Respiratory Problems
Some older horses may have respiratory difficulties such as heaves (recurrent airway obstruction or RAO) or inflammatory airway disease (IAD). If your veterinarian has diagnosed a respiratory condition in your older horse, feeding and environment changes to reduce dust and allergens will be helpful. Feeding a complete feed such as Purina® Equine Senior® horse feed or Omolene #400® horse feed allows you to decrease or eliminate hay in an attempt to reduce the amount of dust and pollens the horse may inhale.

Suggestions to manage horses with respiratory conditions:
Strictly follow your veterinarian’s instructions with regard to housing/barn access
• Avoid excessive exercise.
• Keep pasture mowed if horse is allergic to outdoor pollens.
• Provide adequate ventilation in stalls and barns.
• Do not use dusty bedding in stalls or run-in sheds.
• Consult your veterinarian to determine if anti-inflammatory medications or other medical interventions are indicated.

Body Weight and Condition
As horses age, their metabolism is altered. They usually fall into one of two categories:
• Easy Keepers – Reduced metabolism and activity result in excessive weight gain that can be hazardous to the horse’s health.
• Hard Keepers – Loss of body weight, condition, and muscle mass caused by reduced digestive efficiency and medical issues affecting metabolic rates.

It is more common to see older horses that are underweight than overweight. As previously discussed, senior horses tend to have problems with poor dental condition, along with decreased digestive efficiency. In these situations, Equine Senior® horse feed fed to replace most or all of the forage in the diet can help.

If the older horse is too fat, aim to reduce its weight to maintain a body condition score of about five. As long as the horse is able to utilize good quality hay, a good option for taking weight off is to feed hay and Purina® Enrich 32® horse feed, or a moderate calorie feed such as Equine Senior® Active Healthy Edge® horse feed. If the horse cannot adequately chew hay, it may be beneficial to reduce the amount of Equine Senior® horse feed fed, or possibly feed Equine Adult® horse feed, which is lower in calories than Equine Senior® horse feed.

Obese senior horses may suffer from Equine Metabolic Syndrome (sometimes improperly referred to as hypothyroidism or peripheral Cushing’s disease). These horses tend to store excess fat, especially along the crest of the neck, over the shoulders, on the rump, and in the sheath (geldings), and often exhibit chronic laminitis. Horses affected with Equine Metabolic Syndrome may also exhibit insulin resistance, in which blood glucose (sugar) is not adequately removed from the blood via the hormone insulin. At this time, Equine Metabolic Syndrome is not completely understood, but it is believed by researchers that obesity, as well as a genetic susceptibility, are important predisposing conditions. If Equine Metabolic Syndrome has been diagnosed, it may be helpful to reduce the amount of starch and sugars in the horse’s diet to help decrease the amount of blood glucose. Equine Senior® horse feed is formulated to contain reduced levels of starch and sugars, and has been fed successfully to many horses with this condition. Purina® WellSolve L/S® horse feed is also an appropriate option for insulin resistant older horses. Additionally, it is important to consider the hay and or pasture fed in these situations, since grasses can contain high levels of soluble carbohydrates (starches and sugars).

Haircoat and Skin
Horses of all ages may suffer from poor haircoat and skin condition due to poor nutrition, but aging horses may be especially susceptible. Good grooming and proper nutrition can go a long way toward addressing these conditions.

An older horse with a long haircoat that sheds late in the year, or incompletely, may be suffering from Pituitary Pars Intermedia Disease (PPID), commonly referred to as Cushing’s disease or syndrome. PPID is caused by a tumor in the pituitary gland in the horse’s brain. Symptoms include the long haircoat, loss of muscle mass, and excessive drinking and urination. If you feel that your horse is exhibiting these symptoms, consult your veterinarian. Horses with PPID may also exhibit insulin resistance and can benefit from diets lower in starch and sugars and higher in fat and fiber. Equine Senior® horse feed has been fed very successfully to horses with PPID, and was designed to help manage the condition. However, veterinary care is essential in proper care of horses suffering from PPID.

Chronic Lameness
There are many causes of lameness in aging horses, such as chronic laminitis (founder), arthritis or stiffness from weakened bones due to demineralization. Veterinary care is important in diagnosing the cause of lameness and alleviating pain.

Suggestions to manage older horses with chronic lameness:
• Avoid obesity and heavy loads because extra weight burdens aging joints, tendons and ligaments. Overweight horses may also be prone to laminitis.
• Have a reliable farrier provide routine hoof care every 6–8 weeks.
• Provide regular, moderate exercise (if approved by your veterinarian). Gradual workouts at least four times a week are recommended. Avoid abrupt changes in exercise duration or intensity. Ride or walk on softer surfaces such as grass or light, sandy soil if lameness is a problem.

As far as nutrition, the objective is to provide a nutritionally balanced diet with more calories from fat and fiber (as compared to calories from starch/sugars) along with adequate high-quality protein and an appropriate vitamin and mineral balance to meet the aging horse’s needs. Some horses may also benefit from a high quality oral joint supplement, such as Purina® FreedomFlex™Joint Health Product, added to the diet.

In summary, providing a high quality, nutritionally balanced diet to meet the special needs of the aging horse, such as Purina® Equine Senior® horse feed, Equine Senior® Active Healthy Edge® horse feed or Purina® WellSolve L/S® horse feed in coordination with an overall health and management program as recommended by your veterinarian, will help ensure that your horse will live comfortably in good health for as long as possible.

Katie Young, Ph.D.

Technical Equine Nutritionist
with Purina Animal Nutrition

Dr. Katie Young is an equine nutritionist with Purina Animal Nutrition. Dr. Young has worked with Purina for more than 11 years, beginning as a consultant, and now in her current role as a Technical Equine Nutritionist. Her responsibilities include providing technical support for the Purina sales force, certified expert dealers and customers, developing and maintaining horse feed formulas and standards, as well as ingredient and production standards.

Dr. Young has almost 40 years of experience in the horse industry. She started riding as a child in southwest Missouri, first as a barrel racer, and later moving into hunter-jumper. After moving to Texas, Dr. Young continued participating in hunter-jumper shows, as well as dressage and combined training competitions, and played competitive polocrosse. Currently, she rides and competes in dressage and combined training with two of her six horses. Dr. Young has worked as a trainer and riding instructor for more than 30 years, and continues do so in the Kansas City area.

