Our travels up Barley Creek took us through a scenic canyon with rock walls, hillsides, and juniper trees. After several creek crossings and about three miles, we came to a big meadow going off to the left. The trail divided, and we took the left-hand route, but the trail soon disappeared.
Returning to the junction, we rode up the right-hand trail and shortly came to a junction, where one trail went east and connected with the Cottonwood Trail. This could provide a loop when the Cottonwood Trail is repaired. Continuing straight ahead (or left at the Cottonwood junction), we rode across the stream several times, past beaver ponds, and arrived at a shady place among cottonwood trees for lunch.
Following our lunch break, we rode further up the valley, then climbed in earnest up several switchbacks, gaining quick elevation. After the switchbacks, the horses did one last pull and came out on top of the Table Mountain Plateau.
At 9,000 feet in elevation, we were treated to a smorgasbord of visual delights. What a great moment to share with our equine partners! Without them, we wouldn't have experienced this.
From our vantage point, we could look directly across the valley to the Alta Toquima Wilderness Area and the nearly 12,000-foot peaks of Mount Jefferson. Near the top of Mount Jefferson is the highest ghost town in North America. And just discovered in 1978 are the remains of a 7,000-year-old Indian village, where you can still find circular and linear rock alignments, and the remains of dwellings. The access to this area is extremely rugged and not recommended for horses.
Closer to where we were standing at the moment were remains of another historic Indian structure known as the Serpentine Wall. This structure is a network of low-lying stone walls that date to 50 BC. Archeologists believe the walls functioned as a prehistoric drive system for trapping sage grouse.
Charlene and I thought we were within one or two miles of this structure. However, our search for it was cut short by ominous storm clouds gathering in the distance. Even Buddy pricked up his ears at the wisp of cooler air. You don't want to be at 9,000 feet on an exposed plateau in a lightning storm!
Buddy and Scout turned tails and began a quick descent down the switchbacks into Barley Creek Canyon. We found a sheltered place to wait out the lightning storm. The sky darkened while lightning struck on both sides of our canyon. As the storm passed, we could hear the thunder worrying around and muttering to itself. After this we made safe passage back to camp.
Mustang Outfitters
If you're a little concerned about the adventure of trail riding in remote country with possible trail difficulties, Mustang Outfitters (775/964-2145; www.mustangout fitters.net) could be the way to go. Or, if you want to be wild and ride the length of these mountains on a custom pack trip, Mustang Outfitters is really the way to go!
Mustang Outfitters is located out of Round Mountain between Austin and Tonopah. It specializes in traditional horse pack-in trips. You decide how long the trip will be, then it provides everything you need except your personal gear.
Mustang Outfitters also goes the extra mile in doing something that most outfitters frown on: It allows you to bring your own horse or mule. Most of the riding is between 7,000 and 10,000 feet, so if you do bring your own mount, make sure he's mountain savvy, acclimated and in top physical condition.
One popular trip is the Toiyabe Crest Trail, constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. It's not for the faint of heart; the outfitters only take riders with riding experience.
The trip traverses some of the highest elevations in the region with panoramic views. It's a progressive pack trip, meaning it's packed and moved every day. Because of this, you'll pack light and use dome-type tents. High vantage points offer unobstructed views of distant mountains and the valleys below. You might spot elk, bighorn sheep, mule deer, and even wild mustangs. In fact, Mustang Outfitters offers mostly native Nevada mustangs as riding mounts.
End of the Trail
After working our way through the central Nevada mountain ranges, we emerged into the warm deserts around the town of Tonopah. We stopped in town to stock up on supplies and plan the next segment of summer fun for the boys (our horses) and us.
Sometimes, we wonder if the boys tire of hauling us around while we check out new places. But we always see excitement in their faces, feel their quick pace as they head out on a new trail, and sense their never-ending curiosity about what lies over the next hill. TTR
