The author of Zen Mind, Zen Horse says that your own mental state has a great deal to do with your horse’s response.

Have you ever wondered how your horse sometimes seems to know what you’re feeling?

Dr. Allan Hamilton, a Harvard-trained neurosurgeon and a horse trainer, has written a book that connects the science and spirituality of horses like two halves of a whole as he explains how horsemen have much to learn in the presence of horses.

Hamilton works in two worlds: One world is the clinical, scientific world of medicine; the other is the intuitive, sensing world of horses. His book, Zen Mind, Zen Horse, bridges both worlds and explains how horses, as prey animals, evolved in a way that made them consummate, non-verbal readers of humans. That uncanny ability for horses to perceive human emotion is a hefty strand in the horse/human bond.

With glimpses at Hamilton’s book and suggestions he offers, we’ll take a look at what we can learn from horses, why they’re able to read even our imperceptible cues, and what we can do to understand and bond with our horses in meaningful ways.

Serendipity
It started with an injury. Hamilton, who served as a surgeon during Desert Storm in 1990, returned home with a back injury that forced him to give up riding for a full year. A lifelong horseman, he wasn’t happy to comply with that directive. In frustration, he turned to groundwork with his horses, and that perspective opened up a whole new world of understanding. He began to communicate with his horses—and to see how they perceived him—in new ways.

“I began to see that what was happening with horses was sort of a metaphor for other things. You can see all of life through horsemanship,” Hamilton says. And groundwork, he adds, is “one of the best ways for humans to enhance their awareness of non-verbal communication.” Not just communication with horses, but communication in all aspects of life. He contends that you can improve your communication and interpersonal skills by interacting with horses.

“Some days they match your mood, and there are other times where they mirror you, and say ‘this is what you look like.’ It’s one of their gifts—they read your body energy and give you a chance to see what you’re putting out. It’s another level of awareness that they bring,” he says.

Carefully considering non-verbal communication, Hamilton developed a new philosophy with his horses, one that was grounded in science and practiced with spirituality. And he found ways to combine his work as a healer with his deeper understanding of horses. Hamilton offers seminars that range from teaching executives how to negotiate (which, he says, is what working with horses is all about) to helping doctors develop sensitive bedside manners. He offers seminars for veterans, cancer patients, women who’ve left abusive relationships, kids in the juvenile justice system, and people dealing with substance abuse. All of them, he says, benefit from the lessons horses teach.

For example, his retreat for doctors learning about bedside manners came about when he was at a hospital, doing rounds with a group of young doctors. “We’d blow into a patient’s room, and he or she would look startled.” It was, he realized, something he’d never have done when walking into a horse’s stall. Learning to approach people with calm, respectful body language is a lesson horses teach.

“Horses,” he says, “are quiet, loving, peaceful sages that are always offering up one more lesson about your self.”

A Matter of Chi
The lessons horses teach us have their basis in science, Hamilton says. Horses are able to pick up on a person’s emotions, mood, and energy because they’re prey animals that have evolved to read even the subtlest body language.

Yet, behind that science of self-preservation is spirituality. Hamilton looks at the spiritual beliefs of many cultures, and describes using the Asian concept of Chi.

“Chi conveys a notion of flow...it relates to the vitality of breathing and implies a concept of fundamental vigor,” he says. “At the same time, it carries undertones of personal willpower and determination.”

He describes Chi at work with horses as their “primary language,” and explains that over millions of years, equids fine-tuned and developed their non-verbal vocabulary. Their survival as prey animals depended upon it.

So what does that mean for your relationship with your horse? It’s a basis for understanding. When you approach your horse from the ground, you’re transmitting information to your horse, even if you aren’t aware of doing so.

In a herd of horses, one horse’s movement—the twitch of an ear or the slightest shift of hips—is “enough to send ripples of energy through all members of the herd,” he says. That Chi helps keep a herd safe and aware, sometimes over great distances.

“Your horse can feel your energy. Just thinking about one thing or another changes the energy you’re putting out,” he explains.

Hamilton uses round-pen work as a case in point.

“If I direct my vision to the area slightly behind where the girth would be, the horse drives forward. All I’m doing is making my eyes move, but the horse senses that.” And, he says, if your attention drifts away from the horse, he perceives that change and responds accordingly.

“Horses,” he says, “are virtuosos at reading the energy given off by another horse—or a person. Horsemanship is based on the energetic interaction between horse and trainer. So to become adept with horses we must change our sensitivity to Chi.”

ROBarrelHorse: I have an 18 year old broodmare that just recently foaled. She gets free choice grass hay, all she can eat, and 2 pounds of beet pulp, 2 pounds of alfalfa pellets, 1 pound of oats twice a day along with 1 cup of omega horseshine. I believe she is in good body condition. She's not too fat nor thin. Do I need to supplement anything else?

Dr. Katie Young: I would suggest at least adding some Enrich 32 to provide the essential nutrients that are typically lacking and/or imbalanced in forages and straight grains.  Depending on your horse’s body weight, feeding rate would be 1-2 lbs/day.

