Sometimes dressage riders think it is enough to teach their horses the movements, but they don’t take into account that a young dressage horse needs more than just movements to excel in competition and move up the training scale. Respect and self-assurance are the indispensable preconditions for building a harmonious partnership.

There is no question that horses are stronger than we are. Because they are flight animals, trouble can happen in the daily handling and work as well as at the more intense atmosphere of a show. All too often we observe bad behavior: Horses pull their riders around, do not stand still while they are mounted and use the rider to scratch their itchy heads. While all this is tiresome, it more importantly shows that the horse has never learnt to respect the rider as the herd leader. This is the position in which the rider needs to be, and so respect needs to be established early on. This includes fairness, which is key to a horse’s contentment and happiness.

The harmonious partnership we aim for begins with groundwork even before we have the young dressage horse under saddle. Securing a form of general obedience from the ground allows us to work in a relaxed way with our equine partner and helps a lot when it comes to riding because the horse has learnt to trust and follow us as he would in nature, following the lead mare in a herd. In this article, we show how we establish respect from the ground and how this leads to strengthening a horse’s self-assurance, which is necessary preparation for his first shows.

Step 1: Establish Respect
There is no magic. Rather, systematic training and consequence are indispensable in gaining a horse’s respect. And it must be done in a way that lacks any force, violence and injustice. Your uppermost aim has to be to become the herd leader, because in doing that you give your horse the security he needs when being worked, thereby increasing his faith in you and in the environment in which you work. The horse learns that you are the one determining the speed and direction in which he moves.

You do this by using specific body language and repeating short voice commands. Horses are usually quick learners. After showing them something new, given the right timing and praise, you only need about three repetitions to secure the behavior you want. One general remark on the use of the voice: In nature, horses communicate soundlessly. Voice aids are still useful, but we are not allowed to completely rely on them because in stressful situations the horse will pay less attention to them than to our body language. So the latter is of greater importance.

The basic needs: Groundwork begins by teaching the horse to halt, go forward and back up. With a young, unbroken horse, we most often use the Dually Training Halter designed by Monty Roberts. It works with pressure on the nose that can be quickly applied or loosened as needed.

Attached to the halter is a heavy lead rope that lies comfortably in the hand. Gloves protect the rider’s palms in case the lead rope slips through them when the horse jumps. We prefer a length of three meters (9 feet, 9 inches) in contrast to the usual two, because we have a better chance of holding on to the horse if he tries to break away.

With some horses it is useful to additionally use a stick/dressage whip to give signals, but you must first teach him to accept the touch of it on his body without fear. If a horse is not well-behaved on the ground when you begin with him, take a whip along with you, as it can be useful whether he pulls and rushes ahead of you or wants to trundle behind.

We start with the first exercises in the security and reduced space of our round pen, but later it should be possible to do the basics in every environment. For us, it is important to establish a “relaxing zone” in the middle of the round pen, where we allow the horse to rest after an exercise. Here, he gets praised and stroked and soon knows that this is a place where he can relax.

Lead forward. Lightly pull at the rope and combine it with a voice command. I use a “kissing” noise. Usually horses understand this very quickly and soon the noise is all you need to ask them to step forward. There are several positions the leader can be in: We prefer, particularly with stallions, to have the horse’s head at shoulder height. We walk relaxed at that position while keeping a certain personal space between us. The horse is not allowed to touch us, let alone push.

If a horse tends to pull, the typical reaction is to pull back. To stop this cycle, put either the Dually halter on or attach a lead chain running from the right cheek down over the nose and into your hands. It is not about using force but about refining the signals you give. Each time the horse tries to pull forward, give a short but firm signal with the lead rope and put the end of the whip in front of his nose. Praise him when he reacts promptly.

If the horse trundles behind you, carry the whip in your left hand and point its end at the hindquarters of the horse. Usually this is already enough, and the horse will catch up with you. If not, you can slightly tap the hindquarters to get the desired effect. Repeat until the horse has learned you will not tolerate him staying too far behind you.

Halt. A much-needed basic the young horse has to learn is to react to pressure applied by the rope running over his nose. The horse should learn to give to the pressure. If we want the horse to halt, we give a short impulse with the rope and combine it with a short but clear voice command. I use “whoa.” As soon as the horse reacts to this combined command, the pressure applied by the halter has to stop and he has to be praised accordingly. Some horses—in particular, sensitive, “electric” ones—understand the signals promptly, and you soon can give very fine impulses. Others will only react to your voice command. But some more phlegmatic types don’t react immediately to the impulse given by the rope over the nose, and you have to give several small but firm impulses in succession. If he continues to ignore me, I increase the impulse by putting the end of a whip in front of his nose.

Go backward. Once the horse learns to halt obediently and reliably, start teaching him to go backward. For that you need a rail on one side of the horse so he cannot evade you. Stand in front of him and take the rope with your left hand about where the snap attaches to the halter. The shorter the rope is held, the more directly the impulses are transferred to the horse’s nose.

With your right hand, hold the rope in a loop. The horse already knows that the pressure on the nose means to yield. It is important that the impulses you give via the rope are short but repetitive. If the horse does not react, use the end of a whip or bamboo stick to apply short taps on the shoulder. Eventually, it should be sufficient to give slight impulses on the nose for the horse to walk backward in a quiet rhythm.

Directly after the last step backward, you must establish the forward impulse in your horse again and ask him to step forward. With some horses, you may need to pause and relax for a moment at the end of the rein-back, but the horse must always be willing to step forward out of the rein-back at any time.

Step 2: Increase Self-Assurance with Long Reins
Once the young horse becomes familiar with the voice commands to go forward and he can halt, we begin longeing him in a round pen. We start with a single longe line, then add a second line so he gets used to them running behind his hindquarters. This is good and necessary preparation for the work in long reins.

Cautionary note: Find someone to help you. Remember that we have a lot of experience longeing and using long reins, and you need to be experienced too if you are going to try it.

Longeing and long-rein work releases the horse from the immediate proximity of his herd leader and asks him to discover his environment almost on his own. Going out in long reins develops and strengthens a young horse’s self-assurance and consolidates his faith in his rider, who now walks behind him. With more advanced horses, this work is a way of keeping them entertained between training sessions in the dressage arena.

What you need: We use a snaffle bridle with an egg-butt or full-cheek snaffle bit in combination with a flash noseband. The cheekpieces and noseband help keep the bit quiet and straight in the horse’s mouth.

We prefer soft, round long lines to flat, webbed ones. We attach them to the bit rings and always wear gloves.

We use the same voice commands we’ve been using. In general, the long reins replace the rider’s calves and together with the voice commands take care that the horse moves in the direction and speed we intend to go.

We don’t use a surcingle when long-reining so the reins can have more freedom of movement. We can touch the horses where we need to and can work them in a more sensitive way than when the reins are fixed on a surcingle.

First exercises. The first time we use long lines on young horses, we stay in our longeing circle or round pen, but you can also use a normal arena or indoor. We use all the commands the horse already knows from his weeks of groundwork.

Day by day, we explore the yard a bit more. For example, we might go to a nearby field or to the edge of the forest. If you observe that the horse is more and more comfortable in his new position ahead of you, show him some new tasks to deal with, such as walking into puddles or over logs, walking, trotting or even jumping over poles on the ground. Never forget to promptly praise him after he has mastered a new task.

The more faith he develops in you and himself, the more you can look for new challenges. We may ask our youngsters to pass by a grazing herd or work in long reins next to others. Or we might ask them to go through the creek running through our property. After extensive rainfall, we sometimes have a kind of lake in our courtyard, and we like to ask the horses to walk and trot in there to get used to water splashing their legs and belly. Be sure to do everything slowly, never asking for a second step before the first one. Then your horse will develop positive self-assurance, helping him to deal with the same things more easily when being ridden.

