The problems started with stiffness in your horse’s right hock. Now the hock seems better, but he’s off in front. And he’s definitely not his normal, perky self—he mopes around in his paddock, and he pins his ears and tries to move away when you groom him.

On-again, off-again lameness, low energy levels, a cranky attitude—those signs could point to something as simple as overwork. But Lyme disease could produce all those problems, and it may be a growing problem for horses in parts of the United States. Lyme disease can have long-term complications that include damage to your horse’s joints, skin, nervous system and even vision.

A bacterial disease spread by tick bites, Lyme is a problem for people, dogs and other animals, not just horses. As the ticks that carry this disease slowly expand their range, cases and concern are increasing. Is your horse at risk? If he develops Lyme disease, how will you know, and what should you do? Can you protect him? This article will help you make sense of the threat.

Who’s at Risk?
Lyme disease takes its name from Lyme, Connecticut, where it was first identified in the 1970s. It’s now the most common vector-borne disease in the United States, according to the US Centers for Disease Control, which tracks human cases. The disease has popped up in ­almost every state, but CDC figures show that most cases occur in the northeastern, mid-Atlantic and north-central states, with pockets in Pacific and southern states.

While no one collects national statistics on Lyme disease in horses, cases tend to occur in the same areas as human cases, says Thomas J. Divers, DVM, of the Cornell University School of Veterinary Medicine. Those are all places where the disease-carrying blacklegged ticks—mainly deer ticks and Western blacklegged ticks (photo above)—are common. In some areas up to half the blacklegged tick population may harbor the spiral-shaped bacteria, Borrelia ­burgdorferi (Bb), that cause Lyme disease.

The ticks have three life stages (larva, nymph and adult) and need a blood meal ­before they can molt into the next stage. They pick up the bacteria as larvae and nymphs by feeding on the blood of infected mice, and they transmit the infection to their next hosts—human, horse, dog, deer or any passing mammal or bird. They seem most likely to feed on horses as adults. In cold-winter regions, adults typically appear in early fall, spend the winter dormant in brush and leaf litter and come out again in early spring. This makes early spring and fall prime times for infection. But horses can get Lyme disease whenever infected ticks are active.

CDC statistics show a steady increase in reported cases. In some areas, including parts of Maryland and Virginia and northern New England, human case numbers are up sharply. Maine, for example, went from no cases reported in 1988 to 970 in 2009. Maine state veterinarian Don Hoenig, VMD, says that Lyme disease is turning up in new areas as the vectors—deer ticks—increase their geographic distribution. “We have ticks where we had none six or seven years ago,” he says. Several factors likely contribute to the spread:

• Wildlife populations: Deer and other wildlife hosts, including migratory birds, can carry the ticks and move them to new areas.
• Changing landscapes: In many areas abandoned farmland is reverting to forest, and the ticks prefer forest habitat to fields. They’re often found in the brush of the forest understory and forest edge—and suburban yards, which mimic that habitat.
• Warming climate: Warmer winters ­allow ticks to expand their range northward and to spread disease for more of the year, as they are active whenever the temperature is above 40 F.

Reports of Lyme disease have also ­increased as people have ­become more aware of it. “We’re looking for it more,” Dr. Hoenig says. Lyme is now so prevalent in Maine, he adds, that it’s no longer on the state department of agriculture’s list of reportable diseases.

If your horse is in a region where blacklegged ticks live, he’s at risk. But even if he’s bitten, he may not get sick. Even if a tick is packing the bacteria, it generally must attach and feed for more than 24 hours before it transmits the infection to its new host. And even when a horse is infected, he may not develop any signs of the disease. “There must be a distinction between infection and disease,” says Dr. Divers. Infection is common where the disease-carrying ticks are prevalent—nearly half of adult horses in some areas of the Northeast have been infected. “Clinical disease [disease that produces recognizable signs] does not appear to be common in horses, although we do not have data on this,” he says.

Our advice: Use this list to inspire your own customized tally of what you need to pack for every road trip. Save two separate lists—one for longer shows and one for short weekend events. Make copies and use a fresh one for every trip, marking things off as you pack them. Then stick to the list, and you’ll have everything you need.

Tip: When you get to a show and realize that you did miss something that wasn’t on your list, set a reminder on your smart phone to add it to your template as soon as you get home. You’ll never forget it again!

Paperwork

• Original or photocopy of registration papers
• Coggins certificate, if needed
• Health certificate, if needed
• Association membership and amateur/youth cards
• Show bill
• Rulebook
• Paper and pens/pencils
• Horse and personal insurance card
• Map/directions to the show facility; phone number to call in case you get lost
• Emergency equine roadside service phone number (try USRider Equestrian Motor Plan: [800] 844-1409, USRider.org)
• Cash/checkbook/credit cards

Binder Organization
Set up a binder for each of your horses, complete with a copy of the horse’s registration, any health papers or certificates, and other necessary information about that horse.

Gear

• Saddles
• Saddle pads or blankets (schooling and show)
• Cinch or girth
• Bridles (schooling and show)
• Bits
• Tie down and/or martingale
• Breast collar
• Show halter/lead
• Draw reins, if you use them
• Extra pair of reins
• Extra stirrup leathers
• Spurs
• Chain shank
• Whip/crop
• Protective legwear
• Spare bridle screws and screwdriver
• Leather hole punch
• Tack trunk
• Saddle covers

Horse Care Items

• Feed
• Feed bucket or tub
• Supplements
• Hay
• Hay net
• Water buckets (two per stall)
• Bucket hooks and/or snaps
• Stall fans
• Extension cords
• Duct tape and bungee cords
• Tools
• Molasses, cider vinegar, Jell-O, or Kool-Aid (to flavor water so your horse will drink)
• Electrolyte paste or powder (if it’s hot; consult your vet)
• Manure fork and bucket or wheelbarrow
• Broom
• Bedding shavings or straw (if you’re not required to buy on site)
• Horse blanket and hood, if needed
• Sheet or fly net/fly mask
• Cooler, if needed
• Shipping boots
• Halter and lead rope (two of each)
• Tail/leg wraps
• Longe line
• Treats

Be Prepared
Take at least one extra feeding’s worth of hay and grain per horse. If you’re delayed getting home for some reason, you’ll still be able to keep the horses’ feeding on schedule.

