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		<title>Fight Arthritis at Every Age</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/fight-arthritis-at-every-age/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/fight-arthritis-at-every-age/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 03 Jun 2013 11:31:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>kfrank</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Anatomy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Horse Care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Illnesses & Injuries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lameness]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Arthritis typically begins to appear in middle-aged horses. However, there are steps you can take to protect your horse's joints throughout his life. ]]></description>
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<dl id="attachment_1294"  class="wp-caption alignright" style="width:220px"><dt><a rel="attachment wp-att-1294" href="http://www.equisearch.com/farm_ranch/management/donationtax_062005/attachment/texasreiner220-jpg/"><img class="size-full wp-image-1294 " title="texasreiner220.jpg" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/06/texasreiner220.jpg" alt="" width="220" height="187" /></a></dt><dd class="wp-caption-text">Regular, consistent exercise will help keep your horse&#39;s joints healthy. Photo © EQUUS</dd></dl>
<p>Arthritis is often thought of as a condition of aging, mainly because its first outward signs tend to show up later in a horse’s life. But in many cases, the factors that lead to the condition are at work---in the way a horse is managed, fed and ridden---for years before. In fact, decisions made about a horse’s care at every phase of his life ultimately affect if, when and to what extent he develops arthritis.</p>
<p>This means that regardless of your horse’s age, you can take steps now to protect the health of his joints. These measures aren’t particularly difficult or expensive, but they do require vigilance, consistency and, oftentimes, restraint on your part. Although a horse’s genetics and the sheer wear and tear of an active life may make arthritis unavoidable, you may be able to minimize the impact of the condition on his soundness, activity level and, ultimately, his enjoyment of life.</p>
<p>“Every horse who has led an active, useful life is going to get some degree of arthritis if he lives long enough,” says David Trachtenberg, DVM, owner of Trachtenberg Veterinary Associates in Penfield, New York. “But I do think that thoughtful care throughout his life can really pay off by keeping that arthritis at a very manageable level. If you’re lucky enough to get a horse young enough that you can make these changes, it’s definitely worth the effort you’ll put into it.”</p>
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</div><p><strong>Foals</strong><strong> </strong><strong>and</strong> <strong>weanlings, a</strong><strong>ge: 4 to 24 months<br />
</strong><em>• Feed a balanced ration<br />
• Turn out as much as possible<br />
• Avoid forced exercise</em></p>
<p><em> </em>Years before a horse is ready to be ridden, you can influence his joint health. A growing youngster’s feed ration plays a crucial role in determining his vulnerability to developmental orthopedic disease (DOD), a collection of bone and joint abnormalities that arise when the conversion of cartilage is disturbed, usually by overly rapid growth. In the case of osteochondritis dissecans (OCD), the cartilage is too thick to be sufficiently penetrated by blood vessels, and the bone beneath develops weak and empty spots known as lesions. In epiphysitis, areas of actively growing cartilage at the ends of bone cannot support the horse’s weight, leading to inflammation in the areas under stress.</p>
<p>“Not every DOD will lead to arthritis later on in life,” says Richard Markell, DVM, owner of Ranch and Coast Equine Practice in Encinitas, California. “But there have been studies that suggest that small osteochondral fragments can cause scoring that leads to arthritis later on.”</p>
<p>Diets that contribute to DOD tend to provide excessive nutrients and calories, leading to very rapid growth and obesity. “The youngsters who develop DOD are the ones who are being fed high-protein diets, such as a high percentage of grain and/or alfalfa hay and lots of vitamin supplements,” says Robin Dabareiner, DVM, PhD, of Texas A&amp;M University. “The owners feel they are doing the right thing by giving their horses the very best nutrition, but really they are giving them way too much. You’ve also got to remember that if they are still with their dam, they are getting nutrition through her milk, so if she is being fed a high-protein diet then the foal is, too.”</p>
<p>Instead, says Trachtenberg, it’s better to offer a ration that provides just the basic nutrition a youngster needs and nothing more: “I like young horses to have a body0 condition score of about 4. That may look a little thin to some people, but it’s analogous to a growing teenager---they often go through lanky stages before they are physically mature. It’s not what our eye is accustomed to, but it’s healthy.”</p>
<p>Don’t overlook hoof care for foals and weanlings. Unbalanced hooves can exacerbate existing problems or create new ones. Schedule regular farrier visits for youngsters, just as you would a mature horse.</p>
<p>If a young horse develops swelling at the joints, call your veterinarian immediately to get a proper diagnosis and make dietary adjustments. “The first thing we do is cut the grain back as much as possible, with only coastal Bermuda hay---no alfalfa---and no supplements,” says Dabareiner. “You can turn these cases around if you don’t ignore them.”</p>
<p>In addition to careful feeding, young horses need plenty of turnout. “Studies have shown that young horses who get regular, but unforced, exercise have greater bone density than those kept in stalls,” says Trachtenberg. “The bone density and improved strength of muscles, tendons and ligaments will protect them from injury and arthritis down the road.”</p>
<p>Keep in mind that forced exercise, such as ponying or longeing, is not the same as turnout. Forced exercise can be detrimental to joints, so resist the urge to devise any formal conditioning program for a horse who is not yet ready to be ridden. If your current situation doesn’t allow a youngster to be turned out full-time or for a majority of the day, look into a boarding or lay-up facility that can accommodate his needs.</p>
<p><strong>Youth, a</strong><strong>ge: 2 to 5 years<br />
</strong><em>• Don’t start work until physical maturity<br />
• Start out with slow and easy exercise<br />
• Don’t push too hard even as fitness improves </em></p>
<p><em> </em>The first stages of a young horse’s training offer the opportunity to lay a good foundation for a lifetime of joint health or to set in motion a chain of destructive events culminating in debilitating arthritis. At this point in your horse’s life, the best thing you can do to protect his joints is to move him along slowly and conservatively. “One of the biggest mistakes you can make is pushing young horses too fast, before their bones are mature,” says Dabareiner. “Excessive training on immature bones is a perfect prescription for arthritis later on.”</p>
<p>A young, immature horse’s cartilage is still forming and not able to withstand intense or repetitive work. “The cartilage in these young horses is ‘soft,’” says Markell. “That isn’t a great medical term, but it’s the best description I can give people when cautioning them about starting a horse too early or overtraining a young horse.” Immature cartilage is more likely to be damaged, possibly never healing properly, and leaving bone underneath it at risk.</p>
<p>At what age a horse is physically mature enough to handle regular work depends greatly on his breed. “My practice is show jumpers and dressage horses, so we see lots of warmbloods, and they mature much slower than Thoroughbreds. A 4-year-old warmblood isn’t done growing; his bones aren’t ready for intense work.”</p>
<p>On the other hand, a Quarter Horse may be ready for work sooner. “Quarter Horses mature faster than warmbloods, that’s for sure,” says Dabareiner, “so generally we can start them earlier.”</p>
<p>But even within breeds, individuals mature at different rates, so there is no set formula for when to start a horse under saddle. “The bottom line is that if your horse doesn’t look mature---if he’s still got any of the gangly look to him---he’s probably not ready for work yet,” says Trachtenberg. If you’re not sure, you can ask your veterinarian her opinion on your horse’s physical maturity.</p>
<p>Waiting to ride a young horse can feel like wasted time, but there are plenty of ways to begin training without ever mounting up. “You can be teaching a young horse without riding him,” says Trachtenberg. “Through groundwork, you can have him responding to basic commands and understanding how to yield to pressure.” Not only will such groundwork spare his young joints, but the lessons will transfer to work under saddle.</p>
<p>When you do begin to work a young horse, take things slowly to protect his joints. “One problem we see in the Western performance horse industry is people who have paid high-dollar fees to enter horses in 3-year-old futurities, so they must train them hard,” says Dabareiner. “They’ll have maybe 60 days under saddle and are then put to cows and worked hard, every day until the event. It’s a fact of the business, but as a result, I’ve seen some 4-year-old horses that have joints that you’d expect on a 15-year-old.”</p>
<p>Condition a young horse just as carefully as---or perhaps even more than---you would a mature horse coming back from an injury. That means short, easy workouts to begin with, slowly building up to longer or more intensive sessions, with regular days of rest and turnout. Also be mindful of the pressures you put on a young horse. The torque associated with tight turns can be particularly hard on joints, so keep circles large and avoid longeing for more than a few minutes at a time. Repetition can also take a toll on young bones. Teach the horse a skill, but resist the urge to drill it over and over.</p>
<p>Showing restraint with a young horse can be difficult, especially if he is promising. “You have to be really careful,” says Markell. “The better quality the horse, the more he’s going to be able to do and the more you’ll want to do it. I see this all time: Someone has a great prospect and they’ll say to me, ‘Just look how spectacular his trot is!’ My response is always, ‘Yeah, just don’t do it too much.’”</p>
<p><strong> Middle age, a</strong><strong>ge: 5 to 15 years<br />
</strong><em>• Maintain good condition<br />
</em><em>• Insist on good farriery<br />
</em><em>• Provide periods of rest as needed</em></p>
<p>Once your horse is mature and trained, protecting his joints from arthritis is all about consistency. For starters, it’s important to keep him in good physical condition, without lapses in fitness, if possible.</p>
<p>“When we are talking about protecting a joint, it’s important to understand that the rest of the horse’s body is a support system for that joint,” says Markell. “The muscles and tendons and ligaments that surround a joint all work together to keep the structure stable. Without fitness, which brings strength and stability, it will move abnormally, and that leads to arthritis. So think of keeping the entire body in shape when you’re thinking of joints.”</p>
<p>Of course, active horses need periods of rest every now and again. A day of rest after a longer-than-usual trail ride or weekend of heavy showing will give your horse’s body a chance to repair any minor damage and quell the inflammatory process. “You certainly need to rest a horse who is fatigued or injured,” says Markell. “And a week or two off isn’t going to be a problem, particularly if the horse has regular turnout. But what you want to avoid is really prolonged periods of inactivity.”</p>