Dr. Young earned a bachelor's degree from Missouri State University and a doctorate in Equine Nutrition and Exercise Physiology from Texas A&M University.

You’ve taken stock of your barn, and have found signs of wear and tear. Or, you finally have that slice of horse heaven and are ready to build for the first time.

Either way, this article can help. We’ll give you six barn-design basics, plus tips on how to select a builder.

Barn Building 101
Today’s barn options are many, from a pole barn with dirt floors to an insulated, padded horse heaven. You can build your own barn, buy a prefabricated model, or hire a company to custom-build your barn for you.

Typically, building your own is the least expensive choice (if you know what you’re doing), a custom barn is your costliest choice, and a prefab barn lies in the middle of the cost scale.

Which type of barn is right for you? Major considerations include type/materials, size, layout/design, cost, and add-ons. Here’s a quick look at each one.

• Type/materials. Barn type and materials go hand in hand. Consider a wood barn if you live in an area with a low fire risk, and would like to build the barn yourself or have one custom built. Note that wood — while cost-effective for small barns — costs more and is more difficult to maintain than steel models. Prefabricated barns are made from steel, which is strong, reasonably priced, a breeze to keep up, and great for areas with high fire risk. Steel barns do, however, lack the character and warmth of a wood barn.

• Layout. Next, decide how many and what size stalls you need (the bigger the stall, the happier your horse will be), how much feed and hay storage you need, and the size you’d like your tack room to be (if any). Depending on your budget, you might want a wash rack/vet-care area, storage for wheelbarrows and other stable supplies, and even a bathroom or an office.

Layout and design is the fun part of barn building, but if your “wants” exceed your budget, it’s easy to get frustrated. Stable Wise can translate your needs into barn plans and provide you with blueprints. It also offers ready-made barn plans and barn-building information. Homestead Design, Inc., also offers a wide selection of ready-made barn plans.

• Cost. What you’ll pay for your barn varies widely, depending on the type of construction you use. A no-frills pole barn with a metal shell is around $4 per square foot. Custom barns can run you into six figures. Whatever you choose, be sure to factor in materials, insulation, excavation, grading, concrete foundation, water lines, stalls (including mats and fittings), and add-ons.

Also consider location. If you build on an uneven surface, an excavator will charge more than if you build on a flat one. If you’re tapping into a preexisting well, be sure that move will meet code in your area. Consider, too, how far you’ll need to lay your water pipes.

• Add-ons. These include such construction features as overhangs, eaves, gutters, flooring, ceilings, artificial light, doors, windows, and skylights. Give yourself plenty of electrical outlets for clippers, tank heaters, etc. Also, decide if you’d like to budget for an automatic watering system, and/or fly system.

• Ventilation. Good ventilation is critical to your horse’s health and well-being. Enclosed barns harbor ammonia fumes (from urine), hay dust, and other debris. Constant exposure to such irritants can put your horse at risk for chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (heaves). To minimize this risk, place your barn perpendicular to prevailing breezes, install a high ceiling, and add plenty of windows. Carve inlets near the ground to draw air in, and place vents and windows up high to let the air out. If your budget can handle it, install a cupola with an air turbine on the roof.

• Natural light. The more light you let into your barn, the better. The sun’s ultraviolet rays help kill harmful bacteria, viruses, and larvae of internal parasites. Again, this means plenty of windows. Another secret to good lighting is a raised center aisle (RCA) design, in which the roof is split into three parts. Two sides slope down to each eave, and a raised portion runs along the roof line. By placing windows in this raised portion, you can increase light and ventilation.

For the one-horse owner, MDBarnmaster offers this affordable model, with one 12-by-12-foot stall, an 8-foot tack room, a rear paddock, and a 10-foot overhang.

Builder-Selection Tips
Unless you’re doing all the work yourself, the next step is to select a builder. You can check out a nationwide builder. Or, you may prefer to find a regional builder working in a multi-state region. To find a regional builder, pick up a local agriculture publication, or go to a local horse expo, show, or other horse event.

You can also talk to a local builder. To find one, talk to other horse owners in your area, check tack/feed stores, hardware stores, and your phone book.

If you drive past a barn you like, ask the owner who built it. (Note: If you go with a regional or local builder, check out other barns the company has built, and ask for references.)

You might find that your barn builder also builds stalls, can finish your tack room, and/or lay a foundation. This may be more cost-effective than subcontracting all the work needed.

Make sure you feel comfortable working with the representative from the company you’ve chosen. Invariably, miscommunications occur, you’ll change your mind, or you’ll have new ideas for your barn, so choose someone you feel will work with you.

During construction, keep a close eye on the progress, but be flexible. For instance, if the salesman who sold you the barn hasn’t visited your premises, the builder may need to make some changes.

Finally, look for a company that will guarantee its work, and is established. A new company may give you a low bid, but might not be around later. If things start to go wrong, you’ll be out of luck.

National Barn Builders

ACE Buildings

American Steel Buildings

Ameri Stall

Castlebrook Barns

Cleary Building

Heritage Building Systems

Lester Buildings

MDBarnmaster

Morton Buildings, Inc.

Universal Steel Structures

Walters Buildings

Weldy Enterprises

Wick Buildings

Q: If a mare with neurological problems gives birth, will the foal mimic her odd behavior? This is an ongoing debate at our barn. Some people are theorizing that as mom walks, baby walks, and as mom eats, baby eats. I understand that some foals, however, can be born with neurological diseases. Can you help us settle this?

A: Although it is true that foals sometimes mimic the behavioral patterns of their mothers, those born to mares with neurological issues generally do not imitate those deficits. At our neonatal intensive care unit, we have delivered many foals from mares who were afflicted with equine0 protozoal myeloencephalitis (EPM), one of the more common infectious neurological diseases seen in horses. These foals do not display any of the neurological signs their mothers do.

However, foals can be born infected with organisms that cause neurological disease that are passed down from the mother. For example, studies show that one of the organisms that can cause EPM, Neospora hughesi, can be transmitted via the placenta to the fetus carried by some naturally infected mares; however, the foals who were found to be infected with the protozoa did not necessarily demonstrate neurological signs for up to three months after birth. Likewise, transmission of the highly contagious equine herpesvirus type-1 (EHV-1) can also occur from the dam to the fetus via the placenta, but while these foals are born with EHV-1 in their bloodstream and various organs (lungs, liver, thymus), the majority of them do not show any neurological signs.

