wasn't hurting his aging vertebrae.

"I think this bareback pad would be a great addition to any rider's tack room if they want to improve their riding by working on balance and rhythm during flat rides or if they want an easy-to-tack saddle for quick rides around the pasture or over flat lands.

"I'd love to see this saddle used in a therapeutic setting, too," she continues. "As a North American Riding for the Handicapped instructor, I know the importance of riding close to the horse to absorb therapeutic movement and build core muscles. Plus, this is so easy to put on."

Cost: $495.

Contact: Smith-Garrity, Ltd.'s L'Apogée; (800) 800-4261; www.lapogeesaddles.com

But you know that. So grab a pencil (or your mouse) and have a go at it, mate. You’ll have a bit of fun, and reinforce your safety smarts in the bargain.

1. As long as your gear hasn’t gotten soaked (as by rain), a thorough cleaning once every third month or so will keep it in good condition.  T / F

2. Even with a dead-broke horse, it’s worth always taking the time to tie properly, with a quick-release knot or safe-tying ring. T / F

3. If your normally well-mannered horse suddenly pushes into your space while you’re leading him back to his stall, ignore it. He’s earned the right to “be a horse.” T / F

4. You can reasonably expect a mature, experienced horse to stand quietly while you cinch him up quickly. T / F

5. Thorough, regular grooming will improve the texture and shine of your horse’s hair coat. This is the single most important reason to make grooming a part of your daily regimen. T / F

6. Horses have a blind spot directly in front of and directly behind them, so you must take extra care when working in or near these areas. T / F

7. For leading and tying, concrete can be a safe surface for horses. T / F

8. It’s worth the effort to teach your horse to stand patiently in place while you mount up. T / F

9. Once you’ve checked carefully for the proper fit of a new saddle or bridle, you can rest easy going forward knowing your horse is comfortable in his new gear. T / F

10. After you’ve placed the saddle on the pad or blanket, it’s OK to slide the whole thing back an inch or two if necessary to position it properly on your horse’s back. T / F

11. The single most important thing you can do to stay safe in the saddle is to longe your horse before mounting to take the “fresh” out. T / F

12. There’s more than one reason why your horse might refuse to do what you’ve asked of him. If you’re sure that you’re cueing him properly, then you should rule out a physical cause of his reluctance before proceeding with training. T / F

13. You should remain alert at all times while trail riding, and take extra care with even mundane things, such as handing an item to another rider. T / F

14. When your horse is disrespectful with you, you must let him know you’re angry and displeased so he’ll be able to tell that he’s done something wrong. T / F

15.If, on a given day, your horse is “on the muscle” and hard to control while you’re riding him in an arena, a good solution is to take him out on the trail, where a change of scenery will help him relax. T / F

16. Sneakers can be appropriate footwear for riding. T / F

17. If a horse is trying to run off with you, the best way to stop him is to use a strong take-and-release action on the reins, rather than a steady pull that he can brace against. T / F

18. Out on the trail, even well-acquainted horses shouldn’t follow one another nose-to-tail. To guard against kicking, allow at least one horse-length distance between your horse’s nose and the tail of the horse in front of you. T / F

19. If your horse gets antsy about being clipped, tie him up (safely!) before you begin to limit his moving about. T / F

20. A good way to build a friendship bond with your horse is to tuck treats into your pockets and the folds of your clothes, then let him search you to find his “rewards.” T / F