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“At the canyon mouth, the rock walls are only 30 feet high,” writes Christine Duval-Sentry. “Deeper into the canyon, the walls rise dramatically, until they tower more than 1,000 feet above the floor.” Photo courtesy of  Christine Duval-Senty

Destination: Canyon de Chelly (de-shay) National Monument, located in the heart of the Navajo Indian reservation in northeast Arizona, near Chinle. The labyrinth monument is made up of three canyons: Canyon de Chelly, Canyon del Muerto, and Monument Canyon. Canyon walls rise to more than 1,000 feet above the floor. Elevation ranges from 5,500 feet to just over 7,000 feet.

History: Anasazi (a Navajo word meaning “the ancient ones”) inhabited the canyon for about 600 years, from about 700 to 1300 AD. Evidence of their existence can be seen throughout the canyon: homesites tucked into the canyon walls; pictographs; petroglyphs; and pottery shards.

Since the 1700s, the Navajo Nation has inhabited these lands. In 1931, Canyon de Chelly National Monument was established to preserve archeological ruins and their record in human history.

Embracing 84,000 acres within the Navajo Indian Reservation and comprised entirely of Navajo Tribal Trust Land, the monument is administered by the National Park Service in partnership with the Navajo Nation.

Horses: You can bring your own horse, or rent one there. Canyon de Chelly has strict health requirements for horses and mules. All documents must be submitted to the National Park Service a minimum of two weeks prior to arrival. Click here for a downloadable PDF on livestock use, provided by the National Park Service.

Accommodations: You can camp in the Coolidge-Martin Campground, or stay in the Thunderbird Lodge across the street from the campground.

Guide services: To enter the monument, you must be accompanied by an authorized Navajo guide. The park requires one guide per 10 riders.

On-trail report: We rode out from camp into the canyon mouth. As we rode deeper into the canyon, the sheer cliffs got higher and higher. We rode primarily along a wash, sloshing through water.

Along the way, we stopped at significant archeological sites, and gathered round to hear stories about Navajo culture and Anasazi history from our Navajo guides.

Next, we rode to Standing Cow Ruins where the Navajo etched drawings into the canyon walls depicting the Spaniards’ arrival in the late 1700s. Twenty-three miles later, we arrived back at camp.

The second day, we rode to White House ruins, the second largest Anasazi ruins in the canyon. Occupied about 1,000 years ago, it’s the only place in the canyon that visitors can see without a guide — after hiking down from the rim about 500 feet.

Our final destination was Mummy Cave, the largest Anasazi ruins site.

Season: The best time of the year to ride is spring and late fall. In the summer, temperatures can climb to the triple digits; in the winter, the canyon does get snow.

Contact: Canyon de Chelly National Monument, www.nps.gov/cach/. Thunderbird Lodge, www.tbirdlodge.com. Coolidge-Martin Campground, (928) 550-1311.

But the real standout feature in the San Pedro are the jaw-dropping, fairway like meadows. These are perfectly flat and look almost groomed, the larger ones two miles long. Originally formed by glacier lakes, the meadows have filled in over the centuries to become prime elk habitat. Due to the remote location, the San Pedro Parks Wilderness doesn’t get many horsemen. (The trailhead is 30 miles west of Abiquiu on Rt. 96. Pass the village of Coyote and turn south on Forest Service Road 172 then onto 103, traveling about ten miles to the Resumidero campground and trailhead.)

The only thing better than riding in the mountains is riding here when the aspens are turning, particularly on this four-mile stretch of the Continental Divide Trail at about 10,500’ elevation. From the top is a view of Pedernal Mountain, a favorite subject of New Mexico’s most famous painter, Georgia O’Keeffe. The ride winds through what feels like a dozen wide-open, aspen-lined meadows that are sandwiched between denser pine forest areas. Each one seems more impressive then the last. This is wonderful horse county, and the Mountain Gods never fail to give a vibrant show.

I like to lope over one hill after another to reach rise after rise and come upon the great vistas. Cody, my gray, 18-year-old Quarter Horse gelding, and I have been riding up in this backcountry for the past 12 years. I’ve never seen a more agile, savvy mountain horse, and he loves it up here like I do. Watching the horses graze and relaxing with friends after a long ride, it’s awful hard to leave. As my riding buddy Marty Cooper likes to say, “Anytime you’re horseback in the mountains, it’s a great day.”

Plan It

Nancy Burchs (“the female John Wayne,” according to her friends) runs Roadrunner Tours Ltd and leads horseback tours throughout northern New Mexico. 575-377-6416, rtours.com

Holly and Ken Wolosin of Taos Horse Getaways have been exploring these mountain trails for 25 years. 575-758-8880, taoshorsegetaways.com

Aparcio Herrera of Target Outfitters in Cuba, N.M., specializes in overnight trail rides and fishing trips into the San Pedro. 575-289-3038

SisterCreek Ranch is rugged Texas Hill County at its best, with first-class horse facilities. The property, owned by Bruce and Beth Johnson, is a 700-acre working Tennessee Walking Horse ranch located just outside of Boerne, Texas, about 45 minutes from San Antonio.

Entering SisterCreek Ranch is like stepping into equestrian bliss. You drive by coastal fields and through the creek. Then you pass the living-quarters-trailer campsite, covered horse pens, and gorgeous paddocks, and go right up to the large barn.

Behind the barn are a large arena and a covered round pen; the barn is also adjacent to the ranch’s Western town, KickBack Flats.