Tack Care

• Old toothbrush for cleaning saddle stitching and tooling
• Saddle oil
• Sponges/cloths
• Roll of paper towels
• Silver polish
• Small bucket
• Bit wipes
• Saddle soap/leather cleaner

Gone Fishing
Stock a tackle box with leather cleaner, small brushes, rags, Chicago screws, a screwdriver, and any other tack-care needs.

First Aid (for you and your horse)

• Complete vet kit (consult with your vet for suggested items)
• Equine first-aid book (such as Hands- On Horse Care, available at HorseBooksEtc.com)
• Your vet’s phone number/local vet’s phone number
• Iodine-based antiseptic solution (Betadine)
• Triple antibiotic ointment
• Nonstick gauze pads
• Self-conforming gauze rolls
• Stretch bandaging tape
• Elastic adhesive tape
• Scissors
• Cotton/disposable diaper or sanitary pad (to use under wraps as an emergency bandage)
• Chemical ice pack
• Liniment
• Sunscreen (for you and your horses)
• Bute and Banamine (if needed and your show association permits)
• Eye flush
• Pain reliever (for you)
• Human first-aid kit

Due Diligence
Always double-check your vet kit before every trip. This is one category you don’t want to neglect to restock and then need an item in an emergency.

Grooming Supplies

• Currycomb
• Brushes
• Towels
• Sponges
• Hoof pick
• Sweat scraper
• Bucket
• Shampoo/conditioner
• Spray-on coat conditioner
• Mane/tail detangler
• Fly spray/insect repellent
• Hose, if needed, plus nozzle
• Baby powder or corn starch (for brightening white markings)
• Baby oil or commercial highlighter (to dress eyes and muzzle)
• Hoof sealer or hoof black (if your association permits)
• Electric and/or battery-operated clippers
• Disposable razor (for last-minute whisker shaving)
• Mane/tail comb
• Hair brush
• Rubber bands for banding
• Yarn for braiding
• Scissors
• Tail wrap

Double Up
Buy two sets of grooming supplies; leave one set in the trailer and the other in your barn. Then your grooming checklist is fulfilled every time you drive away with the trailer.

Miscellaneous

• Emergency cash
• Jacks/spare tire/tools for vehicle and trailer
• Jumper cables/spare fuses
• Flashlight/batteries/emergency flares
• Camera and/or video recorder
• Folding chairs
• Plastic bags
• Extra clothes
• Extra paper towels
• Antibacterial wipes
• Umbrella/sun shade
• Trailer block
• Insect repellent for you
• Ice chest
• Cold drinks/bottled water
• Nutritious snacks: fruit, sandwiches, granola bars, energy bars, nuts
• Paper cups
• Reading material for downtime
• Box for putting awards in (to protect them)
• Cell phone

Pantry in a Box
Stock a bin with nonperishable foods and shelf-stable drinks, along with plates, napkins, and cups, and keep the bin in your trailer. Then you’ll always have snacks, even if you get out of the drive without your cooler.

Rider Attire/Personal Grooming

• Pants (jeans/show pants)
• Chaps
• Shirt (Western shirt/slinky)
• Neck scarf
• Tie, pin, or choker
• Coat or vest
• Boots (schooling and show)/socks
• Boot pulls
• Gloves
• Belt and buckle
• Sports bra
• Hat/helmet
• Baseball cap/sunglasses for sun protection
• Hair nets (bring several that match your hair color)
• Bobby pins
• Safety pins
• Grooming apron/coveralls
• Schooling clothes
• Hair comb/brush
• Hairspray/gel
• Mirror
• Appropriate jewelry
• Rain jacket
• Rubber rain boots
• Extra towels
• Boot polish and rags
• Hat brush
• Stain remover
• Sewing kit and scissors

Sample Sizes
When you buy makeup and skin products at the beauty counter, hold onto the samples and stow them in a cosmetics’ bag in your trailer. If they give away small bags, repurpose those, too.

In the July 2012 Health page, we shared with you how a full mane, forelock, and tail act as nature's fly-protection system. If your horse isn't so endowed, you may need to consider a fly mask. Learn more about how to properly use fly masks below.

Biting and blood-sucking insects around your horse’s face and head can be a real source of misery throughout the fly season. Modern fly masks are designed to protect your horse from these nasty pests—which can spread germs as well as cause discomfort.

We asked Barb Crabbe, DVM, H&R’s consulting veterinarian and author of The Comprehensive Guide to Equine Veterinary Medicine (Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.), to share key dos and don’ts for using fly masks safely and effectively.

Here’s what she told us.

Do choose a well-made mask constructed of a nonabrasive material with soft linings wherever the mask comes in contact with your horse’s face.

Do make sure the mask fits your horse’s head properly, so it can be adjusted to lie smoothly against his face. The mask’s lower edge should fall at least an inch below the bottom of your horse’s cheekbone; otherwise, a gap created by the cheekbone will allow easy entry to flies under your horse’s jaw. In general, the more of your horse’s face that’s covered by the mask, the greater the protection (although some horses take exception to full-face masks and are less likely to rub off a more standard-coverage model).

Do pay especially careful attention to how the mask fits over your horse’s eyes. This is an important safety consideration, as a corneal ulcer can result if there’s contact between any part of your horse’s eye (including his eyelash) and his fly mask. The mask should be designed with darts or rounded insets to enable the front part of the mask to be permanently raised for full clearance all around your horse’s eyes—check from every angle, with your horse’s head in various positions, raised and lowered.

