Pinned ears, swishing tails and flared nostrils are signs that a horse may be about to kick. Photo © EQUUS

Any horse might kick under the right circumstances, and the possibility of becoming the target of a well-aimed hoof is always with us. Most of us learn commonsense guidelines of defensive horsemanship early on, but it’s easy to get complacent among trusted horses. To stay safe, it’s wise to always keep these rules in mind:

• Stay alert. Focus your attention on the horse you’re working with as well as any who are close by. Pay attention to a swishing tail, pinned ears, flared nostrils and other signs that a horse is getting annoyed, and take steps to diffuse the situation before he “blows up.”

• Watch herd interactions. Steer clear of any who seem alarmed or threatened by your presence. Also sidestep any developing skirmishes.

• Avoid carrying feed or treats through a herd. Horses can become competitive and/or aggressive to get to the food, and you could inadvertently be on the receiving end of their blows.

• Don’t ride among loose horses. A horse at liberty may send yours a “don’t come closer” message that puts your leg in the line of fire.

• Tie horses far enough apart so that they can’t kick each other. You’ll also need a safe buffer zone so you can remain out of reach while walking between them.

• Stay close to a horse’s body when working around him on the ground. The most damaging kicks happen when a horse has enough room to fully extend his leg. Kicks at close range hurt but are less likely to cause serious injury.

• Put away your cell phone. Whether you’re on foot or in the saddle, stop talking, texting and indulging in other smartphone activities. Safety around horses requires your full attention.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

You see it as a trail surrounded by plentiful vegetation. To your horse it’s a sumptuous smorgasbord just begging to be sampled. Allowing him to eat while you’re riding can help ease any anxiety he may have about the trail. It can also increase his enjoyment of the outing. But if he’s more intent on snacking than he is on responding to your aids, it’s time to refocus his attention.

He won’t be as easily distracted if his grazing time at home is sufficient and he’s consuming adequate forage. More hours at pasture—with a corresponding cutback in concentrates—will allow him to maintain his weight as he satisfies his natural desire to graze and fill his belly with forage. If, however, your pasture is poor or your horse at risk for laminitis, feed quality grass hay as the bulk of his diet.

Another way to prevent his focus from straying is to remain aware of your surroundings and maintain communication with your horse through your aids. A trail ride is meant to be relaxing and fun, but it’s essential that your horse listen to you. Apply hand and leg aids as you would in the arena. Try a shoulder-in to pass a tempting bush or extend your walk through a grassy patch.

If your horse still grabs the occasional branch, you may decide it’s best to ignore him. As long as he continues to respond to your aids, a snack here and there on the trail should do him no harm—assuming he’s eating nontoxic vegetation. You may even want to incorporate grazing stops into your ride.

Your trail horse needs about 10 to 30 gallons of water per day to stay hydrated and healthy. You’re responsible for meeting his critical water needs, whether you go on day rides, horse camp, or pack into the backcountry.

Never assume water will be provided at the trailhead/staging area, and don’t expect to find full water troughs in campgrounds.

Here, we’ll tell you how to meet your trail horse’s water needs.

Plan Ahead

Use these planning trips when you haul your horse from his trusted water source.

• Trailering. Every time you load your horse into your trailer, also pack a full water can, as well as a pail or tub your horse can drink from.
• Day rides. Pack one full, five-gallon water can per horse; this is usually sufficient for a day trail ride in temperate weather. Use a rectangular, heavy-duty plastic can. It’s easy to handle and weighs only about 40 pounds. (One gallon of water weighs eight pounds). Once empty, you can refill it at a nearby faucet or stream.
• Horse camping. If you’re going horse camping, your water considerations will be more extensive. Some camps will have a natural water source, but just because such a source is on a map doesn’t mean your horse will always have access to it. The banks might be too high for him manage safely, or the water might flow seasonally. Find out before you go, and haul in your own water, just in case.Note: At dry camps (those without water) the length of your stay will be limited by how much water you’ve hauled in, so plan well for an enjoyable stay.
• Packing. It’s impractical to haul water for your horse on a pack animal, so always call ahead to make sure the backcountry has a lake or water source for your horse to drink from.

