Fenced paddocks with lush green grass and loafing sheds await guests' horses at SisterCreek Ranch.

Bring your horse and your sense of adventure to SisterCreek Ranch, where you can experience the splendor of nature and enjoy your horse all in one gorgeous setting. The ranch is located in the heart of the Texas Hill Country, 20 miles south of the tourist shopping mecca of Fredericksburg, nestled between Luckenbach and Sisterdale, 45 minutes north of San Antonio.

As we arrived at the gate I had to roll my window down to take a closer look. Were those zebras? And those antelope sure looked awfully exotic for south Texas.

"Honey, look!" I said to my boyfriend, Jon, who'd planned this weekend adventure. Giggling at my childlike wonder, he punched a few numbers on a pad to open the heavy iron entrance gate. We soon found ourselves in a horse lover's version of Oz.

"Jon this is beautiful!!" My joy overflowed as his "surprise destination" unfolded before me. Trees swayed in the wind, the sun glittered on the surface of the creek, birds were singing, and the lush grass was as green as I'd ever seen. My horse, Tig, began a chorale of nickers, neighs, and snorts. Apparently, he'd also noticed the grass.

A Warm Welcome
Jon navigated the Dodge down the windy road to the property's center. As we pulled alongside a beautiful barn, the ranch administrator, Trish Cayce, greeted us with a smile. She introduced herself to us and to the horses with genuine cheer. She swept Jon away as I unloaded the horses and tried to gain my composure.

Fenced paddocks, a state-of-the-art barn equipped with a misting system and iron stalls, loafing sheds, a round pen, an arena, trail access, ranch riding, cabins, pens - was I in heaven? I mentally debated how to let Jon know that we were never leaving.

There's also a charming little Western town, KickBack Flats. We got settled and headed to Sniffy's, the town's saloon-like restaurant, where the cook had been preparing the evening meal.

We met Beth and Bruce Johnson, the friendly ranch owners, who sat down to eat with us. Then we tucked into one of the best chicken potpies I'd ever eaten. I felt welcome and at ease, but I couldn't help but notice a feeling in the air, as though there was a secret that everyone knew but me.

Jon finally managed to tear me away from our new friends and shuffled me off to our spacious cabin. Did he expect me to sleep after arriving at a place like this? Finally, using a soft fire built with wood in our stone fireplace, Jon convinced me to let go of the day. But not until after I got my fill of reading the horse magazines I found on the coffee table and took a good long rock in a wooden rocking chair.

A raised center aisle (RCA) barn

Unfortunately, like other products of human design, some barns look great but do not work. Don't sacrifice your horses' comfort, health and safety for making a fashion statement. Take the axiom "form follows function" (by American architect Louis Henri Sullivan) to heart, and consider the purpose of the barn as the starting point in your design.

Floor Plan
The floor plan of a barn affects style by determining the overall shape of the building. Most barns are rectangular and single story, but L- or U-shaped layouts, some with a second floor, are not uncommon and may suit your purpose better.

Common Barn Layouts
Run-In Shed--Not a barn per se, the ubiquitous run-in shed, or loafing shed, is the simplest shelter to build, having three sides and either a single-slope roof (shed roof) or an offset gable roof. The open side allows a horse to enter and leave the shed at will. It is often one room for a single horse, but it can be made as long as desired and divided into many compartments to separate horses.

Shed Row--Put a front wall on a run-in shed and you have a shed row barn with stalls open on one side. A gable roof often replaces a shed roof in order to gain an overhang for more protection from sun and rain. The shed row is popular in warm climates where it's not critical to have inside aisles in which to work. It is not practical for areas with snow, where more protection is needed.

Back-to-Back or Racetrack--Attach two shed row barns back to back for a racetrack barn. Since the stalls share a common back wall, a racetrack barn is an economical way to house a large number of horses. Like the shed row, it is not practical for snowy areas.

Center Aisle--Two facing rows of stalls with an aisle between is the most common enclosed barn configuration. It offers complete protection from weather so horses can be fed, groomed, and tacked without having to leave the barn.

Trainer--This is like two center-aisle barns side by side and covered by a gable roof. There is a double row of stalls down the center of the barn (like a racetrack barn), an aisle on each side, and then another row of stalls along each outer wall. Often an indoor arena is attached to the end of the trainer barn.

Breezeway--Any barn with a large door at each end of the aisle, which can be opened to allow a breeze to blow through the barn.