<p>The older a horse is, the harder a comeback from long periods of inactivity can be on his joints. “If you give an older, fit horse time off, it may take too many miles to get him fit again afterward,” says Dabareiner. “In those cases, it’s better to keep him in work all the time. I’ve seen many horses dealing with low levels of arthritis very well, to the point you almost don’t notice it clinically, until they were given six months off, then it becomes something they can’t overcome to get back in shape.”</p>
<p>Regular, consistent exercise will also help keep your horse at a healthy weight. Laminitis is an immediate and real concern in obese horses, but loading of those extra pounds on joints will also take a toll over time. The inactivity that is typically associated with obesity also contributes to the development of arthritis.</p>
<p>Whatever your horse’s activity level, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about the preventive use of supplements that contain such ingredients as glucosamine, chondroitin or avocado soybean unsaponifiables (ASU).</p>
<p>The other place you’ll want consistency is in your horse’s hoof care. Hooves that are long, out of balance or otherwise badly cared for can alter the movement of all the joints above it, potentially leading to arthritis.</p>
<p>“Farriership is super important to a horse’s long-term soundness,” says Markell. “You can take all the precautions in the world with his workload and conditioning, but if his feet aren’t done right, it doesn’t really matter. Study after study has shown that every degree of hoof angle significantly affects joint loading. And repetitive strain on a joint from an imbalanced hoof is going to cause arthritis.”</p>
<p>Recognizing an unbalanced hoof can be difficult, however, because horses learn to compensate and cope. “Horses with poorly trimmed feet may still appear sound,” says Trachtenberg. “The damage being done is all subclinical. You may never know their joints were under stress until arthritis appears years later.”</p>
<p>Markell recommends using word of mouth to find a farrier who specializes in and is successful at shoeing horses with the same job description as yours: “If you have a dressage horse, ask around to find out who shoes the best, soundest dressage horses in the area. If your horse is a reiner, though, you’ll want to get in touch with the guy who takes care of the top reiners.”</p>
<p><strong> Old age, a</strong><strong>ge: 15 or more years<br />
</strong><em>• Be alert for the first signs of trouble<br />
</em><em>• Start treatments early<br />
</em><em>• Allow as much activity as possible</em></p>
<p>Signs of arthritis are very common in horses over age 15. After a lifetime of work, even one that didn’t involve strenuous exercise, it’s almost inevitable that a horse’s joints will develop some degree of stiffness. Arthritis in an older horse can be managed most effectively when it is identified and addressed early.</p>
<p>“Don’t wait for outright lameness to start looking for arthritis,” says Trachtenberg. “Most of the time, the first sign is a decline in performance or a change in behavior. If he suddenly won’t swap leads behind or seems ‘crabby,’ it’s probably because his joints hurt.” Trachtenberg recommends a lameness examination for any horse who suddenly develops performance or attitude problems.</p>
<p>And, of course, a thorough exam is needed when an older horse develops actual lameness. “Mistaking arthritis for another issue can lead to some bad decisions that make the situation worse,” says Trachtenberg. “You need to restrict exercise in horses with soft-tissue injuries, but with arthritis you need to keep them moving. So if you assume an older horse has a suspensory injury, but really he’s got arthritis, you’ll put him on stall rest and only aggravate the real problem.” Trachtenberg adds that the footsoreness of chronic laminitis can also be mistaken for arthritis.</p>
<p>When an older horse is diagnosed with arthritis, it’s not too late to address the underlying cause. “Try to figure out why it’s happening,” says Markell. “You might uncover some problems you hadn’t noticed before. Maybe he’s not being shod the way you’d like, or the footing in your arena is bad. You can still change those things and help slow the progression of the disease. Or maybe you’ve got a friend with a full brother to your horse that also has arthritis, and genetics is the cause.”</p>
<p>Once those factors are addressed, you can focus on preserving your horse’s soundness. Fortunately, there are many early treatment options for arthritic horses. “Most people start with a supplement at the first signs of arthritis,” says Dabareiner, “and there are certainly a lot to choose from.”</p>
<p>Trachtenberg directs his clients toward supplements containing glucosamine or hyaluronic acid: “Those are the ones I’ve had the most luck with over the years. You have to do your research, though, and buy a product that has some good quality controls in place and is likely to have accurate labels. Looking for one with the NASC [National Animal Supplement Council] seal is a good place to start.”</p>
<p>Some medications to treat arthritis can be injected directly into a joint. The decision on when to start such treatments will depend on the individual horse and your veterinarian’s experiences.</p>
<p>“A decade ago, we would line up a barn full of horses prior to a big show and inject their hocks as a preventive measure,” says Markell. “We don’t do that anymore. I don’t think it’s helpful, and anytime you inject a horse’s joints there are risks involved. Now we wait for a sign of arthritis to start thinking about injections. I’m going to be proactive and aggressive in looking for that sign, but I’m still going to wait to find it before I start injections.”</p>
<p>And don’t overlook nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) such as phenylbutazone and firocoxib as options for managing early arthritis. Not only will they make a horse feel better, but they will stop the destructive chain of events that can lead to further damage. “You can certainly manage a horse with bute and Equioxx,” says Dabareiner, “particularly if they’ve got arthritis in multiple joints. Instead of injecting them all over the place, put them on a low dose of medication and keep an eye out for ulcers and colic.”</p>
<p>“There are hundreds of thousands of people who take a couple of ibuprofen so they can play tennis,” says Markell. “And there are just as many horses out there who might benefit from an Equioxx a day so they can have a great life. If used reasonably and cautiously, NSAIDs are a great thing for horses with arthritis.”</p>
<p>Given how common equine arthritis is, it’s wise to assume that your horse will one day develop the condition. In fact, the smartest horse owners begin to take steps to minimize damage to joints years, and even decades, before the first signs of stiffness appear. And the early efforts pay off when a few simple changes and conscientious choices in management add years of soundness to your horse’s life.</p>
<p><em>This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #429.</em></p>
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		<title>Feeding Options for Senior Horses, Part Two</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/purina-senior-resource-center-feeding-options-for-senior-horse-part-two/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/purina-senior-resource-center-feeding-options-for-senior-horse-part-two/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 18:37:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>klight</dc:creator>
		
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		<description><![CDATA[As our horses get older, we often encounter difficult situations associated with the aging process. In this column, we’ll explore respiratory conditions, body weight concerns, optimal haircoat and]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2002/12/img017.fatponyjpg.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-40766" title="img017.fatponyjpg" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2002/12/img017.fatponyjpg.jpg" alt="" /></a>As our horses get older, we often encounter difficult situations associated with the aging process. In this column, we’ll explore respiratory conditions, body weight concerns, optimal haircoat and skin condition, chronic lameness, and how we may be able to address some of these issues with nutrition.</p>
<p><strong>Respiratory Problems</strong><br />
Some older horses may have respiratory difficulties such as heaves (recurrent airway obstruction or RAO) or inflammatory airway disease (IAD).  If your veterinarian has diagnosed a respiratory condition in your older horse, feeding and environment changes to reduce dust and allergens will be helpful.  Feeding a complete feed such as Purina® Equine Senior® horse feed or Omolene #400® horse feed allows you to decrease or eliminate hay in an attempt to reduce the amount of dust and pollens the horse may inhale.</p>
<p><strong>Suggestions to manage horses with respiratory conditions:<br />
<em>Strictly follow your veterinarian’s instructions with regard to housing/barn access</em></strong><br />
• Avoid excessive exercise.<br />
• Keep pasture mowed if horse is allergic to outdoor pollens.<br />
• Provide adequate ventilation in stalls and barns.<br />
• Do not use dusty bedding in stalls or run-in sheds.<br />
• Consult your veterinarian to determine if anti-inflammatory medications or other medical interventions are indicated.</p>
<p><strong>Body Weight and Condition</strong><br />
As horses age, their metabolism is altered. They usually fall into one of two categories:<br />
• <strong>Easy Keepers</strong> – Reduced metabolism and activity result in excessive weight gain that can be hazardous to the horse’s health.<br />
• <strong>Hard Keepers </strong>– Loss of body weight, condition, and muscle mass caused by reduced digestive efficiency and medical issues affecting metabolic rates.</p>
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</div><p>It is more common to see older horses that are underweight than overweight.  As previously discussed, senior horses tend to have problems with poor dental condition, along with decreased digestive efficiency.  In these situations, Equine Senior® horse feed fed to replace most or all of the forage in the diet can help.</p>
<p>If the older horse is too fat, aim to reduce its weight to maintain a body condition score of about five.  As long as the horse is able to utilize good quality hay, a good option for taking weight off is to feed hay and Purina® Enrich 32® horse feed, or a moderate calorie feed such as Equine Senior® Active Healthy Edge® horse feed.  If the horse cannot adequately chew hay, it may be beneficial to reduce the amount of Equine Senior® horse feed fed, or possibly feed Equine Adult® horse feed, which is lower in calories than Equine Senior® horse feed.</p>
<p>Obese senior horses may suffer from Equine Metabolic Syndrome (sometimes improperly referred to as hypothyroidism or peripheral Cushing’s disease).  These horses tend to store excess fat, especially along the crest of the neck, over the shoulders, on the rump, and in the sheath (geldings), and often exhibit chronic laminitis.  Horses affected with Equine Metabolic Syndrome may also exhibit insulin resistance, in which blood glucose (sugar) is not adequately removed from the blood via the hormone insulin.  At this time, Equine Metabolic Syndrome is not completely understood, but it is believed by researchers that obesity, as well as a genetic susceptibility, are important predisposing conditions.  If Equine Metabolic Syndrome has been diagnosed, it may be helpful to reduce the amount of starch and sugars in the horse’s diet to help decrease the amount of blood glucose.  Equine Senior® horse feed is formulated to contain reduced levels of starch and sugars, and has been fed successfully to many horses with this condition.  Purina® WellSolve L/S® horse feed is also an appropriate option for insulin resistant older horses.   Additionally, it is important to consider the hay and or pasture fed in these situations, since grasses can contain high levels of soluble carbohydrates (starches and sugars).</p>
