Photo by Mark Bedor

With more than 3 million visitors every year, Yellowstone National Park can clog up with traffic jams in the summer—not the most relaxing way to see the famous sights. But take a horseback ride into the backcountry, and you’ll experience Yellowstone’s quiet (yet wild) side even in the high season. Kipp Saile, owner of Rockin’ HK Outfitters, is one of several licensed guides that take guests on horseback rides into the Yellowstone wilderness. Saile tailors his trips to the expectations of his clients, rather than fill predetermined trips.

“I assumed there’d be a set itinerary, but Saile just said: ‘What do you guys want to do?’” says recent guest Rebecca Rodie. And there are no lack of choices in this national park that’s larger than some states (nearly 3,500 square miles) and home to buffalo, wolves, grizzly bears, elk, and much more. It’s a thrill to see animals in a part of the West that has always been wild.

Most outfitters also lead a string of mules and rarely travel at more than a walk. It’s a perfect pace to relax in the saddle, look for animals, and savor the scenery. In other words, riding experience is helpful but not always necessary. Trips can vary in length and focus, and guests are encouraged to pursue riding, fishing, photography, or wildlife viewing. Or ask Saile to take you to a natural hot spring.

A visit to Yellowstone virtually guarantees life-long memories—like the evening I spotted a dozen elk scaling an incredibly steep mountain slope in the glow of sunset. Or those very fresh grizzly-bear tracks. And that great fishing in a pristine river.
Food always seems to taste better in camp, and Saile, a former chef, offers gourmet campfire cuisine like Thai shrimp, filet mignon, smoked salmon, and even fine wines and cocktails. Sitting around a fire, we felt like we had the park to ourselves, much like the early fur trappers and the Shoshone Indians who once called this area home.

2. Mormon Lake, Ariz.
Stay: Retire to a rustic log cabin on the hill or hook up your R.V. at Mormon Lake Lodge. 928-354-2227, mormonlakelodge.com Eat: The Steakhouse at Mormon Lake Lodge serves up juicy slabs of tender beef. Play: Hike, trail ride, or four-wheel the trails of the Coconino National Forest. www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino

3. Wickenburg, Ariz.
Stay: Lodge rooms at Rancho de los Caballeros come with kiva fireplaces and views of the Sonoran Desert. 800-684-5030, ranchodeloscaballeros.com Eat: Try some German brats and beer at House Berlin. 928-684-5044 Play: Travel back in time with Hays’ Spirit of the Cowboys collection at Desert Caballeros Western Museum. 928-684-2272, westernmuseum.org

4. Cedar City, Utah
Stay: Rest and relax by the outdoor fire pits at the Grand Lodge at Brian Head. 435-677-9000, grandlodgebrianhead.com Eat: Rusty’s Ranch House serves up its famous jumbo coconut shrimp and filet mignon. 435-586-3839, rustysranchhouse.com Play: Take in the stunning nighttime sky at a ranger-hosted Star Party at Cedar Breaks National Monument. 435-586-0787, nps.gov/cebr

5. Taos, N.M.
Stay: Experience true Southwestern style at the historic Taos Inn, which opened in 1936. 575-758-2233, taosinn.com Eat: Grab a slice and enjoy the local brews at Taos Pizza Out Back just north of town. 575-758-3112, taospizzaoutback.com Play: Horseback through the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains with a local guide from the Taos Pueblo. 800-659-3210, taosindianhorseranch.com

Have you ever dreamed of living on a Wyoming horse ranch where you can stand on the front porch and see forever? Does an authentic, working horse/cattle ranch experience, complete with chores and responsibilities, interest you?

How about starting young colts? What about riding? Lots of riding! Endless opportunities to ride over 66,000 acres, ranging from sagebrush flats, grassy slopes, to magnificent sculptured rims and ridges.

Would you like to help with cattle drives? Branding? Vaccinating?