Step 3: Desensitization—Prepare Your Horse for the Unknown
Sometimes there are dressage riders who think that working their horses in a focused manner is only possible by excluding them as much as possible from any outside influences. A horse might be oversensitive for whatever reason and so needs to be worked in quieter surroundings in the beginning. But, in general, we are strong believers that it is no good hiding horses behind the walls of an indoor arena with the atmosphere of a monastery. Dressage horses are destined to be competed at shows and there they will find a whole lot of stimulation and noises that could easily distract them if they have not already seen and heard as much as possible at home. This is particularly necessary for stallions.

So part of our dressage training at home is to desensitize the horses to a lot of different noises and visual impressions that could come at them when it counts the most—at the showgrounds. Of course, we will never be able to simulate the special atmosphere at a show, in particular the ones held in a big stadium. And we will never know for sure what we will find there. But the more we show the horses, the more we know how they might react, and that gives us, the riders, the chance for prompt reactions. For example, we accustom stallions to working in the presence of mares step by step.

Cautionary note: Get help to do this, and remember that beforehand the horse needs to have learned respect for and faith in his rider.

The easiest form of desensitization is to keep horses outside as much as possible where they can see and hear a lot more than they do just standing in stalls. It helps to include regular trail rides in your training program so that your horse is not panicking if a bird flies out from a bush. Training outside in all types of weather helps horses when they have to compete in rain or worse.

The most decisive factor is that you have a firm impact on your horse if he spooks. “Firm” doesn’t mean to bore spurs into his flanks and holler loudly for him to pass the frightening object. Such a reaction, often seen, only strengthens the horse’s flight instinct and lets the “monsters” appear even more dreadful. Horses think in pictures and next time will associate the monster with the pain of the spurs or whip. Instead, when your horse meets a frightening object, react in the following way:

• Take the reins a bit shorter and halt in front of it. Allow your horse time to look or sniff at it quietly while you talk calmly and pat or stroke him. This also calms you down as the spook of your horse usually also makes your heart beat faster.

• Then pass the object a few times on each lead in walk, preferably in the shoulder-fore position.

• Now divert your horse’s attention from the object that frightened him by starting to trot and going on with focused work. Very effective, for example, is riding lots of different transitions so that the horse soon puts his thoughts in another direction and forgets about the fear.

Often it is typical objects like flags rattling in the wind, umbrellas being opened, running and barkings dogs, loudly clapping crowds or music that frighten young, inexperienced dressage horses at shows. Luckily, these are things that can quite easily include in desensitization training at home. All you need are some helping hands confronting the horse while you sit in the saddle. The advantage is that, in this case, you are aware of the fact that your horse might spook, jump sideways or show a little rear as a first reaction. Go slowly, step by step.

Don’t confront your horse with more than one frightening object in a lesson. Switch to another one the next time. Then, on another day, go back to the first object to confirm the horse’s positive reaction. If he ignores the once-disturbing object, great, but try once more on another day until there’s no significant reaction to it anymore.

There are horses that have to repeat this training several times over a longer period and only a very few never become bombproofed. The decisive factor is that you and your horse have built faith in and respect for each other. Then the horse will not bolt away panic-stricken.

Desensitization is just a way to strengthen this respect and faith and see if it is already strong enough or has to be deepened even more. When your horse is familiar with several different objects and doesn’t panic or spook at them, you can try an obstacle parcours, or obstacle course, including several of the objects following one another. You can ride this parcours or lead the horse, however, the motto has to be “make it more difficult.” This kind of overstimulation will harden your horse and done step by step, it will help enormously at a show.

It is also useful to take the horse to a show just to work in that atmosphere. There, you can see how he reacts to different objects and determine whether he still needs training at home or if you can start him with a quiet conscience.

Knowing that the young horse’s future is destined to be in the dressage arena, we set a good foundation from the ground. This kind of work helps you and your horse master the first starts outside the secure surroundings of your home turf. The horse knows that whatever comes his way does not have to be frightening because you, as his herd leader, are at his side.

Stefan Schneider and Uta Gräf are headquartered at Gut Rothenkircher Hof in Germany. Schneider, a veterinarian specializing in equine dentistry, has competed in jumping, reining and working equitation at the highest levels. Gräf is one of Germany’s most successful competitive and classical dressage riders. Both are well known for combining top sport with natural horsekeeping. At home, Schneider works the horses from the ground while Gräf does the riding. Gräf’s DVD series, “Joy of Dressage,” comes out in English in April 2013. Schneider has co-authored the book Stallions Care and Management. Look for reviews of both in future issues (gutrothenkircherhof.de).

Horses come in many shapes and sizes, and while all can benefit from basic dressage training, not all are physically capable of performing at the higher levels. One of the factors that can limit performance potential is conformation—the geometry of the skeletal framework in terms of the lengths and angulations of the bones and joints.

Ideally, the pelvis of a dressage horse should be long to give a large area for attachment of the propulsive muscles, and it should have a moderate slope to facilitate tilting the pelvis, lowering the haunches and moving the hind legs forward under the horse’s body.

Given the relationship between form (conformation) and function (performance), it is definitely helpful for the dressage rider to develop an eye for conformational features that affect a horse’s potential for dressage. The purpose of this article is to describe key features of the anatomy and conformation of the hindquarters with the goal of helping readers to evaluate important conformational features in this area.

Figure 1: Difference in shape of the sacrum. The bones are positioned so that the head of the horse would be to the right and the tail to the left. The sacral spines are labeled S1 to S5 and the green line shows the croup angle. These specimens illustrate how the size and shape of the bones vary between horses. In the top sacrum, the first sacral spine (S1) is short and poorly developed and the croup angle is 24 degrees. In the bottom sacrum, there is a more marked difference in length between the second (S2) and last (S5) spines and the individual spines have more of a backward slope. The croup angle is 30 degrees. These are examples of the diversity seen among normal horses.

Identifying Conformation
One of the secrets to being a good evaluator of conformation is to develop the skill to see beyond the outer layers of skin, fat and muscle in order to visualize the lengths and angles of the bones that lie beneath. Visualization of the bone structure is easier in some parts of the body than others. For example, below the elbows and stifles it is easy to see the outlines of the bones and to assess their conformation. In the shoulder and hip regions, however, the bones are concealed beneath the large, powerful muscles that attach the limbs to the trunk, making the bone structure more difficult to evaluate.

With that in mind, let us focus on the horse’s hindquarters and the differences between the shape of the croup versus the dimensions of the pelvis. The external contours of the croup are easy to see, but they give little information about the underlying pelvic structure, which is more relevant in our conformational evaluation.

Let’s start by taking a look at the bones that underpin the structure of the hindquarters: the sacrum and the pelvis (see Figure 3). The sacrum is part of the vertebral column located between the lumbar region and the tail. Although there are five sacral vertebrae, they are fused together into a single bone, the sacrum, which means that there cannot be any movement between them. The joint between the front of the sacrum and the last lumbar vertebra—the lumbosacral joint—is quite mobile. Its movements can tilt the sacrum and pelvis forward (flexion or rounding), flatten the croup (extension or hollowing) or turn the haunches to the side (bending).

Figure 1 shows the anatomy of the sacrum from the side view. The underside is formed by the fused bodies of the five sacral vertebrae with their five spinous processes protruding upward. The spines on the sacrum get shorter from front to back. The tips of these spines form the topline in the middle of the horse’s croup.

Figure 2: Horse pelvis articulated with the lumbar vertebrae. The horse’s head would be to the right and the tail to the left. The three bony prominences have been labeled: point of croup, point of hip and point of buttock (see Figure 3, p. 52). The acetabulum is also labeled; it forms the articulation of the hip joint. A lower position of the acetabulum favors the ability to perform highly collected movements.