<p><strong>Haircoat and Skin</strong><br />
Horses of all ages may suffer from poor haircoat and skin condition due to poor nutrition, but aging horses may be especially susceptible.  Good grooming and proper nutrition can go a long way toward addressing these conditions.</p>
<p>An older horse with a long haircoat that sheds late in the year, or incompletely, may be suffering from Pituitary Pars Intermedia Disease (PPID), commonly referred to as Cushing’s disease or syndrome.  PPID is caused by a tumor in the pituitary gland in the horse’s brain.  Symptoms include the long haircoat, loss of muscle mass, and excessive drinking and urination.  If you feel that your horse is exhibiting these symptoms, consult your veterinarian.  Horses with PPID may also exhibit insulin resistance and can benefit from diets lower in starch and sugars and higher in fat and fiber. Equine Senior® horse feed has been fed very successfully to horses with PPID, and was designed to help manage the condition.  However, veterinary care is essential in proper care of horses suffering from PPID.</p>
<p><strong>Chronic Lameness</strong><br />
There are many causes of lameness in aging horses, such as chronic laminitis (founder), arthritis or stiffness from weakened bones due to demineralization.  Veterinary care is important in diagnosing the cause of lameness and alleviating pain.</p>
<p><em><strong>Suggestions to manage older horses with chronic lameness:</strong></em><br />
• Avoid obesity and heavy loads because extra weight burdens aging joints, tendons and ligaments. Overweight horses may also be prone to laminitis.<br />
• Have a reliable farrier provide routine hoof care every 6–8 weeks.<br />
• Provide regular, moderate exercise (if approved by your veterinarian). Gradual workouts at least four times a week are recommended. Avoid abrupt changes in exercise duration or intensity. Ride or walk on softer surfaces such as grass or light, sandy soil if lameness is a problem.</p>
<p>As far as nutrition, the objective is to provide a nutritionally balanced diet with more calories from fat and fiber (as compared to calories from starch/sugars) along with adequate high-quality protein and an appropriate vitamin and mineral balance to meet the aging horse’s needs.  Some horses may also benefit from a high quality oral joint supplement, such as Purina® FreedomFlex™Joint Health Product, added to the diet.</p>
<p>In summary, providing a high quality, nutritionally balanced diet to meet the special needs of the aging horse, such as Purina® Equine Senior® horse feed, Equine Senior® Active Healthy Edge® horse feed or Purina® WellSolve L/S® horse feed in coordination with an overall health and management program as recommended by your veterinarian, will help ensure that your horse will live comfortably in good health for as long as possible.</p>
<hr /><span style="font-style: italic;"><img class="alignleft" title="Dr-Katie-Young" src="http://images.equinetwork.com/purina/purina-katie-young.jpeg" alt="" width="220" height="165" />Katie Young, Ph.D.</span></p>
<p><em>Technical Equine Nutritionist</em><br />
<em>with Purina Animal Nutrition</em></p>
<p><em>Dr. Katie Young is an equine nutritionist with Purina Animal Nutrition. Dr. Young has worked with Purina for more than 11 years, beginning as a consultant, and now in her current role as a Technical Equine Nutritionist. Her responsibilities include providing technical support for the Purina sales force, certified expert dealers and customers, developing and maintaining horse feed formulas and standards, as well as ingredient and production standards.</em></p>
<p><em>Dr. Young has almost 40 years of experience in the horse industry. She started riding as a child in southwest Missouri, first as a barrel racer, and later moving into hunter-jumper. After moving to Texas, Dr. Young continued participating in hunter-jumper shows, as well as dressage and combined training competitions, and played competitive polocrosse. Currently, she rides and competes in dressage and combined training with two of her six horses. Dr. Young has worked as a trainer and riding instructor for more than 30 years, and continues do so in the Kansas City area.</em></p>
<p><em>Dr. Young earned a bachelor's degree from Missouri State University and a doctorate in Equine Nutrition and Exercise Physiology from Texas A&amp;M University.</em></p>
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		<title>Dr. Young Answers More Questions from the Senior Horse Live Chat</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/purina-senior-resource-center-dr-young-answers-more-questions-from-the-senior-horse-live-chat/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/purina-senior-resource-center-dr-young-answers-more-questions-from-the-senior-horse-live-chat/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 May 2013 20:20:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>klight</dc:creator>
		
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		<description><![CDATA[Dr. Katie Young answers more questions from the live chat in the Senior Horse Resource Center forums. ROBarrelHorse: I have an 18 year old broodmare that just recently]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dr. Katie Young answers more questions from the live chat in the <a href="http://seniorhorseforum.equisearch.com/index.php">Senior Horse Resource Center forums</a>.</p>
<p><strong>ROBarrelHorse</strong>: <em>I have an 18 year old broodmare that just recently foaled. She gets free choice grass hay, all she can eat, and 2 pounds of beet pulp, 2 pounds of alfalfa pellets, 1 pound of oats twice a day along with 1 cup of omega horseshine. I believe she is in good body condition. She's not too fat nor thin. Do I need to supplement anything else?</em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Katie Young: </strong>I would suggest at least adding some Enrich 32 to provide the essential nutrients that are typically lacking and/or imbalanced in forages and straight grains.  Depending on your horse’s body weight, feeding rate would be 1-2 lbs/day.</p>
<p>However, since your mare just foaled and is in early lactation (therefore her nutrient requirements are greatly increased over gestation), you may want to consider switching to one of the feeds designed to support milk production as well as growth and development of the foal.  Although your current ration may have supported your mare’s calorie needs through gestation, she may lose condition quickly due to the demands of producing milk for her foal.  Strategy GX, Omolene #300 or Ultium Growth will support your mare through lactation and are also suitable for the foal to eat along with its mom to help meet its own nutrient needs.  Also, it is important during this period to ensure that your mare is maintaining appropriate body weight and condition. We recommend maintaining a broodmare at body condition score 5-7, and not allowing the mare to fall below a score of 5 for best reproductive efficiency.  If you are not familiar with the Body Condition Scoring system, please visit our website <a href="http://www.horse.purinamills.com" target="_blank">www.horse.purinamills.com</a>, and use the Body Condition Score Chart to determine your mare’s body condition score.</p>
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</div><p><strong>Susan Lang: </strong><em>I have a 35 year old American Saddlebred mare with PPID, fractured pelvis from osteoporosis due to PPID, had an eye problem, now resolved, and now skin crud. Add osteoarthritis in her Kees and all 4 fetlocks. I figure if I hurt, she gets the Previcox. I had 5 wonderful years on her once we taught her to be a horse and then a trail horse. My question has to do with her constantly changing her preferences for food. Yes, sloppy beet pulp and senior, then no beet pulp, just groats and Senior, then not much at all (peppermint extract in the food helps). Any other ideas on keeping her appetite up? She really decreases as the South Florida heat climbs. I feed her small amounts 3x a day. </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>We do sometimes see older horses that become more finicky in their feed preferences.  Sometimes adding a small amount of Omolene #400 to the Equine Senior can be helpful.  I’d also suggest checking in with your veterinarian to determine whether the change in appetite may be related to pain issues.  If so, addressing that may level out her appetite preferences.</p>
<p><strong>Horsegirl91: </strong><em>I have a 28 year old mare but she dose not act old. On cold days she is really stiff in the front what can I do? She dose not always come out of it. </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>Your mare may have developed osteoarthritis.  I’d suggest checking with your veterinarian to help determine if that is the case.  If your vet feels that a joint supplement may be of benefit, our new FreedomFlex Joint Supplement has had great results in clinical trials.</p>
<p><strong>MkC:</strong> <em>Hi - I have a 30 yr old Arab mare who is eating about 3 pounds of Safe choice and mixed hay/day. She seems to be doing just fine on this, but I'm starting to wonder if she's on the best feed for her age. What are your thoughts? Thanks for your help! </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>At 30 years, your mare may have some decrease in digestive capabilities, resulting in higher requirements of some nutrients.  Equine Senior Active Healthy Edge was designed specifically for horses such as yours – to meet the nutrient requirements of aging horses that are still well able to chew hay and maintain appropriate body weight and condition.</p>
<p><strong>Dale berger</strong>: <em>I have a 35 year old standerd bred mare. She gets senior feed and hay but has poor pasture. She needs more weight and muscle mass is poor. What else can I do for her? She will only eat so much senior feed and walks away. She is turned out on 5 acres 24/7. That is how she likes it. I don't live at the farm where she is turned out. I go there 2x a day most of the time so feeding is a little bit of a problem. She is turned out with her 21 year old son, so I can't just leave the feed out. She does have some teeth problems as well. </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>Dale, you may want to try mixing a bit of Omolene #400 in with the Equine Senior to help tempt your mare to eat a bit more.  Ideally, she would be fed more meals during the day, but I understand that sometimes that is not feasible.  With the dental problems, she may very well not be receiving adequate nutrition from the hay/pasture, and the Equine Senior is the only part of the ration that is providing nutrients.  If that is the case, increasing the Sr may be your best option.  Again, if she will not eat the amount that she needs, mixing in Omolene #400 may be enough to persuade her to eat an appropriate amount of Sr.</p>