However, since your mare just foaled and is in early lactation (therefore her nutrient requirements are greatly increased over gestation), you may want to consider switching to one of the feeds designed to support milk production as well as growth and development of the foal.  Although your current ration may have supported your mare’s calorie needs through gestation, she may lose condition quickly due to the demands of producing milk for her foal.  Strategy GX, Omolene #300 or Ultium Growth will support your mare through lactation and are also suitable for the foal to eat along with its mom to help meet its own nutrient needs.  Also, it is important during this period to ensure that your mare is maintaining appropriate body weight and condition. We recommend maintaining a broodmare at body condition score 5-7, and not allowing the mare to fall below a score of 5 for best reproductive efficiency.  If you are not familiar with the Body Condition Scoring system, please visit our website www.horse.purinamills.com, and use the Body Condition Score Chart to determine your mare’s body condition score.

Susan Lang: I have a 35 year old American Saddlebred mare with PPID, fractured pelvis from osteoporosis due to PPID, had an eye problem, now resolved, and now skin crud. Add osteoarthritis in her Kees and all 4 fetlocks. I figure if I hurt, she gets the Previcox. I had 5 wonderful years on her once we taught her to be a horse and then a trail horse. My question has to do with her constantly changing her preferences for food. Yes, sloppy beet pulp and senior, then no beet pulp, just groats and Senior, then not much at all (peppermint extract in the food helps). Any other ideas on keeping her appetite up? She really decreases as the South Florida heat climbs. I feed her small amounts 3x a day.

Dr. Young: We do sometimes see older horses that become more finicky in their feed preferences.  Sometimes adding a small amount of Omolene #400 to the Equine Senior can be helpful.  I’d also suggest checking in with your veterinarian to determine whether the change in appetite may be related to pain issues.  If so, addressing that may level out her appetite preferences.

Horsegirl91: I have a 28 year old mare but she dose not act old. On cold days she is really stiff in the front what can I do? She dose not always come out of it.

Dr. Young: Your mare may have developed osteoarthritis.  I’d suggest checking with your veterinarian to help determine if that is the case.  If your vet feels that a joint supplement may be of benefit, our new FreedomFlex Joint Supplement has had great results in clinical trials.

MkC: Hi - I have a 30 yr old Arab mare who is eating about 3 pounds of Safe choice and mixed hay/day. She seems to be doing just fine on this, but I'm starting to wonder if she's on the best feed for her age. What are your thoughts? Thanks for your help!

Dr. Young: At 30 years, your mare may have some decrease in digestive capabilities, resulting in higher requirements of some nutrients.  Equine Senior Active Healthy Edge was designed specifically for horses such as yours – to meet the nutrient requirements of aging horses that are still well able to chew hay and maintain appropriate body weight and condition.

Dale berger: I have a 35 year old standerd bred mare. She gets senior feed and hay but has poor pasture. She needs more weight and muscle mass is poor. What else can I do for her? She will only eat so much senior feed and walks away. She is turned out on 5 acres 24/7. That is how she likes it. I don't live at the farm where she is turned out. I go there 2x a day most of the time so feeding is a little bit of a problem. She is turned out with her 21 year old son, so I can't just leave the feed out. She does have some teeth problems as well.

Dr. Young: Dale, you may want to try mixing a bit of Omolene #400 in with the Equine Senior to help tempt your mare to eat a bit more.  Ideally, she would be fed more meals during the day, but I understand that sometimes that is not feasible.  With the dental problems, she may very well not be receiving adequate nutrition from the hay/pasture, and the Equine Senior is the only part of the ration that is providing nutrients.  If that is the case, increasing the Sr may be your best option.  Again, if she will not eat the amount that she needs, mixing in Omolene #400 may be enough to persuade her to eat an appropriate amount of Sr.

Lauren D.: Hi! I have a 20 year old thoroughbred/welsh pony. He is a great jumper, and had some issues with his hooves about a year ago. Everything is back on track, and we are now feeding him the Purina Senior Feed. He really likes his feed, and has been acting a little spunky. I was wondering if this had anything to do with him getting a lot more protein and energy from the feed, or if it was the weather change (it was a warm, humid, rain). Thanks!

Dr. Young: Lauren, Equine Senior is fairly low in sugar/starch, and high in fiber, so is not usually a feed that results in horses exhibiting an increase in energy/activity (unless they were not being fed to meet nutrient requirements prior to the Equine Senior, and now are feeling better and acting the way that they do in good health).  Without knowing more about your pony and the total diet (body weight and body condition score, lbs of Equine Senior per day, pounds of hay/day, pasture, etc.), I can’t determine where you are on meeting nutrient requirements, or if another feed would be more appropriate for your pony (Strategy Healthy Edge, Equine Senior Active, possibly Enrich 32).  If you would like to contact our Customer Service Department, we’d be happy to go through your current feeding program and help determine the best feeding recommendation for you and your pony.