The orientation (slope) of the sacrum varies with the horse’s posture. Horses with good strength and tone in their core musculature hold the lumbosacral joint in a slightly flexed position and keep the croup slightly tucked. Loss of tone in the core musculature may be reflected in poor posture even to the extent that the pelvis slopes upward toward the tail head.

As you can see in Figure 1, the amount of shortening of the sacral spines varies between horses, and this also affects how much the croup slopes downward toward the tail head. Note that in the live horse, the gluteal muscles may bulge on either side of the sacral spines giving a rounded profile, so it is important to assess the slope of the croup (sacrum) on the midline between the gluteal muscles.

Immediately behind the sacrum are the vertebrae of the tail. The length and angulation of the sacrum affect the position and carriage of the tail. A flat (horizontal) croup is associated with a high tail set and a high tail carriage as shown by the Arabian in the top photo in Figure 5. A sloping croup gives a lower tail set and a lower tail carriage as shown by the Friesian in the top photo in Figure 6.

Figure 3: The position of the sacrum and pelvis relative to the contours of the hindquarters. The three prominences on the pelvis are marked by red circles: 1. point of croup; 2. point of hip; 3. point of buttock. The red line running from the point of hip to point of buttock indicates the slope of the pelvis. The green line indicates the slope of the croup. In this diagram the two slopes are approximately the same. This horse has a rather flat (horizontal) croup and pelvic angles, and the acetabulum is placed relatively high.

Courtesy Hilary Clayton

The pelvis connects the bones of the hind limb to the vertebral column via the hip joint and the sacroiliac joint. When seen from behind, the pelvis is somewhat U-shaped with a narrow separation in front where it curves around and above the sacrum (see Figure 2). The union between pelvis and sacrum at the left and right sacroiliac joints suspends the sacrum beneath the pelvis and anchors it in place with strong ligaments. The sacroiliac joints, which are located on either side between the high points of the croup, do not allow a significant amount of movement; their function is to transmit propulsive forces generated by the hind limbs.

The hip joints are on either side of the lower part of the pelvis, where the acetabulum forms a rounded socket that receives the head of the femur. The hip is a highly mobile joint that allows the entire hind limb to swing back and forth and to move sideways in abduction (swinging outward) and adduction (swinging inward). A low-set hip joint facilitates compression of the hip angle and is advantageous for allowing the horse to perform highly collected movements.

Figure 4: The Warmblood. The warmblood is often considered the standard for ideal dressage conformation. The photo below illustrates how the hindquarters of successful dressage horses often have pelvises that tend toward the longer end of the spectrum and have a moderate slope.

Photo by Arnd Bronkhorst

Pelvic Length & Angulation
The pelvis is surrounded by the large muscles of the hindquarters, making it difficult to distinguish the contours. But, fortunately, there are three bony prominences on each side that are easy to see and feel and that we can use as landmarks to assess pelvic conformation. These are the point of the hip (tuber coxae), the point of the buttock (tuber ischii) and the point of the croup (tuber sacrale). Pelvic length and slope are measured by drawing a line from the upper part of the point of the hip to the point of the buttock, which is a few inches below the tail head (Figures 2 and 3).

Both the length and angulation of the pelvis are key conformational measurements that affect the horse’s strength, power, speed and agility. A larger (longer and broader) pelvis has more room for attachment of the powerful gluteal and hamstring muscles that provide propulsion during locomotion.

Figure 5: The Arabian. These two Arabians are of very different types. The top horse is a successful halter horse and is posed with the hind limbs camped out and the lumbosacral joint extended to make the croup appear as flat as possible. In this horse the croup angle is horizontal and the pelvic angle is 10 degrees. The high tail set and high tail carriage are also exaggerated in this pose. If this horse were not standing camped out, both the croup and pelvic angles would be a little more sloped. Neither the excessively flat croup nor the tendency to stand and move with the lumbosacral joint extended are desirable characteristics in a dressage horse. The lower photo is of a successful Arabian Grand Prix competitor. The angles of the croup and pelvis are parallel and measure 20 degrees. Perhaps unusually for an Arabian, this horse has a good ability to tilt the pelvis forward and engage the hind limb.

Top photo by Arnd Bronkhorst, Bottom photo courtesy Hilary Clayton

Horses that race over short to middle distances, such as racing Quarter Horses and Thoroughbreds, have the longest pelvises, measuring up to one third of the total body length. A short pelvis offers less area for attachment of the propulsive muscles, but this is compensated by greater agility. Dressage horses have pelvises that tend toward the longer end of the spectrum, though not as long as racehorses.

The angle of the pelvis is measured relative to the horizontal with the horse standing square. Using these landmarks, an average angle for a dressage horse’s pelvis would be around 20 degrees. In his doctoral research, Swedish equine biomechanics expert Dr. Mikael Holmström found that the average pelvic angle in elite Swedish Warmblood dressage horses was 30 degrees. However, it should be noted that Dr. Holmström measured pelvic angle from the upper part of the point of hip to the hip joint.

These landmarks will always give a steeper pelvic angle than if it had been measured from the point of the hip to the point of the buttock. It’s not a matter of one method being right or wrong; it’s just two slightly different measurement techniques. However, you need to know which landmarks were used in order to evaluate and compare the results.

When the lumbosacral joint is flexed, the rear part of the pelvis tilts forward, bringing the hip joint and hind leg farther forward under the horse’s body. Equine conformation analysis expert Dr. Deb Bennett refers to this as “coiling the loins,” which helps us to visualize the effect. With the pelvis tilted forward, the frame is compressed and the hind limbs act closer to the center of gravity, providing more upward (rather than forward) propulsion. A significant amount of pelvic tilting (and untilting) occurs during each stride of canter when the lumbosacral joint flexes as the hind limbs are pulled forward and extends as they are retracted.

In piaffe and canter pirouettes, the horse can maintain lumbosacral flexion and keep the pelvis tilted forward throughout the stride because in these movements the hind limbs are not retracted. In horses with a flat pelvic conformation, the sublumbar muscles that are responsible for lumbosacral flexion exert less leverage than in horses with a more sloping pelvic conformation. Thus, it requires greater force to flex the lumbosacral joint with a flatter pelvic angle, and lumbosacral flexion compresses the hip downward, rather than tilting it forward. On the other hand, an overly steep pelvis may restrict the rearward swing of the hind limb and interfere with the ability to extend the stride. As with many conformational variables, extreme pelvic angulations in either direction are not ideal; and an intermediate angle is preferred.

Figure 6: The Friesian. Friesians were originally bred for use in warfare and agriculture. The breed is still popular as a light carriage horse, and the top Friesian photo is an example of the Baroque type used for driving. Note the steeply sloped croup and pelvis (both 20 degrees) and the consequent low-set tail. The Friesian sport-horse bloodlines, as illustrated by the horse in the bottom photo, are becoming increasingly popular for dressage. This Friesian sport horse has greater length and less slope in the hindquarters compared with the horse above.

Photos by Arnd Bronkhorst

In recent years, selective breeding for specific performance criteria has produced horses that excel in dressage, though these superstars are out of the reach of most riders. It is possible, however, to find horses of a variety of breeds that have conformation favorable for dressage. The key is to learn how to distinguish between horses that have the physical attributes needed for dressage versus those that are better suited to another occupation.

The breed photographs in this article compare the conformation of the croup and pelvis of an outstanding warmblood dressage competitor (Figure 4) with two representatives each of the Arabian and Friesian breeds to show the diversity of croup conformation within these breeds (Figures 5 and 6). The photos show that there are horses in each of these nonwarmblood breeds that have suitable conformation to become good dressage performers.