<p><strong>Lauren D.</strong>: <em>Hi! I have a 20 year old thoroughbred/welsh pony. He is a great jumper, and had some issues with his hooves about a year ago. Everything is back on track, and we are now feeding him the Purina Senior Feed. He really likes his feed, and has been acting a little spunky. I was wondering if this had anything to do with him getting a lot more protein and energy from the feed, or if it was the weather change (it was a warm, humid, rain). Thanks! </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>Lauren, Equine Senior is fairly low in sugar/starch, and high in fiber, so is not usually a feed that results in horses exhibiting an increase in energy/activity (unless they were not being fed to meet nutrient requirements prior to the Equine Senior, and now are feeling better and acting the way that they do in good health).  Without knowing more about your pony and the total diet (body weight and body condition score, lbs of Equine Senior per day, pounds of hay/day, pasture, etc.), I can’t determine where you are on meeting nutrient requirements, or if another feed would be more appropriate for your pony (Strategy Healthy Edge, Equine Senior Active, possibly Enrich 32).  If you would like to contact our Customer Service Department, we’d be happy to go through your current feeding program and help determine the best feeding recommendation for you and your pony.</p>
<p><strong>Natasha</strong>: <em>I have a 26 yr old, 15 hh, TB gelding. He is a hard keeper and is semi-retired. He gets 5 quarts of Ultium Performance twice a day to help maintain his weight. Is there another feeding regimen that might perform better for him? </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>Natasha, if your horse is doing well on Ultium and maintaining appropriate body weight and condition, I’d keep doing what you’re doing.  As long as his teeth are in good enough condition to allow him to eat hay/pasture, Ultium is an appropriate feed for older horses.  However, if he gets to the point that he can’t do well on long stemmed forage, then you’d need to look at Equine Senior as a complete feed to replace most or all of the forage in his diet.  Your veterinarian can help you determine if/when his dental condition warrants switching to Equine Senior.</p>
<p><strong>Bellllla.:</strong> <em>Hi! I own a 22 year old quarter horse mare. We currently ride at least 4 days a week and show often. We ride Western, do reining, and do a lot of trail rides. I have noticed that she has A TON of energy. We dont do timed events. She will NOT walk, more of a "jig." I know some of this is in the training, but I was reccomended to change her feed. We currently feed Purina Senior. Is there anything I could change it to to make her have less sugar, but enough other stuff to keep her fat? Shes not underweight, but could definately use a bit more fat. She also eats just fine. Any help? Please I beg you!!! </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>Without knowing more about your horse and the total ration (how much Equine Senior and hay/pasture you are feeding daily, your horse’s body weight and condition), I can’t really make a specific feeding recommendation.  Equine Senior is fairly low in starch/sugar and high in fiber, but Strategy Healthy Edge or Ultium may be good options that are low in starch/sugar, high fiber, but also higher in fat and calories than Equine Senior.  If you would like to contact our Customer Service Department, we would be happy to help you determine the best feeding options for your mare.</p>
<p><strong>Judy Hudson:</strong> <em>My horse is 27. How much endurance is expected at that age. He is in good health </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong><em>Judy, the amount of endurance that your 27-year old would be expected to exhibit is highly variable – dependent on genetics,  conditioning/fitness, management, nutritional status, etc.  I’d suggest that if you are concerned about your horse’s endurance, you may want to check with your veterinarian to determine what you can expect from your horse and if there is anything that may need to be addressed.</em></p>
<p><strong>Laura Tifft</strong>: <em>Hi Katie, I have a33 year old QH mare that I have owned since she was a 4 year old. She is a wonderful horse and has given me some great memories. She can't chew hay anymore, she quids it so I try everything I can to keep her going. (She is able to eat the chaf from alfalfa hay so that helps). She is holding her weight well, but she is so picky about her senior feed, I am getting very frustrated. I have tried just about every brand of senior feed there is. She will like a particular brand for a few feedings, then she won't eat it. Same with every feed I try with her. She does love her sweet feed so I have even tried to mix senior with the sweet feed, but then she won't eat even the mixed feed. So I have supplemented her through this last winter with hay cubes, sweet feed, (senior when I can get her to eat it), and a special mix from a recipe my friend who is majoring in animal nutrition came up for me. I also supplement her feed with Vita-Plus every day. Now that spring is here, she is able to graze. Any suggestions for this old lady? Thanks. </em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>Judy, Omolene #400 may be a good option for you.  While it is not specifically designed for senior horses, we have used it with great success for older horses.  It is a complete sweet feed, designed to replace most or all of the forage in the diet (as is Equine Senior).  I often recommend adding a bit of Omolene #400 to Equine Senior when older horses are picky about eating, but in your situation, using Omolene #400 alone may be the best option.</p>
<p><strong>Captdave:</strong> <em>Boomer is a 19 year old Qtr Gelding. When I enter his corral he sometimes semi pins his ears back. Once out he is the normal very friendly Boomner. What's up?</em></p>
<p><strong>Dr. Young: </strong>I’d suggest checking with your veterinarian to see if there is any type of medical condition that is affecting Boomer’s attitude.  If not, possibly a local trainer could help you out.  This is not an unusual behavior in a horse during feeding time, but it is always a concern if the horse acts on any aggression by biting or kicking.  As a nutritionist, I could help you determine if your feeding program is meeting Boomer’s nutrient requirements, but it sounds like this is not a feeding/nutritional issue.</p>
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		<title>Rider to Rider: How do you defend riding as a sport to those who argue that it isn&#039;t?</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/community/lifestyle/rider-to-rider-how-do-you-defend-riding-as-a-sport-to-those-who-argue-that-it-isnt/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/community/lifestyle/rider-to-rider-how-do-you-defend-riding-as-a-sport-to-those-who-argue-that-it-isnt/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Feb 2013 17:50:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Stacey Nedrow-Wigmore</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Lifestyle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.equisearch.com/?p=67894</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Readers share their secrets for turning skeptics into believers.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/RomeoJumping.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-67898" title="RomeoJumping" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/RomeoJumping.jpg" alt="Horse jumping" width="300" height="236" /></a>You don’t think riding is a sport, eh? Try getting on MY horse and jumping THAT jump and tell me how easy it is.<br />
<strong>Allison, Delaware</strong></p>
<p>This is my biggest pet peeve by far! I usually respond by telling myself to keep calm, and then I say something like: “Oh you think riding isn’t a sport? Well let me tell you something, working around the barn and doing barn chores and riding definitely replace a gym for me. Lifting weights? Easy, why need dumbbells when I lift 50-pound bags of feed, haul and dump big wheel barrows of manure and carry water buckets? That’s just doing chores. I don’t build muscle while riding? Tell that to my thighs! You try going a countless numbers of laps in 2-point! It’s tough work. And contrary to popular belief, the horse isn’t the only one working up a sweat. You actually can burn calories while riding, and I definitely burn calories doing chores! Working with horses gets your blood and heart pumping because you do a huge ton of walking, and sometimes sprinting if a horse is loose or won’t let you halter it! It’s very much a team sport because you and your horse become one being and you work together. All sports come with risks, but no other sport requires you working with a 1,000+ pound animal that could kill you in one second. Other sports, if you fall, you only fall about 2 feet or so. Horseback riding? You fall about 5 feet or more and you also have the risk of being drug if your feet get caught in the stirrups. When we get in the arena, we don’t get time-outs or the ability to have substitutions. It’s one shot and it’s make or break. And you say horses can’t make you money? Horse racing totally can, and not just racing. Other shows can run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars or more for the first place winner. And if horse back riding wasn’t a sport, why would it be in the Olympics? Only real sports are in the Olympics, including riding.” I might say more, but after I rambled all that on, the person starts to believe me. Horseback riding is a real sport and I think it’s the best sport out there.<br />
<strong>Janisse Ruis, via email</strong></p>
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</div><p>Horseback riding isn’t a sport? I’m sure that’s why it’s in the Olympics.<br />
<strong>Lance Whitner, via email</strong></p>
<p>I just tell them to try riding my horse and putting him over a 3-foot fence without falling off.<br />
<strong>Diandra Littledog, via email</strong></p>
<p>I love riding so much and I really wanted to share why I thought it was a sport, so for my college English class, I wrote a paper about it. I was able to describe the incredible athleticism of the horses and the athleticism of the rider. I also got into how we, as riders, are riding and partnering with 1200 lb. animals while jumping a course or posting without stirrups etc. It was really cool to put research into it and see how riding is a sport by the Olympic standards and if people would really try it, they would see it requires just as much strength and burns as much calories as swimming or jogging. If people would try it, try riding without stirrups or doing a dressage test or a cross-country course, or just try trotting with stirrups for the first time, they would appreciate riding more and see it is a sport.<br />
<strong>Rachel McLelland, via email</strong></p>
<p>If it’s in the Olympics, it’s a SPORT!<br />
<strong>Shelly Saaf Talk, via email</strong></p>
<p>I’d tell them to take my horse and try to jump something, or do some dressage.<br />
<strong>Adrielle Moonswan Kash, via email</strong></p>
<p>The people who believe equestrian activities are not a sport are generally the same people who think those that play football, basketball and baseball are the end all athletes. To them I counter that those other sports are actually games that you play with a ball, while our “ball” weighs 1,200 pounds and has a mind of its own. And ask a pentathlete which of the 5 sports (riding, running, fencing, swimming and shooting) they find most difficult.<br />
<strong>Kim Cronenwett, via email</strong></p>
<p>I bring them to a riding lesson, telling them, it’s so easy you have nothing to risk. Seeing them walk after the ride is pretty rewarding! Usually, after this lesson, they never argue that riding horses isn’t a sport!<br />
<strong>Josee Talbot, via email</strong></p>
<p>Interesting. I’ve never heard a non-riding person classify any riding discipline as a non-sport. I guess I’ve been lucky. Isn’t thoroughbred racing referred to as “the sport of kings”? At any rate, there’s truly no argument, as everyone’s fine comments prove. Now, golf - there’s another story!!<br />
<strong>Andrea Stegman, via email</strong></p>
<p>Riding is in the Olympics and it has been officially ranked the hardest sport in the Olympics.<br />
<strong>Rachael Prawitz, via email</strong></p>
<p>Generally, I argue that riding has many nationwide and international competitions and variants, including racing and the Olympics.