Don't adjust the mask so that it’s snug against your horse’s face and jaw. You should be able to slip your finger easily between the mask and your horse’s face; otherwise, uncomfortable pressure points can create rubs and sores or cause your horse to work the mask off. (And, in any event, flies don’t try to muscle their way under the mask—they just crawl up onto it, where they don’t bother your horse.)

Don't forget your horse’s ears. If gnats or midges are a problem in your area, a mask with ear bonnets may be preferable. (Be aware, however, that some horses object to ear coverings and will try harder to get such a mask off. Experiment with different mask styles; your horse may prefer a soft-netting model that slips easily over the ears.)

Do check over the mask every day, looking for ripped or worn areas, stray fibers from the mesh, stickers, or anything else that could cause a problem. Replace a damaged mask if it can’t be safely repaired. Also, inspect your horse’s face and head daily, looking for rubs and sores.

Don't leave the mask on overnight. Your horse doesn’t need it at night, and he’s safer without it.

Do keep it clean. Dirt collected in the mesh can fall into your horse’s eyes, and an overall grimy mask can lead to skin infections. Having an extra mask for each horse makes washing them much easier.

Do consider applying fly repellent around the face under the mask during the worst of the fly season, for extra protection.

Some models of fly masks, like this one from Cashel, are meant to be worn by your horse while you ride him.

Photo courtesy of Cashel

Riding in Fly Season?
Riding-model fly masks are a wonderful innovation. They’re easier for your horse to see through than a standard mask, so don’t

compromise his vision during riding. They’re typically not as sturdy as a regular mask, however, so aren’t meant to be left on while your horse is turned out.

But for days when the flies are particularly bad or if your horse is especially sensitive to them, a riding fly mask can be an excellent investment.

In the summer, your horse is on the front lines of an ongoing war against flies. Fortunately, nature has equipped him for the fight. So, in addition to stocking up on repellents, fly masks and other insect control products this season, focus on maximizing your horse’s “built-in” protections.

Start with his mane and tail, which are designed to protect sensitive skin from insects. A long forelock, for example, whisks pests away from his eyes with a toss of the head. Let your horse’s “bangs” grow out this summer to make the most of this function. Likewise, a tangle-free tail will combat flies more efficiently than a braided one, so clean and comb this natural fly swatter regularly and minimize the use of tail bags and wraps that inhibit its movement. You’ll also want to set the clippers aside and let the protective hair on your horse’s fetlocks, muzzle, eyes and ears grow longer.

Keep in mind that a good covering of dust or mud is an effective barrier against insects. As much as it may hurt to see your grooming efforts erased, provide your horse with a safe and comfortable “dirty” area, where he can stop, drop and roll.

Horses will often buddy up to keep away flies in summer. Turn your horse out with a friendly companion—one he feels comfortable standing head-to-tail with—so they can swish flies from each other’s faces.

Of course, you’ll still need to help out with fly spray, fly masks, sheets and wraps—as well as good barn management to keep pests under control—but augmenting your horse’s natural pest control features will make your efforts that much more effective.

If you spend much time around horses, sooner or later you’ll encounter dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO). After all, this pungent, syrupy liquid is used to treat a variety of equine health problems ranging from orthopedic inflammation to neurological injury.

Yet DMSO’s route to acceptance in equine veterinary care has been far more circuitous than that of most therapeutic substances. For starters, it was developed not in a pharmaceutical laboratory but from the industrial wastes of paper manufacturing. Initially, it was considered a potential miracle drug: “My first experiences with DMSO were in the 1960s,” says Barney Fleming, DVM, of Custer, South Dakota. “At that time it was considered something magic and everyone wanted to stick their finger in it.” But within a few years, the use of DMSO ceased entirely, in the wake of safety concerns. In the decades since, especially after it was approved for use in horses in 1970, DMSO has gradually gained renewed acceptance.

“DMSO is not just another medicine; we’re looking at a whole new therapeutic principle,” says Stanley W. Jacob, MD, of the Oregon Health and Science University medical school, who was the first in the United States to investigate the medical potential of DMSO. “A medicine treats a particular disease. A therapeutic principle is a new method for treating diseases in general.”

In other words, DMSO doesn’t just have specific effects on the body; its actions can also help other treatments work better. “DMSO is an economical therapy, and many people who have used it over the years swear by it and feel that it is a great help for many medical conditions,” says Fleming.

However, DMSO is a powerful agent that must be used with care. “DMSO is a relatively safe product when properly applied, but it can be harmful if misused,” says David McCarroll, DVM, DACVIM, of Interstate Equine Services in Goldsby, Oklahoma. “The best thing to do is use it under the direction of your veterinarian.”

Solvent to solutions
DMSO’s remarkable versatility as a therapeutic agent comes from its molecular structure, which allows it to interact with water in unusual ways. “DMSO is literally water’s alter ego,” said Jacob in a lecture to the American College for Advancement in Medicine in 1980. Because DMSO and water molecules are similar in shape, size and polarity, they share three important properties:

• DMSO and water blend together extremely well, at all concentrations. “The DMSO-water bond is 1.3 times stronger than the water-water bond,” said Jacob, in his 1980 lecture.
• Water has two and DMSO has six hydrogen atoms that act like magnets to dissolve and “hold onto” large quantities of complex organic molecules without binding with them or changing their structures.
• In the body, DMSO can pass through cell membranes as readily as water does without damaging the tissues, and it can replace water molecules within many bodily fluids. And, because DMSO so readily dissolves other molecules, it can also carry them through the cell membranes with it. “DMSO alters cell membrane permeability,” says Jacob. “It moves through membranes and substitutes for water so that it pulls substances through cells that ordinarily would not move through them. This is its basic mechanism of action.”