Kent Farrington and Blue Angel

Sportfot

The Stars Team, composed of Reed Kessler, Kent Farrington, Charlie Jayne and Christine McCrea, has been chosen as the "point team" for the United States. Kessler (Lexington, Ky.) and Farrington (Wellington, Fla.) were teammates on the winning U.S. team in Wellington and look to secure their second Nations Cup victory of 2013. Kessler, who recently placed 10th in her first Rolex/FEI World Cup Final, will ride her second place finisher at the 2013 $200,000 Gene Mische American Invitational presented by G&C Farm, Mika. Farrington brings Robin Parsky's Blue Angel into Nations Cup competition; the pair won the $150,000 CSIO4* Grand Prix presented by Wellington Equestrian Realty in March as well as last week's $33,000 ATB Financial Cup at Spruce Meadows.

Jayne (Elgin, Ill.) will ride Alex Jayne and Maura Thatcher's Chill R Z on the Stars Team. The reserve combination for the U.S. Team at the 2012 Olympic Games recently traveled to Gothenburg, Sweden and earned a top 20 finish at the Rolex/FEI World Cup Final. McCrea (East Windsor, Conn.) brings her $25,000 Grand Prix of North Salem winner, Candy Tribble and Windsor Show Stables' Zerly, to Spruce Meadows' Nation Cup competition. The pair spent the winter jumping at the FTI Consulting Winter Equestrian Festival where they won the $125,000 Ruby et Violette WEF Challenge Cup.

Brianne Goutal and Nice de Prissey

Sean McMillen Photography

The U.S. will also be represented by a Stripes Team composed of Brianne Goutal, Katie Dinan, Candice King and McLain Ward. Goutal (New York, N.Y.), who won many of the most prestigious equitation titles during her junior years, will ride Remarkable

Farms LP's talented Nice de Prissey in Nations Cup competition. The pair began their 2013 campaign with a third place finish in the $50,000 Wellington Equestrian Realty Grand Prix at the FTI Consulting Winter Equestrian Festival. Riding in her first North American Nations Cup, Dinan (Wellington, Fla.) brings her veteran partner Grant Road Partners LLC's Nougat Du Vallet into competition on Thursday. The pair won the $100,000 Empire State Grand Prix presented by the Kincade Group at the Old Salem Spring Horse Show following a successful debut at the Rolex/FEI World Cup Final.

King (Wellington, Fla.) will represent the U.S. on the Stripes Team with Stateside Farm LLC's Campbell VDL. The pair closed out the month of May with a fourth place effort in the $50,000 EMO Grand Prix presented by Zoetis. Rounding out the team is Ward (Brewster, N.Y.) and his 2013 $200,000 Gene Mische American Invitational presented by G&C Farm and Wells Fargo Grand Prix of Devon winner, Sagamore Farms' Rothchild.

To learn more about the horse-and-rider combinations on both U.S. Teams click here.

The $100,000 Furusiyya FEI Nations Cup gets underway at 12pm MT.

Live coverage of competition can be found on FEITV.org.

To learn more about the CSIO5* Spruce Meadows 'Continental' Tournament visit; http://www.sprucemeadows.com/tournaments/view_tournament.jsp?id=25

Follow the 2013 U.S. Jumping Team here.

You can wear your helmet in the sun, but store it away from hot places, such as your car trunk.

Photo by Heidi Melocco

1. Keep Your Helmet Cool
After you ride, do you keep your helmet in your vehicle’s trunk or in your trailer’s tack room? It’s great to keep your helmet handy, but note that helmets aren’t made to be stored in the heat.

Don’t ever throw your helmet in a car trunk, where temps can reach more than 160 degrees Fahrenheit—too intense for helmet materials. That heat can cause the helmet’s structures to break down, compromising its protection capabilities in case you fall off your horse.

To preserve your helmet’s integrity, keep it out of the sun when it’s not in use, and store it in a tote or carrying bag where the fabric can wick moisture from the helmet and keep it dry.

For more tips on how to care for your helmet, check out Troxel’s safety site: www.troxelhelmets.com/safety.

2. Be Sunscreen Smart
Coppertone’s MyUVAlert app from Apple reminds you when it’s time to reapply sunscreen and delivers the latest ultraviolet index for your location. Keep in mind that UV rays can be strong enough to burn even if it’s cloudy or when you’re in a dense forest.

The free app also charts your local weather and provides links to a radar map.

Look for a nongreasy sunscreen designed for sports, and buy a new bottle each year — expired lotions won’t defend you as well against the elements.

3. Ride in Moonlight
If summer heat and humidity limits your riding time, consider planning a moonlit ride with your trail buddies. Slap on the bug repellent, and head out on moonstruck trails.

First, make a safety plan. Plan your ride close to the summer’s full moons; in 2013, the full moon will occur on June 23, July 22, August 20, and September 19.

Travel a familiar trail, and plan your route ahead of time. Know what local critters you might run into, and plan accordingly.

Tell someone where your riding group is headed and when you expect to be back. Wear reflective riding gear (especially if you must cross roads), and take a flashlight

—   Amy Matthews, Montgomery, Alabama

4. Carry Water
This collapsible water bottle is easy to stash in your saddlebag—and it’ll stand up in your truck’s cup holders without clumsily flopping to the floor. The “anti-bottle” by Vapur (www.vapur.us) is BPA-free, stands up or clips onto your saddle’s D-rings when full, then rolls up for easy storage in your saddlebags when empty.

When you get home, wash the bottle in your dishwasher’s top rack. Prepare for your next ride by filling the bottle and placing it in the freezer. You’ll have cold water all day on the trail.

5. Buy Helmet-Friendly Sunglasses
On a recent trail ride, my helmet tapped a tree branch, and although the pressure wasn’t intense, I felt a slam against the bridge of my nose. I can only imagine what could’ve happened if I’d hit my head harder or, worse, suffered a fall.

Make sure your glasses will fit well under your helmet with room to spare. Shown is a model from Revo’s Cut Bank (www.revo.com).

Photo by Heidi Melocco

The solution? Make sure your glasses will fit well under your helmet with room to spare. When shopping for glasses, take your helmet with you. Look for sunglasses designed with a slim, sporty look. I’ve found that designs without a frame at the top work best.

Also, look for lenses made from a shatterproof polycarbonate material, and padding over the nose that’s soft, cushioned, and well-attached.

6. Brush out Burrs
Summer trails are full of dry burrs and thistles. Spray on a mane-and-tail conditioner before your ride, and brush your horse after every ride. One brush perfect for his mane and tail is the Knot Genie (www.knotgenie.com). This brush, designed for people, resembles a currycomb; its ergonomic shape fits inside the palm of your hand. Its teeth easily work through long hair, due to varying bristle heights.

The teeth are all rather short, so anchor your free hand on the opposite side of your horse’s mane as you brushed, to work through knots. A Teeny Genie is available for young riders.

7. Downsize Your Wallet
You don’t want to tote your chunky wallet with you on long summer rides. But it isn’t always safe to keep your wallet hidden in your truck at a trailhead or campsite. Before you leave for your next trail-riding trip, take a moment to downsize your wallet. Only keep originals of your crucial credit cards, plus your driver’s license, and pack them in a smaller wallet that will fit in your saddlebag or a zippered pocket.

As you arm yourself with fly-fighting power, you can stay eco-friendly, thanks to an array of products available. Here, we give you seven green ways to battle flies.

#1 Fly Parasites
What they are: Fly parasites attack the developing stages of flies, so that adult flies never hatch. According to Tom Spalding of Spalding Laboratories, “The idea is to increase the ratio of good bugs to bad flies to eradicate the unwanted.” These tiny insects are completely harmless to humans and animals. In fact, you likely won’t even know they’re there.