Then you'll want to head to Horseworks Wyoming, owned by Nate and MaeCile Brown. Their ranch is located in Grass Creek, between Thermopolis and Cody. This area is on the Absaroka Front, a prong of the Rocky Mountains

Rustic Ranch
At Horseworks Wyoming, you can choose how long you'll stay, from one day to three weeks. This isn't a fancy dude ranch. No hot tub, maid service, or gourmet meals! It's a rustic, simple, sagebrush-y cattle ranch, modestly priced and affordable to the general public. Included in your stay are delicious meals, cabin accommodations, and a great selection of mounts.

There are no staged ranch events, just honest ranch work and activities. Some days are long and hot; others, relaxing and laid back. Selected weeks are oriented toward clinics, cattle drives, all-men's/all-women's groups, families, and youths.

The ranch also holds horse sales. It'd be almost impossible to buy the wrong horse. Why? Because you can ride the prospect at the ranch for a week or more until you're certain he's right for you. Also, you have the expertise of Nate and MaeCile, who love and know their horses. They want to sell you the best horse for your needs, riding ability, and personality.

As a guest, the schedule is flexible. At any time, you may take a break or a day off, and with good reason. We soon discovered that we were no match for Nate, who's 86 years old. He ran circles around us! He spearheaded jobs and led the rides. He also worked colts from 5:30 to 7 a.m. Coffee cups in hands, we'd observe the last half-hour of training. We never did catch the entire morning training session.

Peacefulness is guaranteed. There's a bone-weary peace that comes after a day of hard work performed outdoors and on the back of a good horse. Muscles ache, and there's no question about a good night's sleep!

Also, there's the visual peace you feel when you watch a fiery sunset, gaze into a campfire while listening to a softly strummed guitar, and gape at a black-velvet sky ablaze with diamonds.

We were headed for the Gotno Morgan Guest Ranch in Florence, Arizona, for a trail ride with our horses, approximately 65 miles northwest of Tucson and 68 miles southeast of Phoenix, on U.S. Highway 79. Turn east on the Florence-Kelvin Highway, drive six miles, turn north at Gotno Ranch Rd., then go one mile north and one-half mile west.

Preparing for a vacation before Christmas had kept us busy 24/7: charting the weather along the route, getting the horses' papers in order, Christmas shopping, wrapping presents, family and social gatherings, and packing.

But we felt the stress melt away as we hummed down the highway, looking forward to warmer climates and beautiful trail-riding scenery. We left behind a pile of brightly wrapped presents to open with family and friends upon our return.

False Starts
Less than 10 miles from home, I cried, "What's that noise?" as a high-pitched whine and whoosh of escaping air hissed from under the hood of our Ford 550 diesel. Ray replied, his spirit deflated, "We blew a turbo-booster hose."

We turned back, unloaded the horses, and raised the hood to assess the damage. Optimistically, Ray said, "I can fix this." With the hose reconnected, we re-loaded the horses and headed out only to have the hose blow a second time 20 miles from home. Ray tied the hose back on with baling wire and drove to the Ford dealership in Santa Fe, where we bought a new hose and decided to drive home and unload the horses once again.

After installing the new hose, we took the truck and trailer for a test drive without the horses. No problems. We loaded up and drove to an elevation of 7,000 feet, confident the hose would finally stay in place.

A Thorny Landscape
When we arrived at the Gotno Ranch, it was dark and a relatively warm 59 degrees compared to the frigid Santa Fe temperatures. The colorful Arizona sunset, Christmas lights strung along fences, and an invitation to Christmas Eve dinner with Ben and Deb Smith, the friendly ranch owners, made it especially wonderful to be there.

Sunday morning, Christmas Eve, was cooler than expected in this Arizona desert, but the sun warmed the area quickly. Just before noon, Ben saddled his mule, Molly, and led us on a trail ride into open Bureau of Land Management country east of the Gotno Ranch.