An indication of this action lies in that distinct taste DMSO causes in your mouth after it touches your skin: “When applied topically or by IV, DMSO goes into the blood quickly and is excreted through the lungs, giving the breath a garlic or burnt-almond smell,” says McCarroll. “People need to be aware of this when they use it, so they won’t be surprised.”

These properties, along with a few others, account for the ways DMSO is currently used in veterinary medicine.

Anti-inflammatory action
In horses, DMSO is applied as a topical gel or administered in liquid form intravenously or through a nasogastric tube. It is classified as a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) because it has antioxidant properties that can interrupt the inflammatory process. DMSO binds readily with hydroxide (OH) and other “free radicals,” which are oxygen compounds that can damage or destroy healthy cells. Free radicals are often a byproduct of inflammation, and as they build up, they can stimulate more swelling and inflammation, which produces even more free radicals. Studies have shown that DMSO is a powerful free radical scavenger, and can slow or halt the destructive cascade of inflammatory damage to healthy tissue.

DMSO gel is sometimes applied topically to reduce swelling and inflammation associated with strained muscles and soft tissue injuries. Because the chemical is hygroscopic---meaning it attracts and binds to water molecules---it draws excess fluids out of tissues. “It makes a great sweat for swollen legs because it reduces edema,” says Fleming, who frequently uses DMSO in his work with endurance horses. Liquid DMSO injections may also be used to treat bowed tendons and other injuries of dense tissues that are difficult to reach with other drugs.

In addition, DMSO is also often administered orally or intravenously in the early stages of laminitis to arrest inflammation in the soft tissues of the hooves. “The toxic effects that are taking place in the feet of the horse can be relieved considerably by administering a 10 percent solution of DMSO, adding it to the IV fluids,” says Fleming. “It enhances the elimination of the toxins and reduces the damaging changes taking place in the foot.”

Finally, DMSO is sometimes prescribed to treat brain or spinal inflammation associated with trauma, oxygen deprivation or diseases such as West Nile encephalitis or equine protozoal myeloencephalitis (EPM). “DMSO does two things; it reduces inflammation, and since it is hydrophilic it also draws moisture from the tissues, reducing edema and swelling in the meninges or spinal cord, or any other tissues,” says Marlin C. Baker, DVM, of Alpha Equine Breeding Center in Granbury, Texas.

What more can DMSO do
DMSO also has wide-ranging applications that go beyond the control of inflammation:

Enhancement of drug action. When DMSO penetrates the skin and other membranes, it can readily carry many types of complex molecules with it---and that capability is often harnessed to help carry other drugs deeper into the targeted tissues. “For treating sore muscles, we just add DMSO to dexamethasone or prednisolone or any other drug we want to get inside the tissues as an anti-inflammatory,” says Fleming. “When you rub those drugs over the skin they only work topically, but if you add DMSO to them, they go into the tissues and work better.”

DMSO can also carry other drugs into tissues that are otherwise difficult to penetrate. For example, some skin infections, such as ringworm, rainrot or scratches can be hard to treat because the infective organisms can be deep under the skin or crusty scurf. DMSO can help other antifungal or antibacterial drugs reach their targets more effectively.

Not all drugs work well with DMSO, depending on their molecular weight, shape and electrochemistry. And DMSO will not carry bacteria or viruses across cell membranes because they are too large.

Pain relief. Research shows that DMSO slows or blocks conduction of impulses along nerve cells, which in effect reduces pain from musculoskeletal injuries, postoperative incisions and other sources. Relief is only temporary---lasting up to a few hours---because as the DMSO dissipates, normal function returns. However, DMSO is also often used in conjunction with other analgesic drugs to produce more long-lasting pain relief. “We also use it as an adjunctive therapy in intestinal surgeries and for analgesia postoperatively,” says McCarroll. “Many surgeons use DMSO in postoperative colic cases to improve microcirculation around the bowel. This promotes better healing and also gives some pain relief.”

Diuretic action. Because DMSO draws fluids from tissues, it may be administered intravenously in cases where it is necessary to increase the horse’s urinary elimination, such as to flush toxins from the system faster. “We use it for cantharidin poisoning [blister beetle toxicity],” says Baker. “In this situation it is given intravenously, to lessen the effect of that toxin on the kidneys and GI tract.”

Some veterinarians also routinely administer low levels of intravenous DMSO to horses who are tying up, experiencing massive cramping of the large muscles after exercise. “By giving it intravenously, with fluids, it also helps the horse urinate more,” Baker says, which in turn both helps the horse flush out and excrete the waste products from the breakdown of muscle cells and increases blood circulation into the area.

DMSO may be used to draw fluids out of the lungs in cases of acute pulmonary edema. “It is beneficial in respiratory disease because it reduces inflammation and draws some of the fluid/edema out of the lungs,” says Baker. “Along with DMSO, we use Banamine or some kind of corticosteroid (to also reduce swelling and inflammation) and sometimes it’s hard to tell which one is doing the most good, but they seem to work well together to gain a better response.”

Inhibition of microbial growth. DMSO is a bacteriostatic agent, which means it inhibits the reproduction of bacteria but doesn’t necessarily kill them outright. Some veterinarians add it in low concentrations to flushes used to rinse out draining abscesses or other infected wounds. Baker uses DMSO when he flushes out guttural pouches: “It’s not irritating when it’s diluted enough, and it does help liquefy a lot of the heavy, purulent material that is often found in the guttural pouch.”

Prudent precautions
Because DMSO carries molecules through the skin and into the body, it’s important to make sure the skin is clean and free of any other chemicals that could be inadvertently carried into the bloodstream. Fly sprays, for example, are safe when used as directed on the skin, but they contain chemicals that could become toxic if they are absorbed into the body.