Haul H2O

You have several options for hauling water in your trailer; here’s a rundown.

• Buy a built-in. Some trailers have water containers built into one corner or under the saddle racks. Built-ins are convenient, but consider refill ease, especially if you won’t have access to a faucet and hose on the road. If you’ll need to haul water from a stream or other source, you’ll need small containers you can lift when full. Also, if you need to fill your built-in container from the top, see whether you need to move your whole rig to a water source, which sometimes can be inconvenient when camping.



Some horse camps will have a natural water source, but your horse might not always have access to it. Find out before you go.

Photo by Kent and Charlene Krone

• Invest in containers. One good option for overnight trips is simply to pack a sufficient number of five-gallon water cans. Quantity will depend on whether there are other water sources available, and the number of horses for which you’re responsible.If you have a two-horse, straight-load trailer, you can slide the cans under the saddle racks against the back wall of the tack compartment. In two-horse slant loads, position the cans against the road-side wall in the tack compartment.Or, simply set the cans in the back of your towing vehicle. You can store rectangular plastic water cans side-by-side just about anywhere in your rig; they won’t scratch truck beds or trailer walls.
• Think big. To supplement your water supply on longer trips, install a 50-gallon plastic water container in one corner of your trailer’s tack compartment. Then fill. Also pack four 5-gallon water cans and four 2 1/2-gallon water cans. Use the 2 1/2-gallon cans to water your horse at rest stops; it’s easy to pour water from this small can into a bucket, then refill it from the closest faucet. Use the 5-gallon cans in camp. Use the 50-gallon container as a backup supply.

Watering Tips

Give your horse water in his own bucket; disease and parasites can lurk in common drinking areas.

Photo by Kent and Charlene Krone

Now, here’s how to give water to your horse safely and efficiently.

• Bring your own pail. Give your horse water in his own bucket; disease and parasites can lurk in common drinking areas. Also, your horse might prefer to drink from a familiar container — and you’ll be able to monitor how much water he drinks each time.
• Make him drink. Some horses are finicky when it comes to water taste. To tempt your horse to drink unfamiliar water, add an eight-ounce can of apple juice per one gallon of water. (Tip: Do this at home a few times before you leave to accustom him to the apple flavor.) Another technique: Blend your horse’s home water with the local water source to disguise the taste difference.If your horse refuses to drink despite your efforts, don’t despair. Of all the years I’ve gone horse camping, I’ve never seen a horse die of thirst. A horse will drink. The secret is to get him to want to drink. Offer water in the morning, on a ride, and before and after each feeding.
• Pack canvas. On the trail, tie a canvas water pail to your saddle or pack. This pail will come in especially handy on federal lands, where you’re not allowed to take your horse to lakes, streams, ponds, or rivers. Make sure the pail opens wide enough for your horse to easily put his nose into it.
• Pack a rope. Tie a 30-foot rope to your saddle or pack. If you come upon a stream that you can’t hike right down to, simply open the canvas water pail, tie the rope to the handle, and toss it into stream. To fill, let the water carry the pail downstream, or let the pail sink. When full, pull it back up with the rope.

Water-Use Tips

Here are some conservation tips you can use while horse camping to stretch that precious water supply.

• Water the feed. If your horse’s feed contains water, he’ll need less water afterward. To soak baled feeds — such as oat, alfalfa, or grass hay — fill the haynet with feed, then plunge it into a tub of water. Let it sit for a few minutes, then allow it to drain into the tub to save excess water. Hang the net, and allow your horse to eat. If you have pelleted or cubed feed, simply place the feed into a feed tub, and pour about a gallon of water over it. Let it sit for a few minutes, then allow your horse to eat.
• Catch excess water. After giving your horse soaked forage, fill an empty feed tub about halfway with water, and set it under the haynet to catch excess water. Then place the tub in a corner of the corral. Or, place it just outside of the corral fence, where your horse has access to it, but can’t turn it over or play in it.
• Tap other sources. Let your horse drink from water sources along the trail or near the camp to conserve the water you've hauled in.
• Recycle camp water. Save your end-of-day shower or basin-bath water in a pail. The next day, after your ride, use the leftover water to rinse your horse’s back to cool him. You can use leftover dishwater and laundry water the same way. (Tip: When rinsing your horse’s back, stand him in the shade so the water won’t quickly evaporate in the hot sun; his back will stay cooler longer, and he’ll be a happier horse!)