Ranch Facilities
SisterCreek Ranch equine facilities include a 250-by-150-square-foot arena with sand and crumbled-rubber footing, covered, lighted round pen, covered stalls, paddocks, a wash rack, and a large barn with a restroom in the barn.

The recreational-vehicle/living-quarters-trailer area has four water and electrical hookups. The area features covered horse pens, plenty of shade trees, and a nearby creek.

The ranch’s guest houses are also on the creek. Each guest house has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a loft, plus a kitchenette, a large fireplace, and a screened-in porch. The accommodations for both human and horse are sublime.

Texas Trails
My first trip to SisterCreek Ranch was in September 2010. I went with my riding buddy, Carol. Bruce gave us a map and did his best to provide this directionally challenged person some trail-navigation tips. He invited us to ride anywhere on the ranch, including all the marked and unmarked trails.

The 18 miles of ranch trails are fun, provide natural obstacles to master, and give you an Old West feel as you ride over rough Central Texas Hill Country.

The “PG-13” trail is mostly flat and rocky. The Jar Head Mountain and Pop A Top/Moon Rock trails are rough and challenging.

On our first excursion, Carol and I traversed the northwest side of the ranch. Watch out as you ride past the stock tank just west of the arena; it can get boggy.

We rode to a blacktop road that follows a small trail that runs behind a house next to a shop and several gates. We headed through the gate on our right, which immediately led to a second gate. I welcomed the chance to practice opening and closing gates.

We then found a nice water trough, which our horses really enjoyed, immersing their noses in the cool water, then curling their lips in the air. Several cows hung out nearby.

Carol and I headed down the fence line, which later turned into a long, slow, rocky climb. Just on the other side of the fence, we spotted a fully antlered buck.

We then left the fence line and followed a trail leading to the Pop A Top area, an ancient-looking spot comprised of circular rock labyrinth formations and an old-style gazebo with an amazing overlook.

There were hitching posts, as well as stone benches we later used as mounting blocks.

Suddenly, the feeling of being in the Old West overtook me. This was such a unique spot, perfect for admiring the magnificent Texas Hill County. We sat there for a bit to soak in the views and relax.

Heading back was interesting, due to my directionally challenged condition and a few dead-end trails. We made our way using the wide Jeep trails and following the fence line.

Obstacle Course
Back at the barn, we practiced walking our horses on a bridge obstacle located by the round pen. The wooden bridge worked like a teeter-totter, with a round piece of wood in the center. Carol’s horse, Ace, an Arabian ex-racehorse, was a champ.

My Spanish Mustang, Angel, wasn’t so sure about the moving creature and would only cross over the short side. I was still proud of her, as she’d never seen a bridge like that before.

Spring Trip
I returned to SisterCreek Ranch in May 2011. I was joined by two riding friends, Carol, again on Ace, and Caroline on her black-and-white Paint, Jack.

Bruce and Beth gave us an updated ranch map. We explored the PG-13 trails, which are rocky, but loads of fun.

A watering trough is located off the trail (the higher of two parallel trails). One trail had several large logs lying across the path. I enjoyed taking Angel over these logs at a walk; later, we jumped them at a trot. Carol and Caroline followed suit.

In the PG-13 trail area, several small, unmarked trails branch off from a pond in all directions. The pond helped me keep my sense of direction intact.

On one side of the pond is a nice circular trail, free of rocks and perfect for working on collecting and suppling your horse on circle, free from the confines of an arena.

As we rode, a much-welcomed cold front blew in, raising the horses’ spirits

and making the air fresh and cool.

Heading home, we exited the PG-13 trail gate and discovered several short trails that wove through trees.

These short trails brought us to a spot where there were a few logs laying on the ground in an L pattern, another great trail obstacle challenge in backing your horse. We had lots of fun practicing backing our horses through this pattern.

Near the ranch arena, Angel and I also practiced walking across the teeter-totter bridge again. This time, we did it! What a great note to end the ride on and reward my Angel for being such a good girl. I rinsed her off, filled up her water bucket, and stuffed her hay bag. She looked content.

I’m looking forward to my next ride. Next time, I want to take on the challenging Jarhead Mountain trails.

As we walked to the edge of the Grand Canyon, the full impact of what we were seeing came into view. It was as though we were witnessing the dawn of creation in the form of a magnificent, inverted mountain range opening before us.

Grand Canyon National Park (www.nps.gov/grca) overwhelms your senses with its dazzling scenery. It’s also is a window in time. Incredible forces of erosion carved rock history. Standing on the canyon edge, you look back in time to rocks nearly two billion years old.

The rims are separated by 215 miles of road.The North Rim is 8,255 feet in elevation, and winter snows close the area from mid-October until mid-May. At 7,100 feet, the South Rim is open year-round, but often receives brief blankets of snow in the winter.

We took our own horses, Cowboy and Nate, 5-year-old Missouri Fox Trotters, and explore both the North and South Rims.

To take your own horse into the park, you must have a current health certificate with proof of Coggins test (for equine infectious anemia).

You can order regulations for private stock use from the park. This will include information on trails open to horses, trailhead parking, day and overnight use, and information on feed and water.

The North Rim
We began our visit to Grand Canyon National Park at the North Rim. The high-elevation North Rim is cushioned in a Ponderosa pine forest and overlooks nature’s masterpiece.

There’s a horse camp at the North Rim (open spring through fall) located one-quarter mile from the North Kaibab trailhead. The camp has a pit toilet, water, and a small holding pen.