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<p> If that doesn’t convince them, I put them bareback on a horse and send them off to jump a few oxers.<br />
<strong>Katherine Johnson, via email</strong></p>
<p>I tell them to jump on the back of the biggest football player they can find, start kicking them in the ribs and try to convince them to go where they want them to go. As they are thinking about that, I say now try that on something that is four times bigger.<br />
<strong>Lisa Bent, via email</strong></p>
<p>I was once asked a similar question by a colleague who queried: “Why would you take riding lessons? Don’t you just sit there?”</p>
<p>I responded: “Let me explain this to you. You’re on an animal who may be galloping at 35 mph. His back, the platform you’re just sitting on, could be lifting and dropping 12 inches every 2 seconds, as he moves forward. Sometimes, in response to some scary stimulus that you are never even aware of, he decides to jump sideways 15 feet and maybe take off in another direction. And you think this isn’t a sport?” He never asked about my riding lessons, again. However, he did seem in question of my sanity.<br />
<strong> Patricia Carando, via email</strong></p>
<p>I tell them yes, there are certain equestrian disciplines that are more of a hobby then a sport. For example, pleasure trail riding does not require much athleticism. However any of the Olympic accepted disciplines require physical and mental strength. You must have the utmost balance, muscle control, mental clarity, stamina and patience to ride a 1500lb animal over a course of 4’ jumps. I then proceed to tell them that I in fact have never had anyone that has actually taken a real riding lesson question the validity of it being a sport.<br />
<strong> Nichol Peterson, via email</strong></p>
<p>It’s included in the Olympics!<br />
<strong> “Crash” aka Sacred Warrior, via email</strong></p>
<p>Honestly, I don’t think anyone has ever said that to me. My physical therapist knows it is good exercise and mentally therapeutic.<br />
<strong> Pretty-Ponies Gifts, via email</strong></p>
<p>I always, always invite them to come try it out on one of my horses if they truly believe it isn’t a physical, active sport.<br />
<strong> Kelley Wick, California</strong></p>
<p>I had a manager once who told me riding was not exercise. I asked him if he could do squats for an hour. Then, the partner we were working with came to my defense.<br />
<strong> Mary Sherfesee, Florida</strong></p>
<p>Whenever people tell me that riding is not a sport and that all you do is sit there and look pretty, I just smile. Then I ask them, have they have ever tried to control a 1200-pound animal? Have they have ever ridden at full speed to a 4-foot high jump? (If you haven’t figured it out by now, I am a jumper.). Have they have ever ridden in mid-August heat or the freezing temperatures of January? Have they sweated buckets or had on so many layers you’ve forgotten how many you have on? Have they ever ridden without stirrups for hours just to get a little bit better? They usually say no to my questions, then I reply, “then you have no clue what we equestrians do – way more than sit there and look pretty.”<br />
<strong> Alison Thomas, Arkansas</strong></p>
<p>Tell them to try doing what you do.<br />
<strong> Jennifer Granade, Georgia</strong></p>
<p>I’ve had this discussion with folks before. It usually ends with me telling them, “Alright, if it’s so easy, let’s see you do it.” Oddly enough, no one’s taken up on that offer.<br />
<strong> Jamie Edgerly, Florida</strong></p>
<p>If someone claims that riding isn’t a sport, they haven’t tried to ride. I just say when you can do a wall sit for half an hour on a moving animal that isn’t very smooth without having sore muscles or complaining, then tell me riding isn’t physically challenging and not a sport. We know that’s not going to happen.<br />
<strong> Erin Berkery, Pennsylvania</strong></p>
<p>I always say you try riding a horse first; then come tell me it’s not a sport. They never have a response to that.<br />
<strong> Amy Titcomb, New York</strong></p>
<p>Let’s see YOU get 1,200 pounds off the ground!<br />
<strong> Aimee Rose Kelly, New York</strong></p>
<p>Fortunately, I haven’t ever had anyone try to tell me that horseback riding it’s not a sport! But, if this were to happen, I would probably invite them to come and ride with me. If the person had the nerve to take me up in my offer, I’m sure they would change their mind!<br />
<strong> Nancy Rosen Resop, New York</strong></p>
<p>I always like to invite them to come riding with me if they don’t believe it. I love the satisfaction of them yelling “How do I stop this thing!?”<br />
<strong> Paige Vrooman, Maine</strong></p>
<p>I invite them out for a month worth of free lessons with me. After a month of posting and two-point and hitting the dirt, they realize just how hard it is. A lot will not come back after the first lesson!<br />
<strong> Amanda Hammons Frye, Texas</strong></p>
<p>I say, “Try and sit on the roof of your car and give it a mind of its own.”<br />
<strong> Rachel Holen, Minnesota</strong></p>
<p>I tell them that after they have cantered a course of 3-foot jumps, they can come back and we will discuss their experience.<br />
<strong> Susan Hughes, New York</strong></p>
<p>First I hand them a very good waiver to sign. Second, I hand them my horse to ride.<br />
<strong> Hunter Heights, Ontario</strong></p>
<p>How can you argue that it’s not a sport when the Olympics awarded it the hardest part of the Olympics? Personally when whoever wants to argue they can ride better than I can on a course at 3-feet on an animal with a mind of their own, I’ll believe them when I see them!<br />
<strong> Chelsea Hagerty, New Jersey</strong></p>
<p>One day while sitting in my 1:30 writing class wishing that I was riding my horse, my teacher decided to push my buttons by calling riding a hobby. She messed with the wrong girl. I explained to her that they do not put hobbies in the Olympics. I also told her riding a horse isn’t just sitting in the saddle and looking pretty, you have to be physically and mentally fit. It’s also not an individual sport, you have a teammate with whom you have to communicate without words. Riding requires muscles that most people don’t even know they have. All the hours of lessons, riding, walking courses, setting up patterns is not just for our health (well it does help) but it’s the fundamentals of a sport. Football players take weeks to learn their plays; we only have minutes to learn our courses (which generally are a lot harder). Riding is just as much of a sport as any other, and if you think it isn’t, come over and ride my 1,300-pound horse and make it do what I do.<br />
<strong> Amanda Keynton, New Jersey</strong></p>
<p>It’s in the Olympics!<br />
<strong> Rachie Rawrrs, Michigan</p>
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		<title>Control Calorie Intake of Pasture-Kept Horses</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/nutrition/hay/control-calorie-intake-of-pasture-kept-horses/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/nutrition/hay/control-calorie-intake-of-pasture-kept-horses/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Feb 2013 16:01:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>kfrank</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hay]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.equisearch.com/?p=67523</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Even a horse on pasture can become obese. Here's how to restrict his calories as part of a weight-loss plan. ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em> </em></p>
<dl id="attachment_3874"  class="wp-caption alignright" style="width:200px"><dt><a href="http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/nutrition/feeds/fit_grazing_muzzle_021110/attachment/grazing_muzzle_200.jpg/"><img class="size-full wp-image-3874" title="grazing_muzzle_200.jpg" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/grazing_muzzle_200.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="237" /></a></dt><dd class="wp-caption-text">A grazing muzzle helps reduce the number of  calories an overweight horse eats. Photo © EQUUS </dd></dl>
<p><em>Q: I’ve been told to feed 2 percent of my horse’s body weight in forage each day. How do I estimate how much weight in grass (in our case a brome/clover mix) he consumes during turnout? He’s about 1,250 pounds and turned out 12 hours a day with another horse on three acres. The grass is chewed pretty short, especially with the hot, dry weather we’ve had. How do I know how much hay to feed during the 12 hours the two horses are in the dry lot? Both are overweight (with a body condition score of about an eight).</em></p>
<p>A: It’s hard to give you an exact answer based on the information provided here (“chewed pretty short,” for example, can mean a half inch to three inches). But I can guarantee the horses will do their best to eat at least 2 percent of their body weight while out on pasture. That said, I still recommend offering them something to munch on for the 12 hours they are off pasture.</p>
<p>But if you are trying to get your horses to
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<p> lose weight, you’ll need to exercise a bit more control over their intake. I would strongly suggest giving them access to the pasture for only a few hours, preferably in the early morning when the sugar (and calorie) content of the grass is at its lowest level. Then, I’d restrict them to the dry lot and offer them 1.5 percent of their ideal body weight in grass hay, divided into two or more feedings, making sure they don’t go for more than five or six hours without feed.</p>
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</div><p>While getting horses to lose weight, it’s important not to starve them, which can lead to other bad habits such as bolting their food or chewing on wood. “Slow feeders” or “nibble nets,” which limit the amount of hay a horse can pull out in each bite, are a great option to make their controlled hay portion last longer and keep them occupied. Be sure to watch your horses to make sure
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<p> one is not able to commandeer the entire ration of hay. Solutions might include putting the hay in a two-sided feeder or placing two portions in entirely separate areas.</p>
<p><strong>Sarah Ralston, VMD, PhD, DACVN<br />
</strong><em>Rutgers, the State University </em><em>of New Jersey<br />
</em><em>New Brunswick, New Jersey</em></p>
<p><em>This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #425.</em></p>
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		<title>Tips for Feeding Your Horse in the Winter</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/health/winter/winter-feeding-for-your-horse/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/health/winter/winter-feeding-for-your-horse/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jan 2013 16:38:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cate Lamm</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Winter Care]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[If you live in a cold area of the country, take the following steps to ensure your horse’s nutritional requirements are met.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<dl id="attachment_66139"  class="wp-caption alignright" style="width:200px"><dt><a rel="attachment wp-att-66139" href="http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/health/winter/winter-feeding-for-your-horse/attachment/healthnyland2/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-66139 " title="HEALTHNYLAND2" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/HEALTHNYLAND2-200x300.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="300" /></a></dt><dd class="wp-caption-text">During the winter in cold climes, give your horse high-protein alfalfa hay to stoke his internal furnace. Photo By Heidi Nyland Melocco</dd></dl>