The most common cause of neurological disease seen in the newborn foal is neonatal encephalopathy. This can occur when the fetus is deprived of oxygen in the womb because the placenta is not functioning properly, usually because of a bacterial infection (placentitis). In cases like these, the foals are born with neurological abnormalities, such as incoordination and lack of the suckle reflex. Neonatal encephalopathy may also develop in foals who are deprived of oxygen for too long during the birthing process, as we often see with difficult deliveries (dystocias); these foals generally do not develop neurological signs for up to 18 to 24 hours. In both scenarios, the lack of oxygen leads to fluid accumulation in the brain tissue (cerebral edema), and damage may also occur to other organ systems, such as the kidneys and gastrointestinal tract. The prognosis for these foals is generally very good if they are treated early and appropriately.

Rodney L. Belgrave, DVM, DACVIM
Director of Internal Medicine
Mid-Atlantic Equine Medical Center
Ringoes, New Jersey

Any horse might kick under the right circumstances, and the possibility of becoming the target of a well-aimed hoof is always with us. Most of us learn commonsense guidelines of defensive horsemanship early on, but it’s easy to get complacent among trusted horses. To stay safe, it’s wise to always keep these rules in mind:

• Stay alert. Focus your attention on the horse you’re working with as well as any who are close by. Pay attention to a swishing tail, pinned ears, flared nostrils and other signs that a horse is getting annoyed, and take steps to diffuse the situation before he “blows up.”

• Watch herd interactions. Steer clear of any who seem alarmed or threatened by your presence. Also sidestep any developing skirmishes.

• Avoid carrying feed or treats through a herd. Horses can become competitive and/or aggressive to get to the food, and you could inadvertently be on the receiving end of their blows.

• Don’t ride among loose horses. A horse at liberty may send yours a “don’t come closer” message that puts your leg in the line of fire.

• Tie horses far enough apart so that they can’t kick each other. You’ll also need a safe buffer zone so you can remain out of reach while walking between them.

• Stay close to a horse’s body when working around him on the ground. The most damaging kicks happen when a horse has enough room to fully extend his leg. Kicks at close range hurt but are less likely to cause serious injury.

• Put away your cell phone. Whether you’re on foot or in the saddle, stop talking, texting and indulging in other smartphone activities. Safety around horses requires your full attention.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

This is a story of a stupid mistake---one that led to a terrifying accident that could easily have cost my horse’s life. I still get anxious thinking about what happened that day, and part of me would like to forget it entirely, but I think it’s important to share my story. My goal is to remind people not to fall into bad habits or to forget that horses---even those you know and trust---are large, powerful and unpredictable animals.

My husband, Kurt, and I own a few acres in Columbia, Missouri, that gives us just enough space to keep a small herd for our family to enjoy. Our setup isn’t fancy, but it serves us well.

For my birthday one year Kurt built me a small but cozy barn that included one very large 10- by 20-foot stall and a smaller 10- by 10-foot stall. The walls are four feet of tongue-and-groove boards topped with vertical metal bars. The gaps between the bars are small---only 2  inches---but they allow plenty of light and air to flow through.

At the time of the accident we owned three horses: Cloud, a registered Quarter Horse gelding; Britches, a 12-year-old Haflinger gelding; and Jiffy, a 3-year-old Welsh pony cross. I’d bought Cloud just a year before; I’d been looking for a smallish, well-trained, unflappable horse, and he was a perfect fit. He was years younger and only slightly taller than Britches, so I didn’t anticipate my new horse would have any problems settling in. I was right. Britches took an immediate liking to Cloud, and they became good friends.

During the day, the three horses could come and go into the barn and stalls at will. I’d often find Cloud and Britches dozing together in the larger stall. To accommodate them at feeding time, I hung grain tubs at opposite ends of the larger stall and one in the smaller stall, for Jiffy, and I’d let Cloud and Britches eat their meal together.

Occasionally, I’d lock the two of them in the stall together for short periods of time--never longer than it took to receive a hay delivery or mow the fields. Neither horse had ever shown any aggression toward the other, and the stall-sharing arrangement worked well.

Until one day, it didn’t.

One Saturday morning in September 2009 I went out to await a shipment of hay. To get the horses out of the way I dumped a handful of grain into each corner feeder. Just as he always had, Cloud walked into the large stall and went to the far corner to
eat. Britches ambled in after him and went to his own corner, while Jiffy headed into the small stall. I then closed both doors.

Moments later I heard a horrible ruckus, and I spun around just in time to see Cloud kicking out at Britches with both hind legs. The kicks were high and powerful. There was no doubt he meant business. As Cloud backed up to take aim again, the pony scooted out of his way.

Cloud’s next kick missed Britches and landed squarely on the stall bars, four feet above the floor. His left rear hoof struck the metal with such force that it bent the bars just enough to allow his foot to slip through. His leg immediately dropped to the surface of the wooden wall, leaving Cloud standing on three legs, with his left hind stretched backward and upward, his hoof trapped between two thick metal bars. It happened in a split second.

Cloud panicked. He lunged forward and back, trying to pull his hoof free. With each attempt to back up, he pushed his leg into the adjacent stall almost to his hock. Then he’d scramble forward, scraping his skin down to the fetlock. Each time he lunged, it seemed he could rip his foot right off. It was horrifying to watch, and I was sure he was going to break his leg.

Two factors probably saved Cloud that day. One was that I had my cell phone in my pocket, and the second was that Kurt was home. He came running from the house as soon as I called him. I opened the stall door to let Britches out and tried to calm Cloud from a distance, but I didn’t want to get too close. He was wild-eyed with fear and pain.

With one glance at the situation Kurt sprinted to the garage and came back with a pry bar to widen the gap for Cloud’s foot. But he couldn’t get the leverage he needed to bend the bars.

Cloud’s panicky, crazed lunging continued, and his leg was becoming a bloody, raw mess. I feared he was stripping his flesh to the bone.