“[DMSO] should not be used in conjunction with any organophosphate or cholinesterase-inhibitor insecticides,” says McCarroll. “If a person applies one of these types of fly repellents and uses DMSO, this can have an additive effect and cause toxicity. The insecticide or parasiticide would have been fine used alone, but when combined with DMSO it will potentiate or increase the effects of that drug and make it toxic to the animal.”

Many liniments also contain ingredients that are toxic if taken internally. “You don’t want to use [DMSO] with certain types of products, such as those that contain mercury salt,” says McCarroll. “This would take the mercury into the horse and can cause a fatal mercury toxicity. Iodine is not as toxic to the horse, but could also cause a problem. Certain other drugs like alcohol, insulin, corticosteroids and atropine may be made more powerful if used concurrently with DMSO.”

This ability of DMSO to ease absorption of other topical products is also an issue if a horse is to be drug-tested for competition. “There is a relatively new nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug called Surpass that is designed to be used topically,” says McCarroll. “When used according to directions it will not cause a positive drug test. But if you combine it with DMSO the drug level will be too high within the body and will cause a positive test.”

Because DMSO is a powerful diuretic as well as a vasodilator, it can be harmful when given to dehydrated horses and those in shock. “It can increase loss of fluid via the kidneys and further dehydrate the animal,” says McCarroll. “It also dilates the peripheral blood vessels and can thus lower the animal’s blood pressure. If the animal is in shock, this would make the condition worse.”Repeated or overzealous topical use of DMSO can dry out the skin, leading to scurf and scaling, redness or rash. DMSO produces heat when applied with other solutions, such as water or saline, alcohol or acetone, which can have therapeutic benefits---but too high a concentration can actually burn the skin. “In these instances it will produce a significant amount of heat and can actually cause thermal injury if a person is not careful with it,” says McCarroll.

Veterinarians often recommend mixing DMSO with Furacin ointment, which buffers it to reduce burning of the skin. Some horses may be more sensitive to this effect than others. “You also don’t want to use it on any individual that has had a bad reaction to DMSO in the past,” says McCarroll.

Intravenous administration of DMSO also carries the risk of side effects. If the concentration is too high or the solution is administered too quickly, muscle tremors, diarrhea, colic, seizures and/or other adverse reactions may occur. Large intravenous doses may also destroy red blood cells and inhibit clotting.

For the Trail:

Trail Saddle For those who’ve been extra good this year, the Flex Trail Pleasure 250 saddle was designed to provide maximum comfort for horse and rider. The handcrafted chestnut leather gives it a rich look, while the four-inch cantle helps keep the rider secure. Leg cutouts allow close contact. Cost: $1,500. Contact: Cactus Saddlery; www.cactussaddlery.com.

Oilskin Poncho Help your favorite horsepeople stay dry during the holiday: This gift guide recommends The waterproof Packable Poncho, made from heavy-duty, waterproof oilskin, is big enough to cover rider and saddle, yet rolls up for easy transport in a zippered ripstop bag with D-rings to attach to a saddle. The lockable hood fits over a riding helmet, while side snaps and a gusseted, zippered neck provide protection against the elements. Pockets hold bulky items. Available in black and bronze. One size fits most. Cost: $109.99. Contact: Outback Trading Company; www.outbacktrading.com.

Cozy Boots Give her toasty toes this holiday season. This gift guide recommends Mountain Horse’s Cozy Rider pull-on boots use soft, heat-insulating faux fur to keep feet comfy; leather is treated with a water-repellent leather protector to help keep out moisture. Elastic panels enhance fit, while dirt-resistant tread zones make for better stirrup contact. Waxed Nubuck leather upper. Available in black or brown in ladies’ sizes 5 through 11. Cost: $125. Contact: English Riding Supply; www.mountainhorseusa.com.

Western Helmet The Cheyenne Rowdy helmet, with its rugged, premium-grade leather exterior, will help keep your favorite horsepeople safe on the trails without sacrificing a Western look. The ASTM-approved helmet’s visor features a soft outer rim to protect the face. The moisture-wicking Dri-Lex lining and air channels provide extra cooling capability, while crown padding adds to comfort. Available in black or brown, in hat sizes 6 5/8 through 7 ¾. Cost: $169.95. Contact: Troxel LLC; www.troxelhelmets.com.

Fun T-Shirt Here’s one for your barn buddies with gaited horses: a T-shirt that proclaims, “I live, love & ride in my gaited community.” The 100 percent, preshrunk cotton shirt comes in chocolate brown, in women’s sizes S through XXL. Cost: $18.50. Contact: Lucky Bucky Clothing; http://luckybuckyclothing.com.

Your horse hesitates and steps awkwardly when he walks downhill. He’s dragging his toes, too, and a few times he has even stumbled while trotting in the ring. He doesn’t seem sore, and your trainer and farrier don’t see anything wrong with his feet—but you know he’s not right. Could he have one of several equine neurological disorders, like equine herpesvirus type 1 (EHV-1) equine protozoal myeloencephalitis (EPM) or West Nile virus?

Owners dread equine neurological disorders, such as equine herpesvirus type 1, equine protozoal myeloencephalitis or West Nile virus, and no wonder. Many of these problems are hard to diagnose and hard to treat, and they can damage a horse’s nervous system in ways that leave him unsafe to ride. But every neurologic case doesn’t end badly, and quick action—recognizing signs, getting a diagnosis and starting appropriate treatment—can give your horse the best chance.

If you think your horse might have a neurologic problem, it’s time to call your veterinarian. What exactly will your vet do, and what disorders might she find? In this article, we’ll walk you through a standard neurologic exam, tell you what else may be needed to make a definitive diagnosis and give you an overview of the most common problems.