What makes them effective: Fly parasites act on the immature fly stages, eliminating them before they become viable, reproducing adults.

How to use them: The insects will arrive on a preplanned and preset schedule, so you can achieve and maintain a consistent level of beneficial pests. You’ll sprinkle them in potential fly-breeding areas.

Insider tip: “Start just before the beginning of fly season, when daytime temperatures reach the high 60s,” says Spalding. This way, flies can be eliminated before a large population of adults gets established. (Keep this approach in mind for next spring.)

Sample products: Arbico Organics Fly Eliminators; Spalding Laboratories Fly Predators; The Source Ecological Fly Control FlyRaptors.

#2 Baits/Odor Treatments
What they are: Baits produce an odor that attracts flies to a lethal pesticide. “The odor can be described as meal or mate, depending on whether the attractant is sugar-based or pheromone-based,” explains Tony Schultz of Starbar Products. Although chemicals are used, you won’t apply them directly to your horse. Odor treatments, which are nontoxic, repel flies from the stall area.

What makes them effective: Adult fly populations are reduced in the area where your horse lives without harming the environment.

How to use them: Scatter bait (or use bait trays) around your horse property, but don’t place them inside your barn or close to horses, as they attract flies. Scatter odor treatments, such as BugBand pellets, in your horse’s clean stall.

Insider tip: “With baits, it’s all about location, location, location,” Schultz says. “Place them in areas to draw flies away from your horses or barn.”

Sample products: BugBand Spreadable Geraniol; Bayer Animal Health’s QuickBayt Fly Bait, available from Valley Vet Supply; Starbar QuikStrike Scatter; Starbar Golden Malrin.

#3 Ultraviolet Devices/Fly Traps
What they are: Ultraviolet devices (commonly known as bug zappers) lure flies with light, then electrocute them with an electrical grid. These are most effective when it’s darker out, so use them from dusk to dawn. Fly traps come in sticky and odor versions. Sticky traps generally attract flies using color (yellow, orange, or red) or shape (curved or flat surfaces with sturdy edges), then trap the flies with a sticky substance. Odor traps lure flies by using a pheromone and/or a food source. Once inside the trap, the flies can’t escape.

What makes them effective: You can eliminate literally thousands of flies with one bug zapper or trap, effectively making a huge dent in the adult fly population. Many of these devices also can be reused, which makes them a great green option. “They’re safe for animals and humans alike, as long as you follow the manufacturers’ instructions,” notes Schultz. However, don’t place these devices in or near your barn, your house, or any food or water sources, as they’ll attract flies to these areas.

Insider tip: Identify the flies you’re fighting, use the right kind of trap for these flies, and place the traps in the most effective locations for these flies.

Sample products: Biconet’s Revenge fly-control products; Starbar’s fly-control traps and products; Sterling International, Inc.’s Rescue Fly Traps.

#4 Stall Barriers and Fans
What they are: Stall barriers create a shady, cool area inside your horse’s stall or shed. They work because flies are attracted to sunny, warm areas. Stall fans direct airflow downward and outward, creating a breeze that flies don’t like. Plus, fans can literally blow small flying pests away from your horse’s environment.

What makes them effective: These methods work because they’re simple. They don’t rely on gimmicks, and they’re totally green. They create inhospitable surroundings for flies. As a bonus, they create a cool, breezy environment that enhances your horse’s comfort.

How to use them: Hang stall barriers at all barn doorways and over any windows that don’t have screens. They need to be long enough to keep low-flying flies out, but they don’t necessarily need to be floor length, depending on what types of flies are most common in your area. The perfect stall barrier is made of mesh, so it doesn’t impede airflow.

Install fans high to blow downward and outward. Use a gentle setting, so you don’t stir up dust and other particles that could harm your horse’s lungs. A simple box fan from a big-box store will work just fine.

Insider tip: Don’t worry that your horse will be intimidated by these methods. While it may take a while for him to get used to the barriers, he’ll quickly figure out that the fly-free zone exists beyond the barriers. He’ll be zooming in and out in no time.

Sample products: Horse Fly Net’s stall barriers; SmartPak Equine’s fan holders.

#5 Eco-Friendly Topicals
What they are: Chemical-free topical fly repellents you’ll apply to your horse’s skin and/or haircoat.

What makes them effective: The active ingredients in most eco-friendly topicals are fly-repelling essential oils or botanicals.

How to use them: Apply fly sprays and wipes to your horse’s body and legs. Roll-ons and wipes are great for areas where application can be tricky, such as around his ears and eyes, on his face, and even inside his ears. One important caution comes from Martha Lefebvre of Farnam Horse: “Think safety first. Always read the labels on fly sprays, and apply them according to recommended practices. If the label recommends a spray pattern or coverage amount, follow those directions for maximum efficacy.”

Insider tip: Because green topicals are made of all-natural ingredients, their repellent properties tend to not last as long as chemical-based products, so be sure to reapply them often for maximum protection.

Sample products: Absorbine’s Ultrashield and Supershield Green fly repellent; Bugband sprays and towelettes; Farnam’s Equisect and Nature’s Defense; Equine America’s Natural Horse Spray; EquiLite’s Ricochet wipes and spray; Zephyr’s Garden Pure & Simple Fly Spray.

#6 Fly Mask
What it is: Flywear made from mesh that covers your horse’s face. (Ear coverings are optional.) All types of flywear are green, as they contain no chemicals. Plus, you can use an old fly mask to scrub buckets, barrels, and troughs.

What makes it effective: A fly mask not only keeps out flies and other pests, but also protects your horse’s eyes, eyelids, and nose from the sun.

How to use it: Flies like the heat, so in hot, sunny weather, apply the mask from sunup to sundown. That’s a long wear time, so make sure your horse can eat, graze, drink, lay down, sleep, roll, and even frolic with friends while wearing the mask.

Insider tips: Watch for rub spots on the head or contact abrasions with the surface of the eye. Also, eliminate anything in your horse’s environment that might catch on the mask.

Sample products: Absorbine UltraShield EX Fly Mask; Cashel’s Crusader Fly Mask; Duravet Equine’s Duramask; Farnam’s Super Mask II; Kensington Product’s Fly Mask and Catch Fly Mask; and Wrangler Fly Masks from Professional’s Choice; SmartPak’s Classic Fly Mask; Weaver Leather’s fly masks.

Fly sheets and leg coverings work because they reduce the overall body surface exposed to the predations of flies.

Photo Courtesy of Wrangler

#7 Fly Sheets/Leg Coverings
What they are: Flywear that protects your horse’s legs and body from flying pests. These are important, as he’s extremely sensitive to touch. He feels every fly that lands on him. So imagine how crazy hordes of flies in the height of the season must make him. And if they’re biting flies, it’s even worse.

What makes them effective: The more of your horse’s skin you can cover, the less likely flies are to bite or bother him. Fly sheets and leg coverings work because they reduce the overall body surface exposed to the predations of flies.

How to use them: Choose the fly-sheet material that suits you and your horse best, whether a soft material that’s usually a cotton blend, or a harder material often made with a PVC coating. Also decide whether you’d like a sheet with a neck covering (either permanent or detachable).

Leg coverings need to be easy to apply, stay up, and be breathable, so they don’t create an unhygienic environment underneath.

Insider tip: Generally, a fly sheet made from harder material is more durable, but it also tends to cause more rub sores and can be more difficult to fit properly, because it’s stiffer.

Sample products: Dover Saddlery fly sheets; Horseware Ireland’s Amigo and Rambo Fly Rugs; Wrangler Fly Sheet and Leg Wraps from Professional’s Choice; Schneider Saddlery’s fly sheets; SmartPak’s Deluxe Fly Sheet with Insect Shield, the Classic Fly Sheet, and Deluxe Fly Boots; Summer Whinnys’ horse socks, Weaver Leather’s fly sheets.