You’ve gone a new direction on the trail and come to the creek at a place you’ve never crossed before. Is it safe to forge ahead into the water with your horse? Ideally, your trail companions will be familiar enough with local topography to know what sort of footing lies under the water. Lacking that information, however, you can make an educated water-crossing choice by closely observing several clues:

• Survey the land leading up to the water’s edge. Swampy muck often precedes a dangerous bog beneath the water surface, and a steep or rocky drop-off into the stream usually indicates that unreliable footing lies ahead.
• Look for areas where other animals have entered. Deer, for example, have a knack for finding firm, gentle slopes into the water. But beware of following cattle tracks; cattle wade in wherever they happen to be, churning stream banks into mire as they do. Ride the banks to look for a narrow, firm path down into the water, and avoid wide expanses of mud covered with shallow water, no matter how many hoofprints they may hold.
• Listen to your horse. Extreme reluctance to enter the stream on the part of a usually water-savvy horse is to be heeded. Don’t under estimate equine intuition.

If, even after careful deliberations, your crossing choice puts you on unstable footing midstream, you’ll have to make a split-second decision as to your next move. Most horses want to lunge forward through boggy footing; if you are more than halfway to the opposite bank, you may be wise to let your mount do so before he sinks to his knees. Slippery shale and boulders, on the other hand, are usually best avoided; go back carefully the way you can, and try another crossing. In either case, dismounting will free your horse to take whatever actions he must to get out of his fix. You’ll be wet for the rest of the ride, but will remain out of harm’s way as your horse scrambles and lunges.

“Don’t look at the water!” That was my father-in-law’s advice to my wife, Emily, as our horses picked across the rocky bottomed swift stream.

The horse, Elmer, had never been particularly fond of taking unscheduled swims. I learned many years later that he and a neighbor had once upset a wagon in the middle of this same river.

Fording the stream at high water, pulled by a team of draft horses, they’d experienced a near-fatal wreck as the current shoved the wagon sideways and then pushed it over. Luckily, both men and horses survived.

My father-in-law’s advice to Emily was geared at preventing vertigo. Looking down at the water rushing by can bring on dizziness in some riders.

We’re used to the surface under our horses being stable from side to side, but water rushing underneath our mounts can have a disorienting effect. It’s as though the “ground” under your horse is moving rapidly sideways.

The best solution for riders susceptible to dizziness while crossing swift streams is to look straight forward, vision fixed upon the spot on the far bank where you intend to leave the water.

The principle is the same as in discouraging sea sickness on a boat, where you’re advised to look at the horizon, a fixed point.

The other reason for fastening your vision on the far bank is that your horse will be helped by your straight-forward posture. Becoming preoccupied with the water leads to imbalance in the saddle. If you stay straight, your horse is more likely to as well.

See you on the trail!

Top trainer/clinician Stacy Wesfall

10 Trail-Safety Tips

For more trail tips from Stacy Westfall, order the free DVD, Ride Safely on the Trail with Weaver Leather.

One-Rein-Stop Exercise

You can do this one-rein-stop exercise in the arena or on the trail. It helps your horse soften to bit pressure, and counters head-tossing and rein-pulling resistance. These are also the beginning steps of teaching the one-rein, emergency stop.

Goal: Your goal is to bend your horse’s head back to his shoulder while his feet stay still.

You’ll teach him that if you pick up on the rein and give no cues to move (such as leg pressure), he should just turn his head without moving his feet.

You’ll start on the ground, then graduate to the saddle.

Before you begin: Outfit your horse in his usual saddle, bridle, and breastcollar. If he’s young, a snaffle bit is best, as it applies direct rein pressure to his mouth for clarity of cues. (A shanked curb bit applies indirect pressure, so only use this bit if your horse is trained to respond to it.)

Note: If at any time during this exercise your horse seems anxious or confused, go back a step or two. Slow down the process, then work back toward your goal.

Step-by-Step Technique

Note that on the trail, your actions might be quick, such as if a deer jumps in front of you.