<p>If you live in a cold area of the country, take the following steps to ensure your horse’s nutritional requirements are met.</p>
<p><strong>1. Increase his ration.</strong> In cold regions, the energy that a horse would normally use under saddle goes toward maintaining his body temperature. If your horse is losing weight during the winter, offer him plenty of hay. (See below.)</p>
<p><strong>2. Supplement wisely. </strong>A little extra fat for insulation can help keep your horse warm in the winter. However, although grain and fat are higher in calories than hay, they won’t build an insulating layer of fat very rapidly. Use these supplements to maintain his weight or to add just a few pounds over time.</p>
<p><strong>3. Consider high-protein hay.</strong> If the weather is really cold and you want to stoke your horse’s internal furnace, then feed him an extra flake of high-protein hay, such as alfalfa, every day. When his normal protein needs are being adequately met, the body will use the excess protein for energy, adding to his body-fat stores. Also, as he digests and metabolizes this extra protein, he’ll produce extra heat, raising his core body temperature by a degree or so for about half a day (significant in subzero weather).</p>
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</div><p>If alfalfa hay isn’t available, you can feed your horse three to four pounds of alfalfa pellets once or twice per day. Work with your veterinarian to design an ideal winter diet for your horse.</p>
<p><strong>4. Offer clean, warm water.</strong> Your horses will generally drink enough water if he has have good access to water that’s remotely drinkable. However, his intake might decline if the water is very cold and/or contaminated with debris. This can lead to dehydration and even colic, the No. 1 killer of horses.</p>
<p>To encourage your horse to drink, keep the water bucket clean, and use a safe heater to keep the water above 50 degrees. If he’s eating well, and seems bright and cheerful, with no signs of abdominal discomfort, he’s probably drinking all he needs.</p>
<p><em>Susan E. Garlinghouse, DVM, is the owner of All Creatures Animal Hospital in Montclair, California. Click on the link above for more equine-nutrition articles from Dr. Garlinghouse. </em></p>
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		<title>Equine Winter Skin Care</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/horse-journal/equine-winter-skin-care/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/horse-journal/equine-winter-skin-care/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Nov 2012 11:26:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy Foley</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Horse Care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Horse Journal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dandruff]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[skin disease]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[winter coats]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[winter horse skin]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.equisearch.com/?p=64479</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[“Scratches” often develop in the heel/pastern area on horses kept under very muddy conditions. The same treatment described above for Dermatophilus will work well for scratches. ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<dl id="attachment_64484"  class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width:300px"><dt><a href="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/red-blanket-sally.gif"><img class="size-medium wp-image-64484" title="red-blanket-sally" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/red-blanket-sally-300x200.gif" alt="" width="300" height="200" /></a></dt><dd class="wp-caption-text">Your horse may enjoy it, but that cold air and snow can set the state for skin problems.</dd></dl>
<p>By far the most common problem with long winter coats is Dermatophilus infection (rain rot, mud fever). It begins as small areas of scabbing which come off on scratching with the hair intact. If you aren’t careful to check the skin with your fingers, this can get out of control before you realize it.</p>
<p>Wear the thinnest gloves possible when grooming so that you can feel any small bumps. Ski-liner gloves are a good choice and are priced at from $15 to $20 in most cases. Make sure that at some time during grooming you directly hand check common problem areas like the back, rump and lower legs for bumps, cuts or scabs.</p>
<p>Dermatophilus thrives with moisture and low oxygen conditions. Exposing the infected areas to the air by picking off the scabs is essential for healing and to prevent spread. In fact, if you catch it in early enough that may be all that is necessary to solve the problem.</p>
<p>If the infection is widespread, the scabs become very thick and tightly adherent to the skin. Removing them by hand is difficult and very painful for the horse. Shampoos and rinses are the usual treatment, but often impossible in winter. As an alternative, clip the hair over involved areas, apply a tea-tree-based sheath cleaner like Triple J Sheath Cleaner, (<a href="http://www.triplejproducts.com" target="_blank">www.triplejproducts.com</a>, 888-778-8100) or  Farnam Excalibur Sheath Cleaner (<a href="http://www.farnamhorse.com" target="_blank">www.farnamhorse.com</a>, 800-234-2269) thinned with a small amount of water.</p>
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</div><p>Allow this to remain in place for 5 to 10 minutes then remove by scrubbing briskly with a moistened sponge or nylon pot scrubber. Repeat as needed until scabs are all removed. Once the scabs are gone, you can switch to spraying on diluted Healing Tree’s TeaClenz  (<a href="http://www.healing-tree.com" target="_blank">www.healing-tree.com</a>, 800-421-6223) or continue daily sheath-cleaner application until healed. WARNING: It’s not a good idea to mix chemicals with herbal products, or herbals with other herbal ingredients.</p>
<p>“Scratches” often develop in the heel/pastern area on horses kept under very muddy conditions. The same treatment described above for Dermatophilus will work well for scratches. However, to get them cleared up you will have to keep the horse in a dry environment.  Desitin (the diaper-rash product) or Corona (<a href="http://www.coronaproducts.com" target="_blank">www.coronaproducts.com</a>, 800-241-6996) are both good preventatives and will help heal minor irritations. They also repel water, helping to keep the area dry.</p>
<p>Once healed, if conditions are still muddy, try spraying the heels and pasterns with Tea Pro Equine Healing Spray (<a href="http://www.healing-tree.com" target="_blank">www.healing-tree.com</a>, 800-421-6223). Allow it to dry thoroughly (the hair dryer comes in handy!), then coat the area well with petroleum jelly. Try to bring the horse in every day and clean the lower legs.</p>
<p>True ringworm is actually rare, but many fungal infections are dubbed “ringworm” nevertheless, especially when the horse develops circular areas of hair loss. In the warmer months, these are more likely to be caused by migrating threadworm larvae and will respond to deworming with ivermectin. If you see this in the winter, fungal is more likely. DermaCloth (<a href="http://www.kinetictech.net" target="_blank">www.kinetictech.net</a>, 877-786-9882) and Equinature’s Aloe and T-Tree Wipes (<a href="http://www.equinature.com" target="_blank">www.equinature.com</a>, 774-217-8057) are both wipes, making them an easy first thing to try during the cold months.</p>
<p>If that doesn’t work, get the human athlete’s foot product Lotrimin, available at any drug store. This is one time we recommend skipping generics. Other brands with different active ingredients can sting irritated skin. Be sure to wear gloves when treating suspected fungal infections, and do not share grooming tools or horse clothing with other horses.</p>
<p>Winter used to be the high-risk season for lice, which cause extreme itching. However, they’re rarely a problem today because lice can be effectively killed by the standard deworming dose of ivermectin. Ivermectin does not kill the eggs, however, so deworm the horse again in two weeks.</p>
<p><strong>DANDRUFF. </strong>The combination of cold, dry air and less circulation to the skin when temperatures are cold can result in some degree of dry, scaly skin. You know how it goes—the more aggressively you groom, the more dandruff seems to appear! Your grooming routine and nutrition can help here.</p>
<p>Think thorough but gentle when grooming in the winter. Use a soft rubber curry to reach all the way down to skin level for a good massage effect (we strongly recommend the old-fashioned flexible oval curry comb, selling for $4 or less).</p>
<p>Follow with a stiff dandy brush, finishing with a soft body brush and/or towel. Better yet, follow with a good vacuuming (we like Rapid Groom, <a href="http://www.electriccleaner.com" target="_blank">www.electriccleaner.com</a>, 800-456-9821; about $370). A vacuum will cut the time and effort of removing the loosened dirt and skin tremendously. It’s a worthwhile purchase, as it can last 10 to 15 years or more (when cared for properly). If your horse’s dander seems excessive, the cause may be nutritional. Hay has only half as much fat as grass because the fragile, anti-inflammatory omega-3 essential fatty acids are lost.</p>
<p>Although the skin and coat play important roles in your horse’s health, if calories and nutrients are in short supply, they’ll be diverted to more critical organs. Feed the horse, on average, an additional 2 pounds of hay for every 10° it drops below 40°, which is the horse’s critical temperature.</p>
<p><strong>MUD WOES.</strong> Mud irritates the skin and traps moisture and organisms in a low-oxygen environment, setting the stage for skin disease. For mud on the lower legs, don’t hesitate to hose and wash it off even in winter.</p>
<p>For mud on the body, or if you can’t wash the lower legs, try to remove as much mud off the surface as you can before using a brush or curry. As soon as you use a tool, some mud gets down to skin level. The smooth edge of a metal shedding blade is good for this.</p>
<p>Once you have as much off that way as you can, pick up the curry and get to work. Again, a vacuum is worth its weight in gold. Spray coat polishes and detanglers (see January 2011), like Absorbine Show Sheen (www.absorbine.com, 800-628-9653), help keep mud from sticking to manes and tails, and  make removing it easier.</p>
<p><strong>Barn Hair Dryer. </strong>Don’t laugh. If you don’t have a hair dryer in the barn now, you’ll be amazed how often you reach for it once you have one. Dry = warm when it comes to the horse’s coat. A wet coat loses its insulating capacity. If the horse gets wet, towel the coat and fluff it up, then finish the job quickly with a hair dryer. (Be sure the dryer is cool before you put it away.)</p>