Every tree, shrub, and cactus in the Arizona desert has sharp thorns. The chainfruit cholla, a.k.a. "jumping cactus," seems to jump at whatever touches them. Unwary horses kick at loose spines, which then cling to their legs. Ben used a plastic comb to flick off the thorny hitchhikers.

We rode onto higher ground where we viewed verdant desert vegetation and ragged rocky hills on the horizon. Trails were flat and easy with elevations between 1,500 and 1,700 feet. Ray wore a red shirt and Ben wore a green one - how appropriate for our Christmas Eve ride.

The next day, Ray and I explored more desert on a 3½ hour ride. At first, we stayed on wide, well-traveled dirt roads. Our apprehension of the forbidding cacti changed as we cut cross country and realized how easily we could avoid brushing against the thorny spikes.

The sky was bright blue, and the temperature perfect for riding. We rode to the top of a small, rocky hill and ate lunch while gazing across miles of lovely landscape dotted with giant saguaro cactus.

Triangle C Ranch's main lodge overlooks the Wind River. "The comfortable log lodge is welcoming in both its décor and majestic mountain views," write Kent and Charlene Krone

Splash! A cascade of water shoots up, and peals of laughter resound. Scott, our Triangle C wrangler is leading us through deep pools in the Wind River. This is no ordinary "dude string" ride. We're a small group being led by a creative wrangler who loves his job. It's an exciting ride, and wet boots are just a part of it.

Calendar-like photography surrounds Triangle C Ranch (800/661-4928;www.trianglec.com). Within view are the Pinnacle Mountains and Absaroka Range; the pristine Wind River flows through the ranch. The comfortable log lodge is welcoming in both its décor and majestic mountain views.

The ranch is located off Highway 26 at the base of Togwotee Pass, 20 miles west of Dubois, Wyoming. Nearby is the North Gate of Grand Teton National Park and the South Gate to Yellowstone National Park. For riders wishing to view wildlife and wilderness, this is an ideal location.

Time-Tested Experience
Triangle C Ranch is owned and operated by Cameron Garnick and his wife, Vicki. Located on the site of the historical Tie Hack Camp, the ranch dates back to 1906. It was here that lumberjacks (hacks) cut logs, then floated them downriver to Dubois. A small graveyard and some cabins remain as a reminder of this era.

Talk about experience! For more than 30 years, the Garnick family has been in the guest-ranching business. Triangle C guests are given a working-ranch experience with extra attention given to details.

Bill Garnick, Cameron's father, now 95, took the first guest-ranch course that was offered in 1931 by the University of Wyoming. The present-day family is the fourth generation of guest-ranch operators.

Cameron, Vicki, and five of their eight children live on the ranch. They manage and operate the ranch, and hire help as needed. Their riding program was designed by them and tailored with guests in mind.

Horses are the Heart
Horses are the heart of a working ranch. Triangle C runs about 150 horses and mules. Wranglers have a broad selection of breeds and types to choose from when matching guests to their equine partners. The Garnicks raise their horses and train them on the ranch. They know each animal's strengths and temperament.

When pondering guest ranches, consider the horse-to-guest ratio. Many ranches have a 1:1 ratio, which runs the risk of exhausting horses long before the season ends. However, Triangle C always has a 2:1 ratio, sometimes running as high as 3:1.

By having more than one trained horse to choose from, you have more of a say in which horse you'd like to ride. Also, there's the safety factor. Exhausted, overworked horses may not be safe to ride on steep mountain trails. Unsound or green-broke horses may be pressed into service when stressed wranglers are faced with an overload of guests and a lack of ready mounts.

Fenced paddocks with lush green grass and loafing sheds await guests' horses at SisterCreek Ranch.

Bring your horse and your sense of adventure to SisterCreek Ranch, where you can experience the splendor of nature and enjoy your horse all in one gorgeous setting. The ranch is located in the heart of the Texas Hill Country, 20 miles south of the tourist shopping mecca of Fredericksburg, nestled between Luckenbach and Sisterdale, 45 minutes north of San Antonio.