Step 1. Get into position. First, you’ll ask for a bend to the left. Stand at your horse’s left side. Anchor your right hand on the saddle, toward the back. This will help you move with your horse for safety and control; the closer you stay with him, the less likely it is that he’ll step on you.

Choose a spot on the breastcollar where you’ll anchor your left hand; otherwise, you might be tempted to continue to move it back as your horse gives.

Step 2. Bend to the left. With your left hand, gently pull your horse’s head back toward his left shoulder, taking the slack out of the rein.

Step 3. Release the pressure. If your horse moves his head, showing no resistance, while keeping his feet still, immediately release the rein pressure. As soon as you see and feel the rein get loose, release.

Note that even if your horse gives his head inadvertently, such as to swat a fly, still release the pressure. “Sometimes those accidental spots are where the horse actually discovers the reward,” says Westfall.

If your horse shows resistance and/or moves his feet, keep up the rein pressure until he stops moving, then release. By releasing the rein pressure as soon as he gives the desired response, you’ll teach him that this is what you’re looking for.

Watch for signs that your horse understands what you want, such as spreading his feet for balance.

Step 4. Repeat the exercise. Repeat this exercise on the left side a few times, until your horse will bend his head without resistance or foot movement.

Step 5. Switch sides. Step in front of your horse, and position yourself on your horse’s right side. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 on his right side.

Step 6. Gradually increase the flex. At first, ask for just a little give, then build up to bringing your horse’s head all the way around to the saddle, in both directions. Note that he’ll need to learn to stretch his neck muscles. Practice this exercise consistently so he’ll be able to attain and maintain flexibility.

Step 7. Gradually increase the difficulty. Note that on the trail, your actions might be quick, such as if a deer jumps in front of you. There’s nothing wrong with moving your hands quickly, as long as you move them smoothly, but be sure to get your horse used to quick movements in advance.

When your horse is comfortable with this exercise, gradually increase the difficulty by picking up the rein more quickly while still releasing the pressure with the right timing. Then switch left, right, left, right more quickly.

Step 8. Mount up. When you can flex your horse’s head in both directions while he stays still — and while you move quickly from one side to other — mount up, and repeat the process using the same steps you used on the ground.

In 2006, Westfall was the first woman to compete in the prestigious Road to the Horse colt-starting competition. During the competition, she bought her mount, Popcorn (Doctor T Tari), now an 8-year-old Quarter Horse gelding. You can purchase Westfall's book Smart Start: Building A Strong Foundation For Your Horse at HorseBooksEtc.com.

Westfall is based in Mount Gilead, Ohio, where she lives with husband and coach Jesse Westfall, and their three children, Caleb, Joshua, and Nathan.

Connie Tyson
via e-mail

A: Connie, you’re starting off right by making sure you have a plan before you hit the trails with your new horse. Everything is new for you right now. How you start off this relationship with him will affect many future rides.

Start by building confidence with your new horse — getting to know him and his reactions at home and on the trail. Take these steps slowly. Give yourself time to gain confidence with your horse, the trails you’ll ride, and your own riding skills.

“I like to first pony a young horse out on the trail,” notes Julie Goodnight, shown. “From the time the horse is a yearling, he’ll be led by a good, reliable trail horse and know he can go anywhere out of the arena.”

Step 1: Give Him Time

Your horse is new to you, so you’re still building a relationship. You don’t know yet how he’ll respond in different circumstances. Until you know his typical reactions, approaching new things can be intimidating.

Keep in mind that everything is new for your horse right now, too. He’s at a new barn with new surroundings, new horses, new sounds, and more.

There’s a lot your horse can be worried about when he goes to a new home. Give him time to get to know his surroundings, so that he feels safe and at home and isn’t overwhelmed.

If your horse is middle-aged, well-trained, and gentle-minded, he may not be affected at all by his new locale. However, if he’s young and this is the first time he’s left the farm where he was raised, he’s facing a whole new world he didn’t know existed.

Step 2: Perform Ground Work

Start off your new relationship with your horse by doing lots of ground work. Start in the arena, where he’s most comfortable. Work on starting and stopping him and making sure he stays right with you. Make sure he can back, turn, and change directions while focused on your cues.