Sorting Out the Signs
Signs of neurologic problems in horses run the gamut—seizures, abnormal behavior, abnormal gait, facial paralysis and more, says Debra Sellon, DVM, professor of equine medicine at the Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine. “The most common neurologic problem equine veterinarians see in the United States is an abnormal gait,” Dr. Sellon says. “Affected horses are usually ataxic and weak, meaning that they walk with a staggering or drunken type of gait. They may drag their toes, stumble frequently or sway back and forth when they walk.”

Disruptions in a horse’s command and control system create these problems. For normal movement, nerve signals must flow from his brain along his spinal cord to the nerves that govern his muscles—and nerves must signal back to his brain, reporting where his limbs are. If the signals don’t get through, your horse may become uncoordinated or develop abnormal gaits.

Many neurologic disorders can disrupt the signals. In most parts of North America, Dr. Sellon says, the most common are equine protozoal myeloencephalitis and cervical vertebral malformation (“wobbler syndrome”). But there are plenty of others, including injuries, several viral diseases and degenerative conditions, such as equine degenerative myeloencephalopathy, which has been linked to vitamin E deficiencies in young horses.

“Veterinarians use a fairly standard ­approach to determine a diagnosis for horses with neurologic disease,” Dr. Sellon says. The process begins with gathering information on your horse’s history. When did he begin to stumble or show other signs? Has he fallen? Information on your horse’s age, breed and use is important ­because some neurologic problems are more common in certain groups of horses.

Step two is a thorough physical ­examination. This exam may reveal soreness or other non-neurologic causes for your horse’s signs, or it may turn up signs of an injury or a disease that produces neurologic problems. As she examines your horse, your vet compares the right and left sides of your horse’s body, looking for asymmetry and loss of muscle mass (atrophy) that may develop when muscles go unused, as happens in some neurologic conditions. She may check the range of motion in his neck by encouraging him to bend to each side, using a carrot or another treat as a lure. Limited range of motion may mean an injury or even fractured vertebrae in his neck (the cervical spine).

Neurologic Exam
The third step is a detailed neurologic examination. “The goal is to determine, to the best extent possible, the site in the nervous system that is affected,” says Dr. Sellon. By finding out which functions are impaired, your veterinarian can figure out which nerves are involved. The process, called lesion localization, typically ­includes these steps:

General assessment: Your veterinarian observes your horse’s mental status and behavior. Is he alert or ­lethargic? Standing or down? Wandering aimlessly, circling or showing other odd behaviors or postures?

Basic reflexes: This part of the exam starts at the head with tests of the cranial nerves, which are involved in functions like hearing, vision, swallowing and facial sensation and muscle control. To test ­vision, for example, the vet quickly moves a hand toward your horse’s eye to trigger the menace reflex; your horse should blink and perhaps jerk away.

Along your horse’s neck and back on each side of his spine, your vet uses a ballpoint pen or similar object to touch your horse’s skin. A light but firm touch should trigger the panniculus reflex, the skin twitch you see when your horse is pestered by a fly. Lack of a reaction in any area suggests a problem with the nerves that supply that region. At the hind end, the vet checks muscle tone by lifting the tail; a limp tail may be a sign of a spinal cord problem. When his anus is gently stimulated, it should pucker and your horse should clamp his tail.

Maneuvers in hand: These tests show if your horse has control of his limbs and knows where his feet are. The vet watches as your horse is backed and turned in very tight circles in both directions to see how he places his feet. A normal horse keeps his rhythm and steps under his body, while a horse with a neurologic problem may interfere, take confused steps, swing a hind leg wide or pivot on one leg.

On a slope: Your vet may ask to see your horse led up and down a slope, to see if he stumbles, drags his toes or shows other gait abnormalities. Repeating this test with your horse’s head raised sometimes makes the signs more obvious.

Tail pull: This helps your vet assess your horse’s balance, strength and reaction time. As a handler leads your horse forward, your vet grasps his tail and pulls it firmly to the side. A normal horse will resist the pull; a horse with a neurologic problem may be tipped off balance. The test is repeated on the other side.

Foot placement: These tests help determine your horse’s awareness of his limb position. Your vet takes each foot in turn and places it over its opposite number—left front over right front, right front over left front, and the same behind. A normal horse will immediately put each foot back where it belongs; a horse with a neurologic problem may leave one or more feet out of place for a time.

By the end of the exam your veterinarian should know whether your horse’s problem is neurologic and, if so, what areas of his nervous system are ­involved. She may not have enough information for a clear diagnosis yet because many neurologic disorders have variable signs. “Horses with EPM can show a wide variety of signs, ranging from ataxia and weakness, to individual nerve paralysis, to seizures, to problems with urination or defecation,” Dr. Sellon says. “The vast majority of wobblers present for examination with ataxia and weakness of all four limbs. That means a horse with EPM often looks different from a wobbler but sometimes looks just the same.”

Still, your veterinarian will have enough information to make a list of the diseases or disorders that are most likely the cause and then choose the most appropriate diagnostic tests to confirm or rule out the items on that list. Here’s what you can expect for three common conditions.

Fly-Free Zone?
Everyone knows flies are a fact of life when you have horses. Is it really worth the effort it takes to combat them?

Yes, it is. Flies are not just a nuisance, though they are indeed your horses’ most annoying pest. Flies represent a health threat, too, as they’re highly effective at spreading diseases, including influenza, equine infectious anemia, pigeon fever (dryland distemper), salmonella, and vesicular stomatitis (a virus that causes painful mouth ulcers).

Then, too, your horses’ constant shoo-fly stamping can loosen shoes and aggravate impact-related injuries, such as arthritis and ringbone.

If fly infestations are severe enough, they can even cause horses to lose weight because of interrupted grazing time and lost sleep, or result in injuries as insect-crazed animals attempt to seek relief.

So—although you can’t completely eradicate these pests, it’s well worth the investment of time, effort, and resources to keep your horses’ environment as fly-free as possible.

