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Tick-tock. Tick-tock. Zzzzzz.

That sound you hear is that of time passing by and of you, worn out by the daily grind and put to sleep by the notion of yet another “stay-cation” spent at home catching up on chores. Is that going to put snapshots in your scrapbook or be something the kids remember fondly for life? Not likely!

Before another year gets away with no getaway, why not rekindle life’s fun factor by going on a vacation trip based on your love for horses? There are lots of ways to make that happen and plenty of price-point options.

As proof, we rounded up details on 50 great escapes that range from across the country and around the world to just down the road a piece. Tip: Many of the vacations presented here will allow you to bring your own horse, so if that interests you, be sure to inquire about it when you find a listing that sounds like it’s up your alley.

With eight categories to pick from in this article and multiple locales named within each, you can go on 50 vicarious vacations right now. Send us a postcard from the one you pick!

Cattle Drive/Cowboy Work
Help real ranch hands drive and sort cattle, plus perform other ranch chores. Don’t forget to bring your chaps.

Appeal: If you’ve always wanted to cowboy up, here’s your chance to try your hand at traditional ranch chores—up to and including cattle drives—on veteran, well-behaved cow ponies. Tip: Inquire about seasonal opportunities; cattle drives typically take place in the spring and fall.

Offered by: McGinnis Meadows Cattle & Guest Ranch in Libby, northwest Montana. Polish your skills with Buck Brannaman-influenced horsemanship coaching, then practice cattle sorting, cutting, and ranch penning on talented horses. You can also ride trails, plus help with colt gentling in the spring.

More info: mmgranch.net; (406) 293-5000.

CALIFORNIA. Hunewill Guest Ranch, Bridgeport. Try the Big Fall Cattle Gather; the Hunewill (pronounced “honeywell”) was established in 1861 by Napoleon Bonaparte Hunewill. hunewillranch.com; (760) 932-7710.

COLORADO. Sylvan Dale Guest Ranch, Loveland. Learn about low-impact rotational grazing as you help ranch hands move and work Red Saler cows and calves. sylvandale.com; (877) 667-3999.

MISSOURI. RS Ranch Gaited Getaways, Bourbon. Ride one of the ranch’s Missouri Fox Trotters or bring your own horse to help out on a 500-acre ranch that still uses draft horses to perform heavy work. rsranchtrailrides.com; (573) 732-4590.

OHIO. Smoke Rise Ranch, Glouster. Participate in cattle drives, team penning, cutting, and guided trail rides, plus enjoy pool parties, music, and dancing deep in the Hocking Hills. smokeriseranch.com; (800) 292-1732.

TEXAS. Running-R Guest Ranch, Bandera. Play cowhand in the Texas Hill Country; the Running-R adjoins a 5,500-acre state natural area with over 40 miles of trails. rrranch.com; (830) 796-3984.

Luxury and cowboy can go together at ranches like Lajitas Golf Resort & Spa. Try your hand at cutting and ride the range, or play the 18-hole championship golf course.

Photo courtesy of Lajitas Golf Resort & Spa

Resort Luxury With Horses
Pamper yourself at a handsome facility offering multiple actives, deluxe accommodations, and fine dining.

Appeal: Vacation at a multi-purpose resort, and the non- riding members of your family will have plenty to do, such as fish, swim, play golf, go touring—or spend a relaxing after- noon at the spa. Tip: Be prepared to open your wallet; resorts, especially the most luxurious ones, can be pricey.

Offered by: Lajitas Golf Resort & Spa, Lajitas, Texas. This full-service resort’s equestrian center offers riding lessons and trail rides through the desert mountains bordering Mexico. Its extracurricular activities include 18-hole championship golf; fossil explorations and bird-watching expeditions; and historical tours of Lajitas, where Comanche Indians and Pancho Villa once roamed.

More info: lajitasgolfresort.com; (432) 424-5000.

ARIZONA. Rancho de los Caballeros, Wickenburg. Ride all week and never see the same trail twice, or try your hand at team penning; other activities include tennis, golf, and trap/ skeet shooting. sunc.com; (928) 684-5484.

CALIFORNIA. Alisal Guest Ranch, Solvang. Trail ride over 10,000 acres in the heart of Santa Barbara wine country, or play golf on a course designed in 1956 by the legendary Billy Bell, Jr. alisal.com; (805) 688-4215.

