We've all experienced the frustration of trying to catch a runaway horse who doesn't want to be caught. Whether we claim it's because your horse sees the halter in our hands or a juvenile delinquent buddy in his pasture leads him astray, it isn't fun. But this system of catching a runaway will help make that a thing of the past, and in a more advanced lesson, you can teach the horse to come to you on cue.
Before we head into the how to, let's pause for a moment to rule out what doesn't work, or what won't work reliably. Generations of horse owners have thought themselves clever by hiding a halter in a bucket of grain. The horse comes for the grain, and while he's munching, they try to slip the halter onto his head. The problem is that it doesn't work for most horses, and often complicates the problem.
The grain part often gets the horse close, but he ends up snatching a bite, not truly near enough to halter. The attempt to capture him normally results in him bolting away with increased wariness about getting caught. The more savvy folks let him have several mouthfuls of grain before trying to snag him, which only results in a horse who's wary and full.
Another technique that we do not recommend is running a horse until he's tired. That's definitely asking for trouble or potential injury to the horse, as well as training him to run from you - the very opposite of what you want him to learn. The only benefit to using this system is that you get your exercise.
Cornering a horse doesn't work well, either, though it may make sense to restrict his escape routes, as we'll mention later. Cramming a horse into a corner will panic some horses, causing them to try to jump out of the pasture or run through or over obstacles or people in their path. If a horse is already frightened, trapping things will only make his fear worse. And scared horses often hurt themselves or others.
People have tried roping the horse, but unless you're very experienced at that, you'll end up merely chasing the horse with a long rope. Should you catch him, then you're holding a line attached to a horse you have no control over. As with everything else we do with our horse, we need to operate from a position of control. Catching a horse shouldn't be a random snag.
Control - Yeah, Right
It's seems contradictory: We should be in control of a horse we can't catch. But if you keep control in mind, you'll have a lot more success.
Plan to enter the field with a friendly, but matter-of-fact attitude. Resolve to keep your emotions in check - no expressing frustration to your horse or trying to punish him when he causes you extra work. Realize that the horse is going to make some decisions that aren't in keeping with getting caught. Your best options are to use this method to catch the horse, and when time permits, teach the horse to be caught or even to come to you when called.
We begin any lesson where we can - no use wishing for an ideal setup. Ideally, we'd begin in a small corral with safe fencing and footing. So if you have the option of turning your horse into somewhere like that to teach yourself the lesson, so much the better. As you work through it, you're also teaching the horse to be caught.
Catch, Not Corner
- Keep a matter-of-fact attitude.
But let's say you find yourself in a large pasture with a horse who doesn't want to be caught or, worse yet, loose around your yard in an unfenced area. First, eyeball the surroundings to note any place that could be hazardous if the horse goes there. If there's an area of the fence that's weakened or likely to injure the horse if he comes up against it, mentally fence off that area. The same goes if there's a piece of equipment in the field or a muddy or rocky spot. Also note any areas where you can't or don't want to go, such as down a steep hill.
If you have helpers, position them to block access to the area you've mentally fenced off. You want them to stand quietly, unless the horse approaches, in which case you want them to wave their arms and use energetic body language to discourage the horse from going there. Be sure to tell them to stand quietly again the moment the horse has turned away from that area.
Next, decide which side of the horse you want to catch. We're used to thinking of horses as coming directly toward us, but that's unlikely, especially in the case of a horse who doesn't want to be caught. Most horses are more used to being handled on their left, and most people are more comfortable with that, too. That may change depending on what the horse does, as you'll see later, but picture walking up to your horse's head from the left side.
Already you're starting to develop a plan - limit the horse's territory and walk up to his left side. But first you'll have to get close enough.