Jenny Sullivan is a long-time horsewoman, freelance writer, and equine journalist who lives in Wheat Ridge, Colorado.

Daily rides range from 20 to 35 miles and cover a wide range of terrain.

Photo Courtesy of Offbeat Outfitters

Destination: The Masai Mara National Reserve, the largest reserve in southwest Kenya. The reserve is famous for its Great Migration from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Mara from July to October. Migrating wildlife includes big cats, zebras, Thomson’s gazelle, eland, and wildebeests. Year-round residents include elephant, impala, African buffalo, Grant’s gazelle, giraffe, topi, warthog, and waterbuck.

Riding-tour operator: Offbeat Safaris, which offers a specialized riding program for equestrians who want a unique African safari experience.

Accommodations: Home base is Deloraine Estate, the home of Offbeat Safaris founders, Tristan and Cindy Voorspuy. It’s located on the western edge of the Great Rift Valley on the lower slopes of Mount Londiani. Built by Lord Francis Scott in 1920 and set in 3,500 acres of farm, it’s a fine example of Kenya’s colonial architecture, reflecting the elegant lifestyle of a bygone era.

Hosts: The Voorspuys. Tristan has led safaris in Africa since the early 1980s; his knowledge and experience of Africa and its wildlife have led to him being chosen as one Kenya’s honorary Game Wardens. He has a deep understanding of the interaction between wildlife and man on horseback.

Cindy is one of Africa’s top ranked women polo players. There isn’t much she doesn't know about rearing, stabling, managing, and riding horses in Kenya. At Deloraine, she looks after more than 80 horses, preparing them for Offbeat’s mobile riding safaris.

What to expect: Safaris comprise between 2 and 12 travelers with one or two guides and a full complement of staff to support the whole operation. A team of expert guides will take you through the bush. Daily rides range from 20 to 35 miles and cover a wide range of terrain. You’ll get extremely close to big game, and experience the natural reactions between wildlife and horse.

Top ride: Offbeat Safaris’ 11-day Masai Mara ride, which starts at Siana Spings, then progresses through the Mara, stopping at seasonal camps at night. For an itinerary, click here.

Contact: Offbeat Safaris, bookings@offbeatsafaris.com; www.offbeatsafaris.com.

Click here for a video introduction to Offbeat Safaris’ horseback rides through the Masai Mara National Reserve.

Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve is famous for its wildlife migration from July to October. Migrating wildlife includes big cats, zebras, Thomson’s gazelle, eland, and wildebeests.

Photo Courtesy of Offbeat Outfitters

June 10, 2013--William Coleman III and Phillip Dutton both maintained their leads in the final show jumping phase to win the CCI3* and CIC3* divisions respectively at the 2013 Volvo CCI3* Bromont Three Day Event, The Todd Sandler Challenge, held June 6 to 9 at the Bromont Olympic Horse Park in Bromont, Quebec.

The Olympic equestrian discipline of Three Day Eventing is often referred to as the triathlon of equestrian sport, with the phases of dressage, cross-country, and show jumping taking place over three consecutive days. While the cross-country is considered the most thrilling phase, the show jumping at Bromont held plenty of excitement, as scores were very close among the top contenders in all four International Equestrian Federation (FEI) sanctioned divisions.

William Coleman III of the United States became the winner of the CCI3* division and the Todd Sandler Challenge. Riding Obos O’Reilly, owned by Four-Star Eventing Group Syndicate, Coleman posted one of only two clear show jumping rounds in the CCI3* division. The challenging show jumping course was designed by Mauricio Garcia of Puerto Rico, who was assisted by Canada’s Jean Pierre Ayotte.

“I do love this event,” said Coleman, who was a member of the U.S. Eventing Team at the 2012 London Olympics. “I like the way it’s run and the people who run it. I always have a good time here. Some people have events where they tend to do well, and Bromont is one for me.”

Finishing second in the CCI3* was Canadian Olympian Selena O’Hanlon of Kingston, ON, who piloted Foxwood High to the only other clear round in the division, rising three spots from fifth place following Saturday’s cross-country phase. O’Hanlon also rode two other horses in the CCI3*, both of which finished in the placings. With Bellaney Rock she was fourth, while A First Romance placed 12th.

“This was the first CCI3* for all three of my horses,” said O’Hanlon. “I am thrilled with how all of them went this week, and I’m happy to be taking them home happy and sound. I’m looking forward to the future with all three of them.”

In the CIC3* division, Phillip Dutton maintained the lead he established after cross-country with Team Rebecca’s Ben. In the CIC3* division, competitors rode a shortened cross-country course compared to the CCI3*, but the final show jumping phase was over the same course as the CCI3*. Dutton had one fence down in the show jumping, but with a two rail lead, he still comfortably finished first with 72.1 penalties.

“I am overall pleased with Ben; he’s a very talented horse,” said Dutton, a two-time Olympic Team gold medalist for his native Australia who now competes for the U.S. “Ben’s work is getting better and higher quality.

Dutton, a frequent competitor at Bromont, was once again impressed with the calibre of competition.
“Bromont and Fair Hill CCI3* are the two hardest competitions of this level in North America in terms of terrain and course design,” he said in reference to the annual events held in Quebec and Maryland.

Moving up to second place with one of only two clear show jumping rounds in the CIC3* division was Canada’s Jessica Phoenix on Pavarotti, the horse with which she won individual gold and team silver at the 2011 Pan American Games.

“Pavarotti was awesome all weekend long, and he was so rideable on cross-country,” said Phoenix, who was the highest placed Canadian at the 2012 London Olympics. “He couldn’t have jumped any better.”

In the CCI2* division, Erin Sylvester of the United States managed to maintain her lead, despite a less than perfect show jumping round riding Mettraise. Her eight fault round and final score of 70.4 penalties stood up against the field of 14, after only four riders went clear in the show jumping.
“Overall I was really happy with my horse today; she got excited in the ring but she still tried really hard,” said Sylvester. “This is a big improvement over where she was even a few months ago.”

American Buck Davidson moved up five places in the CCI2* show jumping phase, vaulting from seventh after cross-country to second place after posting one of the division’s few clear rounds with Santa’s Keeper. Davidson was also third with Knight Lion.

In the CCI1* division, Waylon Roberts of Port Perry, ON, was the only Canadian winner at the 2013 Volvo Bromont Three Day Event. It wasn’t an easy victory for Roberts, who went into the show jumping with Yarrow only 4.8 penalties ahead of Erin Sylvester on Paddy the Caddy, who had added a single time penalty to their score in the show jumping. That one time penalty turned out to be just enough to keep Roberts in the top spot. After taking one rail and adding four faults to his score, Roberts finished just 0.8 points ahead of Sylvester, with 49.7 penalties.

“I thought the course today was really well designed. It was challenging for the level,” said Roberts, who was excited to have had such a major success with Yarrow, a six-year-old Canadian Sport Horse gelding sired by Yavari and bred by his parents, Canadian Olympians Ian Roberts and Kelly Plitz. “I’m really excited about Yarrow. He’s also a part of our family.”

The success of the Volvo CCI3* Bromont Three Day Event relies on the support of many sponsors and volunteers each year. Volvo returned as title sponsor for the second year, and Bromont was included for the third time in the PRO Tour Series. The Professional Riders Organization (PRO) is a non-profit group of accomplished event riders dedicated to promoting the sport and advocating safety for horses and riders.