Raised Center Aisle (RCA)--This term refers to the roof style, monitor, rather than the floor plan. It is a center aisle barn that has a raised roof over the aisle. Clerestories, short walls with windows between the roof levels, let light into the center aisle. In hot climates, the clerestories are left open for ventilation.

Mare Motel--A series of pens, usually of steel pipe panels, covered by a roof. Used in hot climates to maximize airflow and provide shade.

Roof Shape and Overhang
Roof shape determines the appearance of a barn, the volume of air inside the barn and how well the roof sheds rain and snow.

Common Roof Shapes
Shed Roof--Also called a pitched flat roof. The shed roof is all one plane and is often used for three-sided shelters or small stables. It is also commonly attached to the eaves of an existing gable roof or to the wall of a barn.

Gable and Offset Gable--Also called saltbox. The gable roof is a roof with two planes. If one side is longer than the other, it is an offset gable. It is perhaps the most popular of all roof styles. It often extends past the barn walls to provide additional shelter for horses or equipment.

Monitor--Also called raised center aisle or RCA. Lets in light to center aisle, and the added height increases airflow. The monitor is essentially two shed roofs with a gable in the middle. This is good for long rows of stalls. The area under the upper gable roof can be windows, vents or clear panels.

Bring your horse and your sense of adventure to SisterCreek Ranch, where you can experience the splendor of nature and enjoy your horse all in one gorgeous setting. The ranch is located in the heart of the Texas Hill Country, 20 miles south of the tourist shopping mecca of Fredericksburg, nestled between Luckenbach and Sisterdale, 45 minutes north of San Antonio.

As we arrived at the gate I had to roll my window down to take a closer look. Were those zebras? And those antelope sure looked awfully exotic for south Texas.

"Honey, look!" I said to my boyfriend, Jon, who'd planned this weekend adventure. Giggling at my childlike wonder, he punched a few numbers on a pad to open the heavy iron entrance gate. We soon found ourselves in a horse lover's version of Oz.

"Jon this is beautiful!!" My joy overflowed as his "surprise destination" unfolded before me. Trees swayed in the wind, the sun glittered on the surface of the creek, birds were singing, and the lush grass was as green as I'd ever seen. My horse, Tig, began a chorale of nickers, neighs, and snorts. Apparently, he'd also noticed the grass.

A Warm Welcome
Jon navigated the Dodge down the windy road to the property's center. As we pulled alongside a beautiful barn, the ranch administrator, Trish Cayce, greeted us with a smile. She introduced herself to us and to the horses with genuine cheer. She swept Jon away as I unloaded the horses and tried to gain my composure.

Fenced paddocks, a state-of-the-art barn equipped with a misting system and iron stalls, loafing sheds, a round pen, an arena, trail access, ranch riding, cabins, pens - was I in heaven? I mentally debated how to let Jon know that we were never leaving.

There's also a charming little Western town, KickBack Flats. We got settled and headed to Sniffy's, the town's saloon-like restaurant, where the cook had been preparing the evening meal.

We met Beth and Bruce Johnson, the friendly ranch owners, who sat down to eat with us. Then we tucked into one of the best chicken potpies I'd ever eaten. I felt welcome and at ease, but I couldn't help but notice a feeling in the air, as though there was a secret that everyone knew but me.

Jon finally managed to tear me away from our new friends and shuffled me off to our spacious cabin. Did he expect me to sleep after arriving at a place like this? Finally, using a soft fire built with wood in our stone fireplace, Jon convinced me to let go of the day. But not until after I got my fill of reading the horse magazines I found on the coffee table and took a good long rock in a wooden rocking chair.

]]> http://www.equisearch.com/uncategorized/trail-riding-sistercreek-ranch-sisterdale-texas/feed/ 0 http://www.equisearch.com/uncategorized/keep-your-horse-cool-heat/ http://www.equisearch.com/uncategorized/keep-your-horse-cool-heat/#comments Sat, 01 Jul 2006 01:00:00 +0000 Heidi Nyland http://www.myhorse.com/keep-your-horse-cool-heat.html Take extra care to keep your horse in the comfort zone by following these keep-cool suggestions.

Sweltering summer heat is more than just very uncomfortable for your horse. It's as much a health hazard for your horse as it is for you. Young, old or ill horses are least equipped to deal with extreme heat. But if you don't manage your healthy adult horse, he could easily get into trouble, too, with dehydration, weakness, colic, poor exercise tolerance-even heatstroke.