COLORADO. Devil’s Thumb Ranch, Tabernash. Explore trails on 5,000 acres of privately owned wilderness, then luxuriate at the nature-based spa and in a lavish private cabin or cozy lodge room. devilsthumbranch.com; (800) 933-4339. NEW YORK. Rocking Horse Ranch, Highland. Ride with confidence on a trail ride matched to your ability; kids will love the indoor water park—with 250-foot water slide. rhranch.com; (800) 647-2624.

NORTH CAROLINA. Pisgah View Ranch, Candler. See the Blue Ridge Mountains on horseback, mountain bike, or foot; enjoy nightly entertainment and games from horseshoes to volleyball. pisgahviewranch.net; (866) 252-8361.

WYOMING. Red Reflet Guest Ranch, Ten Sleep. Help with the working-ranch chores or ride out on the range, then retreat to a deluxe chalet with private hot tub and stocked wine cooler. red-reflet-ranch.net; (866) 766-2340.

Eventing looks like such a fun challenge that you’ve decided to try it. An exciting idea, but where to begin? It all starts with choosing the right eventing horse. If you already own an eventing horse, stay with me; my guidelines will also help you know whether he’s a good fit for the sport.

You may be drawn to eventing at least in part because its upper-level horses are among the world’s most beautiful and accomplished equine athletes. However, remind yourself that the horses who compete at Rolex and Badminton are not the type you should be riding now, even if you can afford one. Your first eventing horse doesn’t need an extended trot that will score a 10 in dressage; he doesn’t need to be able to gallop forever. He needs to be fun to ride and fun to be around, able to carry you safely and comfortably around your first few entry-level events, both in and (especially) out of the ring. Don’t worry about your competitive results at this stage, because your goal is to learn the sport.

It may well be that after 18 months or so you’ll be ready to sell your first horse to another new eventer. You’ll have had such a good experience with this horse that you’ll know what your next event horse needs to be like.

To learn more about eventing, download a FREE guide—Eventing: A Guide to the Three-Day Eventing Elements of Dressage, Cross-Country and Show Jumping.

On the ground, your first event horse must be a pleasure to work with. He crossties, stands politely for the vet and farrier, loads easily, and tacks up without problems. Any horse that is unpredictable to work around in his stall, or that kicks or rears, is totally unacceptable for you.

Under saddle, your horse needs to have reasonable aptitude for the three different sports that make eventing such a unique challenge.

Dressage: It all starts with three good gaits.

Walk: I want to see a smooth, free, swinging walk in any horse I’m considering. I don’t want to see a choppy stride or a tendency for the horse to stub his toe or look ungenerous. I want him to track up—that is, his hind foot should step ahead of the footprint of the forefoot on the same side—and I want to hear a steady, rhythmic 1-2-3-4 with no obvious irregularities.

Trot: This gait needs to be a cadenced 1-2, 1-2 that covers the ground comfortably and attractively. When you watch the horse being ridden, his knee action shouldn’t bring a sewing machine to mind. When you ride him, he should be willing to maintain the trot (that is, without breaking back to walk) in response to a minimal amount of pressure from your lower leg and heel.

Canter: You’re looking for a horse with a regular, clocklike three-beat stride—the kind my father used to call a “candy canter.” For your level of eventing, look for a horse who will hold himself in that canter: You should not need a death grip on the reins to prevent his speeding up, and you should not need stick and spurs just to keep him cantering (again, a little lower leg is OK).

In addition to three good gaits, if your horse takes both leads, steers well (turning easily in both directions), accepts the bit well, and maintains a consistent head and neck position with the front of his face just ahead of the vertical, he has the basic ingredients you need for the entry-level dressage tests.

Cross-country: Among the joys of eventing is that one of its phases takes place in the countryside, not in an enclosed ring. This is something new for the many riders who’ve never ridden outside a ring before, so it’s important to begin with a horse that’s safe and sensible in the open. If you’re trying out an event prospect for purchase, be sure to arrange to take him out for a trot and canter along trails through the woods, around open fields, across rolling terrain, and (if possible) through shallow water. He needs to accept these situations as a matter of course. In a perfect world, you will also be able to jump him over a miniature ditch and up and down a little bank—or to ask a more experienced rider to do it for you. My point is that I want the horse to already know how to do these things, so that he can help you learn to do them.