Allowed in camp are up to six people, six stock, and three, 30-foot horse trailers. However, during our stay, the camp was closed for repairs. We had to do day rides and camp out of the park.

Armed with lunch, horses, and an adventuresome spirit, we rode east on the Ken Patrick Trail. Early on, the trail skirts the edge of the Grand Canyon, providing tantalizing views to depths below.

Shortly, the trail returns to pine forest and works its way east through forest-covered, hilly terrain.The trail is easy and in good shape.

The trail eventually goes to the Cape Royal road. After following the trail for a while, we backtracked a few miles and took a fork to the south leading to the Uncle Jim Tail.

This trail does a small loop just before Uncle Jim Point. From here, you can see down into Bright Angel Canyon and across to the switchbacks of the North Kaibab Trail. This makes a great spot for lunch before returning to the trailhead.

Traveling below the North Rim on the North Kaibab Trail with your own horse requires preplanning and a trustworthy mount. With vertical drops of hundreds of feet, a misstep is totally unforgiving.

A good rest point is the “tunnel,” 2,000 feet below the rim. At the tunnel are restrooms, drinking water, and hitching posts you must share with the mule trains.

If you’re a history buff, stop at the Grand Canyon Lodge (www.foreverresorts.com) on the North Rim. Built in 1927, it has been designated a national historic landmark.

With the North Rim horse camp closed, we left the park to find a camping spot. Roughly four miles north of the park boundary, we took Forest Service Rd. 611 east toward the East Rim Viewpoint. About four miles past the viewpoint, there are camping places along the road.

From there, you can access the Arizona Trail going both north and south. However, there’s no water for humans or horses. This trail is a work in progress. When finished, it’ll stretch from Mexico to Utah.

Riding north, the trail passes through patches of trees, including Ponderosa pine, spruce, and aspen.There are open, grassy parks along the way providing views to distant vistas.

Riding south on the Arizona Trail will take you past the East Rim Viewpoint. You’ll eventually get to the north boundary of the park.The Arizona Trail picks up again on the South Rim and can be accessed from the South Rim horse camp.

The South Rim
The horse camp at the South Rim is conveniently located in Mather Campground. There are two sites. Each one holds up to six people, six stock, and one trailer.

The campsites are very nice. There are two spacious pens for each camp, complete with hay feeders. Set among towering pines, each site has a picnic table and fire ring.

There are two rides from this camp. It’s a good idea to drive out and see where you want to go, because the trails are faint leaving camp.

Our first ride was to the South Kaibab Trailhead. Ride east, through the trees. Keep the campground on your right hand side. Cross the South Entrance Rd., where the power lines cross above it. Then you’ll be on a visible trail.

Ride alongside the power lines a mile or so, and look for the Arizona Trail marker. Turn left at the marker; the trail will cross Desert View Dr. From here, you can follow the trail out to the South Kaibab trailhead with intermittent, splendid views of the canyon on your left.

At the South Kaibab Trailhead, there’s drinking water, a restroom, and picnic tables.

Our next ride from camp was five miles west to The Abyss, which overlooks the canyon. Ride west out of camp, and follow the trail on the small ridge to the south of the paved road going to the mule barn.

Make your way to the north side of the mule barn, then follow the mule trail that runs alongside the railroad tracks and into the forest to the west.

The horses had fun gaiting through the cool pine forest filled with sounds of warbling birds.Tie your horse at the hitching rails, and enjoy lunch with a canyon view!

Overnight rides into the canyon are available from here through Xanterra South Rim, LLC (www.grandcanyonlodges.com). The two-day trip includes accommodations and delicious meals at the historic Phantom Ranch, located in an oasis on the canyon bottom.

If you choose this option, book your ride well in advance of your trip.

(For more on the Krones’ Grand Canyon adventure, see Postcard from … Arizona, The Trail Rider, November/December ’12.)

Seasoned trail riders and equine photojournalists Kent and Charlene Krone enjoy sharing their riding adventures in the United States and Canada.

Deep in the heart of Colorado lies the Winding River Resort. Located outside the historic mountain town of Grand Lake, this scenic haven sits along the North Fork of the Colorado River, and borders Rocky Mountain National Park and Arapahoe National Forest.

Owned by Wes and Marcia House, the resort has 150 spacious recreational-vehicle sites, 24 corrals for guest horses, lodge rooms, tent sites, and cabins.

We pulled our living-quarters trailer into an RV site with two corrals. Nate and Cowboy, our 5-year-old Missouri Fox Trotter geldings, were very pleased at the size of their accommodations. Showers, restrooms, and laundry facilities are also on site.

From the flower-filled entryway to the modern bathhouse, Winding River is immaculately maintained by eight work-camp couples. Our stay here was a comfortable, happy experience.

Here’s a photo gallery from our trip to Winding River Resort. For more on our trip, see Postcard From … Colorado, The Trail Rider, September/October 2012.

Into the Forest
Ride in any direction from Winding River, and you’ll find gorgeous country to explore. First, pick up a complimentary map from the resort’s gift shop.

We did three different rides from camp. Our first ride was a small exploratory loop ride of a few miles into Arapaho National Forest, which borders the resort.

To do this loop, go past the snowmobile rental shed, through a gate, and take the immediate first right. The trail winds uphill and passes by numerous slash piles. Sadly, portions of this area have been hard hit by beetle kill.

