Here's the place trail-riding dreams are made of: miles of meandering trails, roaming bison, and endless horizons bordered by mountains splashed with evergreens and deciduous trees. All of this can be yours to enjoy while riding in South Dakota's Custer State Park.
Custer State Park is located in the Black Hills of South Dakota. It was named after George A. Custer, who, in 1874, led a scientific army expedition into the Black Hills. Two years later, he and his men were defeated in the battle at Little Big Horn, also known as Custer's Last Stand.
In 1913, the South Dakota Legislature created a state game reserve in the southern Black Hills. This reserve became Custer State Park in 1919. Today, the land remains largely unchanged, ready to be explored.
Just three miles off highway 87 and centrally located in the 73,000-acre park lies French Creek Horse Camp. This is the only horse camp in Custer State Park and is one of the prettiest horse camps you can find.
The camp is snuggled in a grassy valley and freckled with stately pines. The soft green campground is hemmed by forested ridges and split by a bubbling brook on the east side. Evening entertainment often includes visits from elk and bison.
We made French Creek our base camp for several days while exploring the wonders of Custer State Park. There are 26 reserved sites along with two first-come, first-serve sites. Most sites are shaded. Rest-rooms are clean, and have flush toilets and showers. Each site has a corresponding corral. Our Missouri Fox Trotter geldings, Buddy and Scout, enjoyed eating, rolling, and relaxing in their temporary digs.
Endless Riding
One enticement of Custer State Park is that you can ride almost everywhere: cross-country or on trails. Only a few areas don't allow riding, and these are clearly marked.
Four trails emerge from French Creek Horse Camp, marked with posts and diamonds. (Color-coded horse-trail maps and detailed topographic maps are available at the Peter Norbeck and Wildlife Station Visitor Centers.)
The Centennial Trail, marked red on the horse-trails map, passes through the camp and connects to other trails. This trail was dedicated in 1989, the 100th anniversary of South Dakota statehood. It's 111 miles long; 22 of these miles pass through Custer State Park.
We used the Centennial Trail to access other trails and form loops. By going north, you run into French Creek Gorge. If you ride south, you'll connect with Big Tree, Robber's Roost, Parker Canyon, Racetrack Butte, and other trails.
Our first ride out took us through the French Creek Natural Area. This area was established to protect abundant natural resources while providing visitors the opportunity to experience the untouched beauty of French Creek Gorge.
Custer made French Creek famous during the summer of 1874. It was in this creek that the Custer Expedition discovered gold, creating an avalanche of gold seekers into the Black Hills.
At the entrance to the natural area, a sign is posted to warn visitors of rugged terrain, lack of trail markings, numerous creek crossings, rattlesnakes, and poison ivy.
My horse, Buddy, noted with trepidation the numerous stream crossings. Charlene, who's extremely allergic to poison ivy, shuddered. However, we dutifully rode on.
Trees, moss, and plants clung precariously to colorful canyon walls. Butterflies danced from one wildflower to the next. Hawks sailed on air currents and an occasional trout surfaced for an unsuspecting mayfly.