Here are some bare minimum measures you should take:

• Keep clean water in limitless supply available 24/7.
• Make sure plenty of shade from trees, shelters or run-in sheds is available.
• If a herd situation, observe carefully to make sure weaker, older or less-dominant horses are not being chased away from water or shade.
• If you provide free-choice salt, horses should be eating at least 2 oz./day. Weigh your blocks or bricks every two weeks to make sure. If they're not consuming this much salt on their own, start adding it to their feed. If not feeding grain regularly, make a small daily meal of soaked beet pulp or wheat bran with 2 tablespoons of salt added.

With really bad conditions, consider one of the following:

• Bring the horses in during the hottest part of the day and treat them to a hosing.
• Some horses really enjoy and will use a sprinkler system. Keep it outside your pasture/paddock fencing and set it to spray into the pasture.
• Set up large fans in your run-in area. (Make sure cords are safely out of reach of chewing, curious horses.)

Quick Cooldown

An overheated horse, either from exercise or simple heat exposure, needs aggressive cooling. It is simply not true that you can't use cold water on a hot horse. That's a myth. In fact, such cooling may prevent a life-threatening condition from developing.

Using cold water from a hose, run water over the horse's chest, the jugular grooves of his neck, and the lower legs. These areas have many superficial blood vessels that can be rapidly cooled by the water and will carry the cooled blood to the interior of the horse.

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Once the horse seems less distressed (breathing eases), progress to hosing the entire body. Continue the hosing until the water running off underneath the horse's body feels cool. This means the water is no longer picking up large amounts of heat from the surface of the skin.

The horse should then be slowly walked in a shaded area. Observe him carefully to make sure the respiratory (breathing) rate doesn't climb again or that the horse begins to sweat. If this happens, repeat the cooling process.

Offer tepid water at frequent intervals throughout this process. If the horse is very distressed at first, or breathing/panting heavily, he probably won't drink. Keep trying.

Black/brown horses and overweight horses will have the most trouble regulating their body heat. Foals and older horses may also be less heat tolerant, and horses with Cushing's disease very often have trouble regulating their body heat. Watch these high-risk groups very carefully for signs of extreme depression, weakness, drenching sweat or failure to sweat, and even panting. If these occur, go to "quick cool" (see sidebar).

With sweltering heat, if someone isn't around to observe the horses during the hottest part of the day, it may be best to confine them to the barn or a small area you know has adequate shade. Horses lowest in the pecking order should definitely be considered for special treatment.

Picnics
It's also normal for appetites to drop off during periods of extreme heat. If this happens, don't panic. Your horses will start eating again when they feel more comfortable.

Because of its high water content, grass is the ideal food. If your horse doesn't have enough grass available for it to be his main food, try tempting him with carrots, celery, apples, watermelon, squash or salad greens added to a high moisture mixture of soaked beet pulp and wheat bran.

Start with small meals if your horse isn't used to these feeds. Adding about 1 teaspoon of salt per pound of the mixture improves appeal and is a good way to get that needed salt into your horse.

Sweating
Sweating is the most important mechanism horses have for eliminating excess body heat. It's therefore important to know if your horse is sweating normally.

As a rule, dark horses (like dark clothing) hold more heat. They will sweat more easily and more profusely than light-colored horses. Overweight horses heat up faster than slimmer ones because the layer of fat is an insulator, trapping body heat. They will sweat more and at lower air temperatures and work levels.

Unfit horses usually sweat earlier, sweat more, and have more frothy, sticky sweat than fit horses doing the same level of exercise. Horses just loafing in the field or barn in hot weather will often have a light layer of sweat, just like we do when outside in the heat. You may or may not be able to see this, but you can usually feel it.

Very young foals (first week or two of life) may not regulate their body temperatures very efficiently and should be protected from extremes of heat by making sure they have adequate shelter from the sun.

Older horses, in particular horses with Cushing's disease, also often have trouble regulating their temperature. This may be seen as excessive sweating and panting or exactly the opposite, failure to sweat (anhidrosis) with panting and distress. (See "Anhidrosis" in the June issue of Perfect Horse.) Horses moved from northern areas to the deep South may also develop anhidrosis. These conditions call for aggressive and frequent cooling, including hosing and the use of fans.