Kurt then ran into the adjacent stall and grabbed Cloud’s trapped hoof. I have no idea how he managed to hold onto it as Cloud continued to struggle, but he did. Arm muscles bulging, he lifted the gelding’s hoof high enough to reach the slight gap where the bars had been bent by the impact of the kick. Lifting the leg to such a steep angle must have caused Cloud intense pain. But with a mighty shove, and aided by a final lunge forward, Kurt forced Cloud’s hoof back through the bars.

The leg had been trapped for maybe 10 or 15 minutes.

Damage done
Cloud stood alone in the large stall, holding the injured limb in the air, his blood streaming down and pooling on the stall floor. With shaking hands, I called our veterinary clinic, and within 15 minutes Tawna Purcell, DVM, arrived at the farm.

Purcell listened carefully to our account as she examined Cloud’s leg. Then she gave him an injection of a sedative, xylazine. If his leg was injured and he placed his full weight on it in a fit of panic, he could make the situation much worse.

Within a few minutes, Cloud relaxed and rested the hoof gingerly on the ground. Purcell gave him an injection of phenylbutazone to control his pain and the inflammation, then she palpated and flexed his leg, looking for any indication of fracture, such as an area of extreme swelling or tenderness. Nothing made her immediately suspect a bone or joint injury, although that didn’t mean he didn’t have one; if he did, it just wasn’t obvious.

Next she began cleaning Cloud’s wounds, which, it turned out, looked worse than they actually were. In fact, most were just superficial abrasions that hadn’t removed any more than the top layer of skin. One deeper cut midway between his hock and fetlock gaped open and bled freely, but no bones or tendons were visible.

By the time Purcell was finished, Cloud’s leg looked much better, and he was bearing weight on it, but we were not yet out of danger. Cloud showed signs of pain as his fetlock joint was flexed, which, Purcell explained, might indicate some fractures in the area. Another possibility was that he avulsed a collateral ligament of the fetlock joint---in other words, pulled the ligament free from the bone. She took a series of radiographs of his pastern, fetlock and cannon bone to view later at the office.

Purcell covered Cloud’s wounds with Thermazene, a silver sulfadiazine-based antibiotic wound cream, and wrapped his leg from hock to hoof. Then, to protect his lower leg in case he had sustained serious bone or tendon injury, she used layers and layers of padding to create a thick Robert Jones bandage. She also applied a standing wrap to support Cloud’s uninjured right rear leg--sometimes, horses who injure one leg and are forced to bear a disproportionate amount of weight on the opposite side may develop laminitis in the “good” foot. Purcell left me a tube of phenylbutazone with instructions to continue administering it over the
coming days.

Rest and recuperation
Within an hour Purcell called to say that the radiographs showed no evidence of fractures or avulsions. That was wonderful news. But she did warn me that Cloud might have strained his ligaments by pulling so hard with his leg locked in such a high position. She suggested I keep him in his stall and leave the bandage on until she returned on Monday morning. I was to remove the bandage only if I saw any swelling of the leg in the region above the wraps.

Cloud was miserable confined to his stall. I spent most of the next day with him, brushing his beautiful coat, combing his tail, feeding him carrots, and wondering whether he would recover. I examined the leg above his hock so many times, I think I burned the image into my retina. The more I looked at it, the more I imagined it was puffing up. But Kurt, who came out to check on us four or five times that day, reassured me that the leg was not swollen.

Purcell removed the thick bandage when she returned on Monday morning, which was a bit dicey because the gauze pads were stuck to the wounds, but Cloud didn’t put up much of a fuss. I then walked him carefully around the exam area. To everyone’s relief, he was reasonably sound, considering what he had been through.

After examining the leg again and watching him move, Purcell said she doubted Cloud had sustained any serious injuries to his bones, ligaments or joints. His slight lameness, she said, was most likely the result of lingering pain from sore muscles he’d sustained during his struggle against the bars.

Still, we weren’t entirely out of the woods. As Purcell rebandaged Cloud, she said that we would have to wait to see if he developed a bony sequestrum. Sometimes, she explained, significant trauma bruises and kills a portion of a bone, which separates from the parent bone. The body treats that fragment of dead bone as a foreign object and tries to get rid of it--the signs are a horribly swollen leg and lameness that develops anywhere from one to three weeks after the initial injury.

The only treatment for a sequestrum is to surgically remove the dead bone fragment. Although Purcell assured me that the procedure is fairly straightforward and usually successful, we both hoped to avoid this complication.

Full recovery
Cloud was unhappy the next day, Tuesday. He’s not accustomed to confinement, and he paced in his stall all day. I gave him all the good-quality hay he wanted, but I could see that he was already losing weight.

Purcell came back on Wednesday to change the bandage. She had offered to show me how to do it myself, but I was too afraid I’d miss something, or wrap him too loosely or too tightly. The visit went smoothly, and Purcell told me I could begin hand-walking Cloud twice a day, which would help him cope with stall confinement.

She returned again late the next day and was pleased when she removed the bandage---the abrasions were healing nicely. She rewrapped both hind legs with plain standing wraps and turned Cloud loose in the ring for the first time since his accident. He cantered and bucked and had a great time. He was still noticeably lame at the trot, but Purcell said that was not surprising. He was probably still sore.

It was now up to me to take on cleaning, medicating and rewrapping Cloud’s leg every day. His wounds continued to heal well, and he was getting sounder, although I worried he was getting depressed because he couldn’t yet join his herdmates.

Purcell returned for a follow-up check when Cloud’s injury was two weeks old. The skin was nearly healed, but he had developed a two-inch horizontal crack on the outside of his injured hoof. Purcell explained that a cut on the coronary band probably disrupted the hoof growth in that area for a short time. She told us to keep an eye on the crack, but she suspected it would grow out of his hoof without causing any real troubles.

Cloud was still slightly “off,” but Purcell suggested I start light riding so he could stretch and strengthen his sore muscles. That Saturday and Sunday, I got on Cloud bareback and ambled quietly around the ring. On Monday, I trotted him under saddle, and he was sound.

We still had a few anxious weeks ahead of us, waiting for the dreaded sequestrum to appear, but Cloud continued to stay sound. Our farrier kept a close eye on the hoof crack, but it required no special treatment as it progressed down his hoof over the
following months.