This loop will take you to long-distance viewing points. It then intersects with the incoming trail, and you head back the way you came in. Depending on the time of year, you may see lots of sweet, wild raspberries.

If you want to continue riding on this side of camp, continue following the different all-terrain-vehicle trails that head up the hill and branch off in various directions. You can do large loop rides and figure-eight loops.

Ride the Park
For our second adventure, we did the Big Meadows loop ride in Rocky Mountain National Park.

To get to this trailhead, exit the Winding River campground, turn right at the Rocky Mountain National Park sign, and cross the bridge. At the three-way split, stay to the right, and look for the Kawuneeche Visitor Center.

Stay to the right of the visitor center, and ride past it. Within a half mile or so, you’ll come to an intersection. Go left to get to Big Meadows. If you turn right, you’ll head down to Grand Lake.

Nate and Cowboy thought this was a pleasant, easy trail. The 700-foot elevation gain to the meadows was a gradual incline on a mostly soft, shaded trail.

Arriving at Big Meadows, we saw where the word “big” came from. The meadows are huge! They’re about two miles long and one mile wide, much like an expansive, emerald sea hidden in the mountains.

Lush, green grass swayed in the wind. In the distance, Nakai Peak, at 12,216 feet above sea level, stretched skyward.

After Big Meadows, five miles remain on the loop back to Winding River. We left the meadows on the Green Mountain trail, traveling mostly downhill.

At the bottom, cross the highway, go about a half-mile to a junction, and veer right. Instead of a roadside trail, this trail follows the Colorado River and will lead back to the resort.

Cascade Falls
On our last ride into the park, we rode seven miles to Cascade Falls. Begin this ride as though you were going to Big Meadows. However, instead of turning left at the intersection after the visitor center, turn right.

This will take you to the Tonahutu/North Inlet Trailheads. There will be two parking lots separated by a bridge. Turn left at the first parking lot. This puts you on the North Inlet trail; Cascade Falls is approximately five miles up.

Pastoral landscapes line the first mile or so of an old trail/road that winds through private property. A wooden rail fence encloses a matched pair of gorgeous, dappled-gray Percherons. A small cabin marked the end of private land. The trail began to wind and climb up along a mountainside. Cliffs were festooned with greenery and boulders of golden hues.

Beware! Before the falls, the trail narrows, and there are sheer drop-offs. Not a place to meet backpackers!

A low, rumbling growl signals the falls are nearby. An intersection with a stock trail to the left loops back to the falls. Friends had advised us to go no farther, so we walked from there to admire the falls tumbling down over the rocks.

Seasoned trail riders and equine photojournalists Kent and Charlene Krone enjoy sharing their riding adventures in the United States and Canada.

Destination: Lajitas Golf Resort and Spa in Lajitas, Texas.

Location: The resort is located on FM170 between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park. It’s situated along the Rio Grande River, close to the mountains of the Chihuahua Desert.

Overview: At Lajitas, you’ll ride into wild, desolate country, explore old mining ruins, examine ancient Indian pictographs, and then return to deluxe resort amenities, including a premier 18-hole golf course, a spa, ice-cold refreshments, and a gourmet dinner. Surrounding the resort are 1.1 million acres available for year-round riding. Here, you can explore the Comanches’ homeland, ride where Pancho Villa led his raids, and check out rusting remains of old mining camps.

Accommodations: Lajitas Resort is a world-class resort that offers excellent dining, a saloon, spa facilities, and a manicured golf course. You can stay at the resort, or you can save money and camp at the comfortable recreational-vehicle park. The RV park offers excellent laundry facilities, spacious bathhouse, and a swimming pool.

Stabling: Your horse can stay at the Lajitas Equestrian Center, which features upscale, 12-by-12-foot stalls, with an automatic fly spray system, a water-misting system, and ceiling fans.

Top trail: The 25-mileContrabando Multi-Use Trail System is composed of wagon paths and single-track trails that were created in the late 1800s. The East Main Trail was part of the supply and stage route that connected Lajitas and the Terlingua Mining District.

For this ride, you’ll need a permit from the Barton Warnock Visitor Center, located about a mile east of the equestrian center. While you’re there, get a trail map.

Begin this ride by heading across the road from the Barton Warnock Visitor Center and getting onto the Dog Cholla Trail. This is a great gaiting trail! You’ll ride on smooth, sandy, rolling hills surrounded by a wide variety of desert vegetation.        You’ll then get on the East Main Trail. This is a rocky wagon trail on which motorized vehicles aren’t allowed. Look for the Crystal Trail sign. Down this trail, you’ll be treated to light exploding across thousands of quartz crystals.

Cautionary notes: Because of the remoteness and harshness of this gorgeous but desolate region, exercise caution and common sense. Be self-sufficient. Take plenty of water and food. Take a jacket, even if it’s hot. You might be delayed getting back. You might even have to spend the night in the cold desert. Sudden storms may arise, your horse may throw a shoe and go lame, or you may get lost. Check weather reports for thunderstorms and flash floods. Watch out for cacti.

Before you go: Get a negative Coggins’ test (for equine infectious anemia), and stock up on certified weed-free hay. Your horse will need shoes to protect his hooves from the sharp, volcanic rock.

www.lajitasgolfresort.com

Story and Photos by Kent & Charlene Krone

Lincoln County, New Mexico, is a land embedded in history. Billy the Kid, Kit Carson, Black Jack Pershing, the Buffalo Soldiers, and the Apache all rode here. The Lincoln County War of 1878 secured the region's place in history. Smokey Bear was born, rescued, and buried here.

