Bridging and Rocking
Bridging and rocking are two very different but related problems. Bridging occurs when there is more pressure or surface contact with the horse's back at the front and back of a saddle and less pressure or contact under the rider's seat. It is very common with horses who have lost topline muscling through the natural aging process or due to injury. Bridging is also common with short-backed horses like some Arabians, Morgans, Andalusians, and Quarter Horses. Bridging is also more apt to show up if a saddle has been built on a very straight tree. The right tree should mold to the contours of the horse's back.
To identify bridging, run your hand beneath the saddle under the bars or panels from the front of the seat to the back end of the saddle. If you notice that there is more pressure as you slide your hand toward the back of the saddle, there is probably a bridging problem with that horse and saddle combination. Going back to the weight distribution discussion, there will certainly be more than two pounds per square inch at the four outside corners of the saddle because the center section is not supporting its share of the weight.
Rocking is the opposite weight distribution problem. When a saddle's tree is too curved for a particular horse it will pivot or rock under the rider's seat. This is less common and more difficult to identify. If a saddle with a pronounced curve is placed on a horse with a straight back (as viewed from profile), there will not be as much contact in front and back and too much pressure beneath the rider. If you have been riding in this type of saddle, you may notice a cluster of bumps on the horse's back that look like bug bites in the seat area.
Length
The only portion of a horse that can support our weight is his ribcage. In order to maintain his health, the bars or panels of a saddle cannot bear weight past the horse's last rib. A simple way to find the last rib is to find the point of the horse's hip, and then slide your fingers forward until you feel the edge of the last rib. From there, follow the rib up and forward until it disappears under a large muscle. This marks the farthest point on the horse's back where a rider's weight should be carried.
Since you cannot see the end of most western saddle bars, I usually estimate by measuring at a 45-degree angle from the back edge of the seat to the skirt. If this area sits beyond the last rib when the saddle is properly placed, it is too long. Unfortunately, I find many sore horses with unsuitably long western saddles. It is not uncommon for some draft crosses to have shorter saddle areas, so don't be fooled by how sturdy these horses look. They were bred to haul wagons, not to ride.
These are some of the easier aspects of saddle fitting to identify. There are more that are a bit more subtle, but can still make a horse unhappy. If your horse is acting up under saddle but is an angel otherwise, your saddle may be a reason. Check your saddle for correct fit, and call a veterinarian to rule out any health causes.
Finding just the right saddle may require trying on more than a few saddles. My best advice is to support your local saddle stores. They often have a good selection of new and used saddles and should allow you to match the saddle to your horse's back to ensure a good fit. If you purchase off the Internet or through a catalog, make sure that the saddle can be returned-and remember that there will be shipping costs.
Finally, purchase the very best quality you can afford. Better quality saddles generally fit more horses, hold their value, and will provide you and your horse years of comfort and enjoyment.
Editor's Note: We would like to thank Tiare Wells and Dr. James Heird of the Colorado State University Equine Sciences Program for their help, facility, horses, and equipment, along with Mike Bergin of Down Under Saddle Supply, Inc.
