Woven Wire Horse Fences Suit Most Needs

Mesh
The most crucial part of selecting a mesh fence is making sure that it is correct for horses. Equine mesh fencing usually has a vertical pattern so that the horses can't step through the fence, called "walking down." Horses also do best with woven, not welded, wires, and a mesh fence should be galvanized, which most are. We like to see some kind of top rail or barrier with mesh fencing to help prevent sagging from horse's leaning over it. This can be a board, to give a more finished look and stop horses from leaning, or an electric wire.

Any fence made for horses will also have openings too small for a horse to poke a hoof through. Have the smooth side face the horses, so they don't tear their hides on poky wires.

Be sure that the fence is labeled "horse" or "equine," not simply "farm fence," which will have overly large openings to house horses safely.

Look for openings no larger than 2" x 3" and try to get wire that is woven, not welded. Welded wire is cheaper, but the weld can come loose, weakening the fence. Woven wire is more durable.

Mesh fences are also available in a poly material. The most common trade name for these is Tensar. Like vinyl products, these need to have UV inhibitors to avoid weakening. Poly mesh can be used with basically any kind of post.

Traditional V-mesh fencing can run as low as $1.66 per foot up to $4 per foot for the braided/woven fence. And, again, you need to add the costs of posts, staples, and the other supplies needed for installation.

Posts
Posts provide foundations for fences. Wooden posts should be pressure-treated, which helps resist insect and soil damage. Standard sizes are usually 6 to 9 feet tall, and we prefer them to be 6 inches or more in diameter for strength, especially for corner posts. With a rail fence, all the posts need to be the same size, since they are carrying the same weight. For a mesh fence, though, you can get away with smaller ones along the lines as long as your corner posts are large and strong enough.

Obviously, PVC fencing comes with PVC posts. You can also use metal posts with mesh fencing-just be sure to have any rough tops covered with plastic sleeves to avoid injury-but the wood ones are more traditional.

Bottom Line
As we noted in our article on economy fencing (see October 2007), there are many variables in fencing, from installation to shipping to appearance. You need to take into account the type of horses you have and your terrain. Fortunately, shopping for and installing fencing has become easier with all the available online help. Red Brand and Kencove, for example, have comprehensive installation guides online.

PVC fencing's low maintenance and near-wood visual impact makes it an appealing choice. Properly installed, flexible rails also look tidy over a whole farm. However, it's still expensive to put up.

For most horse owners, we think a mesh fence is the best way to go, due to its lower installation cost, easier maintenance and likely long life. Get a woven wire with small openings (traditionally called "V-mesh" or "diamond mesh") that a hoof can't go through.

In general, your fence should be at least five feet tall. The bottom of the fence should clear the ground by 6 inches or so, especially with mesh fencing, so horses don't have room to paw. And it's easier to weed-eat if you leave yourself some room down there.

Installing a fence is often a professional job, although do-it-yourselfers might save money. We say might, because by the time you rent or purchase the specialty equipment, like post-hole diggers and a tractor to drive posts down and pull mesh tight, you might have save yourself the trouble and costs and have it professionally installed. Also, corner posts and gate posts need to be set in concrete, another big job for the horse owner.