In my last two columns (May ’10 and July/August ’10), I outlined the extensive preparations that Vanessa and I made for our late-spring riding adventure in England and Wales with our friend, Paresh, who lives in London.
We chose two hacking services for our riding holiday: FreeRein (www.free-rein.co.uk) in Clyro, Wales; and Studland Stables (www.studlandstables.com) situated in an historic village on the southern coast of England. FreeRein would be a three-day, two-night unguided ride through the Randor Hills. Studland offered a Friday-evening ride along a picturesque beach on Studland Bay.
Seeing the Sites
We arrived a few days early, so we could go sightseeing. With Paresh as our guide, we set out to explore the equine side of London.
Our first stop was the Royal Mews, the Queen’s working stables at Buckingham Palace (www.royalcollection.org.uk). Included in the £7.75 tour were the Royal Harness Shop and Queen’s state carriages. Of all of the coaches on display, we were most awed by the Gold State Coach, c. 1760.
This coach is a golden work of art pulled by a team of eight Windsor Greys. (This term is given to the gray horses used by royalty for ceremonial carriage duties.) At 8,000 pounds, the carriage travels at a mere four miles per hour. The golden carriage is driven by two postillions — men mounted on selected horses in the drive team; these men are dressed in full state livery. Each rider controls four of the fancy grays assigned to the task of pulling the breathtaking vehicle.
The Queen is also served by a number of Cleveland Bays. Of the 30 horses stalled at the Mews, we saw only two. We learned that the other 28 were out doing their jobs.
As we emerged onto the street from Buckingham Palace, we walked directly onto the route of the ceremonial Changing of the Guard. The dressed horses were a ceremonial spectacle; it was an unexpected thrill to watch them pass.
Destination: Wales
After two days of taking in London’s horse statues and famous landmarks, we packed up our bags, breeches, half-chaps, and helmets, jumped into Paresh’s Range Rover, and headed west out of the city into the English countryside. Our destination was FreeRein, located in eastern Wales. Our long-planned, three-day, unguided ride in the Welsh hills would soon be a reality.
It was raining the morning we arrived, but we didn’t mind. After all, what could be better? With three horses and a map, we’d be in horse heaven. FreeRein Director Matt Williams cheerfully greeted us on our arrival. His associate took our bags, tagged them for transport, and offered us a cup of tea. Sitting with Matt under an open shelter, we reviewed maps, directions, and requirements for our trip.
After we each signed a Declaration of Basic Horsemanship, we were taken to our mounts, which were waiting for us in a stone courtyard. Each horse stood quietly as we tacked up and prepared for the day’s adventure. With water in our saddlebags and our directions inside pouches slung around our necks, we were on our way. In about half an hour, the sun came out!
Our fit and friendly mounts proved to be steady and traffic-schooled as we made our way through the winding and varied trails. We rode from farm to farm and eventually from village to village. The new tack, labeled for each horse, made for comfortable riding as the miles ticked by.
The challenge of an unguided ride added an even greater sense of freedom and adventure as we rode along in the sun through unfamiliar lands.
After riding for three hours, we stopped for a quick lunch at The Roast Ox, a local pub in Painscastle. Then we proceeded on to the Old Rectory at Bryngwyns, our first night’s accommodation.
Our hosts, who had painstakingly restored the stone mansion, delighted in preparing a delicious pork chop dinner for us that was included in the room price. Our evening beverage was the beer we had shipped with our bags. After dinner, we walked to a 16th century church with a cemetery.
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Back at the Rectory, we had a great night’s rest ensconced in comfortable beds and enveloped in utter silence. The accommodations for both us and our mounts exceeded our expectations. The second day, vistas and rolling hills were the norm as we rode through beautiful open countryside. We stopped for the night at the Forest Inn Hotel (www.fforestinn.co.uk), where we feasted on a lamb shank dinner. The next morning, our hosts, Sally and Dennis Bradford, accommodated our early breakfast request that permitted us to get down the trail and back to FreeRein headquarters by early Friday.
If you’re so inclined, FreeRein’s unguided trail ride is a definite item for your must do list. It offers a challenging and safe adventure with helmets strongly suggested.
Dorset Beach Ride
Next, our adventure took us 125 miles south to Dorset on the southern coast of England. Dorset is famous for its vista of Old Harry Rocks — Jurassic cliffs made of white chalk and flintstone. Their spires protrude hundreds of feet from the English Channel’s surf. They’re quite a sight.
A fine meal and comfortable accommodations at the historic Manor House Hotel, a 13th century stone estate, awaited our arrival.
We rested up for an evening ride along the beach at Studland Bay. The ride is offered by Studland Stables (www.studland stables.com), a friendly operation run by Helen and Stuart Spreadborough. The horses are well-schooled and wear comfortable, high-quality, English-leather tack.
After lunch on Friday, we reported in and met Helen, a cheerful and helpful horsewoman. She welcomed us, introduced us to the staff, and personally gave us a tour of the facility. We then left for dinner and to prepare for the evening ride.
At 6 p.m., Stuart greeted us as we walked from our vehicle, breeches, half -chaps and helmets in hand. The stables’ handlers had our horses ready and waiting for us. Helen would be our guide. We familiarized ourselves with our steeds, then walked in a line down the trail to the beach.
Once there, we descended down the dunes and onto the level sand. Helen shared the history of the area while we walked along at the edge of the high tide. We even attracted the attention of a few naturalists still on the beach at the end of a warm day.
We asked the horses for a short trot, then moved them into a canter. Away we went! Water and sand flew in all directions. Galloping down that beach on confident horses was exhilarating.
As a bonus, Studland now offers professional photography services on the trail. John Harding (www.studlandphotography.co.uk) is the eye behind the lens of a high-resolution digital camera. We were able to select our favorite images from John’s website, some of which you see on these pages. These photos helped us preserve some fabulous memories.
Studland Stables’ ride along pristine beaches is another item to put on your must do list. Our experience there was wonderful. We can’t say enough about the picturesque vista from Studland Bay.
The stable is just 97 miles away from London. I recommend using the ferry service that spans the harbor opening. If you take this route, you can make the trip in 1½ to 2 hours, depending on the traffic.
A Bridge to Reflection
Our time in England passed too quickly. We enjoyed the equine culture in England and Wales. The friendly and articulate people we met were always willing to help us find our way. At 11:30 the Sunday evening before our departure, Vanessa and I stood on London’s Millennium Bridge listening to the low chimes of Big Ben marking the half hour.
As my mind swirled in thought, I realized that the success of our adventure in the United Kingdom wouldn’t be measured in the number of things we did, what we saw, or where even we rode, but rather how we used our time to relax, enjoy our love of horses, forget about the world, live in the moment, and gain some wisdom.
After all, isn’t that what vacations are for?