As an athlete, the horse doesn’t need to be able to achieve racehorse fitness; he does need to be able (with proper conditioning) to slow-canter twice the distance he’ll cover cross-country with a short rest in the middle. That means he should eventually be able to slow-canter 1600 meters (about a mile), walk for a few minutes, and then do the same again without being stressed.

Show jumping: At entry level, you’re more interested in riding a safe jumper than a clean jumper, so the elements you’ll look for in jumping form are the things that most affect safety over fences. When you watch him being ridden, notice whether he invariably lifts his knees when he jumps. A horse that jumps with his knees lower than his elbows is not a good prospect because this form is unsafe. Another grave fault: If he jumps with one leg up and one hanging, it’s a sign that he loses his balance off the ground, making him unsafe for anyone to ride over fences.

When you ride him over jumps, you are looking once more for regularity of pace. You want to be able to canter up to a small fence, jump it, and then canter away at the same speed. A horse that consistently falls behind your leg, or one that’s always trying to rush through the bridle, is not what you want.

If you already have a horse with which you’d like to try eventing, and if he has comfortable gaits and is a safe jumper, you’ll probably be able to get started in the sport with him. (His dressage may be a work in progress for a while; but as it improves, you’ll also experience a payback in the other phases.)

If you’re shopping for your first event horse, where should you look? A young racetrack reject is not a suitable candidate; if you’re just learning the sport, don’t take on a green horse as a project. A better prospect is the experienced older eventing horse who’s out of a job because his rider has gone off to college. He’s likely to be offered at a reasonable price because he’s no longer young. His vet bills may be higher, but he has a lot to teach.

I like Quarter Horses for entry-level eventing, and I like older warmbloods who’ve been around the block. Of course, anyone who knows me knows my personal fondness for Thoroughbreds. I don’t steer entry-level riders away from this wonderful breed, but I do suggest you look for a Thoroughbred who no longer wants to be first out of the starting gate.

This article was originally published in the May 2006 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.

There are two definitions to the word surefooted, each of which contributes to a superior riding horse. The first is confidence, not prone to errors in judgment or action. Owners of Icelandic Horses, Mountain Horses, Tennessee Walking Horses, Mangalarga Marchadors, Gaited Morgans, and Missouri Fox Trotters, among others, comment regularly on their horses’ tendency to instinctively choose the best path. The other meaning, not likely to stumble, a result of that good judgment, requires the physical ability to carry it out.

You might be surprised to know how many factors affect your gaited horse’s surefootedness and just exactly what you can do to preserve it.

By Virtue of Gait

Back when gaited horses were first being selectively bred, the advantage of a smooth ride was instantly evident. But breeders in regions with, shall we say, challenging terrain — the volcanic interior of Iceland, the rugged Appalachian Mountains, or the swamps and slopes of South America — noticed something else those extra gaits afforded.

A horse with a range of gaits negotiated hazardous footing more easily and effectively than one with limited "gears." Having an extra foot or two on the ground not only improved the gait’s smoothness, it also provided more stability. In short, horses bred for saddle gaits have the added advantage of being born to a legacy of surefootedness.

Of course, as always, where a little is good, way too much isn’t better. Lee Ziegler, the late noted gaited-horse clinician and author of Easy Gaited Horses, offered this caveat: "Avoid extremes," she warned. "Extreme overstride (running walk comes to mind) can make a horse less surefooted, extreme reach in front (long, but very low step) also can lead to stumbling."

Sadly, what often wins in the show ring can literally lead to your downfall on the trail. "A really long-strided and ‘loose hocked’ ex-Big Lick horse is going to have a lot more trouble negotiating up, and especially down, hills in rough terrain, than a more moderately endowed individual who has maybe a foot or so over stride," Ziegler explained. "Likewise, a very fast moving largo horse with tons of reach is also going to have more trouble in rough ground than a moderately slower horse with shorter stride."

Head First

For most gaited horses, anything more than rare missteps to occasional stumbling should be taken as a signal that something is wrong, physically or mentally. After all, your horse wants to keep on his feet. Falling down is one of his worst fears. In his 57-million-year evolutionary memory, hitting the ground is synonymous with being eaten.