To this mix of history, add an amazing variety of terrain, from waving grasslands at 5,000 feet elevation to mountain peaks cresting out at nearly 12,000 feet.

Wrap this with pinion-juniper pines, ponderosa pines, fir, and aspen. Lace it generously with more than 100 miles of horse trails. You now have a trail rider's Western dream destination!

White Mountain Wilderness

Our first trail-riding goal was the Argentina-Bonito trailhead and horse camp that accesses the White Mountain Wilderness, a protected wilderness area in the Lincoln National Forest (www.fs.fed.us/r3/lincoln). This designated wilderness has preserved its unique and pristine characteristics; 118 miles of trails await your exploration.

The trailhead hosts a beautiful camping area. There are four large corrals, each large enough for two horses. There are vault toilets, trash receptacles, and picnic tables. Before the corral area, there’s also a large space for additional parking and camping.

The campground is set in a grassy bowl with gorgeous ponderosa pines scattered throughout. A seasonal stream runs along the bottom of the valley. A word of caution: The stream is sometimes bone dry. This was the case when we were there, causing us to shorten our visit.

Ride to the Top!

Prepare yourself for an exhilarating loop ride to the top of mountains that crest out over 9,000 feet in elevation with 360 degree views! That’s exactly what we discovered in our loop ride up Turkey Canyon and down Argentina Canyon.

To find the trailhead, ride back down the road about a mile, and locate Turkey Canyon Trail #40. Exit on your left (the north side of the road), and let the adventure begin!

The sun peered over the trees as we rode out of camp. The earthy odor of wet grass smashed under the horses’ hooves was our aromatherapy.

We were riding our 4-year-old Missouri Fox Trotter geldings, Cowboy and Nate, and were armed with a lunch, binoculars, and camera. The horses were also armed. They had their hobbles and dreams of a grassy lunch spot.

To get to the top of the ridge, you’ll need to ride for several miles and ascend 1,400 feet in elevation. Along the way, watch for old mines, and enjoy the pine-forest scenery.

The last part before the top is a bit steep. At the top, you’ll run into Trail #25, the Crest Trail, so-called because it runs along the spine of the White Mountain Wilderness Area.

When we came to the Crest Trail, we also found Turkey Spring. This is a spring area that’s fenced off to protect it from roaming cattle.

Turning left at Turkey Spring, you can enjoy the next 2.5 miles of mountaintop riding at 9,150-feet elevation. Turn right on the Crest Trail (not left on the Clear Water Trail) to catch incredible views.

The Crest Trail eventually comes to the intersection with Trail #39, the Argentina Canyon Trail, and the return route to camp.

Back on the Crest Trail

The next day, we did our second loop, which offered stunning views and more ridge-top riding. At the western end of camp, ride across the stream coming out of Argentina Canyon and ride up Trail #36 entering the wilderness.

After about 1.5 miles, you’ll come to the junction with Trail #37 going to the right. Stay on Trail #37 to the top. Some portions of this were a little steep and narrow, but negotiable.

Eventually, the trail travels away from the stream and comes to a five-way intersection in a beautiful saddle. Here, you can turn right and follow the Crest Trail #25, which has a steep, rocky section as it climbs.

The Crest Trail will take you northeast to the intersection with the Argentina Canyon Trail #39 that we followed the day before. A short way down this trail will lead you to a spring that has water and then downhill to camp, as in our last ride.

Western History

Our next riding location in Lincoln County was the Fort Stanton Area of Critical Environmental Concern. On the way, we stopped at two locations prominent in our country's history and folklore: the towns of Capitan and Lincoln.

Capitan is the home of the most famous bear in the United States: Smokey Bear (www.smokeybearpark.com). Smokey was just a cub when he was found near here, clinging to a tree, and suffering burns incurred during a forest fire.

He went on to become the endearing symbol of the United States Forest Service and fire-prevention programs for more than 60 years. The Smokey Bear Museum is here, as well as his gravesite.

Just down the road from Capitan is the small town of Lincoln (www.newmexico.org/explore/monuments/lincoln.php), center of the 1878 Lincoln County War.

Today Lincoln is a National Historic Landmark, as well as a state monument. Virtually, the entire town remains intact. A walking tour through many buildings reveals extensive exhibits, including Billy the Kid’s bullet hole in the stairwell of the courthouse that resulted from his daring escape.

Fort Stanton

The Fort Stanton ACEC (www.fortstanton.com) was our next riding and camping destination. Strategically located between Capitan and Lincoln, the Fort Stanton area provides superb riding and a historic theme.

Fort Stanton was established in 1855, and was at one time home to Kit Carson, Black Jack Pershing, and the Buffalo Soldiers. Billy the Kid was also imprisoned here. In 1896, the fort was closed; it later became a hospital.

For the trail rider, the 24,000-acre ACEC surrounding Fort Stanton is equestrian heaven. For your riding pleasure, there are more than 60 miles of maintained trails.

The Fort Stanton ACEC equestrian trailhead and campground is located between Capitan and Lincoln on Hwy. 380 and one mile south on Hwy. 220. The horse camp is strategically located just north of the fort and is surrounded by miles of trails with incredible opportunities for cross-country riding.

The horse campground and trailhead has everything a rider would need, except corrals. So, take your own horse-containment system.

The camp offers such amenities as human water, a horse trough, picnic tables, shelters, hitching rails, electricity, toilets, fire rings, and a recreational-vehicle dumping station.