Once your horse knows what you’re asking and that he needs to follow your commands, take him on walks around the stable, and practice the same skills. Get to know his reactions to everything in his new environment.

Work in the round pen. Take the time to know that your horse will go anywhere with you and know that you’re the leader.

Once your horse knows you’re in charge, he’ll have confidence in you. And your confidence will increase, because you’re getting to know more about his personality and what to expect.

Step 3: Prep for the Trail

You, as the rider, need to know all about the trails you plan to ride. You have to know what to expect when it comes to terrain, as well as things your horse may see and react to on the trail.

For instance, you might encounter wildlife and other trail users. Is your horse okay with bicycles riding by? Will he be okay with fishermen walking by with long poles that may look like whips?

Find out what your horse may see on the trails where you’ll ride, and first introduce him to the stimulus at home.

If your horse seems bothered by any gear, use the advance-and-retreat method to help him accept that it won’t hurt him. (For more on this method, search for “advance and retreat” in the Training Library section of www.juliegoodnight.com.)

Seek out riders at your barn who know the trails well. Ask them what you’ll see, and if there are any places to avoid. They’ll know if there’s a dog that runs out to greet you at Mile 2 or if the next farm over uses horse-eating leaf blowers.

Step 4: Pony Your Horse

When I start horses myself, I like to get them out of the arena early in their training. I like to first pony a young horse out on the trail. From the time the horse is a yearling, he’ll be led by a good, reliable trail horse and know he can go anywhere out of the arena.

Horses will mirror the reactions of other horses around them. If they have a solid, well-mannered horse to follow, they’ll be more likely to walk by obstacles that would otherwise concern them.

You can apply the same training to an older horse. Ask an experienced horseman and horse to pony your horse on the new trails for a few trips. Later, ride with the same steady horse-and-rider team, so you and your horse will feel comfortable.

If you don’t have anyone to help you, lead your horse down the trail. Let him know you’re in charge in the arena, around the barn, and on the trail. Then, when you’re on his back, he’ll be more likely to know you’re in charge, even when in scary territory.

Find grassy areas, and allow your horse to graze. Then he’ll think of the trail as a nice place to be.

Step 5: Cue for Confidence

Horses are herd and prey animals. As such, they’ll tune into your emotions to find out whether the environment is safe. Here are three things you can control to cue your horse to have confidence.

• Control your eyes. Keep your eyes focused and scanning the environment. This engages your mind and helps you stay in the moment, instead of worrying about what could happen. That way, you won’t panic by thinking too far ahead.
• Control your breathing. If you feel fear building, breathe with deep, abdominal breaths to calm yourself. Practice deep breathing before you need it, so that you can breathe slowly and with purpose.
• Check your body language. Are you tense and clamping on the reins? Are you leaning forward? Convey confidence with your body language. If you’re calm, your horse will think he should be, as well.

If you control these three components, you’ll affect your body, mind, and spirit, and stay in the moment.

Julie Goodnight lives in central Colorado, home to miles of scenic trails. She trains horses and coaches horse owners to be ready for any event, on the trail or in the performance arena. She shares her easy-to-understand lessons on her weekly RFD-TV show, Horse Master, and through appearances at clinics and horse expos held throughout the United States. She’s also the international spokesperson for the Certified Horsemanship Association.

Heidi Nyland Melocco is a lifelong horsewoman, equine journalist, and photographer based in Longmont, Colorado.

When you go for a trail ride, you’ll likely encounter a number of things your horse will perceive as a threat to his safety. As a prey animal, his flight instinct tells him to flee such threats. Your challenge is to keep him under control calmly and confidently. As he begins to trust you as his leader, he’ll learn to stay calm when encountering new object.

Here are a few guidelines:

Perform ground work. First, make sure you can move your horse’s feet in all four directions. Outfit your horse in a halter and lead rope. From the ground, use light cues from a dressage whip or training wand to move his front and hind ends to the left and to the right.

Tack up. Note that I’m riding in a halter, because that’s part of our training program. However, you should use the tack with which you’ve had the most success in the arena. And always wear a certified riding helmet for safety.

