Q: I have a Thoroughbred who has been showing in the Baby Green Hunters. He nearly constantly chews on his horse bit. We’ve tried many types of horse bits with no improvement. He’s currently working in a flash noseband, and we have to keep punching holes because he stretches the leather. We’ve had him fully checked out by a vet and a chiropractor. Is there anything else I can do to break this habit of bit chewing? Since he’s a hunter, there’s a limit to the equipment I can use at shows.
- There are a number of causes of bit chewing; it's up to you to rule out discomfort and anxiety and find the bit he's most comfortable wearing. © Amy Katherine Dragoo
Liza Towell Boyd
A: It sounds as if your horse is trying to tell you something. Constant horse bit chewing is often a sign of nervousness—particularly in younger horses—or discomfort. Consulting your vet and chiropractor is a good start, but you may need to dig deeper to discover the root of the horse bit chewing problem. Ask for second opinions, do your own research and experiment. Here are some avenues to explore.
If your horse is young, his bit chewing may result from immaturity or unfamiliarity with the bit. He might need more time getting accustomed to the feel of the bit in his mouth without also having to focus on a rider on his back. Remove the noseband and reins, and put the bridle on him in his stall for an hour or so, staying nearby to keep an eye on him. (Make sure there is nothing in the stall he can catch the bridle on. Never do this with a bit that can hook onto things, such as a full-cheek snaffle.) Repeat this daily until he seems to get tired of bit chewing.
Next, longe him with the bridle on, either feeding the longe line through the bit ring, over his poll and attaching it to the ring on the other side, or putting a halter or longing cavesson over the bridle and attaching the longe line to that. When his chewing decreases significantly on the longe line, begin riding him again.
In horses of any age, bit chewing can signify anxiety. Different horses mature at different rates. Even if your horse seems physically prepared to perform at his current level, he may not be ready mentally. Try reducing the pressure: shorten your schooling sessions, take him on trail rides and so on. Even consider turning him out for a few months and giving him a total break. Then bring him back slowly, making sure he’s comfortable in every situation before progressing. When you ease back into showing, do just the ticketed warm-ups at first.
If your horse is older, the first thing I’d suspect is ulcers. Not all ulcers are easy to diagnose, and some do not respond to anti-ulcer medications. Even in the absence of a diagnosis, there are a wide range of effective treatments, including diet changes and alternative therapies, such as acupuncture and herbs, worth trying. Try substituting alfalfa and corn oil for portions of your horse’s hay and grain. Provide his hay ration in a hay bag with very small openings to encourage him to nibble throughout the day in a more natural “grazing” manner.
Also look closely at his mouth for cracks in the corners of his lips or sores on his gums or inside his cheeks. Apply petroleum jelly to the sores and ride him in a hackamore, if possible, until they heal.
Find a certified equine dentist to take a second look at his teeth, as well. (Because they specialize in teeth, equine dentists can sometimes catch abnormalities that veterinarians miss.) In addition to identifying possible hooks, wolf teeth, etc., that might be bothering your horse, he or she can also tell if your horse has a low palate, which makes the bit sit differently in his mouth.
Speaking of bits, keep experimenting! We sometimes consult an expert bit salesman for suggestions when nothing in our trunk seems to be working. Some horses like thicker bits; some like thinner. Some like bits with multiple joints; others prefer straight, soft bits. Try different metals and materials. Look online, browse tack shops and ask other riders and trainers if they have bits you can borrow.
Hunter judges may penalize “nonconventional” bits in the show ring, including hackamores, kimberwicks, gags, multiring snaffles, etc. However, if your horse goes well in a mild, less-conventional bit, it’s the judge’s prerogative to deem it acceptable. I know a famous hunter, for example, who shows in a leather bit, and judges either can’t tell or don’t mind.
Experiment with his noseband, too. It sounds as if he’s fighting the flash, which may be contributing to his anxiety. Try removing it and lowering or raising the cavesson a hole or two. Sometimes repositioning where the noseband sits on the jaw can make a positive difference. Switching to a figure-eight noseband temporarily may also help. Remember, though, that flash, dropped and figure-eight nosebands are not “recommended” in the show-hunter ring (according to the USEF Rule Book).
Finally, ask a trainer or clinician to evaluate your riding to make sure you’re not contributing to the problem unconsciously. Too-strong hands or locked elbows, back and shoulders—even in the subtlest form—can cause this type of resistance in sensitive horses. Asking an experienced rider to school your horse can also supply valuable feedback that may help to identify the source of the problem.
Whatever is causing your horse’s chewing, be patient with him. Taking time to solve this problem now is much more important than sticking to whatever predetermined plan you may have had for this show season. If you only fix the problem temporarily, don’t be discouraged. Some solutions need to be modified over time. But you’ll succeed in the end if you keep thinking outside the box and listening to your horse!
One of today’s leading hunter riders, Liza Towell Boyd learned much of what she knows from two top trainers: her father, Jack Towell, and Missy Clark. After college, she joined the family business and went on to win 11 USHJA Hunter Derbies and numerous major hunter championships. Liza and her husband, Blake, have a 2-year-old daughter, Ellen.