Three years later, the only tangible reminder of that terrifying day is a single, very small scar midway down Cloud’s back leg. But we cannot forget what could have happened: If Cloud had slipped and fallen while trapped, his leg could have snapped, or he could have dislocated joints, torn ligaments or stripped flesh down to the bone.

We were very lucky, and for that we remain grateful.

Why did Cloud attack Britches? We’ll never know. But one thing is for sure: I’ll never again make the mistake of putting two horses in the same stall, no matter how friendly they are.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

Recently, a friend told me she was having trouble finding a trainer to start her 9-year-old horse under saddle. One refused to take on the horse without giving any reason, then another told her that horses were no longer trainable after they turned 9. This surprised us both: Neither of us considers a 9-year-old horse to be “old.”

I am well aware of the prejudice against training older horses who’ve never been ridden or those still considered “green.” However, as founder and president of Bluebonnet Equine Humane Society in Waco, Texas, I have had the opportunity to work with such horses, and I can assure you that there’s no particular age at which it’s too late to start a horse. They’re all individuals---some young horses can be quite a handful, while some older ones settle right into their new jobs.

In fact, I’ve found that most older horses are more than capable of learning new skills or unlearning bad habits. Plus, they offer some important advantages that younger horses do not:

• Unless they were abused or totally neglected, older horses---even the untrained ones---often have a “been there, done that” attitude that enables them to stay calm in new situations. They’ve seen more of the world than younger horses have, and this, in many cases, allows your training to progress much more quickly.

• The personality of an older horse is already defined, so you know what you have to work with. However, this does mean that you need to carefully evaluate the personality of an older horse before committing to him, because he’s not likely to change. For
instance, work and experience may help eliminate spookiness, but an older horse who is more reactive and hotter than others will probably stay that way.

• Older horses have reached their full height, and any conformation problems will have shown up already. You won’t be left guessing what they’ll look like when they’re done maturing.

• The mental maturity of an older horse gives him a longer attention span. He’ll retain more from longer, more in-depth training sessions than a younger horse would.

• In most parts of the country you can probably acquire an untrained older horse for free or nearly nothing. Once you’ve invested your time in training, you may end up with a much nicer horse than you could normally afford.

Also remember that, thanks to improved nutrition and veterinary care, a horse in his late teens or 20s these days can still be in great physical shape. Riders who don’t mind putting in a little effort can often get a nice horse that they can enjoy for many years, for very little money.

Considering all of this, I would encourage anyone with time and training experience to take a chance on a slightly older horse, even if that horse has no or very limited experience under saddle. There are, however, a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure that your horse will be physically capable of participating in your chosen discipline (see “Health Check,” page 64). Then, consider whether you have the time, patience and experience you’ll need for the type of older horse you’re considering: There’s a huge difference between an older horse who has never been handled, one who has been handled badly, and one who has been handled well. Although I believe that any horse can be trained, some will take longer than others.

To help illustrate the challenges and rewards of working with older green horses, here are a few examples of some I’ve met who have gotten fresh starts later in life.

Jericho: Overcoming poor handling
Jericho was about 15 and still a stallion when he was discovered wandering back county roads. We can’t say for sure that he was abused, but it was clear that whatever handling he’d had wasn’t consistent. He had learned to get his way by pinning his ears and snapping. After he was gelded, his foster caretakers had to act as if he’d never been trained at all to relay a foundation of respect, working hard to establish good manners on the ground and to teach him that biting isn’t acceptable. Because he was so set in his ways, it took many, often trying, weeks to work through his bad habits. But once he was behaving better in hand,a trainer was able to begin preparing him for work under saddle. Jericho is ridable, and because of that it will be easier to find him a stable home, but he’s probably always going to be a handful, so he’ll need to be placed with experienced handlers.

The difficulty you’ll have training an older horse depends in large part on the handling he has previously received. Three types of handling in particular may increase the training challenge.

• Harsh discipline--immediate, forceful punishment for any misbehavior---may not necessarily be abusive, but it can produce a timid horse who is scared of making mistakes. He may be constantly waiting for you to come down hard on him, and it can take months of consistent, kind handling before he begins to trust you. This type of horse often benefits from a lot of handling on the ground before he’s started under saddle. You still need to discipline misbehavior, but you also need to give the horse a chance to do well and reward him promptly when he does the right thing.

• Inconsistent handling often results in a spoiled horse who doesn’t know how to behave. Although these horses were sometimes disciplined for poor behavior, at other times they were allowed to have their own way without consequences. These horses will try your patience with repeated attempts to test their limits. They benefit from consistent handling during groundwork to teach them that misbehavior is always disciplined but that good behavior is also rewarded.

• Abused horses are the hardest to train. Fortunately, outright abuse, where the horse has been repeatedly beaten or even tortured, is very rare. Some horses fight to save themselves in the face of abuse, and it can be hard to stop fighting. They’re the ones who become dangerous to handle: Their immediate first reaction to anything they don’t like is to kick, strike or bite. If you find yourself with a horse like this on your hands, seek professional help. It takes a lot of consistent and careful handling to help these horses overcome their past, and they can be dangerous until they learn to trust humans again. Occasionally, a horse like this has been so traumatized that he can never recover.

Other horses react to abuse by shutting down emotionally and not responding to anything. They simply stand and take whatever their abuser dishes out. One effective approach is to simply spend time near these horses without handling them, and then to work with them consistently on the ground. The length and degree of the abuse these horses endured will affect how long it takes them to begin trusting you.

Windy: An adorable blank slate
Windy, a pinto pony---probably about 10 years old---was halter broke when she arrived at our rescue, but it was clear that that was about the extent of her training. She was spoiled and pushy, and she had most likely always gotten away with her bad behavior because she was so cute and little.

Our trainer spent several sessions just teaching her ground manners, but once Windy got those down, her training went quickly. Because she had seen more of the world, she was quieter and more settled than a younger horse would have been, and she adapted quickly to work under saddle. It didn’t take many months before Windy was ready to be placed with a family, and today she’s being ridden, doted upon and loved by small children.

Mature horses with little or no prior handling can be a challenge and take quite a while to train. The tougher cases are the mustangs or other feral horses who have never seen people before. They need to be accustomed to human handling before you can begin any real training, and the longer a horse has lived on his own, the harder it will be to gentle him. His sense of self-preservation grows each year, and he is going to be likely to flee anything he deems scary.