Natasha: I have a 26 yr old, 15 hh, TB gelding. He is a hard keeper and is semi-retired. He gets 5 quarts of Ultium Performance twice a day to help maintain his weight. Is there another feeding regimen that might perform better for him?

Dr. Young: Natasha, if your horse is doing well on Ultium and maintaining appropriate body weight and condition, I’d keep doing what you’re doing.  As long as his teeth are in good enough condition to allow him to eat hay/pasture, Ultium is an appropriate feed for older horses.  However, if he gets to the point that he can’t do well on long stemmed forage, then you’d need to look at Equine Senior as a complete feed to replace most or all of the forage in his diet.  Your veterinarian can help you determine if/when his dental condition warrants switching to Equine Senior.

Bellllla.: Hi! I own a 22 year old quarter horse mare. We currently ride at least 4 days a week and show often. We ride Western, do reining, and do a lot of trail rides. I have noticed that she has A TON of energy. We dont do timed events. She will NOT walk, more of a "jig." I know some of this is in the training, but I was reccomended to change her feed. We currently feed Purina Senior. Is there anything I could change it to to make her have less sugar, but enough other stuff to keep her fat? Shes not underweight, but could definately use a bit more fat. She also eats just fine. Any help? Please I beg you!!!

Dr. Young: Without knowing more about your horse and the total ration (how much Equine Senior and hay/pasture you are feeding daily, your horse’s body weight and condition), I can’t really make a specific feeding recommendation.  Equine Senior is fairly low in starch/sugar and high in fiber, but Strategy Healthy Edge or Ultium may be good options that are low in starch/sugar, high fiber, but also higher in fat and calories than Equine Senior.  If you would like to contact our Customer Service Department, we would be happy to help you determine the best feeding options for your mare.

Judy Hudson: My horse is 27. How much endurance is expected at that age. He is in good health

Dr. Young: Judy, the amount of endurance that your 27-year old would be expected to exhibit is highly variable – dependent on genetics,  conditioning/fitness, management, nutritional status, etc.  I’d suggest that if you are concerned about your horse’s endurance, you may want to check with your veterinarian to determine what you can expect from your horse and if there is anything that may need to be addressed.

Laura Tifft: Hi Katie, I have a33 year old QH mare that I have owned since she was a 4 year old. She is a wonderful horse and has given me some great memories. She can't chew hay anymore, she quids it so I try everything I can to keep her going. (She is able to eat the chaf from alfalfa hay so that helps). She is holding her weight well, but she is so picky about her senior feed, I am getting very frustrated. I have tried just about every brand of senior feed there is. She will like a particular brand for a few feedings, then she won't eat it. Same with every feed I try with her. She does love her sweet feed so I have even tried to mix senior with the sweet feed, but then she won't eat even the mixed feed. So I have supplemented her through this last winter with hay cubes, sweet feed, (senior when I can get her to eat it), and a special mix from a recipe my friend who is majoring in animal nutrition came up for me. I also supplement her feed with Vita-Plus every day. Now that spring is here, she is able to graze. Any suggestions for this old lady? Thanks.

Dr. Young: Judy, Omolene #400 may be a good option for you.  While it is not specifically designed for senior horses, we have used it with great success for older horses.  It is a complete sweet feed, designed to replace most or all of the forage in the diet (as is Equine Senior).  I often recommend adding a bit of Omolene #400 to Equine Senior when older horses are picky about eating, but in your situation, using Omolene #400 alone may be the best option.

Captdave: Boomer is a 19 year old Qtr Gelding. When I enter his corral he sometimes semi pins his ears back. Once out he is the normal very friendly Boomner. What's up?

Dr. Young: I’d suggest checking with your veterinarian to see if there is any type of medical condition that is affecting Boomer’s attitude.  If not, possibly a local trainer could help you out.  This is not an unusual behavior in a horse during feeding time, but it is always a concern if the horse acts on any aggression by biting or kicking.  As a nutritionist, I could help you determine if your feeding program is meeting Boomer’s nutrient requirements, but it sounds like this is not a feeding/nutritional issue.

Q: If a mare with neurological problems gives birth, will the foal mimic her odd behavior? This is an ongoing debate at our barn. Some people are theorizing that as mom walks, baby walks, and as mom eats, baby eats. I understand that some foals, however, can be born with neurological diseases. Can you help us settle this?

A: Although it is true that foals sometimes mimic the behavioral patterns of their mothers, those born to mares with neurological issues generally do not imitate those deficits. At our neonatal intensive care unit, we have delivered many foals from mares who were afflicted with equine0 protozoal myeloencephalitis (EPM), one of the more common infectious neurological diseases seen in horses. These foals do not display any of the neurological signs their mothers do.

