Natives of Vermont's Northeast Kingdom proudly call it "God's Country." Horse lovers heartily agree, especially when the stunning fall colors illuminate the trails, making every ride seem like a journey toward heaven. And why not? There aren't many places where a firm rule of etiquette as well as local law states that no matter where you go, horses have the right of way. Whether you're trail riding across a neighbor's back forty, up one of the hundreds of miles of wooded trails, or just making your way down a country road, everything except an occasional wild moose yields for the trail horse and his rider.
It's exactly that lure, the unparalleled fall foliage-bright and brilliant colors dancing across mountaintops and valleys, bubbling fresh water streams, crisp temperatures, breathtaking views, and the unquestionable right of the horse and rider-that attracted our group north again. It was our second pilgrimage.
This time, we chose the first week of October to ensure warm weather while still catching the fall foliage. Last year, we went in the second week of October. The turning leaves were maybe a little more dramatic, but temperatures were cooler. Locals say anytime from late September through October is the right time. We agree, but if you're going to go trail riding, check the local area seasonal patterns to make the most of it.
In our group were 13 riders from the northern Kentucky area, and my wife and me from Texas. Nancy and I flew into Boston, two couples flew into Burlington, Vermont, and the rest of us trucked horses and gear about 1,000 miles. Our final destination was Peacham, a small, quaint village just off Interstate 91.
Our hosts, Mike and Kathy Hartong, our good friends in the horse business, own a farm around Peacham. Their Cedar Grove Farm is nestled in a Norman Rockwell-like setting just a gallop south of the village. There, they have 10 Rocky Mountain Horses and about 30 head of unique beef cattle called Diamond Jubilee, which they developed themselves.
To find the farm, all we had to do was look for the many "leaf peekers" (the fall tourists) who snap photos outside the farm's gates. After buying the dilapidated farm a few years ago, the Hartongs rebuilt it into one of the most heralded and photographed in the area.
Our other host was Nan Woods, owner of Heavensent Farm, located within trotting distance north of Peacham. By choice, Nan's place is isolated from the leaf peekers. But if you're an invited guest, there's no place on earth like Nan's.
After a day's rest, our group of 19 riders left Cedar Grove Farm to trek the hills south of Peacham. Our route began on the main road to the downtown. Motor vehicles pulled over to let us pass. Tourists snapped pictures. We turned at the general store and headed up a dirt road.
It's been said the best of Vermont isn't touched by pavement. We instantly agreed. The roads-lined with maple trees turning all the colors of a child's coloring book-meandered through some of the most spectacular scenery we could imagine.
Just west of the store, we passed through a cemetery set on a hillside overlooking one of the area's picture-book valleys, with red barns, white farmhouses, and church steeples rising into the blue sky.
The first day, we mostly stuck to the dirt roads while our horses adjusted to their new environment. Mountain streams full of trout flowed briskly alongside and across the roads. Houses were set within a few feet of the road. Farm animals-from sheep and cattle to llamas-would turn their heads as our horses gaited by. Now and then, the trees reached over the roads and touched each other, forming an umbrella and creating light shows as the sun peeked through, bouncing off the colored leaves. No wonder the locals said this was God's Country.
About 90 minutes into our ride, our host treated us to a gourmet lunch, which Kathy had driven to a predetermined spot on the trail. Seldom are trail riders treated to shrimp appetizers, hot broiled chicken, fresh vegetables, and dessert. Kathy surprised us with Rocky Mountain Horse cookies, complete with icing in chocolate and flaxen-common breed colors. Drinks included fresh, hot apple cider. ("Fresh" means no more than 24 hours old in Peacham.)
Having refreshed our horses and ourselves, we mounted again to work our way back to Cedar Grove Farm. Nancy and I looked for the perfect spot to capture the essence of the trail ride-but every spot on the trail seemed perfect! We finally settled on a turn in the road where riders would slow their gaited horses, angling them so the camera lens could catch riders, mounts, and the scenery. The result exceeded our best expectations.
The rest of the time, we rode out from Nan's farm. One couple on the ride-Landy and Jimmy Williams of Stanton, Kentucky (retired lawyer and real estate professionals, respectively), prefer fast-paced trail rides. Landy's mount was a 3-year-old mare, My Hearts Desire; Jimmy was on a seasoned gelding out of a champion stallion named Buddy Roe. While respecting the protocol of trail rider, seldom were they anywhere except at the front of the pack.
