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Grand Trail Ride in the Badlands

Riding in the hoodoos area of the Painted Canyon. Left to right: Tess McCarihan, Charlene Krone, Angie and Joyce Bissell.

One of the few places folks are able to ride their horses cross country among free-ranging wild buffalo is in North Dakota's Theodore Roosevelt National Park. On your trail ride you're treated not only to views of buffalo, but also of wild horses, elk, deer, mountain sheep, and prairie dogs. This varied wildlife display against a fantastically eroded landscape of the Badlands makes for memorable trail riding experiences.

Local Color
The town of Medora sits at the entrance of the park's South Unit; there's riding in the park's North Unit, as well. The south area around Medora is very horse-friendly. We were introduced to this region a few years earlier by avid horsemen Angie and Joyce Bissell who've guided us on trails both inside and outside the park. We were returning to do further riding and exploration.

Medora was founded in 1883 by a French nobleman, the Marquis de Mores. He named the town for his bride, the daughter of a wealthy New York banker. The marquis constructed a large meatpacking plant with plans to process cattle and ship the beef Back East in newly developed refrigerator cars. He built a large house on the edge of Medora, dubbed Chateau de Mores. Today, this house is a State Historic Site and is open for tours. Unfortunately, the marquis met financial ruin and left the cattle business - and Medora - in 1886.

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At the same time, another colorful character arrived in the area, Theodore Roosevelt. Both Roosevelt's mother and wife had just died. He came out in 1883 to hunt buffalo and have a mental escape. He quickly fell in love with the land. In spite of his "Eastern dude" appearance and thick spectacles, he gained the respect of local cowboys.

Roosevelt also invested in cattle-raising and owned two large ranches: the Maltese Cross, seven miles south of Medora, and the Elkhorn, 35 miles north of town. John F. Kennedy was the youngest elected president. However, Roosevelt was our youngest president, ascending to that office at age 42 with the assassination of President McKinley in 1901. He called his years in the Badlands, "the romance of my life," adding that if it weren't for his experiences in the Badlands, he never could've become president.

Before entering the park, stop at the visitor center. There, you'll find park maps to help you plan your rides. Buy the detailed National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map for the park, which lists selected waypoints of various trails and trail junctions (800/962-1643; www.trailsillustrated.com). Inquire about trail conditions and any trail closures. Camping information is also available.

While there, browse through the museum displays. You'll find Roosevelt's personal artifacts, including the shirt (complete with bullet hole) that Roosevelt was wearing during an assassination attempt in 1912. At the time, he was running on the Bull Moose Party's ticket for president. The bullet knocked him down but stopped short of doing mortal damage. He got back up and said, "It takes more than that to stop a bull moose!" He finished his speech before seeking medical attention. Now, that's tough!

You may also want to stroll through Roosevelt's cabin, which was moved from his Maltese Cross Ranch to the visitor center.

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