We rode Cowboy and Nate west, out of camp and across the main road. We rode several loops using the Pershing Trail and the Mustang Trail, and riding cross-country. The views in every direction were sublime, with clouds creating a comforter across the nearby mountains.

Burnt Well Guest Ranch

For a Western experience where you can have as much saddle time as you desire, or where you can kick back and take it easy, consider the Burnt Well Guest Ranch (www.burntwellguestranch.com).

This ranch, located east of Lincoln, is the perfect setting for an authentic ranch experience or to top off your visit to Lincoln County.

This family owned ranch runs both cattle and sheep. Saddle up! Join in helping out with the livestock, or just ride out. Explore 15,000 acres of wide-open spaces around the ranch.

After long days in the saddle, you may enjoy sumptuous meals, evening entertainment, spacious living quarters, outdoor fires, and a soothing hot tub.

Enjoy this photo gallery of our ride into history! (For our full account of this riding adventure, see “Ride into History,” Postcard from … New Mexico, The Trail Rider, May ’12).

The sound of the waves crashing against the rocks competed with the pounding of our horse’s hooves on the wet sand as Ricochet Ridge Ranch owner Lari Shea cantered along beside me on her Arabian gelding, Rascal.

The golden sunset lit the ocean aglow, while the full moon rose above the bluffs. My Tennessee Walking Horse cross, Poncho, stretched his long legs and floated me along the retreating tide of Ten Mile Beach in Mendocino County’s MacKerricher State Park.

It was the end of a full-day ride at Ricochet Ridge Ranch, in Fort Bragg, California, and what a perfect one it was.

Midnight Arrival

Only two days before, I’d driven from the Oakland airport on the dark, twisted Highway 128 through the vineyards of Anderson Valley. Enormous redwood trees appeared to be growing out of the sides of the road.

Less than an hour later, a clearing offered a vista of the quiet Pacific Ocean. A young buck, silhouetted by the near-full moon, glanced my way as though in welcome.

I meandered through the historical town of Mendocino in search of the Hill House Inn, where I’d be staying. What a joy to find a lit fireplace and an enormous bed awaiting me.

It was just after midnight.

The next morning, over breakfast, Lari explained the itinerary for the next two days. The gray-haired 66-year-old sporting red cowboy boots and black jodhpurs appeared to be in great physical shape. Her smile lit up the room, and her vibrant energy radiated around her.

After breakfast, I followed Lari on the 10-mile drive to the ranch through the quaint town of Fort Bragg.

We arrived at the ranch, strategically situated next to the main road and just across the street from the coastal park. There, I met fellow riders Fernando and his wife, Susan, returning guests from Miami.

Joining us would be Stephanie, a ranch guide, for her last ride before heading back to her hometown of Bottrop, Germany.

An orientation held in the 24-four-stall barn’s arena was followed by a video focusing not only on riding safety, but also on the health and well-being of the horse.

A Special Spot

First, we’d ride on Lari’s other property, Simcha, which mean “a joyous or blessed occasion” in Hebrew. Simcha’s 315 acres, combined with the surrounding private property, make up more than 25,000 acres of trails.

We mounted up and started our ascent. The trail was a little slippery from the previous day’s rain, but my horse, Rioja, a 10-year-old Arabian Horse gelding, felt pretty sure on his feet.

Arabians and other endurance-savvy breeds such as Russian Orlov and Akhal-Teke crosses make up about half of the Ricochet Ridge Ranch herd, as endurance riding is Lari’s favorite pastime.

Winner of the Tevis Cup in 1989, Lari is not only a successful endurance competitor, but also a wealth of information on keeping horses fit and healthy. The other half is everything from Quarter Horses to Clydesdales to accommodate a gamut of clients, who also have their choice of tack.

A little canter to get to the top of the hill rewarded us with a spectacular view of the beach below, followed by a descent into the cool, musty forest valley.

Enormous redwood trees, some more than 1,500 years old, towered above us, shadowing the midday sun. Rioja leapt over a creek, thrusting me out of the saddle. We cantered our way back up the steep ridge. The fit horses were unaffected by the climb.

After winding along the trail, we came to Lari and Harvey’s new house perched on the top of the ridge. We lunched, sharing a bottle of wine and taking in the vista. Lari showed me the beach where we’d ride that afternoon.

A Beach Gallop

We trailered back to the ranch, but were soon back in the saddle, riding through a small wooded area that headed to the beach trail.

With not a person in sight we had the entire beach to ourselves. Rioja’s quickening pace told me that we were in for a gallop down the beach shortly.

“Is everyone ready?” shouted Lari.

The next thing I knew, Rioja, ears forward, was galloping along the sand. The salty air touched my tongue and I could see the huge smiles on Fernando and Susan’s faces as our mounts carried us through the waves.

Wow, I thought. This is fun!

It had been years since I’d felt the exuberance of riding on the beach. There’s just something magical about being on a horse cantering along the sand, as the waves roll in at their feet.

The trail back to the ranch passed a few park campgrounds. I asked Lari if they allow horses in the campsites. “No,” she replied. “But some of my clients camp here and keep their horses at Ricochet Ridge Ranch. Then they join our guided rides throughout the week.”

Into the Forest

The next morning, we trailered to one of the private properties Lari has permission to ride on — a beautiful 3,000 acres with the Ten Mile River and Seaside Creek meandering through it.