So what does it take for your horse to be surefooted, even in treacherous terrain? Here’s a rundown.

A calm, observant mind. Your horse’s mind directs his foot placement. If he’s anxious or distracted, he’s likely to forget what’s happening at the end of his legs. A horse that fights his rider is also likely to misstep, especially a young, green horse unfamiliar with trails and other horses. But a mentally focused horse will watch his footing intently when the going gets rough, nose nearly to the ground, if necessary.

Soundness and condition. These attributes are especially important while crossing demanding terrain.

Balanced conformation. A surefooted horse has straight, sturdy legs of sufficient bone, and tough, well-shaped hooves. His soles are concave, and his frogs are fleshy and healthy. He’ll have a medium to short, strong back and a medium to slightly narrow chest to balance his load while controlling footfalls. Good bone structure is the framework over which all muscle and condition is built, and a horse can only excel within the limits of that framework.

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Good vision. Your horse’s vision guides his steps. "Good eyesight is a must," explains high-country rider and Tennessee Walking Horse breeder William J. Erickson. "A horse with vision problems can easily misjudge where he places his feet. Floaters or other eye problems can cause a horse to ignore things he should see or react to things that aren’t even there."

Best Foot Forward

The steps your horse takes are only as solid as the hooves that support him. Absorbing as much as 310,000 pounds of pressure per hoof (according to www.horseshoes.com, as measured in galloping racehorses), they’d better be as structurally sound and healthy as possible.

To improve your horse’s hoof health, apply hoof moisturizers in dry weather, feed biotin and calcium supplements, and schedule regular farrier care.

Brian Massingham is an avid trail rider and a farrier with more than 25 years’ experience shoeing all kinds of horses, including those for the United States Forest Service in the Cascade Mountains of Western Washington. He stresses the importance of regular trimming and shoeing. "Keep your horse’s hooves trimmed every six to eight weeks, and think ahead," he says. "That means if you have a trail ride planned five weeks into your trimming/shoeing schedule, have the farrier out earlier, rather than later. The longer a horse’s toes grow, the more apt they are to cause him to stumble. Long toes with low heels are a common cause of stumbling."

Trim to what’s natural for your horse, he maintains, although he notes that slightly higher heels generally enhance agility. "How much is enough and how much is too much depend on [the opinion of] an experienced farrier and the needs of your individual horse," he cautions.

Massingham also notes that long toes on the hind feet can affect overreach, which some may find desirable in the quest to manufacture gait, but that can lead to the horse striking his forelegs with his hind feet. "They can also cause a horse to drag his toes, and that can make him stumbly," he says.

Many stumbling problems are caused by improper shoeing, Massingham explains. He sometimes recommends rolling the toes or rocking them for easier breakover. And while not every horse needs shoes, he cautions that "heels wear down so much faster without shoes that most horses, especially regularly ridden gaited horses, need shoes for protection.

"It’s a red flag when a horse’s hooves land toe-to-heel," he continues. "It’s a sign the horse is hurting somewhere. And even if he’s not lame or stumbling yet, he will be. The time to get him checked out is before a slight problem becomes a big one."

Finally, have a qualified farrier evaluate any sources of foot soreness, such as an unbalanced trim job, a too-close trim, or early signs of laminitis or navicular disease. Back that up with a visit to your veterinarian. Look carefully for abscesses and stones lodged in the hoof, which are sometimes difficult to detect right away. A sore-footed horse is unlikely to remain a surefooted horse.

Stumbling Blocks

Even with proper hoof care, a myriad of sneaky little complications can erode your horse’s footwork. Conformational defects are the easiest to spot and avoid. Depending on their severity, they can cause strain on joints, tendons, and muscles, leading to weakness, injury, lameness, or just a lousy attitude, due to pain.

When shopping for a gaited horse, avoid hoof deformities, such as clubfeet, flat soles, toed-out (splayed) feet, toed-in (pigeon-toed) feet, which is even worse, or feet too small for the horse’s body.

A clubfoot, with a front slope more than 60 degrees, causes a horse to land "toe first," making him prone to bruising, injury, and even laminitis. Flat soles are also prone to bruises and don’t provide the traction concave soles do.