However, foals can be born infected with organisms that cause neurological disease that are passed down from the mother. For example, studies show that one of the organisms that can cause EPM, Neospora hughesi, can be transmitted via the placenta to the fetus carried by some naturally infected mares; however, the foals who were found to be infected with the protozoa did not necessarily demonstrate neurological signs for up to three months after birth. Likewise, transmission of the highly contagious equine herpesvirus type-1 (EHV-1) can also occur from the dam to the fetus via the placenta, but while these foals are born with EHV-1 in their bloodstream and various organs (lungs, liver, thymus), the majority of them do not show any neurological signs.

The most common cause of neurological disease seen in the newborn foal is neonatal encephalopathy. This can occur when the fetus is deprived of oxygen in the womb because the placenta is not functioning properly, usually because of a bacterial infection (placentitis). In cases like these, the foals are born with neurological abnormalities, such as incoordination and lack of the suckle reflex. Neonatal encephalopathy may also develop in foals who are deprived of oxygen for too long during the birthing process, as we often see with difficult deliveries (dystocias); these foals generally do not develop neurological signs for up to 18 to 24 hours. In both scenarios, the lack of oxygen leads to fluid accumulation in the brain tissue (cerebral edema), and damage may also occur to other organ systems, such as the kidneys and gastrointestinal tract. The prognosis for these foals is generally very good if they are treated early and appropriately.

Rodney L. Belgrave, DVM, DACVIM
Director of Internal Medicine
Mid-Atlantic Equine Medical Center
Ringoes, New Jersey

Any horse might kick under the right circumstances, and the possibility of becoming the target of a well-aimed hoof is always with us. Most of us learn commonsense guidelines of defensive horsemanship early on, but it’s easy to get complacent among trusted horses. To stay safe, it’s wise to always keep these rules in mind:

• Stay alert. Focus your attention on the horse you’re working with as well as any who are close by. Pay attention to a swishing tail, pinned ears, flared nostrils and other signs that a horse is getting annoyed, and take steps to diffuse the situation before he “blows up.”

• Watch herd interactions. Steer clear of any who seem alarmed or threatened by your presence. Also sidestep any developing skirmishes.

• Avoid carrying feed or treats through a herd. Horses can become competitive and/or aggressive to get to the food, and you could inadvertently be on the receiving end of their blows.

• Don’t ride among loose horses. A horse at liberty may send yours a “don’t come closer” message that puts your leg in the line of fire.

• Tie horses far enough apart so that they can’t kick each other. You’ll also need a safe buffer zone so you can remain out of reach while walking between them.

• Stay close to a horse’s body when working around him on the ground. The most damaging kicks happen when a horse has enough room to fully extend his leg. Kicks at close range hurt but are less likely to cause serious injury.

• Put away your cell phone. Whether you’re on foot or in the saddle, stop talking, texting and indulging in other smartphone activities. Safety around horses requires your full attention.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

Recently, a friend told me she was having trouble finding a trainer to start her 9-year-old horse under saddle. One refused to take on the horse without giving any reason, then another told her that horses were no longer trainable after they turned 9. This surprised us both: Neither of us considers a 9-year-old horse to be “old.”

I am well aware of the prejudice against training older horses who’ve never been ridden or those still considered “green.” However, as founder and president of Bluebonnet Equine Humane Society in Waco, Texas, I have had the opportunity to work with such horses, and I can assure you that there’s no particular age at which it’s too late to start a horse. They’re all individuals---some young horses can be quite a handful, while some older ones settle right into their new jobs.

In fact, I’ve found that most older horses are more than capable of learning new skills or unlearning bad habits. Plus, they offer some important advantages that younger horses do not:

• Unless they were abused or totally neglected, older horses---even the untrained ones---often have a “been there, done that” attitude that enables them to stay calm in new situations. They’ve seen more of the world than younger horses have, and this, in many cases, allows your training to progress much more quickly.

• The personality of an older horse is already defined, so you know what you have to work with. However, this does mean that you need to carefully evaluate the personality of an older horse before committing to him, because he’s not likely to change. For
instance, work and experience may help eliminate spookiness, but an older horse who is more reactive and hotter than others will probably stay that way.

• Older horses have reached their full height, and any conformation problems will have shown up already. You won’t be left guessing what they’ll look like when they’re done maturing.

• The mental maturity of an older horse gives him a longer attention span. He’ll retain more from longer, more in-depth training sessions than a younger horse would.

• In most parts of the country you can probably acquire an untrained older horse for free or nearly nothing. Once you’ve invested your time in training, you may end up with a much nicer horse than you could normally afford.

Also remember that, thanks to improved nutrition and veterinary care, a horse in his late teens or 20s these days can still be in great physical shape. Riders who don’t mind putting in a little effort can often get a nice horse that they can enjoy for many years, for very little money.

Considering all of this, I would encourage anyone with time and training experience to take a chance on a slightly older horse, even if that horse has no or very limited experience under saddle. There are, however, a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure that your horse will be physically capable of participating in your chosen discipline (see “Health Check,” page 64). Then, consider whether you have the time, patience and experience you’ll need for the type of older horse you’re considering: There’s a huge difference between an older horse who has never been handled, one who has been handled badly, and one who has been handled well. Although I believe that any horse can be trained, some will take longer than others.