Perform the basics. Under saddle, again ask your horse to move to the right and left, and make sure he’ll give to your hand and leg.

Be confident. If you’re scared, your horse is will be scared, too. Confidence will make you a good leader.

Keep his attention. On the trail, keep asking for little movements with your hands and legs to make sure your horse is engaged.

Face the object. When you approach a potentially scary object, ask your horse to face it. Let him move laterally, but don’t let him turn and run, or back up. Apply appropriate leg pressure to counter these movements.

Reward curiosity. Your horse might be fearful of an object, but also curious. That’s a good sign. Give him time to study the object.

Manage a spook. If your horse spooks, keep him facing the object, but don’t confine him; confinement will only increase his fear. Keep your body relaxed, and be sure to breathe. You want to be the leader. After a spook, it’s okay to let him stop and think about it. You can reassure him, but don’t reward unacceptable behavior.

Be safe. Above all, be safe. It’s okay to dismount and lead your horse if you need to.

Robyn Spector trains out of Lone Willow Ranch in Petaluma, California. She specializes in starting young horses and finding solutions for troubled horses. She enjoys helping horses and riders refine their communication for an improved relationship based on trust and understanding. She focuses on a sound foundation to prepare a light, balanced, happy horse. She has experience in many disciplines, from dressage and jumping to reining, working cow horse, and endurance.

The Bay Area Equestrian Network is an online community where California equine businesses, organizations, and consumers meet and exchange information. It was created in 1997 to help promote the equine industry in Northern California, and to help horse enthusiasts find equine products and services in their area.

Hair, hair, everywhere! This time of year, a shedding horse is a mobile mess maker, leaving hair on you, your tack, your car, your world. If you want to speed up the month-long shedding process, try one or more of the following hair-removal tactics:

1. Give a late-season full-body clip. Shear off the shaggy coat a month before shedding season begins; the shorter hair will be less of a torment when it does fall out. Remember to blanket the newly clipped horse if the weather stays cool.
2. Apply some old-fashioned elbows grease. Control the timing of mess and shorten its duration by going over the horse with a currycomb or shedding blade during vigorous daily grooming sessions. Those lengthy daily sessions collect the worst of the hair in one area and can shorten the shedding season by a week or more.
3. Pour on the oil. Empty an entire bottle of baby oil over your horse, making sure to cover his legs and belly. After leaving the horse oiled for an overnight soak, give him a warm-water shampoo. The oil encourages dead hair to slide from the follicles. The procedure itself makes one big mess but gets it all over with in a hurry. The oil treatment works so well, in fact, that some recipients can look rather bald for a few weeks afterward.

You’ve gone a new direction on the trail and come to the creek at a place you’ve never crossed before. Is it safe to forge ahead and ride through the water? Ideally, your trail companions will be familiar enough with local topography to know what sort of footing lies under the water. Lacking that information, however, you can make an educated water-crossing choice by closely observing several cues:

• Survey the land leading up to the water’s edge. Swampy muck often precedes a dangerous bog beneath the water surface, and a steep or rocky drop-off into the stream usually indicates that unreliable footing lies ahead.
• Look for areas where other animals have entered. Deer, for example, have a knack for finding firm, gentle slopes into the water. But beware of following cattle tracks; cattle wade in wherever they happen to be, churning stream banks into mire as they do. Ride the banks to look for a narrow, firm path down into the water, and avoid wide expanses of mud covered with shallow water, no matter how many hoofprints they may hold.
• Listen to your horse. Extreme reluctance to enter the stream on the part of a usually water-savvy horse is to be heeded. Don’t under estimate equine intuition.

If, even after careful deliberations, your crossing choice puts you on unstable footing midstream, you’ll have to make a split-second decision as to your next move. Most horses wants to lunge forward through boggy footing; if you are more than halfway to the opposite bank, you may be wise to let your mount do so before he sinks to his knees. Slippery shale and boulders, on the other hand, are usually best avoided; go back carefully the way you came, and try another crossing. In either case, dismounting will free your horse to take whatever actions he must to get out of his fix. You’ll be wet for the rest of the ride, but will remain out of harm’s way as your horse scrambles and lunges.