<p><strong>Shedding Season. </strong>If you survive the winter without having to deal with a skin problem, you have one more hurdle ahead of you—spring shedding. Keeping up vigorous grooming and good nutrition as described in our article, as that’s the foundation for rapid shedding. For tools, we reach first for our $4 rubber oval curry, getting shedding and currying done at once.</p>
<p>If the horse is really hairy or you find all that currying too much work, you’ll like the $55 FURminator (www.furminator.com, 888-283-1620) and the $25 FurBuster (www.bamboopet.com, 877-224-7387). Yes, they’re much more expensive than a standard shedding blade, but they’re worth it. We’ve found that the FURminator gets the job done more quickly than the less-expensive FurBuster.</p>
<p>Remember that exercised horses shed out quicker than the couch potatoes. This makes sense, since exercise increases blood flow to the skin and the production of natural skin oils, which will help ease out the old hair.</p>
<p>If your horses are stalled, you may speed up shedding by using artificial light to extend the daytime. Shedding is triggered by alterations in the brain’s sensitivity to hormones, including prolactin. This in turn is triggered by increasing day length. Using a 100-watt bulb in the horse’s stall for 12 hours on, 12 hours off, may help.</p>
<p>For more straightforward how-to articles on caring for your horses, <a href="http://www.horse-journal.com" target="_blank">subscribe to Horse Journal</a>, The Product, Care and Service Guide for People Who Love Horses. Horse Journal accepts no advertising.</p>
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		<title>Feed Your Horse a Balanced Diet</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/nutrition/feed-your-horse-a-balanced-diet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/nutrition/feed-your-horse-a-balanced-diet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Nov 2012 16:54:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Stacey Nedrow-Wigmore</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Feed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nutrition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Supplements]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.equisearch.com/?p=64378</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Determining whether your horse is getting the right nutrients doesn’t need  to be complicated.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<dl id="attachment_64381"  class="wp-caption alignright" style="width:300px"><dt><a href="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/2012-Feeding_DSC24681.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-64381" title="Weighing feed" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/2012-Feeding_DSC24681.jpg" alt="Weighing horse feed with scale" width="300" height="453" /></a></dt><dd class="wp-caption-text">Get an accurate picture of what your horse is eating every day by weighing his feed. </dd><dd class="wp-caption-text"> © Stacey Nedrow-Wigmore</dd></dl>
<p>Your horse doesn’t seem as sharp as he did a few months ago, and his coat is losing its glow. Does he need a supplement? Should you change his feed?</p>
<p>Before you can answer those questions, you need to answer two others: First, does he have a health problem? Second, is his diet balanced? The first one is easy—just call your veterinarian and schedule a visit for a complete checkup. But determining if your horse’s current rations provide the right amounts of the nutrients he needs may seem daunting. You’ll find reams of nutritional information in books and online, much of it highly detailed. The numerical data and technical jargon can deep-fry your mind.</p>
<p>The process doesn’t need to be complicated, says Sarah Ralston, VMD, associate director of the Rutgers Equine Science Center and a specialist in equine nutrition. You won’t even need higher math skills. In this article, you’ll find out how to balance your horse’s diet using some simple tools. Want instant gratification? See “Cut to the Chase” below for shortcuts.</p>
<p><strong>What Does He Need?</strong><br />
All horses need the same essential nutrients—energy to fuel body functions, protein to build and repair body tissues and produce enzymes and hormones, and certain vitamins and minerals—but the amounts required by individual horses vary. To figure out if your horse is getting what he should from his diet, start with basic information about him:</p>
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</div><p>Weight: Feed recommendations are generally based on amounts per pound or per kilogram of mature body weight, so this is essential information. A livestock scale will tell you your horse’s precise current weight, but a careful estimate with a weight tape (easily obtained from feed stores) will be fine.</p>
<p>If your horse is underweight or overweight, base his feeding program on optimum weight rather than current weight, Dr. Ralston says. A body-condition scoring system (such as the Henneke scale, online at <a href="http://www.equisearch.com"><em>www.equisearch.com</em></a> and other websites) can help you decide if you should go with his current weight. Check the table of typical weight and height ranges for various breeds at <a href="http://www.equi-analytical.com" target="_blank"><em>www.equi-analytical.com</em></a> (the website of Equi-Analytical Laboratories, which does hay and feed analyses) for an idea of normal weight for horses of his breed and body type.</p>
<p>Age: Horses have different needs at different stages in life. Young horses need extra energy, protein and the right amounts of minerals, such as calcium and phosphorus for bone and tissue development. Broodmares’ nutritional requirements jump during late pregnancy and lactation. Senior horses may develop metabolic problems that call for changes in diet.</p>
<p>Work level: Work increases energy needs. The increase isn’t very great for horses in light to moderate work (five hours a week or less), but a horse in very heavy work (upper-level eventing, racing, endurance) may need twice as many calories as a horse who just loafs in the pasture. Sweat losses associated with hard work dramatically increase the need for water and salt, too.</p>
<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0">
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<td width="551" valign="top">
<h2>Cut to the Chase</h2>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="551" valign="top">Calculating   how much of each nutrient your horse’s total diet provides is a   time-consuming, mind-numbing chore, you say? You’re right—and it’s a chore   you may not need to do. Here are some shortcuts to the bottom line.</p>
<p><em>Use   software.</em> The   National Research Council developed a free computer program that does the   work for you; it’s online at <em><a href="http://nrc88.nas.edu/nrh/">http://nrc88.nas.edu/nrh/</a></em>. Enter   information about your horse, and it shows you the average nutritional needs   for horses of his age, weight and work level. Enter information on the feeds   he gets, and it spits back an analysis that shows how closely his diet meets   the guidelines.</p>
<p>Want   more information? There are several other programs horse owners can use, says   Peggy Miller, associate professor and Extension horse specialist at the   University of Iowa. They’re based on the 2007 guidelines, but some have   larger feed “libraries” and can perform additional functions, such as   formulating rations on a least-cost basis. However, these programs aren’t   free, and they may be most useful for breeding farms and other large   operations. They include REINS (Relevant Equine Intensive Nutrition Software)   from the Iowa State Extension store, Equi-Balance software from Performance   Horse Nutrition and Horse Ration Formulation 2007 from Creative Formulation   Concepts.</p>
<p><em>Read feed   labels.</em> NRC’s   program works like a charm for the forages and concentrates it lists, but you   won’t find commercial mixed-grain feeds on the menu. If you use those feeds,   you can still use the program. Just leave out information about the   concentrate and turn to the commercial feed label to see if it fills deficits   (or provides an excess) of any nutrients.</p>
<p>The   guaranteed analysis shows the levels of crude protein and, often, lysine,   crude fat, crude fiber and minerals, including calcium, phosphorus and   vitamin A. The ingredients list may give more information—you may see that   the feed contains vitamins and minerals not listed in the analysis, for   example—although quantities aren’t shown. You won’t find a number for   digestible energy, but you can deduce whether it’s high or low. Feeds with   high levels of fat (say, 8 percent) and grains in the ingredients list likely   provide more energy than those with low fat levels (say, 2 percent) and lots   of forage-based ingredients.</p>
<p><em>Choose a   brand-name balanced feed.</em> Many   brand-name commercial feeds are already balanced for horses at different life   stages and work levels, and they’re designed to complement grass or legume   hays. You’ll find this information on the label, too. If your horse is   getting one of these feeds in the amounts recommended in the label’s feeding   directions, along with good-quality forage, put down your pencil and stop   worrying. “Resist the urge to buy supplements just because they are there,”   says Dr. Ralston.</td>
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		<title>To Blanket Your Horse…or Not?</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/health/winter/to-blanket-your-horse-or-not/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/health/winter/to-blanket-your-horse-or-not/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Oct 2012 20:22:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cate Lamm</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Winter Care]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[There seems to be an unwritten law of nature that no two people can agree on a perfect temperature. That same unwritten law says that no two horse people will agree about blanketing horses—when to blanket, how heavy a blanket to use, and the myriad variations of those questions.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-63823" href="http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/health/winter/to-blanket-your-horse-or-not/attachment/horseblanketing/"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-63823" title="HORSEBLANKETING" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/HORSEBLANKETING-248x300.jpg" alt="" width="248" height="300" /></a>If you've ever shopped for an electric blanket for your bed, you may have been surprised to find that there were two sets of controls. That’s because there seems to be an unwritten law of nature that no two people can agree on a perfect temperature. That same unwritten law says that no two horse people will agree about blanketing horses—when to blanket, how heavy a blanket to use, and the myriad variations of those questions.</p>
<p>Rather than tell you any hard and fast rules (since there are none), we’ll give you some guidelines to help you figure out what’s best for your horse and his situation. You might be surprised to find that, in some cases, not blanketing is actually the best decision.</p>
<p><strong>Equine Thermal Energy</strong></p>
<p>We’ll begin by looking at the horse himself. Horses stay warm much better than people do, and they are quite comfortable even when you and I might be reaching for a jacket. In short, you can’t determine a horse’s need for a blanket by how chilly you feel.</p>