Your First Line of Defense
...against flies is good stable management. There are several things you can do to discourage flies from setting up camp in your barn area in the first place, so grab your apple fork and read up on the basics.

• Remove that manure. Houseflies, your horses’ most common fly pest, are drawn to fresh droppings. This is where they prefer to mate and lay eggs; the resulting larvae feast on the feces. To keep that from happening, clean your horses’ stalls and pens daily, removing the manure to an off-site location once a week if possible, or covering the pile with a heavy tarp for later removal.
• Minimize moisture. Several fly species prefer wet areas for breeding as well as drinking. Keep stalls dry; eliminate standing puddles around your horses’ living areas; get rid of inadvertent water receptacles—old tires, no-longer-used buckets and feeders, etc.
• Cover consumables. Place all fly-attracting garbage in containers with bug-proof lids; keep grains, concentrates, and treats securely stored.
• Offer shade, air. A breezy, shaded area will help your pastured horses avoid flies; for stabled equines, barn fans are great fly-chasers.

For a Well-Rounded Attack...
...consider one or more of these additional fly-fighting products or services. Combine one or more of the methods described here with your good, basic stable management, and you’ll truly keep the bugs around your barn to a minimum.

Barn Spray System
The lowdown. These mechanized systems automatically mist a fast-acting natural insecticide (pyrethrum) throughout your barn several times a day, killing and/or repelling flies. The main unit and connected tubing and nozzles are installed by the barn-spray company. Things to think about. Once installed, spray systems are highly effective and hassle-free. Pyrethrum is environment-friendly, as it biodegrades within 30 minutes of spraying.

Cost. Varies by manufacturer and model, but spray systems do come with a relatively high initial price. The average monthly usage is quite reasonable; at about a gallon of insecticide per nozzle, it comes to about $5 per stall, per month.

Topicals
The lowdown. These products—which include sprays, roll-ons, wipe-ons, and “spot-ons” that you dab down the spine—provide a contact repellent or vapor barrier to make your horses less attractive to flies. Things to think about. Topicals are best regarded as “necessary but not sufficient”-—-they add greatly to your horses’ comfort but can’t keep fly populations down on their own. That means you’ll likely need another fly-fighting option (plus good stable management, of course) for adequate control. Some topicals are water-resistant and also repel ticks. Cost. Varies widely, but in general the lower the cost, the shorter the duration of protection.

Barriers
The lowdown. These items—masks, sheets, boots—provide a barrier be- tween flies and your horses’ bodies. Things to think about. Anti-flywear requires putting on and taking off every day. As a bonus, some masks and sheets may also offer sun protection—good for horses with exposed pink skin. Cost. Varies, but in general: masks, $10 to $30; sheets, $60 to $150; boots, $40 to $60 for a set of four.

Feed-Throughs
The lowdown. Mixed into your horses’ grain ration, these pellets pass through their systems into their manure, where the active ingredient prevents fly larvae from developing to maturity. Flies never leave the manure.

Things to think about. This method is easy and effective. You’ll need to feed multiple horses separately, to make sure they consume the correct dosage. Allow two to four weeks to see results, and for best effectiveness, feed from early spring to late fall.

Cost. About 30 to 50 cents per day, per horse.

Biological Control
The lowdown. With this ingenious, natural approach to fly control, tiny, low-flying wasps (fly parasites) use fly pupa (cocoons) as a host, thereby killing the flies before they hatch.

Things to think about. The method is completely environment-friendly and uses no chemicals. Fly parasites don’t bite people, horses, or pets. Allow 30 days for noticeable effect. Best if started in early spring, release new parasites every three to four weeks. If you opt for fly parasites, be careful how you use topical fly sprays to avoid killing the good bugs, too.

Cost. Under $20 per month for one to five horses; under $30 per month for six to 10 horses.

Traps
The lowdown. Bait or other attractants lure flies into traps or onto sticky surfaces, where they perish. Things to think about. You must know which type of flies you have and select traps accordingly.

Cost. Varies, but can range from 30 cents to $8 for sticky traps, and from $4 to $18 for enclosure traps.

Hurricane Katrina hit the Gulf Coast In August 2005 with winds exceeding 135 miles an hour, driving a huge storm surge that raised sea levels by as much as 29 feet. The monster storm vented the worst of its fury on Eastern Louisiana and Western Mississippi, where some coastal communities were completely destroyed. Among the victims were thousands of animals, including an unknown number of horses. Will future storms match this one in fury? No one is complacent. And there’s no reason to feel smug if you don’t live in hurricane country. Wildfire, flood, tornado, earthquake, chemical spill, terrorist attack—the stars have something in store wherever you are, it seems. You can’t prevent these events. And if past disasters have taught one lesson, it’s this: You can’t wait for officials to bail you out. You need to create a horse disaster plan.

“People need to prepare on their own,” says San Diego, California, veterinarian Terry Paik, who’s a member of the American Association of Equine Practitioners Equine Emergency Task Force and who’s helped rescue horses from several disasters, including Katrina. By creating a horse disaster plan, you increase the odds that you and your horses will come through safely. In this article you’ll find tips gathered from veterinarians and others who have helped horses through major disasters. Follow their advice to create your horse disaster plan, and you’ll be ready.

Wake-Up Call
For Ann Laux of Poway, California, the wake-up call came early one Sunday morning in October 2003, when a friend phoned to warn of a wildfire near the stable where her six horses were boarded. “I stepped outside and saw a third of the circumference of the horizon on fire,” she recalls. This was the Cedar Fire, the worst wildfire in California history. Fanned by hot Santa Ana winds and fueled by dense brush, it had raced overnight from the backcountry to the San Diego suburbs, burning 5,000 acres per hour.