Lari mounted up on her Arabian gelding, Rascal, with no bridle, just a neck loop.

After a short jaunt through the lush green valley, we headed into the forest and began our uphill canter. It was the longest uphill canter I’d ever done, but Rioja was unaffected.

The wide, twisted trail, carpeted with rust-colored redwood needles, was bordered by Douglas firs, redwoods, and huge clumps of swaying pampas grass backlit by the morning light.

The sun’s light found small cracks between the trees, illuminating the green moss hanging from them.

At the top, the horses drank from a small puddle, while we gazed at the ocean far below through a small opening in the trees. I could see why Lari calls this the Spectacular Trail.

We finished the ride back to the trailers through an old orchard, where we let the horses graze.

Back to the Beach

Lari had errands to run, so I joined another ranch guide, James, and a Canadian couple on a short ride on the beach. I chose to ride Poncho, the gentle giant Harvey had ridden that morning.

Off we went! The waves, twice the size than they’d been the previous day, rolled in strong. Poncho, keen to get his legs wet, walked right in up to his hocks. The waves’ retreat made me feel as though I was in motion when in fact I was stationary.

We then headed to the packed sand and asked our horses to canter. Poncho was amazing; his huge stride just floated me along the wet sand.

After a late lunch, I met Lari for a sunset ride, where she hoped we could see our full mirror image in the wet sand during low tide. Once again, I chose Poncho. She was aboard Rascal.

The sun had already started its descent when the beach came into view. We trotted to the packed wet sand, then allowed the horses to stretch out, cantering in unison side by side.

The sun turned the sky golden, and a full moon rose above the bluffs — a spectacular moment in time, enjoying a ride in all of nature’s glory. I couldn’t think of a better way to end my adventure.

Here’s a photo gallery of my trip to Ricochet Ridge Ranch; for my complete report, see The Trail Rider, April ’12.

Thirty-five miles from Colorado Springs, Colorado, tucked away at the end of a little dirt road, is a rider's paradise, the M Lazy C Ranch.

This 1906 homestead ranch has been lovingly restored by Randy and Brenda Myers, and they’ve been giving folks horse adventures and treasured family memories for the last 25 years.

The ranch is surrounded by Pike National Forest, which offers thousands of acres of trails guaranteed to satisfy a wide range of riders. For the most part, the trails are composed of granitic sand. Many of the well-used trails accommodate side-by-side riding and are superb for gaiting.

In addition, there’s a wide variety of scenery and trail difficulty. You may challenge yourself and your trusty steed, or do easy, laid-back riding.

Ranch Amenities
You and your equine partner have choices of accommodations. There are primitive or full-hookup recreational-vehicle sites, tent sites, and six cozy, historic log cabins with or without kitchens.

Your horse may be near the arena in a pen, or you may choose an RV site with horse pens.

If you’re with a group, or have a large family, reserve the Cowboy U bunkhouse, which can accommodate eight people.

After a pleasurable day of riding, soak in the cowboy hot tub to soothe aching joints or simply to enjoy stargazing.

Randy and Brenda aim to please! If cooking isn't your thing or you want a kitchen break, you may sign up for delicious home-cooked meals, which are served in the spacious dining hall decked out in Western décor.

Our overall impression? Things are done in a big way around here, and with a huge amount of enthusiasm!

In the Saddle

We did a number of rides, some by ourselves and some with friendly guests. The ranch hands out a map that lists major trails and landmarks. These trails aren’t marked, but there are reference points listed that riders use to keep track of their whereabouts.

Forest Rd. #225 generally runs southeast/northwest and is a reference point in your riding. If you become disoriented, simply find that road, and it’ll lead you back toward camp.

Generally, north of the road, you’ll find rugged terrain with majestic rock formations; south of the road, the riding tends to be more level.

On our first ride, we rode west out of camp and did a combination of trail riding and cross-country riding. Elevation is 8,200 feet, and the trees are mostly ponderosa pine intermingled with aspen. Splashed against this colorful mixture are scarlet Indian paintbrush and silver sagebrush.

Another ride was to the top of Round Mountain. We headed out of camp the same way, but then veered left toward Round Mountain. It was a steep climb, but the 360 degree panoramic view from the top was worth it! We could readily see the 14,115-foot-elevation Pikes Peak in the distance. (For more on our trip, see The Trail Rider, April ’12.)

In less than a minute it was all over — the gunfight at the OK Corral. This famous gunfight occurred in Tombstone, Arizona, on October 26, 1881, when Doc Holliday, Wyatt Earp, and company battled it out with the Clantons and McLaurys.

Of course, there was a lot more going on during that era than just that gunfight at the OK Corral. We wanted to go trail riding with our horses in and around Tombstone, Arizona to relive a bit of Old West history.

Tombstone Livery Stable
Our base of trail riding operations was the Tombstone Livery Stable, located about three miles north of Tombstone, Arizona.

The Livery’s operation includes trailer spaces with hookups, 50 stalls for boarding, three cabins with kitchenettes, and one cabin with a bedroom.

The owners of the Livery are Doug and Terri Evans, veteran horse folks from up in our part of the country in the northern Rockies.

Doug and Terri are some of the nicest and most helpful people you’ll ever come across. For example, they provide a trail map that clearly states “If you get lost, we will come looking for you first thing tomorrow morning!”

A Boiling Pot
Back in the late 1870s, this part of the Territory of Arizona was a boiling pot; a rustler's roost bristling with rustlers, con men, thieves, and murderers.