That said, feral horses can be gentled at an older age, but I find that they often remain highly reactive for the rest of their lives, even if they’re successfully trained to ride. In the beginning, these horses are more likely to try to jump or run through a fence to get away from you. You need to keep them in an enclosure with a stout fence that’s at least six feet high and made of horse-safe panels attached to wooden posts, woven wire hung on posts, or strong boards.

Horses who have been kept around people, just never handled, can still be a challenge, but they’re far easier to train than truly feral ones. You don’t have to worry about introducing them to the sight of people before you can start working with them. However, it’s still a good idea to keep them confined to a smaller pen with six-foot fencing because they can be prone to trying to flee when you begin to put pressure on them.

Halter breaking is the first step with a horse like this before you proceed to other groundwork, and this can take much longer than it does with a younger horse. But once they’ve accepted a halter, their under-saddle training tends to advance pretty quickly.

One advantage of working with an older green horse is that you don’t have to worry about overcoming someone else’s training mistakes. He’s a blank slate, as it were, for you to make your mark on.

Hermes: Building on a solid foundation
Hermes was a neglect case. When we picked him up, the 13- to 15-year-old stallion was emaciated and needed time to recover his health, but it was obvious he had been well handled at one point in his life. He led, stood tied and knew how to longe. He behaved himself around other horses and respected his handler’s personal space. Once Hermes gained weight and was gelded, I started working with him. Because he had such a good foundation, his retraining went quickly. I taught him to carry a saddle and bridle in no time. He went to a trainer for a few weeks, and everyone who met him was amazed at his progress. But the training he had years before was so good, it only needed to be uncovered for him to excel. Hermes was quickly adopted by a family as a show horse for their daughters.

Older horses who have had positive prior experiences are the easiest ones to train, even if they haven’t been ridden or worked with in years. Since they haven’t been mishandled, there are no bad habits or associations to overcome. They’re used to people and know what to expect from them and are generally trusting. Chances are, they’re already used to the routines of domestic life: farrier visits, veterinary exams, being caught and haltered, etc.

As long as this type of horse is physically capable, you can begin working with them right away. These horses often progress quickly through the groundwork stages: learning (or relearning) to longe, carry a saddle and carry a bridle fairly quickly.
Many older horses who were handled well previously also take to a rider without much fuss. They are a delight to work with.

There is a potential pitfall to these easygoing older guys, however. They can lull you into a sense of complacency. You’ll never want to forget that this is still a green and inexperienced horse. He may still become frightened, confused or spook. It’s only fair to give him the same level of understanding when he makes a mistake that you’d give a 4-year-old. Similarly, it can be easy to push these horses too fast. Remember that’s he’s still learning skills, even if he seems to be picking them up very fast. Don’t cut corners or skip steps in his training or you may end up with a resistant, cranky horse despite his great foundation.

Ask your friends if they’d be interested in a 10-year-old green-broke horse and you’re likely to be met with a few suspiciously raised eyebrows. It’s a natural reaction to assume something must be very wrong with a horse who makes it so far in life without more than just basic training. But the harsh reality is many older horses weren’t lucky enough to have a complete or quality education in their younger years.

This doesn’t mean they can never be useful mounts. In fact, many turn out to be terrific. If you think you have the resources and patience to take on an older green horse, I’d encourage you to, creating your own success story to share.

This article first appeared in EQUUS issue #427.

I would ask my horse, Sterling, “What brings you joy?” Joy is a special word. It connotes a state of mind and feeling that most humans don’t experience too often. We use many words to express positive feelings, but you rarely hear people describe something in their lives as bringing them joy.

Sterling has a retired life with me as his novice rider. In our 4 years together he has proven to be “A Horse of a Lifetime” and has taught me to ride, and trust, and truly find joy in sharing time with him in the saddle and on the ground. I would love to hear from him what I could do to bring him the same joy he brings me each day.

The simple and loving greeting when I enter the barn, the “discussions” we have about life and our overall trust in each other has proven to bring me joy every day of the week. I would love to hear from him what brings him joy...in what I know would be his calm and loving voice.
Debra Ladley, Pennsylvania

My family doesn’t live in a good place to have a horse, so of course I don’t have one. If I did, though, I’d ask him if I was treating him well, if he was OK with it, and how I could do better. I live near a horse farm and so I watch how the owners treat the horses and work with them, so when I get a horse hopefully he’ll have some good things to say.
Ashlyn Bair, Colorado

There is really only one question that actually matters and it’s a quote from Pat Parelli: “Was it as good for you as it was for me?” The relationship with our horses must come first. Since horses can’t speak we can read the answer to this question in the same way horses communicate with each other, in their body language.
Robin Dym, New Jersey

I would first ask if he hurts anywhere. Second, I’d ask what his favorite thing is that we do together and lastly, what is his least favorite thing we do together.
Amanda Wood, California

Our family had a horse from the time I was a preschooler until I attended graduate school. She was more of a pet than a horse—treated just like the dogs and cats in the yard. I would have asked her if we were doing everything we could to make her happy and keep her healthy. I would want to know if there was anything else she wanted from us. There were times when part of the fence would be down, but she didn’t stray, so I would like to think she was happy with us.
Joan Weston Bellinger, Columbia

I would say...How are you doing Truman? Is there anything I can do for you to make your life better? How does the saddle feel, is it still fitting you ok even though you are older & changing shape? Speaking of shape, I am sorry that I have gained a few pounds. I want you to know that I think you are the finest, most honest horse I have ever met, you are a real trooper and I really love you.
Dee Whitt, Arizona

My horse speaks to me all the time; a soft whickering when I come up, gentle look, a soft touch of a nose, a lick on my hands and occasionally my face. My horse can speak if I am truly listening. That being said I often ask him ‘Where does it hurt?’ He came to me without the ability to walk without great pain. I named him Champ because he takes everything like one and by asking him that one question and listening to his answers, he now walk, trots and canters when the weather allows. So, now I would ask him something ‘New’ and that is ‘How can I make it better?’
Leslie McCormack, via email

I would ask him one simple question. Are you happy? I chose this question because I feel it covers everything. He could respond with his answer and elaborate if needed. I would not ask him a question so specific where it wouldn’t satisfy my need to make sure he was completely content all of the time. Wanting to know and make sure your horse is happy is something every loving horse owner strives for.
Shaelyn Kelliher, New Hampshire