Splayfooted horses (think "duck-footed") tend to "wing in," flinging the hoof to the inside of each stride, sometimes banging into the opposite front leg. Such horses can literally trip over their own feet.

Pigeon-toed horses paddle, or "wing out," causing the hoof and lower legs to suffer extra, unbalanced stresses, which can lead to soreness, fatigue, and stumbling.

Undersized feet tend to become sore, due to their lack of concussion absorption, which can make a horse tender-footed.

On the other hand, white hooves don’t affect surefootedness, and mule-footed horses — those with narrow, ovoid-shaped hooves with steep hoof walls, fairly common among American gaited breeds — are often quite hardy and surefooted.

Avoid such leg defects as long pasterns, crooked legs, post legs, camped-out hind legs, and legs that are too close together. Long pasterns, common in some gaited breeds, are an invitation to breakdown, especially when the horse is ridden on steep or deep, strenuous footing.

Pasterns more than three-quarters the length of the cannon bone risk injury, arthritis, and ligament breakdown. Crooked legs sustain uneven stresses on the limb structures, which lead to fatigue and pain, serious sabotage for surefooted steps.

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Post-legged horses are quite susceptible to hock problems and can have a tough time on steep trails, as it’s difficult for them to bring their hind legs underneath themselves.

Camped-out hind legs, which set back behind the point of the buttocks when the horse is standing square, are subject to high impact in the joints, tendons, and hoof structure, plus muscle fatigue. These stresses often result in quarter cracks in the hoof, arthritis in the hocks, and sore, tired muscles. Legs set too closely together can lead to interference, when the legs bang into each other.

Other conformational problems include long loins, mutton withers, and "downhill" conformation. The loins, that part of the back between the last rib and the point of the hip, shouldn’t be more than about three fingers in width. But longer loins are commonly found in gaited horses, due to the position of the lumbar-sacral juncture affecting the spinal flexibility required to execute four-beat gaits.

While a little extra length may be good, more isn’t better. Excess length tends toward weakness, instability, and ultimately soreness, as well as overreach in the hind legs and a rough gait.

Mutton withers are low and rounded, and affect surefootedness by allowing the saddle to slide forward when riding downhill, throwing your horse off balance. Use a breeching strap or crupper to hold your saddle in place.

Likewise, a horse "built downhill," in which the croup is higher than the withers, experiences excess pressure on his withers and shoulders even on level ground, resulting in soreness, restricted movement, and altered balance.

Early Warning System

If your otherwise trail-worthy mount changes his stride or begins to slip or stumble, take that as a signal to have him checked over by both vet and farrier. Early warning signs can include a lack of enthusiasm, lack of coordination, tenderness (walking on eggshells), a slight limp, and/or stumbling.

A sore back, withers, or shoulders can appear at first as short strides or stumbles. Hoof changes, whether by injury or trimming/shoeing alterations, can affect stride. Heel or sole bruises, abscesses, or a foreign body embedded ("graveled") in the hoof will show up first as tenderness and "off" steps.

Otherwise unnoticeable early stages of lameness may show up as short strides, general reluctance, tenderness, or stumbling. Footsteps that land toe-to-heel, "ouchiness," and stumbling can signal the first stages of navicular disease or laminitis.

A loss of coordination could be the first sign of a traumatic head injury or inflammation caused by such diseases as equine protozoal myelitis (EPM), West Nile Virus, or ataxia (wobbler syndrome). Ingestion of toxic plants can bring on similar symptoms.

Your horse might have vision problems if he steps into holes, doesn’t clear obstacles, or walks into things.

Rider Error

Your horse’s feet are trimmed, and he’s the robust image of good conformation, health, and soundness. But still you wonder whether there’s more you could do to ensure surefootedness. Too often, rider error jeopardizes a horse’s safe and certain path. Here’s how to help your horse stay steady.

Check tack fit. Ill-fitting tack can lead to soreness and compromise surefootedness.

Ride with a balanced seat. Listing to one side, or leaning forward or backward, can throw off your horse’s center of gravity and keep him constantly readjusting for balance instead of watching the trail ahead.

Trust your horse’s innate sense. When the going gets tough, give your horse his head, so he has the freedom to watch for obstacles and use his head and neck for balance.