To help illustrate the challenges and rewards of working with older green horses, here are a few examples of some I’ve met who have gotten fresh starts later in life.

Jericho: Overcoming poor handling
Jericho was about 15 and still a stallion when he was discovered wandering back county roads. We can’t say for sure that he was abused, but it was clear that whatever handling he’d had wasn’t consistent. He had learned to get his way by pinning his ears and snapping. After he was gelded, his foster caretakers had to act as if he’d never been trained at all to relay a foundation of respect, working hard to establish good manners on the ground and to teach him that biting isn’t acceptable. Because he was so set in his ways, it took many, often trying, weeks to work through his bad habits. But once he was behaving better in hand,a trainer was able to begin preparing him for work under saddle. Jericho is ridable, and because of that it will be easier to find him a stable home, but he’s probably always going to be a handful, so he’ll need to be placed with experienced handlers.

The difficulty you’ll have training an older horse depends in large part on the handling he has previously received. Three types of handling in particular may increase the training challenge.

• Harsh discipline--immediate, forceful punishment for any misbehavior---may not necessarily be abusive, but it can produce a timid horse who is scared of making mistakes. He may be constantly waiting for you to come down hard on him, and it can take months of consistent, kind handling before he begins to trust you. This type of horse often benefits from a lot of handling on the ground before he’s started under saddle. You still need to discipline misbehavior, but you also need to give the horse a chance to do well and reward him promptly when he does the right thing.

• Inconsistent handling often results in a spoiled horse who doesn’t know how to behave. Although these horses were sometimes disciplined for poor behavior, at other times they were allowed to have their own way without consequences. These horses will try your patience with repeated attempts to test their limits. They benefit from consistent handling during groundwork to teach them that misbehavior is always disciplined but that good behavior is also rewarded.

• Abused horses are the hardest to train. Fortunately, outright abuse, where the horse has been repeatedly beaten or even tortured, is very rare. Some horses fight to save themselves in the face of abuse, and it can be hard to stop fighting. They’re the ones who become dangerous to handle: Their immediate first reaction to anything they don’t like is to kick, strike or bite. If you find yourself with a horse like this on your hands, seek professional help. It takes a lot of consistent and careful handling to help these horses overcome their past, and they can be dangerous until they learn to trust humans again. Occasionally, a horse like this has been so traumatized that he can never recover.

Other horses react to abuse by shutting down emotionally and not responding to anything. They simply stand and take whatever their abuser dishes out. One effective approach is to simply spend time near these horses without handling them, and then to work with them consistently on the ground. The length and degree of the abuse these horses endured will affect how long it takes them to begin trusting you.

Windy: An adorable blank slate
Windy, a pinto pony---probably about 10 years old---was halter broke when she arrived at our rescue, but it was clear that that was about the extent of her training. She was spoiled and pushy, and she had most likely always gotten away with her bad behavior because she was so cute and little.

Our trainer spent several sessions just teaching her ground manners, but once Windy got those down, her training went quickly. Because she had seen more of the world, she was quieter and more settled than a younger horse would have been, and she adapted quickly to work under saddle. It didn’t take many months before Windy was ready to be placed with a family, and today she’s being ridden, doted upon and loved by small children.

Mature horses with little or no prior handling can be a challenge and take quite a while to train. The tougher cases are the mustangs or other feral horses who have never seen people before. They need to be accustomed to human handling before you can begin any real training, and the longer a horse has lived on his own, the harder it will be to gentle him. His sense of self-preservation grows each year, and he is going to be likely to flee anything he deems scary.

That said, feral horses can be gentled at an older age, but I find that they often remain highly reactive for the rest of their lives, even if they’re successfully trained to ride. In the beginning, these horses are more likely to try to jump or run through a fence to get away from you. You need to keep them in an enclosure with a stout fence that’s at least six feet high and made of horse-safe panels attached to wooden posts, woven wire hung on posts, or strong boards.

Horses who have been kept around people, just never handled, can still be a challenge, but they’re far easier to train than truly feral ones. You don’t have to worry about introducing them to the sight of people before you can start working with them. However, it’s still a good idea to keep them confined to a smaller pen with six-foot fencing because they can be prone to trying to flee when you begin to put pressure on them.

Halter breaking is the first step with a horse like this before you proceed to other groundwork, and this can take much longer than it does with a younger horse. But once they’ve accepted a halter, their under-saddle training tends to advance pretty quickly.

One advantage of working with an older green horse is that you don’t have to worry about overcoming someone else’s training mistakes. He’s a blank slate, as it were, for you to make your mark on.

Hermes: Building on a solid foundation
Hermes was a neglect case. When we picked him up, the 13- to 15-year-old stallion was emaciated and needed time to recover his health, but it was obvious he had been well handled at one point in his life. He led, stood tied and knew how to longe. He behaved himself around other horses and respected his handler’s personal space. Once Hermes gained weight and was gelded, I started working with him. Because he had such a good foundation, his retraining went quickly. I taught him to carry a saddle and bridle in no time. He went to a trainer for a few weeks, and everyone who met him was amazed at his progress. But the training he had years before was so good, it only needed to be uncovered for him to excel. Hermes was quickly adopted by a family as a show horse for their daughters.