“We are delighted with Volvo’s involvement again this year,” said Sue Ockendon, Event Director of the Volvo CCI3* Bromont Three Day Event. “We are also grateful for the sponsorship we have received from SSG Gloves, and from Keith and Debbi Eaman. We greatly appreciate the support from all of our sponsors.”

While the weather didn’t cooperate for much of the weekend, Ockendon says it’s a tribute to the ongoing improvements to the footing and drainage at Bromont, and to the efforts of the cross-country jump crew that the event was a success in spite of the rain.

“Jay Hambly and his crew worked very hard to make it possible for the horses to run at every fence,” said Ockendon of Bromont’s resident course builder and his team. “They put gravel down at every fence throughout the day on Saturday. That’s what helped the footing stay solid.”

The cross-country courses at Bromont were designed by Derek Di Grazia of the United States. Riders agreed that Di Grazia, the resident course designer at Bromont since 2009, created tracks of world class quality at the 2013 event.

“Derek is arguably one of the best designers in the world,” said Dutton. “What you find with his courses is consistency, and his courses are bigger than what you see in most of North America. You can have confidence in the lines that the distances are going to work.”

The 2013 Bromont Three Day Event was host to an FEI Course for officials, technical delegates, stewards and course designers. The course drew people from around the world to Bromont, which is in the final stages of bidding for the right to host the 2018 FEI World Equestrian Games.

“The FEI Course was very good,” said Ockendon. “It gave people from all around the world the opportunity to come to Bromont and see how it works.”
The Volvo CCI3* Bromont Three Day Event, The Todd Sandler Challenge, is made possible in part through a contribution from the Government of Canada. The organizing committee also wishes to thank the Gouvernement du Québec, Ministère de l’Éducation, du Loisir et du Sport, for their support of this year’s event.

For more information about the Volvo CCI3* Bromont Three Day Event, please visit the bilingual website, www.bromontcci.com. Live scoring is available throughout the duration of the event.

Volvo CCI3* Bromont Three Day Event – Final Results

CCI3*
William Coleman III (USA) – Obos O’Reilly – 58.2
Selena O’Hanlon (CAN) – Foxwood High – 65.6
Sarah Cousins (USA) – Tsunami – 68.2
Selena O’Hanlon (CAN) – Bellaney Rock – 69.5
Alison Springer (USA) – Copycat Chloe – 77.0

CIC3*
Phillip Dutton (USA) – Ben – 72.1
Jessica Phoenix (CAN) – Pavarotti – 76.3
Lauren Kieffer (USA) – R. F. Cosima – 80.5
Caroline Martin USA) – Titanium – 91.6
Sarah Cousins (USA) – Westerly – 92.7

CCI2*
Erin Sylvester (USA) – Mettraise – 70.4
Buck Davidson (USA) – Santa’s Keeper – 78.8
Buck Davidson (USA) – Knight Lion – 82.4
Booli Selmayr (USA) – Castle Diamond – 82.7
Kate Chadderton (AUS) – VS McCuan Civil Liberty – 83.4

CCI1*
Waylon Roberts (CAN) – Yarrow – 49.7
Erin Sylvester (USA) – Paddy the Caddy – 50.1
Mikki Kuchta (USA) – Calle – 54.5
Phillip Dutton (USA) – Mansfield Park – 54.7
Lucia Strini (USA) – Petit Filou II – 54.9

APHA gelding Frankly Zippin overcame major leg problems to become a successful Western pleasure mount.

Photo by Sabrina Tarter

Barn name: Frankie.

His people: G. Larry and Judy Murfitt, West Point, Indiana.

What grabs us: After an incredible growth spurt, Frankie suffered from severe tendon problems in both front legs. With some corrective shoeing, homemade casts, and dedication from Larry, the gelding went on to become a successful Western pleasure mount-earning 55 national points, as well as a Register of Merit award in the event.

Find out how Frankie overcame these issues in this Q&A with his owner, Larry Murfitt.

H&R: What did you first do when you found out about Frankie's tendon problems?

Murfitt: We took him to the vet and did all kinds of X-Rays and procedures to try to see what we could do. We were given three options. We could do surgery: We could cut his suspensory tendons, and, hopefully, the big tendon behind his leg would stretch and grow, they said sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn’t.

The surgery was rather expensive—especially when you had to consider that we had to do it on both legs. So the other two possibilities were corrective shoeing to try and lift his heel and elongate his toe to try and take some pressure off his tendons. They didn’t give much hope that that would do anything.

The third alternative was put him down. We’d just bought him and hadn’t bought insurance on him. I’d spent quite a bit of money getting him. We couldn’t afford the surgery, and I didn’t want to put him down, so the only alternative was shoeing.

I got together with the vet and the farrier, and we came up with a design of a shoe that would raise his heel and extend his toe at the same time-to try and take pressure off the tendon, but still have enough pressure that it would continue to stretch. However, that wasn’t very probable.

H&R: What did you do then?

Murfitt: I brought him home, and I remembered from years ago, I was talking with an old horseman. He'd had a problem with a similar situation, and he made some casts out of PVC pipe. He cast the horse so he could stand without knuckling over and to help stretch that tendon.

So I made some casts and put them on him; he had to stay in his stall all day. He got 20 minutes of hand-walking: I’d take the casts off and walk him 20 minutes a day. Then I'd put him back in his stall, put the casts back on, and he’d stand in his stall the rest of the time.

We got through the winter and come spring, he was walking pretty decently when I was hand-walking him, so I decided to put him on a longe line. He went ahead and walked nicely on the edge of that longe line, so I thought I’d see how he did a trot. So I trotted him a little bit, and he was fine. He didn’t mind at all.

I’d still take him back and put him back in his stall and put his casts back on. Then about the time it was warm enough to ride, one day I was longeing him and thought, ‘Heck, if he can go around and walk that way, he can carry me. So I got on him bareback and we just walked around the arena. He was a 2-year-old, and he hadn’t been broken yet. But I just got on him anyway, and he walked around that arena like he was very pleased to do so.

After a few days of that, I thought, 'Let’s see what he does when we trot.' So we trotted, and no problem. A few more weeks went by, and I thought let’s just see how he does at the lope. I put him up into a lope, and not a problem. So I stopped using the casts and kept exercising him.

We gradually brought back the extended toe on the shoe and lowered the heel and got back to a three-degree wedge shoe, and shoed before the end of that summer and then we started showing him.

There’s a sale on “Super Steed” vitamins at your local feed store. It’s almost half the price of the daily scoop of “Performance Lift” that you usually give your horse. What should you do? Is one vitamin supplement really that much better than the other?

That’s a great question. Chances are even your veterinarian doesn’t know. In fact, if truth be told, solid science about vitamin and mineral supplementation for horses is in its infancy. You need more than price comparisons and marketing claims for help making a decision about which supplement to choose.

I’ll explain what role vitamins and minerals play in maintaining your horse’s health, and how basic nutrient requirements are determined. (You may be surprised to learn how little we really know about your horse’s needs.) Then, I’ll fill you in on what we do know about some specific (and important) vitamins and minerals. Finally, I’ll help you decide what supplementation might really be beneficial for your horse, so you can decide what product to choose.

Vitamins and Minerals 101
A vitamin is an organic (contains carbon atoms) compound that’s essential for normal growth and metabolism, and is required in small quantities in the diet because it can’t be synthesized or produced by the organism (your horse). Vitamins have diverse jobs when it comes to keeping your horse’s body functioning. For example, vitamin D aids in absorption of calcium from your horse’s small intestine, while vitamin E scavenges for damaging “free radicals,” and helps to protect the body’s cell membranes.

In contrast to vitamins, minerals have a definition separate from their role in body functioning. A mineral is an inorganic (does not contain carbon atoms) substance that’s stable at room temperature and has an ordered arrangement of atoms; in simpler terms, it’s a solid crystal. Almost 5,000 minerals are known to exist, and of those, a relatively small number are required in the diet of your horse to make sure his body functions the way it should. Certain minerals are critical, such as potassium, which is key to keeping your horse’s muscles contracting—and his heart pumping!