Properly condition your horse. An out-of-shape, fatigued, muscle-sore horse is likely to drag his toes, avoid raising his feet high enough to clear obstacles, stumble, and be inattentive. Gradually build up to the amount of work you ask of your horse, especially a younger mount.

Avoid overriding. Because we love our horses’ smooth, speedy gaits, it can be tempting to override them. Prolonged riding in gait can lead to soreness and accompanying sourness, and the inevitable rough ride and stumbling that follow. Excess speed for conditions can compromise even the surest of fleet feet.

Immediately dismount a sore horse. Learn to recognize signs of soreness and pain, and dismount if you spot one. Such signs include lack of enthusiasm, toe dragging, and shortened or stumbled steps.

Keep your lazy horse alert. If your horse stumbles because of laziness, periodically wake him up with a simple maneuver on the trail, such as a stop, back, or turn on the haunches. Be sure to perk him up before heading over rough trails or down steep descents. Teach him to pick up his feet by working him in an arena over cavalletti at the walk, trot, or slowly in gait.

Lee Ziegler summed it up beautifully. "If you start with a horse that is well built for the athletic challenges of trail riding, keep him shod or trimmed to his natural angle, ride him sympathetically and sensibly, you can have the best of all worlds … a great, safe, sure footed ride in the wide open spaces in a smooth comfortable gait."

 Adapted from The Gaited Horse, Fall 2005.

 The former editor of The Gaited Horse, Rhonda Hart Poe is also the author of Trail Riding, Train, Prepare, Pack Up & Hit the Trail. She trail rides extensively around Washington State.

If you’re considering heading to a horse sale for your next trail horse, you need to be prepared, know what you’re looking for, and observe with savvy.

I recently attended the Wild Deuce Working Mountain Horse Competition and Select Sale, just north of Kingman, Alberta. There, I spoke with a wide range of trail gurus — including outfitters, trainers, buyers, and sellers — on what a prospective buyer should look for at a horse sale and how to judge each horse for trail-worthiness.

Here, I’ll tell you what I found out. I’ll also give you information on this year’s sale (page 18), share one buyer’s post-sale comments and give you private-party shopping pointers.

Top Qualities

First, look for a trail horse with a level head. "The brain is No. 1; it’s ultimately a horse’s mind that will get you down the side of a mountain

safely," says Brenda Murdock, who owns Wild Deuce Retreats & Outfitting with Terri and Chuck McKinney. (For more on the facility, see "Wild Ride at Wild Deuce," April ’10.) Brenda Murdock and Terri McKinney are also the facility’s guides and outfitters.

Chuck’s cousin, Ken McKinney, a horse breeder and trainer, looks for build and conformation. "I look for a horse that’s well put together and balanced, with good muscle," he notes. "But ultimately, I look for calmness — the horse has to be willing to do what you want him to do."

Also, look for suitability for your particular needs. For instance, if you plan on spending long days in the backcountry, look for an easy keeper that will keep on weight in varied grazing conditions.

Terri looks for a kind eye, good bone structure, a strong build, and good-sized, durable feet. She also recommends a minimum age of 4, so "the brain and body are ready for the work."

Karen Anderson, a horse trainer and the sale’s announcer, suggests that you look for a thinking horse. "This will make the difference between being safe and getting hurt," she says. "Your horse has to be able to get out of a situation in a safe manner.

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Evaluation Key

At the annual Wild Deuce sale, potential buyers can arrive Friday night to start evaluating horses for Sunday’s auction. On this day, the sale horses perform a fun routine called "wild-steer packing" that involves roping a calf then putting a pack saddle on his back.

On Saturday, the sale horses navigate a 17-obstacle course in 10 minutes. Obstacles include a mock horse camp with a running chainsaw, jumping a log, backing uphill, and riding through a plastic tent that’s flapping in the wind.

Other tests include riding double, dragging a log to the mock camp, carrying a water jug, and galloping around the field while the rider sports a flapping, oversized slicker.

The Wild Deuce horses in the sale have been ridden in the mountains the previous backcountry season and tolerate just about everything.

"We try to reenact many of the situations that regularly occur in the backcountry," says Chuck. "For instance, the water-jug obstacle was inspired by how we bring water from the river to camp. An advanced horse isn’t bothered by the jug swinging between his legs."