Ann and her partner jumped into their tow vehicle and sped toward the stable, one of three facilities on a country road that together housed more than five hundred horses. Flames were leaping downhill toward the property and evacuation was under way when they arrived. Several of Ann’s horses had already been taken out—a good thing, as she had only a two-horse trailer for her six. “We would not have gotten all our horses out on our own,” she says. But, acting individually or responding to calls put out by the San Diego Humane Society, volunteers had come from as far as 40 miles away with trucks and trailers. “A racehorse trainer and some polo players turned up with big rigs. People just pulled in and took the first horses they could load. Incredibly, despite massive disorganization and confusion, all the horses survived.”

That wasn’t the case throughout the area. Farther into the backcountry, some horses were lost. One woman was killed while trying to haul her horses out on narrow mountain roads: Smoke made visibility poor, and she went off the road into a ditch.

As the fire continued to advance, Ann’s horses were moved repeatedly—first to a neighboring stable; then to showgrounds farther west, in Poway; and at the end of the day to Del Mar, where the racetrack and fairgrounds took in about a thousand equine refugees. Local businesses donated feed and equipment, and volunteers cared for the horses and helped reunite them with their owners. “People rose to the emergency and showed incredible guts,” Ann says.

Dr. Paik, who was involved in the Cedar Fire rescues, says San Diego was fortunate in having an active group of volunteers trained in animal rescue. “A lot of areas don’t have this,” he says.

To safeguard your horses …

You Need a Plan
Begin by assessing your risks. “Every region has unique challenges,” notes Dr. Paik. You can’t anticipate everything, but you can be ready for the events that are most likely in your area. Local emergency services and flood-control agencies can help you identify those dangers, and they may be able to help you figure out how to minimize risks particular to your property.

For example, in wildfire-prone areas, you’re wise to clear trees and brush in a 75-foot strip around your barn—fire can’t burn without fuel. In hurricane country, you might retrofit your barn with hurricane strapping, which consists of metal strips screwed into roof/wall junctions and other key points. Several resources listed in the box on page 96 offer detailed recommendations for reducing the impact of disasters on your property.

These steps won’t eliminate danger, though. You’ll need to decide ahead of time how you’ll respond when nature starts playing hardball. Then put your plan in writing, and give copies to neighbors, barn helpers, and family members. If you’re not home when a wildfire threatens or a tornado watch goes into effect, they’ll know what to do.

Your plan should cover two options: to evacuate or to ride out the disaster at home. Whether you stay or go depends on the nature of the threat, how much warning you have, and your individual situation, says Laura Bevan of HSUS. Some events don’t give you time to get out of the way; tornadoes strike randomly, and earthquakes are completely unpredictable. For other disasters, stay or go is a harder call. Hurricanes pose risks from wind as well as flooding. In coastal areas that could be flooded by storm surge, the safest place to be is clearly someplace else. But your horses may be able to weather the storm if there’s no flood risk.

In most cases it’s best to get horses out of the path of a wildfire. They may be able to survive a fast-moving grass fire if they are turned out in a large open area—a plowed field or a large fenced arena, for example—because the fire will skip that area as it moves through. Their chances aren’t so good in areas surrounded by thick woods and brush, though, because the fire will find plenty of fuel and generate intense heat.

Plan A: Stay Put
Roads may be blocked and power out, but your horses can ride out a storm or the aftermath of an earthquake if you’re prepared. Here’s a basic checklist.

Water: Dehydration is a major cause of death for horses in disasters of all kinds. Storm runoff may contaminate natural water supplies; power failures may knock out your well pump, and even municipal water supplies may be interrupted.

• Figure on 12 to 20 gallons per horse per day, and have at least a three-day supply (seven is better) on hand.
• Store water in clean 55-gallon drums, and fill all troughs and other containers on the property. Line garbage cans with plastic trash bags and fill them, too.
• Have chlorine bleach on hand to purify water if necessary. Add two drops of bleach per quart of water and let stand for 30 minutes.

Feed: Deliveries may be interrupted. Have enough feed and hay on hand for at least three to seven days, stored in a dry, secure area. Put feed and hay on pallets and cover with water-repellent tarps to reduce the chance of water damage.

Power: Have a gasoline-powered generator on hand so that you can power critical equipment (such as your well pump).

Disaster kit: Keep these supplies within easy reach.

• Flashlight and batteries
• Battery-operated radio
• First-aid supplies for both horses and humans
• Extra halters (leather or breakaway) and lead ropes (with stud chains for extra control)
• Clean towels
• Emergency tools—chain saw, hammer and nails, wire cutters, pry bar—and, of course, duct tape
• Materials for quick temporary fence repairs
• Fire extinguisher
• List of emergency contacts, including your veterinarian and state and county animal-welfare and emergency-response teams.

Horses in or out? In many cases, your horses will be safer in a pasture than in a barn that could collapse, flood, or burn. Building collapse was a major cause of horse deaths in Hurricane Andrew, which pummeled Florida in 1992. Outside, horses turned their butts to the wind. Many were wounded by flying debris, says Laura Bevan, but they survived. However, she adds, if you don’t have suitable turnout and your barn is built to code and well maintained, horses may be safer from wind indoors.

• Be sure that the pasture is free of debris and far from power lines, and that fences and gates are secure. (Do not rely on electric fencing, which could easily be knocked out.)
• If there is a danger of flooding in your area, be sure to choose a pasture with high ground.
• If you’ll be leaving the property for your own safety, make sure the horses have access to clean water and forage. It may be days before you can get back to them.

Halters on or off? You’ll hear different views, but most people interviewed for this article favor keeping halters on so that horses will be easy to catch if they escape during a storm or other event.

• Use leather or breakaway styles, as all-nylon halters could snag on debris and trap the horses.
• Be sure each horse has some form of ID (see “Whose Horse Is This?” on the next page).

Close up: Shut barn doors, secure pasture gates, turn off power, and get to safety before your own life is in danger.