Older horses who have had positive prior experiences are the easiest ones to train, even if they haven’t been ridden or worked with in years. Since they haven’t been mishandled, there are no bad habits or associations to overcome. They’re used to people and know what to expect from them and are generally trusting. Chances are, they’re already used to the routines of domestic life: farrier visits, veterinary exams, being caught and haltered, etc.

As long as this type of horse is physically capable, you can begin working with them right away. These horses often progress quickly through the groundwork stages: learning (or relearning) to longe, carry a saddle and carry a bridle fairly quickly.
Many older horses who were handled well previously also take to a rider without much fuss. They are a delight to work with.

There is a potential pitfall to these easygoing older guys, however. They can lull you into a sense of complacency. You’ll never want to forget that this is still a green and inexperienced horse. He may still become frightened, confused or spook. It’s only fair to give him the same level of understanding when he makes a mistake that you’d give a 4-year-old. Similarly, it can be easy to push these horses too fast. Remember that’s he’s still learning skills, even if he seems to be picking them up very fast. Don’t cut corners or skip steps in his training or you may end up with a resistant, cranky horse despite his great foundation.

Ask your friends if they’d be interested in a 10-year-old green-broke horse and you’re likely to be met with a few suspiciously raised eyebrows. It’s a natural reaction to assume something must be very wrong with a horse who makes it so far in life without more than just basic training. But the harsh reality is many older horses weren’t lucky enough to have a complete or quality education in their younger years.

This doesn’t mean they can never be useful mounts. In fact, many turn out to be terrific. If you think you have the resources and patience to take on an older green horse, I’d encourage you to, creating your own success story to share.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

I would ask my horse, Sterling, “What brings you joy?” Joy is a special word. It connotes a state of mind and feeling that most humans don’t experience too often. We use many words to express positive feelings, but you rarely hear people describe something in their lives as bringing them joy.

Sterling has a retired life with me as his novice rider. In our 4 years together he has proven to be “A Horse of a Lifetime” and has taught me to ride, and trust, and truly find joy in sharing time with him in the saddle and on the ground. I would love to hear from him what I could do to bring him the same joy he brings me each day.

The simple and loving greeting when I enter the barn, the “discussions” we have about life and our overall trust in each other has proven to bring me joy every day of the week. I would love to hear from him what brings him joy...in what I know would be his calm and loving voice.
Debra Ladley, Pennsylvania

My family doesn’t live in a good place to have a horse, so of course I don’t have one. If I did, though, I’d ask him if I was treating him well, if he was OK with it, and how I could do better. I live near a horse farm and so I watch how the owners treat the horses and work with them, so when I get a horse hopefully he’ll have some good things to say.
Ashlyn Bair, Colorado

There is really only one question that actually matters and it’s a quote from Pat Parelli: “Was it as good for you as it was for me?” The relationship with our horses must come first. Since horses can’t speak we can read the answer to this question in the same way horses communicate with each other, in their body language.
Robin Dym, New Jersey

I would first ask if he hurts anywhere. Second, I’d ask what his favorite thing is that we do together and lastly, what is his least favorite thing we do together.
Amanda Wood, California

Our family had a horse from the time I was a preschooler until I attended graduate school. She was more of a pet than a horse—treated just like the dogs and cats in the yard. I would have asked her if we were doing everything we could to make her happy and keep her healthy. I would want to know if there was anything else she wanted from us. There were times when part of the fence would be down, but she didn’t stray, so I would like to think she was happy with us.
Joan Weston Bellinger, Columbia

I would say...How are you doing Truman? Is there anything I can do for you to make your life better? How does the saddle feel, is it still fitting you ok even though you are older & changing shape? Speaking of shape, I am sorry that I have gained a few pounds. I want you to know that I think you are the finest, most honest horse I have ever met, you are a real trooper and I really love you.
Dee Whitt, Arizona

My horse speaks to me all the time; a soft whickering when I come up, gentle look, a soft touch of a nose, a lick on my hands and occasionally my face. My horse can speak if I am truly listening. That being said I often ask him ‘Where does it hurt?’ He came to me without the ability to walk without great pain. I named him Champ because he takes everything like one and by asking him that one question and listening to his answers, he now walk, trots and canters when the weather allows. So, now I would ask him something ‘New’ and that is ‘How can I make it better?’
Leslie McCormack, via email

I would ask him one simple question. Are you happy? I chose this question because I feel it covers everything. He could respond with his answer and elaborate if needed. I would not ask him a question so specific where it wouldn’t satisfy my need to make sure he was completely content all of the time. Wanting to know and make sure your horse is happy is something every loving horse owner strives for.
Shaelyn Kelliher, New Hampshire