As we arrived at the gate I had to roll my window down to take a closer look. Were those zebras? And those antelope sure looked awfully exotic for south Texas.

"Honey, look!" I said to my boyfriend, Jon, who'd planned this weekend adventure. Giggling at my childlike wonder, he punched a few numbers on a pad to open the heavy iron entrance gate. We soon found ourselves in a horse lover's version of Oz.

"Jon this is beautiful!!" My joy overflowed as his "surprise destination" unfolded before me. Trees swayed in the wind, the sun glittered on the surface of the creek, birds were singing, and the lush grass was as green as I'd ever seen. My horse, Tig, began a chorale of nickers, neighs, and snorts. Apparently, he'd also noticed the grass.

A Warm Welcome
Jon navigated the Dodge down the windy road to the property's center. As we pulled alongside a beautiful barn, the ranch administrator, Trish Cayce, greeted us with a smile. She introduced herself to us and to the horses with genuine cheer. She swept Jon away as I unloaded the horses and tried to gain my composure.

Fenced paddocks, a state-of-the-art barn equipped with a misting system and iron stalls, loafing sheds, a round pen, an arena, trail access, ranch riding, cabins, pens - was I in heaven? I mentally debated how to let Jon know that we were never leaving.

There's also a charming little Western town, KickBack Flats. We got settled and headed to Sniffy's, the town's saloon-like restaurant, where the cook had been preparing the evening meal.

We met Beth and Bruce Johnson, the friendly ranch owners, who sat down to eat with us. Then we tucked into one of the best chicken potpies I'd ever eaten. I felt welcome and at ease, but I couldn't help but notice a feeling in the air, as though there was a secret that everyone knew but me.

Jon finally managed to tear me away from our new friends and shuffled me off to our spacious cabin. Did he expect me to sleep after arriving at a place like this? Finally, using a soft fire built with wood in our stone fireplace, Jon convinced me to let go of the day. But not until after I got my fill of reading the horse magazines I found on the coffee table and took a good long rock in a wooden rocking chair.

Last October, the Southwestern Ohio Spotted Saddle Horse Association participated in the Best of America by Horseback trail ride at Smoke Rise Ranch in Glouster, Ohio.

The Smoke Rise Ranch staff and Tom Seay, Best of America host, showed us a great time in a beautiful autumn setting of rolling hills and woodlands. They offered the hospitality and organizational skills necessary to accommodate almost 200 participants. It was quite exciting, considering all of the riders, horses, wranglers, camera and production crew, demonstrations, and vendors!

This was an excellent opportunity to showcase the Spotted Saddle Horse and meet other trail enthusiasts from all over the country. Twelve SOSSHA members attended the event, including Trail Boss Tina Scalf, her husband, Mike; Joyce and David Hupp; Sandy, Ashley and Chris Stratton; Vicki and Tim Huber; and Ed, Kay, and Jackson Conley.

Most members sported bright-yellow hats, shirts, and vests embroidered with the Spotted Saddle Horse logo, "Spotted Fever - Catch It!" The SOSSHA is affiliated with the Spotted Saddle Horse Breeders' and Exhibitors' Association, a nonprofit, member-owned corporation formed in 1985 to preserve the pedigree of the Spotted Saddle Horse.

The Smoke Rise Ranch trail ride will be aired on RFD-TV in the spring of 2008. The Best of America by Horseback television series is a premier source of riding destinations and trails across the country.

The SOSSHA schedules monthly club trail rides from April to November at state parks in Kentucky, Indiana, Tennessee, and Ohio. Our trail boss, Tina Scalf, always ensures us a great time.

For more information on the SOSSHA, including trail-ride schedules, call association president Ed Conley at (937) 409-2901, or visit www.sossha.talkspot.com. For more on the SSHBEA, call (931) 684-7496, or visit www.sshbea.org. For more on Best of America by Horseback, call (540) 829-9555, or visit www.bestofamericabyhorseback.com.