I am the Equine Program Coordinator at Green Chimneys, a New York State school for children who are socially, emotionally and behaviorally challenged. Much of our work is nature-based, so the equine program is scheduled into the students’ regular school day. I posted your question on our bulletin board, making it an option for any student, staff or volunteer to respond. Here is what they said:

Student responses:
Do you like this place?—Jamie

Would you like more water? How are people treating you? Do you like to be ridden? Is there anything we can do better?—Shaq

Are you happy?—Nick

Do you remember your childhood?—Jenny

Do you have a crush on anybody? If you do, who is it?—Summer

Do you like it when I ride you?—Andrea

Do you like the food that you eat here? Is Christmas bran mash your favorite? How do you feel about people riding you? How do you feel about other animals being around you? What is your favorite type of weather?—William

Buckley, why don’t you like to steer?—Xavier

Do you get jealous when I ride another horse?—Paulina

What would you like from MacDonald’s?—Matt

Volunteer responses:
Am I doing a good job taking care of you? Are you happy?—Carol

Do you remember your mother? What memories do you have—Melissa

Do you enjoy being ridden or would you rather run wild—Joanne

What were some of the most enjoyable days of your life—Frank

Why do you crib—Joan (to her own horse)

Staff responses:
Do you get tired of eating the same thing every day?—Andrea (social worker)

What can I do to make you happier?—Rachel (child care/dorm staff)
Carol Parker, New York

My first question to each of my three horses would be, “Are you happy?” If not, I’d want to know what I could do to make them happier? What can I do when riding that would benefit you and help bring out the very best in you? Does anything hurt? Do you like your stablemates? (That one would be asked individually as not to hurt anyone’s feelings.)
Victoria, New Jersey

I have a 23-year-old Thoroughbred gelding I have ridden since he was 5. I’d like to know how he wants to spend his last years and if he understands how much I love him and how thankful I am for his generous heart. Before I bought him he had an incident where he almost drowned, and I’d want to hear that story from his perspective and why he will still jump through water like it’s nothing. I’d want to know what the best time of his life was and what I can do to make him as comfortable as possible.
Lisa Johnson, Minnesota

Read more answers to this question in the May 2013 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.

Given the forces that this joint handles day in and day out, it’s not unusual for horses to develop SI pain. The trick is recognizing the problem: SI injuries are notoriously hard to pin down, with subtle and confusing signs, easily mistaken for other physical or even behavioral problems. Even a “hunter’s bump,” a raised area at the top of the croup that’s often thought to reveal SI trouble, isn’t a reliable sign. (For a closer look inside the joint, see the box below.)

How can you tell if your horse develops SI pain? And, more to the point, what can you do to help him if he does? For this article, we asked Kevin Haussler, DVM, DC, PhD, of the College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences at Colorado State University, for help in answering those questions.

Who’s at Risk?
Any horse can injure his SI joint in a fall or some other accident. The injury may leave the joint less stable than it was originally, so it can become a source of chronic pain. Performance horses may develop SI problems through simple wear and tear—and the more mechanical stress the joint comes under, the greater the risk, Dr. Haussler says. SI problems are fairly common. In one recent survey, these problems accounted for more than half of 124 horses presented for back problems at the University of Minnesota equine clinic.

Show jumping and dressage seem to be especially hard on the joint, according to a study carried out by Sue Dyson, FRCVS, and others at the Center for Equine Studies, Animal Health Trust, Newmarket, United Kingdom. That study analyzed records of 74 horses seen for SI pain at the center. Dressage horses and show jumpers accounted for almost 60 percent of the group. Slightly more than half were warmbloods, suggesting that breed may play a role. And horses with SI pain tended to be taller and heavier than average, another sign that mechanical stress is an important factor.

Under stress, Dr. Haussler says, the joint can be injured in several ways. The SI ligaments can tear, just as ligaments and tendons in a limb can give way under stress. And the joint itself, like the hock or any other joint, can become inflamed. Over time, osteoarthritis develops—cartilage wears away and bone remodels. Thoroughbred racehorses sometimes get pelvic stress fractures directly over the SI joint, and those need to be differentiated from SI joint arthritis.

Even if you don’t show your horse, you may wish to give him a light clip. At the very least, you should clip a bridle path to separate the mane and forelock, providing a place for the headstall to sit comfortably.

It’s also a good idea to get your horse used to clippers in case you or your veterinarian needs to clip around an injury.

Here, world champion trainer Lynn Palm demonstrates her gentle clipping technique. She introduces the clipper slowly. “Every time we work with our horses—and that includes grooming—clippers are always a part of it while they’re learning to accept to be clipped.” she notes.

Palm suggests investing in a clipper that has two speeds: a slow speed for the delicate areas around the head and a faster speed for the thicker hair on the lower legs. She also recommends a cordless clipper for maneuverability, especially if you’ll be working on a young horse.

Caveat: If you use a corded clipper, don’t allow the cord to drape in front of your horse’s head, where he might chew/nibble on it. He could be electrocuted. Also, keep the cord behind you, for safety reasons.

Step 1. Introduce sound only. First, Palm advises, get your horse used to the sound of the clipper. Turn on the clipper, and simply move around him. You might need to do this step for days, weeks, or even months, depending on how quickly your horse accepts the sound.

Step 2. Add feel. Second, get your horse used to the feel of clipper. To do this, you’ll first hold the clipper in your hand, then touch him with the back of your hand and arm. Start at the shoulder. (Don’t get near his head, which is the most sensitive area.) Work back and forth, and up and down, never touching him with the clipper.

Gauge your horse’s comfort level by watching where his eyes are looking and his ears are working. When he accepts this touch on his whole body, then move to his head. Start at his jaw, where the hairs are thicker and less sensitive, then move to the front of his forehead. Finally, move to his ears, his most sensitive area. Remember, you’re just touching him with your hand and arm.

Step 3. Clip the bridle path. When your horse accepts the sound and feel, you’re ready to clip his bridle path. Push ear forward, and clip back, away from his ears, for a nice, clean clip.

Step 4. Continue clipping. If you’d like to continue clipping around your horse’s head for the show arena, follow the steps in this video tutorial.