I am the Equine Program Coordinator at Green Chimneys, a New York State school for children who are socially, emotionally and behaviorally challenged. Much of our work is nature-based, so the equine program is scheduled into the students’ regular school day. I posted your question on our bulletin board, making it an option for any student, staff or volunteer to respond. Here is what they said:

Student responses:
Do you like this place?—Jamie

Would you like more water? How are people treating you? Do you like to be ridden? Is there anything we can do better?—Shaq

Are you happy?—Nick

Do you remember your childhood?—Jenny

Do you have a crush on anybody? If you do, who is it?—Summer

Do you like it when I ride you?—Andrea

Do you like the food that you eat here? Is Christmas bran mash your favorite? How do you feel about people riding you? How do you feel about other animals being around you? What is your favorite type of weather?—William

Buckley, why don’t you like to steer?—Xavier

Do you get jealous when I ride another horse?—Paulina

What would you like from MacDonald’s?—Matt

Volunteer responses:
Am I doing a good job taking care of you? Are you happy?—Carol

Do you remember your mother? What memories do you have—Melissa

Do you enjoy being ridden or would you rather run wild—Joanne

What were some of the most enjoyable days of your life—Frank

Why do you crib—Joan (to her own horse)

Staff responses:
Do you get tired of eating the same thing every day?—Andrea (social worker)

What can I do to make you happier?—Rachel (child care/dorm staff)
Carol Parker, New York

My first question to each of my three horses would be, “Are you happy?” If not, I’d want to know what I could do to make them happier? What can I do when riding that would benefit you and help bring out the very best in you? Does anything hurt? Do you like your stablemates? (That one would be asked individually as not to hurt anyone’s feelings.)
Victoria, New Jersey

I have a 23-year-old Thoroughbred gelding I have ridden since he was 5. I’d like to know how he wants to spend his last years and if he understands how much I love him and how thankful I am for his generous heart. Before I bought him he had an incident where he almost drowned, and I’d want to hear that story from his perspective and why he will still jump through water like it’s nothing. I’d want to know what the best time of his life was and what I can do to make him as comfortable as possible.
Lisa Johnson, Minnesota

Read more answers to this question in the May 2013 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.

Given the forces that this joint handles day in and day out, it’s not unusual for horses to develop SI pain. The trick is recognizing the problem: SI injuries are notoriously hard to pin down, with subtle and confusing signs, easily mistaken for other physical or even behavioral problems. Even a “hunter’s bump,” a raised area at the top of the croup that’s often thought to reveal SI trouble, isn’t a reliable sign. (For a closer look inside the joint, see the box below.)

How can you tell if your horse develops SI pain? And, more to the point, what can you do to help him if he does? For this article, we asked Kevin Haussler, DVM, DC, PhD, of the College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences at Colorado State University, for help in answering those questions.

Who’s at Risk?
Any horse can injure his SI joint in a fall or some other accident. The injury may leave the joint less stable than it was originally, so it can become a source of chronic pain. Performance horses may develop SI problems through simple wear and tear—and the more mechanical stress the joint comes under, the greater the risk, Dr. Haussler says. SI problems are fairly common. In one recent survey, these problems accounted for more than half of 124 horses presented for back problems at the University of Minnesota equine clinic.

Show jumping and dressage seem to be especially hard on the joint, according to a study carried out by Sue Dyson, FRCVS, and others at the Center for Equine Studies, Animal Health Trust, Newmarket, United Kingdom. That study analyzed records of 74 horses seen for SI pain at the center. Dressage horses and show jumpers accounted for almost 60 percent of the group. Slightly more than half were warmbloods, suggesting that breed may play a role. And horses with SI pain tended to be taller and heavier than average, another sign that mechanical stress is an important factor.

Under stress, Dr. Haussler says, the joint can be injured in several ways. The SI ligaments can tear, just as ligaments and tendons in a limb can give way under stress. And the joint itself, like the hock or any other joint, can become inflamed. Over time, osteoarthritis develops—cartilage wears away and bone remodels. Thoroughbred racehorses sometimes get pelvic stress fractures directly over the SI joint, and those need to be differentiated from SI joint arthritis.

“Well, Doc, he’s just a little needle shy,” or “he doesn’t like vets much.” Translated? “He’s going to try to kill you if you even think about showing him a needle. I don’t know how you’re ever going to get near him, much less get him vaccinated/sedated/medicated.”

We vets have all seen ’em—those horses that just won’t tolerate a needle. They rear, strike, and bite. Some run away, others run us over. Some even twist their bodies into a pretzel trying to kick us out of the way. If you’ve ever owned a needle-phobic horse, you’re probably well aware of how anxiety-producing even yearly vaccination appointments can be—never mind what you’d do if your horse ever had a serious injury or illness. How could your vet ever provide treatment?

For your horse’s own good, these needle nightmares need solving—fast. I’m going to help you understand why your horse behaves this way, and explain what you can do about it. Then, I’ll give you some suggestions for short-term fixes that you can use to get the job done in a pinch. Most important, I’ll help you plan the steps you’ll need to take for a long-term fix, so you can turn your horse’s needle “whoas” into needle “goes.”