What About Requirements?
A great deal remains unknown about specific requirements for many vitamins and minerals. Most recommendations are based on the estimates published by the National Research Council of the National Acadamies, and come from review of available data by experts on their panel. It’s important to realize that these requirements aren’t necessarily determined by specific studies—so recommendations may change as we learn more. The most recent NRC requirement estimates were published in 2007.

The most difficult thing to decide is whether your horse needs supplementation at all, and if so, how much? If your healthy horse with a moderate work schedule has turn-out time and a diet of good-quality hay, chances are his vitamin and mineral needs are met already. Toxicity is rare, which is why the most common recommendation you’ll hear is to “provide a balanced vitamin and mineral supplement” as an insurance policy against deficiency. The guide below will help you understand why your horse needs specific vitamins and minerals, where he gets them, and when you might need to add something extra to his daily ration.

Vitamin Guide
Vitamins can be divided into two groups: fat-soluble (dissolve in fat) and water-soluble (dissolve in water). Fat-soluble vitamins include A, D, E, and K, while water-soluble vitamins include vitamin C and the B vitamin group (thiamin or B1, riboflavin, B12, niacin, folacin, pantothenic acid, biotin, and B6).

The B vitamins are considered in a group because they all have a similar function of assisting with cell metabolism. Historically, they were believed to be a single vitamin, until it was discovered that they all have a slightly different chemical composition. For practical purposes, an important distinction is that fat-soluble vitamins have potential for toxicity, while water-soluble vitamins do not. Here is a guide to what we do (and don’t) know about these vitamins.

Vitamin A
What it does: Vitamin A is crucial for proper function of proteins necessary for vision. It plays a role in differentiation of cells during growth, is important for proper muscle function, and helps keep mucous membranes healthy. It’s also involved with reproductive function.

Where it comes from: Beta-carotene, which is converted into vitamin A, is present in fresh pasture and hay. Your horse will store it in his liver for several months, even after it’s no longer available, which will help protect him from deficiency for several months when pasture is no longer available or hay quality suffers.

Needed by 1,100-pound horse: Approximately 15,000 IU per day (1mg of B-carotene is equal to approximately 400 IU of vitamin A).

When he might need more: Vitamin A supplementation is rarely necessary unless your horse has no access to green forage. If you have fertility problems with your mare or if she’s pregnant but lacks access to pasture or good, green hay, vitamin A supplementation might be recommended.

B Vitamins
What they do: Vitamins in this group are all involved with metabolism of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. They help your horse produce the energy he needs to live from the food he eats.

Where they come from: B vitamins are produced by the bacteria that live in your horse’s large intestine. They’re also found in good-quality pasture and hay.

Needed by 1,100-pound horse: Most, if not all, of your horse’s B vitamin needs are met by production in his own body, and the remaining amount he needs is usually met from hay or pasture. Specific levels for supplementation haven’t been established. When he might need more: If your horse has poor-quality hooves, supplementation with 20mg per day of biotin may help. B vitamins are believed to have a calming effect, and might be recommended for a nervous horse.

A troubled youth steps into the pasture to meet a therapist, a horse specialist, and his equine partner. The teen has gotten in trouble with school, and he’s been sent to therapy for anger management. But here in the pasture—far away from the clinical office—he’s just a kid with a horse, forging a bond and learning to deal with his emotions as the horse responds in kind.

This is equine-facilitated psychotherapy, and while the method is unique, the results are decidedly positive in cases that involve mental issues. It can be used for psycho-social and mental-health needs that include anxiety, psychotic, and mood disorders; behavioral difficulties; mental illnesses such as schizophrenia, depression, and post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD); and major life changes that include environmental changes, divorce, grief, and loss.

Although the horse’s value in physical therapy has long been acknowledged (see “Horse Therapy History,” page 2), the psychotherapy branch is relatively new. We’ll introduce you to it with explanations and insights from practicing therapists and counselors.

Equine Responses Hold the Key
The Professional Association of Therapeutic Horsemanship International (PATH International, which also incorporates the group formerly known as NARHA) defines equine-facilitated psychotherapy as “an interactive process in which a licensed mental-health professional working with or as an appropriately credentialed equine professional, partners with suitable equine(s) to address psychotherapy goals set forth by the mental-health professional and the client.”

“Horses sense what’s going on underneath the surface with people,” says Jody Enget, PATH International’s president of the board of directors and executive director at Pikes Peak Therapeutic Riding Center in Colorado Springs, Colorado. “Someone might seem to be functioning on the outside, but if he or she has problems running deeper, the horse can unveil them.”

How so?

Enget explains that the act of working with a horse and walking around a therapy center releases energy, encouraging clients to open up to their treatment. When a client needs to learn about empathy and anger management, a horse’s physical responses can be a powerful motivator.

“People always say horses have unconditional love,” Enget remarks. “I disagree—they’re a fight-or-flight animal. If someone were working with an at-risk kid and said, ‘You have anger issues,’ the kid might not take any advice. But a horse will sense that client’s anger and shy away. The kid will see that and say, ‘What can I do, I don’t want to hurt the horse.’ This teaches a lesson about empathy and the effect anger can have.”

Programs designed for military veterans recovering from post traumatic stress disorder are seeing excellent results by incorporating equine therapy. Horses for Heroes is one such program.

Equine Therapists at Work
While an equine-facilitated psychotherapy session may vary, most include a certified therapist, a therapy horse, a horse specialist to monitor safety and the horse’s behavior, and the client.

Pikes Peak Therapeutic Riding Center, the oldest, largest, and only accredited PATH premier center in Colorado, provides therapeutic riding and hippotherapy (see “Equine Therapy Defined,” page 2). In 2008, the center implemented a Horses for Heroes program to provide equine-assisted therapy for local military.

Clients learn basic horse care and horsemanship skills while engaging in situations that encourage discussion about the problems they face. Enget says the center most often treats troubled at-risk youth and military veterans coping with PTSD.

“We’re teaching people the relationship skills needed to work with a horse,” Enget explains. “And those skills easily relate to their difficulty relating to people in their lives. You really just teach the clients horsemanship skills, and the issues will start to emerge.”

Rocky Top Therapy Center in Keller, Texas, has provided therapeutic riding and hippotherapy to clients for more than 20 years. The center has aided school-age children through a program called Right Trail since 2001. In 2010, the center received a government grant to create a branch of the Horses for Heroes program that cares for military personnel and veterans. Rocky Top’s executive director, Mike Hogg, says the program encompasses therapeutic riding, hippotherapy, and equine-facilitated psychotherapy for individuals, couples, and families of members of the military.

“It doesn’t take long after meeting for the counselees to bond with their horse partners,” Hogg says. “That helps the counselee relax and start talking about what his or her real problems are. The horse facilitates getting down into the areas where the hurt resides, and that’s where the counselor can help the client to start piecing things back together and get that person to where he or she is living a higher quality of life.”

A therapeutic riding session at Rocky Top Therapy Center typically takes place in one of the facility’s pastures, and the sessions focus on groundwork.

“It’s quiet in the pasture, the client is out there with the horse, and it makes for a conducive environment for counseling,” Hogg says. “People feel very relaxed out there and are more likely to share what’s disturbing them.”

Hogg says the center treats clients suffering from depression, schizophrenia, and other disorders. The program doesn’t include medication, but the counseling that’s included as part of its overall treatment often has excellent results.

“People come here because it’s different,” Hogg says. “I had one colonel tell me all he knows is when he sends his people out here, they come back better.”