<p>The primary way a horse gets or stays warm is by digesting hay. Digestion is really a fermentation process, and one of the by-products is heat. When your horse is facing a cold night, the first consideration is to provide him with plenty of hay to keep that furnace burning. And in order for that digestion process to work well, he needs water. Ideally it won’t be ice cold.</p>
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</div><p>The horse’s bulk is a great help in keeping warmth in. Think of how thick a horse’s body is, relative to the slender frame of a human. Just as a large block of ice takes longer to thaw than a smaller chunk, a large, warm body stays warmer longer than a thin one.</p>
<p>On top of that, a horse’s winter coat has the ability to fluff up, the hair literally standing on end, thereby creating a warm layer of air around the horse. Long “guard” hairs create an additional layer and fend off light rain or snow.</p>
<p>Even though it’s cold out, an average horse in good condition, eating plenty of roughage, and wearing his own hair coat is probably going to stay warm—as long as he can stay dry and isn’t in direct wind.</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>When to Blanket</strong></p>
<p>The farther you get from the ideal, the more appropriate it is to consider a blanket. Not every horse has a wooly coat. Some breeds of horses have thinner coats, and others have thin coats from blanketing, being under lights, living in a warm climate or barn, or having been clipped. Even within a barn, you may find one horse who doesn’t need a blanket, another who just needs a sheet at night, and another who seems to require a winter parka.</p>
<p>But a fuzzy coat isn’t the only determining factor. Consider whether the horse is underweight, isn’t eating enough roughage, isn’t able to get out of the wind or wet, or has some health concern that compromises his ability to stay warm. Remember, though, when you put a blanket on your horse, you squash that natural insulating layer of air in his coat. In borderline situations, he may actually be more comfortable wearing his natural blanket than your store-bought one.</p>
<p>It’s usually necessary to blanket a body-clipped horse. You can layer blankets, the way you might wear a light sweater under your coat. And for any horse out in wet weather, keeping him dry is key to keeping him warm.</p>
<p>If the horse isn’t body clipped, you have the dual challenge of cooling the horse down after a workout without allowing him to get chilled. You’ll need to put towels or a wool cooler under a light sheet and remove the towel or cooler as it gets damp.</p>
<p>With any horse, you should periodically reach under the blanket to be sure the horse isn’t hot or sweaty, especially a horse who has been worked, because he can appear cool but then get sweaty again once he is back in the stall.</p>
<p>Though horses adapt to changes in climate, they don’t adapt well to rapid changes. So the horse who was fine when left unblanketed last week might benefit from light blanketing tonight as the leading edge of a cold front comes through. Remember that the big worry during weather changes is that the horse may colic, often due to decreased drinking. So while blanketing is important, having not-too-cold water is critical.</p>
<p>Some owners think they’re doing their horses a favor by closing up a barn to keep their horses warm. But they’re also closing in ammonia fumes and allowing moisture to build up. So instead of heating the barn, it’s better to blanket the horses and allow for plenty of ventilation.</p>
<p>It takes calories to stay warm, and some horses need all the calories they can eat. That’s especially true of older horses who have difficulty chewing or holding weight, and of horses who have been through a health or shipping stress. In those cases, blanketing helps conserve energy and boosts their ability to stay warm.</p>
<p>If blanketing is the best option for your horse, try to avoid having him wear the blanket 24/7. Even a little unblanketed turnout time in the sunlight on a winter day will do most horses good—whether to have a good roll or just to give their skin a breather from the blanket.</p>
<p><strong>Blanket Commitments</strong></p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-63822" href="http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/health/winter/to-blanket-your-horse-or-not/attachment/horse_blanket/"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-63822" title="HORSE_BLANKET" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/HORSE_BLANKET-300x211.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="211" /></a>Once you’ve decided that your horse might benefit from blanketing, you still have plenty of smaller decisions to make. Does he need a light blanket or sheet for daytime and a heavier blanket for night? Will he be turned out, necessitating a waterproof blanket, or does he just need a stable blanket for time indoors? Will he be turned out with other horses who will run and play? If so, he needs a blanket that will survive that.</p>
<p>Or will you turn him out blanketless, but then groom him before re-blanketing? If he rolls in the mud with his blanket, what will he wear while you’re washing the muddy one?</p>
<p>And aside from the cost of buying a blanket or two, there’s the time commitment that goes with blanketing and unblanketing, day after day. Who is going to do that work? If your horse is cold, blanketing may be your best option. But if you have choices, such as whether to body clip him or not, other time and nuisance factors come into play.</p>
<p>There’s the matter of keeping the blanket clean. Depending on the blanket materials, that may mean brushing the underside of it daily—or at least checking it—to remove any hay, hair, or stickers that could potentially rub against your horse’s coat. It may mean washing the blanket, which also means drying it thoroughly before putting it back on your horse. This likely means you’re going to need a second blanket. Don’t forget that it’s inevitable that you’ll have to do some repairs—even if it’s only to reattach a buckle.</p>
<p>Even with a blanket, which will help keep your horse clean, you should groom your horse every day. He’ll get itchy wearing a blanket, just as you would if you wore the same sweater day in and day out.</p>
<p>If your horse is turned out with his blanket, you have to make sure that the fabric doesn’t absorb and hold water when it gets soaked. A wet blanket will get a horse cold very quickly. Read the labels carefully. “Water-resistant” may be fine in a light mist, but you need “waterproof” if your horse is to stay out in the weather. And that means you’ll have to re-weatherproof it after cleaning.</p>
<p>Of course, you’ll have to be sure that the blanket fits well and doesn’t rub your horse’s coat. Even if it seems to fit, keep an eye out for the telltale hairs that seem as though they’ve been shortened, as if newly clipped or roughed up. This often happens over the hips, on the shoulders, or around the neck opening or withers after the horse has been wearing the blanket for a while.</p>
<p>When the hair gets rubbed, the skin will become tender also. For some horses, even a good-fitting blanket will eventually rub, so he may need an undergarment that will allow the blanket to slip along his shoulders more easily.</p>
<p>And even when everything works perfectly, you can still come home to find your horse naked and your blanket investment shredded by a naughty pasture mate.</p>
<p>As in most things, getting by as nature intended is generally your best option. But when blanketing is the right choice, you get to enjoy the warm feeling of knowing you’ve done your best for your buddy.</p>
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		<title>Putting Weight on Your Horse for Winter</title>
		<link>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/putting-weight-on-your-horse-for-winter/</link>
		<comments>http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/putting-weight-on-your-horse-for-winter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Sep 2012 00:30:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cbarakat</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Feed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Horse Care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nutrition]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[A skinny horse won't do well in winter weather. Here's how to add weight to your horse before the temperatures drop.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<dl id="attachment_40376"  class="wp-caption alignright" style="width:300px"><dt><a href="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2002/03/img038.winterjpg.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-40376" title="img038.winterjpg_copyright_EQUUS_Magazine" src="http://equisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2002/03/img038.winterjpg-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></dt><dd class="wp-caption-text">Putting weight on your horse before the seasons change will leave him better able to cope with cold weather. ©EQUUS Magazine</dd></dl>
<p>If your horse is on the skinny side, take steps now to put some pounds on him before winter arrives. A horse with a good body weight will fare better in chilly weather because a little fat provides insulation from the cold as well as a stockpile of energy to maintain his core body temperature.</p>
<p>But you don’t want to get him too fat, either. A good target is a body0 condition score (BCS) of 5, which means his ribs aren’t visible but can be easily felt, the fat around his tailhead is soft and “spongy,” his withers are rounded, and his shoulders and neck blend smoothly with the rest of this body. If you’re unsure of how to assess your horse’s condition, consult with your veterinarian---you’ll want to rule out any illnesses or dental troubles that might be causing your horse to be too thin.</p>
<p>If you do want to add pounds to your horse, you’ll need to boost his caloric intake safely. A diet too rich in sugars or carbohydrates can increase the risk of serious health issues, including colic and laminitis. Here are some tactics you can try:</p>
<p>• <strong>Add another meal of hay to his daily ration, or feed it free-choice. </strong>High-quality, leafy hay is less likely to be wasted than coarse, stemmy hay. A slow feeder, which allows a horse to pull out only a few stems with each bite, enables you to offer more hay at a time while also reducing waste.</p>
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</div><p>• <strong>Switch to a higher calorie feed. </strong>Many slim horses are slow, picky eaters who may not finish bigger portions of their usual grain. Instead, try a feed that will provide more calories in the same-size meal. To avoid health risks, look for feeds that supply extra calories from fat rather than sugars or carbohydrates.</p>
<p>• <strong>Add oil to his existing ration. </strong>Corn or other vegetable oils add calories to a horse’s meal in the form of fat. And, since fat is digested differently, without the risks posed by sugars or carbohydrates, oil is one of the safest ways to put weight on a horse. Most horses will willingly eat up to a half cup of oil at each feeding.</p>
<p>As you implement your new feeding plan, keep track of your progress with notes and pictures of your horse’s body, then taper off the extra calories before he gains too much weight. Obesity can also cause serious health problems.</p>
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