Why Does He Behave This Way?
Your horse’s no-way needle behavior usually has one of two possible underlying causes: He’s truly afraid, or he’s just downright defiant.

If your horse is really afraid, he’ll usually resist the needle with maneuvers that are all about leaving the scene. He’ll run backward across the stall, may rear, or spin away and fling his head. If the stall door is open, he’ll try to run through it, dragging his handler along for the ride.

The fearful horse may have become this way because of a lack of handling or bad experience in his past. Sometimes, he’s just timid, and listening to what his prey-animal instincts are telling him when he perceives a threat: Get out of there, and fast.

The defiant horse has a completely different story, and typically avoids the needle with an alternative set of tricks. He’ll come at you when you approach, often striking or even biting at the person with the needle. He’s much more likely to smash you into the stall wall than he is to drag you out the door, and he’s a specialist at the pretzel maneuver, curling his body around to kick you if he can. (Give me a frightened horse any day of the week.)

Why is he defiant? Many owners of defiant horses tell me, “I just don’t understand. He’s always good for everything else.” But here’s the catch. When I ask that same owner if he or she has ever done anything the horse doesn’t like, the owner can’t come up with an example. Well, guess what? Just like a child who always gets what he or she wants, a defiant horse will always be pleasant—until you dare to say no. That’s when temper tantrums strike.

The Short-Term Fix
Suppose your no-way-needle horse has a severe colic episode, or ugly wound that requires immediate treatment. What are you going to do?

At minimum, your vet will have to administer sedation, usually with a needle. And we vets usually have a pretty good set of tricks up our sleeves to make that happen, no matter what your horse says. You may not always like how these tricks look. We don’t always like them either, but bear in mind: Our goal is to help your horse, and keep all of the humans safe at the same time. The following is a list of “get it done” techniques we may need to employ.

Shoulder Roll
What it is: We grasp a large handful of skin at the base of your horse’s neck at the level of his shoulder, and roll it strongly around our hand against the underlying muscle. This is sometimes called a skin twitch.

Works best for: This restraint technique is best for times when a quick needle stick is all that’s needed—ideal for a vaccination. Because your horse will usually lean away from the skin-twitched side, it works well if he’s a horse that wants to strike, rear, or push over the top of the person with the needle. A skin twitch is especially handy when working without an assistant, because it leaves one hand free to manipulate the needle. It’s my preferred technique for rowdy youngsters getting first shots.

Lip Twitch
What it is: We grasp and twist your horse’s upper lip, either holding it in our hand or putting it into the rope loop at the end of a handle (a device known as a “twitch”). Not only does a lip twitch act as a distractor, some believe it also stimulates release of endorphins (the body’s natural tranquilizer) in your horse’s system.

Works best for: Response to a twitch is highly variable. Some horses respond by standing still, some don’t, and how your horse will respond is hard to predict. If your horse is head shy, difficult for oral medications, or just very opinionated about being handled around his face, a twitch will be difficult to apply. If he rears when he resists, a twitch can be dangerous. If the twitch can be applied with minimal drama, however, it can be a very effective restraint tool for almost any situation.

Lip Chain
What it is: A chain at the end of your lead rope that runs through the halter rings and is applied under your horse’s upper lip, along his gums. When pressure is applied to the rope, pressure also is exerted on the sensitive gum tissues, acting as a restraint.

Works best for: A lip chain is a powerful tool. Although it may seem “mean,” it’s sometimes the only thing that works when it’s really necessary to restrain a dangerously insistent horse. To ensure that the chain is effective, not cruel, it’s especially important that the person handling the rope is both skilled and sensitive about when to apply and release pressure. In untrained hands, a lip chain can do major damage.

Ill-fitting saddles cause many common problems – behavioural, health, training, long term damage.

Damage to spinal processes and vertebrae may occur over time when a horse hollows its back from a too narrow channel or when a saddle slips to one side because it has not been fitted properly to an asymmetric shoulder.  Chipped shoulder cartilage may result from the impact of forward facing saddle tree points. White hairs and sores in the wither area arise from a saddle tree too narrow in angle or width.

Sadly, these are preventable if the saddle is correctly fit to both rider and horse, in both static and dynamic states. The importance of maintaining ongoing optimal fit is crucial. Your horse’s conformation changes at  3, 5 and 8 years as it matures, but weight fluctuations also occur from training, conditioning,  illness, or other periods of inactivity - necessitating additional re-fitting of your saddle (not only by reflocking but also at the gullet plate).

Invest in your horse’s ongoing health with an annual saddle fit check from a qualified fitter. Evaluate the saddle support area and sweat pattern (static and dynamic) and listen to what your horse is trying to tell you.

Brought to you by Schleese – Ride pain free. For you. For your horse.
www.SaddlesforWomen.com and Guys too! 1-800-225-2242 www.Saddlefit4life.com

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