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Wintertime is almost on us. Short days mean you don't have as much time to get in the saddle and ride. And, unless you live in the farthest southern climes, your horse faces cold, snow, sleet, rain, and wind. He grows a protective coat to fend off the elements, but what should you do to help keep him warm and comfortable? Here, I'll give you a rundown of winter-care strategies designed to help you maintain his body condition and energy, so when spring rolls in, he'll be ready to hit the trail again.

Year-Round Routine
You can help your horse get through winter months by maintaining his health year-round. Following is an at-a-glance maintenance schedule.

• Deworm. Deworm your horse every two months, even during winter. Your horse always carries a parasite load, so continual deworming reduces the chance of re-infection from manure or contaminated feed. Deworming also helps him to better digest his feed, reducing the risk of colic and weight loss.

• Vaccinate. Cold nights and warm days with widely varying temperatures increase your horse's susceptibility to infections. Vaccinate your horse for viral infections, such as equine influenza and rhinopneumonitis, and give him a booster every three or four months to maintain immunity.

•Check his teeth. Before winter hits, have your vet check your horse's teeth. Your vet may need to float (file) sharp points on the teeth edges; such points can cause mouth soreness. Good dental health helps your horse chew and digest his feed so he can absorb all the necessary nutrients.

Tip: A furry winter coat can hide a gaunt frame. Periodically run your fingers across your horse's midsection to make sure he's still holding flesh on his body. You want to just be able to feel the last two ribs with a light run of your hand across his rib cage.

Wintertime Feeding
Good-quality forage helps your horse stay warm in winter: As microbes in his large intestine ferment the feed, it'll create heat from within, acting kind of like an internal combustion chamber. Here are some more winter-nutrition tips.

• Estimate his normal requirements. An average adult horse needs l½ to 2 pounds of hay for each 100 pounds of body weight every day. (That's 15 to 20 pounds of hay per day for a 1,000-pound horse.) At least 50 percent of your horse's feed should be in the form of roughage (hay) rather than grains. Fiber from hay promotes your horse's gut health, reducing the chance of colic, laminitis (founder), and nutritional imbalances.

Tip: When you estimate daily hay consumption, account for any loss due to wind, spreading, and/or trampling.

•Feed for warmth. Your horse's nutritional needs increase about 5 to l0 percent for every degree below freezing. During cold snaps, provide good-quality grass hay free choice, rather than loading him up with more grain. Over time, grain can put fat on his frame (below), but otherwise does very little to keep him warm.

Tip: Protect your haystack and feed-storage areas from excess moisture to ward off mold, which can cause respiratory problems. Also protect your hay from sun scorch to preserve its vitamin A content.

•Add calories, if necessary. If your horse needs more calories to maintain his condition, supplement grass hay with a small amount of alfalfa hay and/or grain. Oats offer greater fiber content, but corn provides twice as much energy as an equal volume of oats. You can also supplement your horse's diet with vegetable oil or rice bran to add fat and calories.

• Provide fresh water. Provide your horse plenty of fresh, clean, and wet (ice?free) water at all times. If he stops drinking water, he'll be at risk for impaction colic. He also may not eat his daily feed ration. He needs at least 5 to 10 gallons of water per day in winter-more if he's exercised.

]]> http://www.equisearch.com/uncategorized/wintertime-horse-care/feed/ 0 http://www.equisearch.com/farm_ranch/management/paddock_121703/ http://www.equisearch.com/farm_ranch/management/paddock_121703/#comments Wed, 17 Dec 2003 09:47:00 +0000 admin http://www.equisearch.com/paddock_121703

A comfortable, healthy horse will remain safely turned out for longer periods of time than animals who must constantly withstand bad conditions. However, good turnout conditions require a certain amount of maintenance to yield their full advantages.

Regular mowing and draining of surface and ground water to other locations can eliminate mosquito breeding environments. Removing manure and wasted feed from paddock areas is crucial for controlling bacteria proliferation, rodents, migratory birds, flies, and insects detrimental to your horse's health. Providing clean water, access to salt, and sanitary feeding conditions further contributes to good equine health and turnout management. Finally, regular inspections of fences and immediate correction of hazardous conditions provide you and your fellow horse lovers the peace of mind necessary for enjoying the equestrian life.

