Only as Good as Its Tree
If you have an old saddle you want to use again-or if you're looking at a used saddle to buy-you need to be sure that the tree has not been damaged. A broken saddle tree isn't common, but it happens. And if it happened to that saddle, you don't want it. Here's how to check.
Before you put the saddle on your horse's back, put it on the ground and step on it. Press your foot down gently, but firmly, on the seat. Then roll the saddle on its side and push your foot down firmly on the side of the seat. Do it on the other side, too. As you press down, listen for any little popping or clicking noises because that is usually a sign of a broken or damaged tree.
Another way to check for a damaged tree is to put the front of the saddle against your thigh and slowly but firmly pull the cantle toward you. If the tree is broken, you'll usually hear those telltale popping or clicking sounds. Turn the saddle around and pull from the fork, too. Silence is golden.
But the absence of a tree is another matter.
The tree of a western saddle is fairly rigid and contributes to its weight. Some riders feel a tree restricts a horse's natural movement and interferes with their feel of the horse. Today's treeless saddles grew out of the needs of endurance riders, where every ounce counts. However, treeless saddles are also becoming popular with some non-competitive trail riders.
Whether treeless is just a fad or will take root remains to be seen. But if you're interested in going this route, try one out before you buy one. Since the bars of a saddle's tree distribute the rider's weight along the length of the horse's back, a treeless saddle might not be the way to go for every rider.
And what about those Quarter Horse bars? "Standard," "full" and "semi" Quarter Horse bars describe the angle and spread of the bars of the tree in a western saddle. They relate to how wide the horse's back is.
While many horses used to be fine with the standard Quarter Horse bars, today many need either semi- or full Quarter Horse bars. Most mutton-withered horses need the "full" bars, which are seven inches wide across the bottom of the gullet. The "semi" Quarter Horse bars are usually a better fit for horses with high withers and narrower shoulders.
Style Follows Function
Years ago many trail riders bought barrel racing saddles because the wider, more upright fork and high cantle offered a more secure seat. Today many trail saddles are being made with higher cantles and forks. A high cantle not only helps in steep terrain, but gives some support to your back as well.
Some older riders prefer the lower cantles with the Cheyenne roll seen on show and roping saddles because it's easier to get your leg up and over one. Banging a shin into a high, pointed cantle can be painful.
Other innovations that can make long Sunday trail rides more comfortable and less tiring are wide, cushioned stirrups that give you a steadier base and absorb shock. There are also special swivel attachments for stirrups that make keeping them in the right position much easier on your knees. (See "Stirrups: A Buyer's Guide" in the October 2004 issue of Perfect Horse.)
$how Saddles
In the show ring things are different-and mostly the same. Show saddles haven't changed much since the big switch from dark oil to light oil in the 1980s. Silver trim is still in-the more the better. There are little fashion changes each year, but serious innovations are few.
One, the cutaway skirts under the fenders of the top-of-the-line show saddles by Dale Chavez, have won the attention of serious competitors. This design allows for a close contact feel on an otherwise large, western show saddle.
Elaborate show saddles can set you back thousands of dollars, and they require extra care to keep them looking showroom new at every show. You need special cleaners that won't darken the preferred light oil leather, polishing creams for the silver, brushes to keep the rough-out seat from getting shiny, and protective bags to keep the saddle out of the sun when it's not in use. Sun and heat can darken a treasured light oil finish.
If your old saddle fits you and your new horse, and it's still in good shape and not too heavy for you to hoist up onto him, there's no reason to replace it. But if you plan to start showing in anything other than local open shows, or to return to the breed show ring after many years to compete in the popular amateur and novice classes of today, you probably need a new saddle.
While some minor fads might come and go, the basic show saddle hasn't changed much in the last 20 years: a light oil saddle with double skirts, tooled leather, leather-covered stirrups, and as much silver as you can afford. Seats are suede, the forks are smooth, and the cantles are low.
Whether you want to continue a tradition and trail ride in your father's old western saddle or buy a new saddle for the show circuit, take the time to check and be sure the saddle you select is a pleasure for your horse.
