Checkpoint #3: Bridle
In the Arena
"Most of the time when people have trouble on the trail, it's because they just head out without warming up themselves or their horse first," says Palm. "If you take time to warm up your horse before going out on your ride, you'll quickly find out what his mood is that day, and you'll take the edge off him if he's feeling a little 'high.'"
Before you step into the saddle, stretch and limber up, especially in cold weather. Then take at least 20 minutes - or as long as you need - to longe your horse, or ride him in the arena or pasture to burn off some of his natural energy before you hit the trail. Walk, trot, and lope/canter in both directions, and make sure he's listening and responding to your cues. This simple strategy will go a long way toward making your trail ride safe, relaxing, and fun.
Bridle type. Either a leather or nylon bridle is acceptable for trail riding. Secure the headstall with a browband and throatlatch. When riding English and using a snaffle, Palm recommends adding a cavesson (noseband) to keep your horse from opening his mouth and to provide more control. If he can open his mouth, he can evade bit pressure, because a snaffle works off his mouth's sides.
Many trail riders like combination halter/bridles. (For more information on trail bridles and bits, see "Trail Bridles & Bits," Special Section, May/June '06). Or, put a well-fitting nylon halter on underneath your horse's headstall. Make sure the halter is fitted high enough (one inch under each cheekbone) to prevent bit pinching. Take along a stout lead rope so you can safely tie your horse when you stop along the trail.
Reins. Split reins or a single rein are a matter of personal preference. Palm chooses to ride with 5/8-inch wide split-leather reins made from bridle leather, because they're a good fit for women's hands. Round reins are her second choice, but she prefers leather over nylon. Nylon is slick, while leather offers better grip and contact. However, in rainy weather, leather can become slippery, so nylon is the better choice. Palm carries an extra set of reins in her saddlebag for this reason. If you ride English, you'll find laced or braided reins offer a good grip.
If you ride with a single rein, leave those short barrel racing or roping reins at home. They belong in the arena. When you trail ride with very short reins, you may tend to lay them on your horse's neck, sacrificing control. Or, your rein cues may be too abrupt simply because you don't have enough slack. Reins should be long enough that when you pick them up, there's a good 6 to 12 inches of bite, the part of the rein that hangs down. This extra length gives you adjustment options and allows you to maintain a loose rein or light contact when you don't need greater control.
Hardware: Use buckles or leather lacing, rather than snaps, to attach the reins to the bit. "Jiggling snaps can annoy a sensitive or nervous horse, because it stimulates them even more," Palm notes. "If you do use snaps, make sure the snap weight isn't heavier than the rein; otherwise it'll move constantly and send vibrations to the bit, which some horses find very annoying. These vibrations also interfere with clear rein cues. If you use snaps and your horse mouths the bit a lot, or is nervous, replace those snaps with leather lacing, and you might notice a big improvement."
Expert Tip
Do you need a breastcollar for trail riding? The answer depends on where you do most of your riding. If you often ride in hilly terrain, a breastcollar is desirable, as it prevents your saddle from slipping back when going uphill.
Look for a well-made, leather breastcollar, and properly adjust it to fit your horse. It should fit snugly - not tight and never loose. It should rest above your horse's point of the shoulder (as shown). If it sits too low over the point of the shoulder, it'll restrict his movement and cause him pain. The front center ring should rest right at the base of his neck; if it's any lower, the breastcollar is sitting too low.
Checkpoint #4: Bit
Bit type. "You should ride in the least severe bit you need to have control of your horse," Palm notes. "People tend to have more bit than they need. They think they need more bit on the trail, but a more severe bit enhances sensitivity and response. When you take your horse on the trail, he's stimulated by the new surroundings and will be more reactive to the bit. Instead of getting more control, you can actually have less."
When you head out on the trail, ride in the same bit that you use in the arena. If your horse performs well in a sidepull, bosal or hackamore, that's fine for the trail, too.
Any bit can be abusive depending on the rider's hands. Even a snaffle bit - which sports a broken mouthpiece and lacks shanks for leverage - can be severe in the wrong hands.
Bit fit. Make sure the bit you are using fits and is adjusted properly in your horse's mouth. It shouldn't sit too low. There should be one wrinkle in the corners of his mouth, just above the bit.
If your horse is comfortable with the bit, his mouth, head-and-neck carriage, and neck muscles will be relaxed, and his eye will be soft. Is his mouth always moving, is his neck tense, or does he frequently toss his head? Any or all of these can be signs the bit isn't right for him, isn't fitted properly, or you're being too heavy-handed.
Curb strap. If you ride in a curb bit, use a plain leather curb strap with buckles on both sides for ease of adjustment, says Palm. A properly fitted curb strap will create just the right leverage to work on the bars (the space between the incisors and the molars where the mouthpiece lies) of your horse's lower jaw. If the strap is too tight, it places constant tension on the bit. If the strap is too loose, the bit loses leverage. To check adjustment, make sure you can slip two fingers under the strap and slide them along your horse's chin.