The main issues related to paddock management are life support, containment, shelter, moisture and erosion control, and pest control. The internet provides access to dozens of products that can help do-it-yourself farm owners maximize their paddock use, minimize maintenance, and reduce stable workload for most of the year.

Containment
Solar fence chargers help safely contain horses in turnout areas without the problems associated with traditional electrically powered devices. They can be connected to existing electric tape or wire without involving professional contractors, and operate efficiently in most climates. The following manufacturers provide a variety of solar powered products to suit most turnout situations:

If you're a typical horse owner, you're always interested in learning more about barn design and construction. Maybe you're preparing to build your dream barn, or maybe you're thinking about buying a few acres of your own. Even if you keep your horse at the perfect boarding stable, you've surely had thoughts or dreams of keeping your horses at home. Horse Housing: How to Plan, Build and Remodel Barns and Sheds (Trafalgar Square Books), by Richard Klimesh and Cherry Hill, can help you realize those dreams.

The saddest words heard from any horse owner who's ever built a barn that wasn't quite right--or built a good barn in the wrong place--are "Dang! I wish I'd known that before I started--it's gonna cost a bundle to fix this!" This book can help you avoid barn-building regrets.

Authors Klimesh and Hill--a husband-and-wife team--need no introduction. They're horsemen's horsemen, known and respected throughout the country. But not everyone knows that Klimesh, a farrier and the co-author of Maximum Hoof Power, is also a professional carpenter who studied architectural design at Iowa State University. He and Hill--the award-winning author of many good books on horse care and training--have had extensive experience building and rebuilding barns across the country.

They've applied their experience to Horse Housing, which can help you whether you're building a new training facility, remodeling a dairy barn or machine shed, or just improving your own horse barn. It provides descriptions, instructions, practical information, and good advice in a beautifully illustrated, reader-friendly format.

Chapter after chapter, this book teaches things you might never have thought of--and explains why and how to avoid common mistakes. The combination of clear writing, clear thinking, good sense and good horsemanship makes for easy reading. Human convenience is emphasized throughout, but the bottom line is horse health, comfort, and safety. If horses could review books, they'd give this one "two hooves up."

Packed with clear photos, plans, and drawings, this book is divided into three sections. The first section discusses planning and reminds readers that laws, zoning ordinances, and covenants can limit the size, design, and placement of a barn. Also in the first section: information and advice about hiring a general contractor, dealing directly with subcontractors, doing the work yourself, and why you need to find the best possible location and orientation for your barn.

The book's second section deals with design elements. Starting with basic barn layout and features--stalls, floor plan, doors and windows--the authors go on to discuss condensation, humidity, ventilation, and insulation. Some barn owners must cope with extreme summer heat, others with extreme winter cold--and some have to deal with both. Whatever your weather conditions, the information you want is here.

Star Trek had it right. If you've ever maneuvered a large trunk through a tiny tack room door or turned a large horse around in a narrow aisle, you know that space really is the final frontier. Design elements aren't "extras," they're what we need to consider before we build.

You want stalls? How many, and what size? Should they have swing-out feeders, rubber mats, windows, Dutch doors? Where will the doors be? Should you have a feed room and a hay room? How wide should the center aisle be? Where will you groom your horses? Where will you tie them--and to what? Will you need an outdoor wash rack or an indoor wash stall? Veterinary stocks or a breeding room? How about foaling stalls and a waiting room?

One good tip: When you design your tack room, don't think small. The authors remind us that nobody ever said, "My tack room is too large." Wouldn't it be nice to have a tool room or utility room? How about a lounge? A bathroom? A dressing room? Do you want to attach an indoor arena to your barn?

If you can imagine a space, structure, or appliance, you can probably have it in your barn, but if you're wise, you'll imagine it, plan it, and figure the cost before you build.

This section also includes a chapter on barn plans--how to draw, buy, or commission them. You'll find sample plans for a loafing shed, remodeled pole building, and other barns. As described, they're designed for anywhere from one to six horses, but according to the authors, each structure can be modified to accommodate more horses.

Then there's a chapter on choosing materials--everything from flooring and walls to rubber and fasteners--and a chapter on utilities and details. (You'll need to know about electricity, heaters, coolers, and water.) There's even a troubleshooting piece called "Preventing Problems," but that's really the subject of the whole book--the more you know, the more problems you can avoid.