This article originally appeared in the January 2012 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.
In my opinion, you could accomplish anything you are trying to do with a Dr Cook’s bitless as well or better than with a bit. Seems to me this horse does not want metal in his mouth. Why not try. Of course I am aware competitions won’t allow bitless but the results are amazing. g/l
I agree, a R. Cook’s Bitless Bridle would solve it instantly! Does ANY horse WANT metal in their mouth? Especially when someone yanks on it! A LOT of competitions allow a Bitless Bridle – try it!
All the things touched on by Ms. Boyd and the person who responded with the suggestion of the bitless bridle are good.
However, something not touched on at all is that in classical training philosophy “We want the horse to chew the bit”. Of course there is relaxed chewing of the bit and nervous nashing of the mouth. Obviously nervous nashing is as Ms. Boyd said, ” the horse is trying to tell you something is wrong”.
Most young horses nash their teeth when first introduced to the bit, but as Ms. Boyd said this is normal until a horse gets used to it.
However, “How do we use the bit in his mouth while he is getting used to it?” All too often people treat this (and many other physical reactions to riding) as a disobedience or something medically wrong with the horse, rather than looked at as a wrong way of using the bit.
One needs to look at all the teeth and ulcer , etc. things, but if the rider is still using the bit in such a way that it causes pain then all the medical “fixes” will be useless if the rider does not learn “how” to use the bit. And changing bits will not solve anything. Tightening the noseband will only exacerbate the problem.
Firstly: the tongue is the most sensitive part of the horse, When we put a bit in his mouth he tries to get it out… this is normal, not something he should be punished for. And we should never press the bit onto the tongue or it will hurt.
Secondly: the bars of the mouth are covered with only a thin layer of gum tissue and the bone under it is very thin and sharp. So we should not press a piece of metal onto it. Many horses have micro fractures on the bars from bits being pulled down.
Thirdly: horses use their neck to balance themselves and if the neck is held down, or pulled back, to control the horse, or to “Put him in the right frame”, then the rider has successfully taken away the horse’s only means of balancing himself, and he will try to get away in order to not feel like he will fall down.
So imagine when you pull on the bit either down or back, you press the bit onto the tongue and the bars. This is painful… period. Therefore we should never use the bit by pulling down or back. And the neck should never be pulled down into a frame.
The noseband should never be tightened, nor a flash be used to “Close his mouth” … this only “covers up” a serious training problem. And using all different bits is also missing the point.
After all medical/dental issues have been crossed out, you are left with one thing….Horses have mouth problems because of the WAY in which the rider is using the bit, and or unbalancing the horse by trying to “Put him in some contrived frame decided by the judges”. Just because so many different bits are allowed, does not mean they are OK for the horse. And all the contraptions one can buy to control the horse are all just ways of not learning how to ride well.
Study Biomechanics and Classical principals and then ride, and if your trainer says to tighten the noseband, or get a stronger bit, then change trainers.
The bit should be used in such a way that it is lifted up into the corners of the mouth so as to not contact the tongue or bars, and thus NOT cause pain. The neck should be used to help to balance him, not hinder balance. And mostly he should have freedom to use his neck in such a way that he can balance himself.
Horses achieve a “correct” frame as a result of how the rider helps him to balance… and when tension is not needed to balance himself, his mouth problems go away.
All of my horses (12 in all) and all of my boarders (6 in all) have converted to Dr. Cook’s Bitless Bridles…we have a big bunch of happy, totally controllable horses! Now, if we could only convince the dinosaurs at organizations like the FEI, USEF, AQHA, USPC, and 4H, we could have a world of horses without mouth pain and anxiety from metal in the mouth!
I have an off the track TB who grind his teeth consistently (even on loose rein) for as long as I’ve had him. My hands are soft, usually riding on the buckle.
After many bits, I read up on bitless bridles. I invested in a second hand “Barefoot Bridle” (similar to the Dr. Cook) and am delighted. My horse is relaxed, soft and responds better than ever. Stopping is not an issue, in fact, his whoa is quick and sharp.
He is much happier, and I can see a huge difference in his whole demeanor!
No more bits for us.
I like her approach to this. Often times upper level riders say things like “use a flash! use a crank!” I agree with most of what she says. But I think the fact the horse is showing in the Baby Greens shouldnt bother the judge as it could easily be that the horse just isn’t used to the bit. Also if the cheek pieces are adjusted too long then the horse will always be chewing to try and pull the bit back up into the place it should be. If the horse has a short mouth this can also cause this because a short mouth will mean even if the bit is following the “wrinkle rule” it still may be too low in the mouth because the mouth “line” is too short. I think if this was discomfort related you would see other behavioral signs like if the bit was too harsh or didnt suit the mouth conformation then the horse would probably be tossing their head and possibly rearing as well or if it was a mouth problem then maybe the horse would also be unwilling to take the bit when tacking up or have problems chewing thoroughly which could result in choke. But simple chewing can be narrowed down to a young horse getting used to the bit, ill adjusted cheek pieces, short mouth or anxiety.