Mules are no longer an oddity in the equestrian world. Their long ears and big, soft eyes, not to mention their intelligence and great ride, have been the reason that a number of riders have switched from horses to mules.
However, because of their intelligence, mules must be trained humanely and correctly. "If they don't know what they can get away with, don't teach them what they can," says Brad Cameron, who's been instructing mulemanship clinics for 13 years.
Cameron, based in Corvallis, Montana, has been riding mules all his life. His family ran an outfitting business, where he grew up riding and handling horses and mules. "I always liked mules," he says. "I was drawn to their personality, the way they react, the way they think, and their overall integrity."
When Cameron started giving clinics, he changed the face of mulemanship. "Some mules brought to me are really troubled," he says. "I've been handed mules that would try to kick my head off, slam me into the rails, knock me down, and run over me. It's very rewarding when I start getting their trust. They become less defensive and able to learn. Unfortunately, before I started teaching owners and mules one-on-one, the mules didn't stay trusting very long. That is why I went to giving clinics where the owners work with their mules."
To teach your mule to relax and focus on you, start with halter-driving. You can also use halter-driving to warm up your mule before you ride, and evaluate his attitude before you mount up or proceed with other work.
Here, we'll first discuss Cameron's halter-driving guidelines, then give you his three-step halter-driving method. Along the way, we'll give you a glimpse into the mind of a mule, in Cameron's own words.
Halter-Driving Guidelines
Halter-driving prepares your mule for riding and the world beyond the pasture. It establishes control and respect that's later transferred to under-saddle work. Even if you're already riding your mule, halter-driving can make a difference. Here are some guidelines:
• Use a halter/lead rope. Use a rope halter and a 12-foot lead rope without a snap. "If the lead attaches with a snap, most of the feel sent down the lead rope will die at the snap," explains Cameron. "Your mule will easily push against the flat nylon and ignore your frustrating, futile attempts at lead-rope direction. The messages you send down the lead rope will be much clearer if you use a good-fitting rope halter with the lead attached directly to it."
• Never use a shanked bit. As your mule becomes well-trained under saddle with a snaffle bit, you may also use a snaffle bit to perform this exercise. Avoid bits with shanks; pressure from the shanks will interfere with your cues.
• Find a good work area. Generally, ground work is done in an enclosed area. However, for halter-driving, you don't necessarily need the confinement of a pen, says Cameron. "You can work next to a trailer before a ride, out in the pasture, or even in the hills."
• Have a plan. Before you work with your mule, know what you want to accomplish and how you'll accomplish it.
• Be patient. Take your time, and set realistic expectations. A lesson may take an hour, a day, a week, or even a month.
• Be confident. Always proceed as though your mule will perfectly perform the lesson. This approach will instill confidence in both your mule and yourself.
• Reward with pats. Reward desired behavior with pats or rubs, not treats from your hand, says Cameron. Treats can encourage biting.