The third section deals with the actual building of the facility, from site preparation through the final details of construction and cleanup. The authors discuss footings, foundation, framing, sheathing, stairs, wiring, plumbing, siding, roofing, floors, doors and windows, insulation, and paneling.

The book's final chapter, "Putting it All Together," is an illustrated personal tour of Hill's own barn. At the very end, there are three appendices listing helpful building terms, recommended readings, and resources, including architects and builders.

If you buy only one book about barns and barn construction, make it this one. It's a wonderful reference text you'll want to consult again and again.

To order Horse Housing: How to Plan, Build and Remodel Barns and Sheds, visit HorseBooksEtc.com or call 1-800-952-5813.

What You See
It started out 3 weeks ago as a pea-sized lump in the center of a 3-inch-high soft swelling on the side of your horse's chest. You assumed it was a fly bite or bee sting. Then the hair covering the lump fell out, leaving a 50-cent-piece-sized bald spot. The spot was pink, raised about a quarter-inch, and very sore. (Your horse stepped away and/or pinned his ears when you touched it.) Then he started rubbing it furiously on any available surface.

In the ensuing days, the lump gradually grew to its current state-a hard, fist-sized knot. It's apparently still very itchy, because your horse rubs it incessantly, despite your efforts to keep it clean and covered with a variety of antibiotic, anti-itch, and fly-repellent creams and ointments. At times it's sealed closed. But he keeps rubbing it open, allowing a thick, greenish-yellow liquid to spill out.

What Should You Do?
1. Call your veterinarian today.

Why: Although this isn't an emergency requiring urgent care, your horse needs prompt veterinary attention. The history of this particular lesion and your horse's obsession with scratching it-despite your good care-suggest that it's the result of a toxic spider bite, such as from a brown recluse or black widow. Spider bites are a common occurrence in autumn. That's when many creatures move indoors for the winter, often resulting in horses and arachnids becoming unwitting roommates.

When tissues come into contact with spider venom, they're severely damaged and quickly die, resulting in an abscess. In this case, the abscess is a capsule of inflamed tissue clenched around a liquefying hotbed of dead, dying, and infected muscle, connective tissue, and nerve endings. The pain and itch can be intense, as evidenced by your horse's behavior.

If diagnosed earlier-and the type of spider confirmed-then quick and aggressive veterinary treatment, possibly including antivenin, can limit the tissue damage by blocking the destructive action of the venom. At the current stage, however, the venom has done its damage and is long gone. Your only option to resolve the problem with the least possible scarring will be surgical removal of all affected tissue.

2. Keep your horse from rubbing the area.

Why: Additional trauma from scratching and rubbing can enlarge the abscess by forcing its contents into adjacent tissues. Your horse's efforts to scratch the itch may also bruise and/or abrade the affected area.

How: Keep your horse in crossties under close supervision, occupy him with hand walking, or confine him in a small, tree-free paddock with electric fencing. Or, consider hauling him to your vet's hospital facility, if available, so your horse can be put in a padded recovery stall and/or sedated to keep him from rubbing until his appointment.

3. Withhold food.

Why: Your vet might opt to perform surgery under a short-acting general anesthetic, and there's less chance of complications if your horse has an empty stomach.

How: Pick up all hay and feed and/or bring your horse in from pasture. If he'll be in a stall and is prone to eating his bedding, strip it out. Make sure he has free access to fresh water at all times, so he keeps himself well hydrated.

4. Declare war on spiders.

Why: To lessen the likelihood of a repeat occurrence.

How: Clean out all undisturbed corners of the barn, loafing shed, and any other sheltered areas where your horse spends time, to find and eliminate spider nests. Then keep these areas clear to discourage spiders from setting up housekeeping. Woodpiles are favorite habitats for spiders, so if there are any in or near your horse's digs, remove them. (Wear heavy gloves, long sleeves, and long pants-and watch for angry arachnids.) Also, check hay flakes by giving them a good shake before letting him dig in.

Prognosis
Good. Thanks to a rich blood supply and the good drainage effects of gravity, this particular location should heal normally once all affected tissue has been removed. Your vet may decide to leave the wound open, rather than stitch it closed, so it can drain optimally. Despite how ugly this looks at first, the crater usually fills with healthy, pink tissue within a couple weeks, and within another week or 2, the skin grows in from the edges, leaving little or no scar.

Karen Hayes is an Idaho-based equine practitioner.

This article first appeared in the November, 2000 issue of Horse & Rider magazine.