"Watch the horses go through every one of the obstacles, observing how they react to each individual situation," suggests Terri. "This will give you a good idea of how the horses were trained."

For instance, she notes, watch for attentiveness, patience, and fine-tuning through the gate-opening element. Watch how close each horse gets to the running chainsaw and how relaxed he is as he goes by; this reveals his trust in the rider.

When backing uphill, is the horse’s head down and his mouth soft? Does he look at things, think about them, then walk on calmly, without bolting?

"Dragging the log backward up the hill is an important feature, as most horses are nervous of anything behind them in their blind spot," says Murdock. During this exercise, watch each horse’s reaction as the weight of the back cinch is sucked into his stomach.

Willingness to take on an extra passenger is important in the backcountry, in case a horse or rider becomes injured. During this exercise, watch the horse’s ears to see if he’s upset or bothered by the extra weight.

Each horse must also demonstrate trailer loading and unloading; a trustful horse will enter and back out calmly.

Once the course is complete, each owner has an additional five minutes to show off any extra skills the horse may have. For instance, Terri throws a plastic water jug over a horse’s head, allowing the rope to wrap around his neck. She then gallops past the audience holding a tarp over her head as it flaps in the wind behind her.

Insider Tips

The Wild Deuce outfitters and wranglers also offer these sale suggestions:

•Get there early. Arrive Friday so you don’t miss anything. Watch how the horses handle everything, all weekend, from morning ’til night. This will give you a good feel for the horse’s mind and attitude before making a bid for him.

•Observe the daily routines. Observe the horses at the trailers as they’re tacked up and fed. Do they stand quiet at the trailer? How do they react when other horses walk past them?

•Look at the health records. Look at each horse’s veterinary checks. (One is available for each sale horse.)

•Talk to the owners. If you’re interested in a horse, talk to his owners. Find out as much as you can about the horse’s history.

•Ride the horse. If you find a horse you like, ride him on Sunday in the warm-up arena, before the sale.

•Consider the mind. Don’t let looks get in the way of finding a good, safe trail horse. Rather, look for intelligence, which will enable the horse to get you out of a potentially dangerous situation.

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Take it from me. I have a gorgeous mare in the barn, but when I trail ride, I always choose my not-so-pretty Appaloosa gelding. I wouldn’t give him up for the world.

Safe and happy trails come from buying with savvy.

     Post Sale Comments     

The true test: How the horse does once you get him home.

Gary and Terri Donald, from Pincher Creek, British Columbia, were one of the first buyers at the Wild Deuce Working Mountain Horse Competition and Select Sale. Here are their comments several months post-purchasese

As you recall, Stella was the first horse in the sale, and we paid $2,000 for her. She was a 4-year-old buckskin Quarter Horse, standing about 15.1 hands high.

We’ve been very happy with her as an all-around mountain/pleasure-type horse. She’s an easy-keeper, and her feet are great.

We live on the side of a mountain backing on to wilderness, so we’ve been able to put a lot of [miles] on her in pretty rough terrain. She’s done very well. 

I believe the work the Deuces did with Stella has made her the bombproof reliable mount she is. The ground work the Deuces did with Stella sure paid off in terms of her
reactions to new situations.

The first day, we rode Stella in the arena. We found she takes it all in stride and doesn’t get rattled at anything. There’s a lot of commotion during roping practices, but never once did she seem concerned about all the activity.

 At the time we bought her, we’d been searching for a steady, quiet horse for friends and guests. We’ve found that Stella nicely fits that requirement.

In terms of the sale, we were really impressed. First, the presale advertising was really good — we found the horses to be represented accurately in the literature.

At the sale, being able to watch the horses go through the obstacle course, having the opportunity to ride them prior to the sale, and seeing the vet-check papers reduces the potential for unpleasant surprises after you get the animal home.

We’ve been to a lot of horse sales over the years. I’d say the Wild Deuce event ranks up there with the very best of them. It may sound like a cliché, but you really can buy with confidence at this sale.

 As the owner of CLiX Photography (www.clixphoto.com), Shawn Hamilton travels worldwide to cover equestrian events and capture images that appear in top magazines, including The Trail Rider. She lives with her husband, four children, and five horses on a farm in Ontario, Canada.