For complete DVDs describing Lynn Palm’s grooming techniques, visit www.lynnpalm.com. 

Lynn Palm is the founder of Palm Partnership Training. She’s shown more than 34 Quarter Horse world and reserve world champions, competing in both English and Western disciplines. She’s won a record four American Quarter Horse Association Superhorse titles and was the first rider to win the prestigious Superhorse title twice on the same horse, Rugged Lark.

Deworming is one of the basic elements of good horsekeeping. It should be a worry-free, routine practice that takes place several times a year.

Is your horse difficult to deworm? If so, he may have had a bad experience being dewormed or doesn’t like the taste of the dewormer.

Top trainer/clinician Clinton Anderson explains that most deworming issues aren’t the horse’s fault; it’s the owners’ approach to the process.

“Avoid sneaking up to your horse and jamming the dewormer in your horse’s mouth,” Anderson says. “Also, don’t walk straight up to your horse, hang on to the halter really tight, then jam the syringe in his mouth. You’ll make him defensive.

“Keep in mind that horses are prey animals,” he explains. “If you approach him and stick the dewormer in his face, like a predator, then he’s going to stick it back in your face and say, ‘Get lost!’

“On the other hand, if you walk up to your horse and kind of act casual about it, pretty soon, you’ll notice that a lot of his defensiveness will go away and he won’t be worried about getting dewormed.”

A horse that’s good to deworm will stand still with his head down, body relaxed, and ready to accept the deworming procedure, because he realizes that you’re not trying to hurt him. Here’s a step-by-step technique to deworming the right way.

Step 1: Desensitize the Airspace

Use the dewormer to desensitize the airspace around your horse’s head. If he won’t accept the dewormer in the airspace around him, then he won’t accept the dewormer in his mouth. Desensitizing works, because you’re doing the opposite of what he expects you to do — that is, he expects you to deworm him, but you won’t in this step.

Stand on your horse’s left side, so you’re out of his way if he tosses his head or strikes at you. Wave an empty deworming syringe back and forth around his entire head and muzzle, keeping it eight inches away from his muzzle.

When your horse keeps his head still, immediately stop waving, retreat, and rub his head with your other hand. Repeat this step until he keeps his head still for the entire time that you’re moving the dewormer.

“If he isn’t relaxed at this point, don’t go to the next step.” says Anderson. “Your horse must be relaxed for this to work.”

Step 2: Desensitize to the Syringe

Next, desensitize your horse to the touch of the deworming syringe.

PHOTO COURTESY OF DOWNUNDER HORSEMANSHIP

Desensitize your horse to the touch of the deworming syringe. You want him to understand that he can be touched by the dewormer without actually getting dewormed.

Starting at your horse’s withers, rub an empty deworming syringe all over his body. Work back toward his withers, and onto his neck and jaw. If he throws his head or moves away from you, continue rubbing until he stands still and relaxes, then retreat.

Rub the deworming syringe all over your horse’s face, continuing to use the approach-and-retreat method. As he becomes desensitized, gradually rub the dewormer down and around his muzzle.

“When you rub the dewormer around your horse’s nose and face, don’t rub it real slow like you’re sneaking around him hoping that he’ll stand still,” says Anderson. “Instead, rub vigorously. He’ll think, Man, you’re an idiot, you don’t even know where my mouth is.”

When your horse relaxes, and keeps his head and feet still, retreat the dewormer, and rub his head with your other hand.

“You’re trying to establish a starting point,” says Anderson. “You want him to realize that the quickest way to get rid of the dewormer is for him to stop moving his feet, and to relax his head and neck.

“When he does so, take the dewormer away from him, and rub his face with your other hand. Keep doing this until you can rub the dewormer all over him, and he doesn’t move.”

Step 3: Coat the Syringe

Repeat Step 2, then coat an empty deworming syringe with something sweet, such as honey, molasses, or sugar. This sweet coating will help teach your horse to accept the deworming syringe in his mouth — it’ll help him disassociate the bad taste of dewormer with the deworming process. (Give your horse a taste for the sweet coating by putting a little of it on his feed every night.)

Stand on your horse’s left side, and ease the dewormer into the corner of his mouth. Keep the dewormer in his mouth; if he throws his head, raise your arms. If he steps backward, move back with him.

As soon as your horse stands still, lowers his head, and relaxes, remove the syringe and rub his face with your other hand.

Patiently repeat this step until your horse stands still.

Step 4: ‘Deworm’ with Honey

‘Deworming’ your horse with honey makes him think that whatever is in a deworming syringe tastes good.

Fill the empty dewormer with honey, then wave and rub the syringe around his nose to ensure that he’s desensitized to it. Then place the honey ‘dewormer’ in the corner of his mouth, and slowly ‘deworm’ him by letting him lick the honey off the syringe.

Repeat this step over the course of several days.

Step 5: Deworm Your Horse

When your horse accepts the deworming syringe in his mouth, you can actually deworm him. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 until he shows no defensiveness towards the dewormer. Then get a real dewormer, and put a sweet coating on the outside of the syringe. Put the dewormer in the corner of his mouth, and empty the syringe. Wait for him to digest the dewormer, and immediately follow up with a honey dewormer.

“Always leave your horse with a positive taste in his mouth,” says Anderson. “If you just give the bad-tasting dewormer and walk away, the last thing he remembers is a foul taste.”

Step 6: Follow Up

Over the next three or four days, ‘deworm’ your horse with honey to remind him that deworming doesn’t have to be a horrible experience. Be sure to desensitize him by waving and rubbing the syringe around his nose before putting the honey dewormer in his mouth.

Step 7: Repeat the Process

Deworm your horse with honey once a day for four days before the next scheduled deworming. Follow up by ‘deworming’ him with honey once a day for four days after the deworming. You’ll then leave him with a positive deworming experience. In time, you should be able to just walk up, deworm your horse, and walk away.

Clinton Anderson grew up in Queensland, Australia, learning to ride as a teenager and training with many of his country’s top horsemen. In 1997, he relocated to the United States to perfect his Downunder Horsemanship program. Under Anderson’s guidance, horses learn to respect and respond to their handlers, developing willing partnerships. To learn more about Downunder Horsemanship, Clinton Anderson Walkabout Tours, and more, visit www.downunderhorsemanship.com.