Into this pandemonium came Al Schieffellin, prospecting for riches. His friends told him the only thing he'd find would be his tombstone. Instead, he discovered a large silver strike, and the new town was named “Tombstone” in honor of what he didn’t find.

Law and order was slow in coming. In 1881, Virgil Earp was appointed marshal (chief of police); his brother, Wyatt, became deputy sheriff. Wyatt’s friend, Doc Holliday, was in town to gamble, but helped the Earp brothers when needed.

One large outlaw faction in the area was operated by the Clantons and the McLaurys. They were part of an operation that stole cattle from Mexico, changed the brands, then sold them at Tombstone or to the military at nearby forts. The outlaw group was also embroiled in several murders.

It was only a matter of time until this pot boiled over.

A Monumental Ride
Our first ride was to the monument of the person who started it all, Al Schieffellin. We headed out of camp on our young Missouri Fox Trotter geldings, Cowboy and Nate. They enjoyed taking off under a silky blue sky and fox trotting through mesquite-lined washes.

It’s difficult to get lost in this section of country. The map is well-done; just keep in mind where the washes and roads are located. There’s a major power line to the east you can use as a reference point.

Schieffellin's Monument, a large, boulder-shaped pyramid, serves as his grave marker. He desired to be buried in a spot overlooking his early prospecting days.

A short distance to the south of the monument is the Arizona Spirit Ranch. This is the place to go if you don't have your own horse.

Designed like an Old West town, this guest ranch is all-inclusive: lodging; food; horseback rides; and evening entertainment.

The San Pedro River
Six miles west of Tombstone Livery is the San Pedro River, another source of Tombstone lore. We trailered to the Fairbanks parking lot located next to the river. This lot is spacious enough to turn and park large trailers.

We were met by trail-riding enthusiasts Nancy Doolittle and Jodie Hinker. Nancy is a founding member of Friends of The San Pedro River and does a lot of trail work. They were our guides as we rode north and down river on a trail of history.

At the start of the trail, several buildings remain from the ghost town of Fairbanks that flourished between 1879 and 1888. Silver ore from Tombstone was brought to the nearby Grand Central Stamping Mill to be processed. People who worked in the mill and their families lived in Fairbanks.

As you ride on this trail, take note of the town’s old cemetery, just after the start of the trail, on the right. Nancy on her horse, Risky, and Jodie on her horse, Sadie, led us down river, past the cemetery, to the block foundations of the Grand Central Stamping Mill where the ore was processed.

After the mill, we rode down a wash, then north along the San Pedro River. The ride was gorgeous! Huge cottonwood trees hugged the riverbanks, and we watched blue herons stalking silently through the shallow waters.

The site of Contention has two important points. First, it was the location of one of the elements leading up to the OK Corral gun battle. In March 1881, outlaws held up the stagecoach and killed the driver.

Contention is also where you rein left and ride across the San Pedro River for the next part of this historical ride.

Once across the river, follow the railroad tracks south. This railroad is unused today, but was originally built to transport ore and supply the area with goods.

On our return ride, Nancy decided to try a shortcut under the railroad trestle and cross the river. We noticed that her horse’s hindquarters began sinking into the water. They were in quicksand!

Nancy calmly turned Risky around, and he gallantly struggled back to firmer ground. A good rule in this country is to cross water where other animals crossed or where obvious trails are located.

Riding into Tombstone
The time had come for us to ride to the actual site of the OK Corral gun battle in downtown Tombstone. We’d been to Tombstone several times, but never with our horses. Like other tourists, we’d marveled at the original buildings, such as the early courthouse, Tombstone Epitaph, and the famous Bird Cage Theater.

Downtown Tombstone is closed to vehicular traffic; you either ride or walk. On previous visits, we’d gazed longingly as folks rode horses into town and passed period stagecoaches. We vowed that someday we’d return with our own horses and do the same.

Bolstered by strong morning coffee and under the big sky of Arizona, we rode out of the Livery south to town on our 4-year-old, greenbroke Missouri Fox Trotters.

Just before town, we cut up the hill to the right and rode past the new cemetery. The original Boot Hill Cemetery is just east of this point. The Clantons and McLaurys are still there today.

Riding into the edge of town, we could see the horse-drawn wagons milling around in the town center. We wondered about the mental stability of our young geldings, but continued on. Because of their calm nature and lots of experience under their cinches, our horses maintained their composure, and we were able to ride all the way in.

History enveloped us. We tied up at a hitching rail in front of Big Nose Kate's Saloon, named for Doc Holliday’s girlfriend. Across the street was the Crystal Palace where Wyatt Earp operated a Faro table.

Nearby was Campbell and Hatch’s Saloon, where outlaws killed Wyatt's brother, Morgan. Down the street a short distance is where Curly Bill Brocious killed town marshal Fred White.

The other way was the entrance to the OK Corral. It was here that everything came to a head on October 26, 1881, where Wyatt Earp, his brothers, Virgil and Morgan, and Doc Holliday faced the Clantons and the McLaurys. In the end, one Clanton and two McLaurys were dead. Ike Clanton fled the scene.

Live on the wild side! Come on down to southeastern Arizona and ride the outlaw trail. Visit Tombstone, stay at the Tombstone Livery Stable. Or, for an all-inclusive package, there's the Arizona Spirit Ranch. You could even ride on the Vendetta Trail Ride.

You’ll be mesmerized by Arizona's natural beautyand entertained by its colorful history.